Sydneykid

Would you care to do the mathematics on that? ie; take the oxygen content for Optimax, compare it to the oxygen content for Optimax Extreme. Plus take the SG of Optimax, compare it to the SG for Optimax Extreme. Then extrapolate that calculation to the A/F ratio change. cheers

Ouch, bad luck. What was the cause of the blockage? cheers PS; great a real life 2530 versus GTRS comparo.

I enjoy this forum more than any other, I pick up all sorts of tips and I am happy that I can hand out a few of my own. But the thing that peees me off is people who think they are the FIRST person with a Skyline to have this problem or to find something right or something wrong. There are so many smart people on SAU that there is a 99.99999% chance that someone will have encountered the problem, found a solution and published it. Anyone who wants to know something should do a proper search first, rather than jump in and start a brand new thread on something that has been done to death. The search may well indicate that resurrecting the old thread is the best way, that gives a thread life and makes it an even more valuable source of information. Starting a new thread means the experienced guys may well pass it over (been there done that), and the only people who respond are new (relatively) inexperienced guys that perpetuate the errors. This thread is a prime example of that, there would be 1,000+ people on this forum who know that upgrading Neo injectors is only accomplished by purchasing aftermarket (relatively expensive) injectors. Back to the subject at hand………… Attempting to increase fuel flow by increasing fuel pressure is not all that straight forward. Firstly the laws of fluid dynamics are such that a 10% increase in fuel pressure does not result in a 10% increase in fuel flow. It is much less than that, more like a 35% increase in fuel pressure for a 10% increase in flow. This puts a lot of strain on the fuel pump, which needs to be specified for the base pressure plus boost ie; Bosch fuel pumps are rated at 73.5 psi, so you can run 50 psi fuel pressure and still have 23.5 psi left for boost. Standard fuel pressure is 36-38 psi, so a 35% increase is 50 psi. Based on past experiences that is enough to increase the flow from 370 cc’s to around 400 cc’s (400 bhp or around 235 rwkw). The second problem is the fuel hoses and clamps, what is a good solution for 36-38 psi may well be overpowered by 50 psi. Particularly as age and wear affect the rubber and clamps. My usual suggestion would be to replace all of the fuel hoses under pressure with nice new hose and upgrade the clamps. I would go so far as to suggest 2 clamps per joint. Under bonnet fuel fires are not pretty. Hope that helps Cheers PS; as search would have found all of that info out as well.

Can I have just one for an R33GTST exhaust camshaft, can't use 2 on them. cheers

Nope and the suspesnion is pretty good too. Don't forget the master cylinder and the hoses. Just sticking used callipers on is not my idea of a good move. I would look at rebuilding the callipers and master cylinder before I put them on. They may well be in worse condition than what you take off. Just changing the fronts only adds a complication, that being the master cylinder front/rear biasing will be wrong. That means differential bore sizes to fix, not a cheap conversion as it requires some braking system expertise (not your local workshop). Last time I bough Nissan 4 spot fronts and 2 spot rears they cost $800 with used standard rotors, because the people selling them wouldn't separate. So I ended up with a set of rotors that I didn't need plus the $50 freight (they are heavy) to get them here. The prices are high because the Silvia guys all want to do the 5 stud + brake upgrade. Their strong demand pushes the prices up. I sold the standard rotors for $150 to get some money back. Then I had to get the callipers serviced, that was $400 and new DBA slotted rotors where $700. Then I had to buy pads, decent pads, they were $450 for the set (front and rear). The standard brake hoses didn't fit, although they were in OK condition. So I made up a set of braided lines, they would have cost $320 trade price. Fortunately the master cylinder was the right size and I already had it rebuilt for $180. Add it up; 800 + 50 - 150 + 400 + 700 + 450 + 320 + 180 = $2,750. Plus the labour to remove and replace, I reckon no change from $3K. Did it improve the braking, hell yes, but I reckon I could have achieved almost the same improvement with just rotors and pads for around 1/3 the cost. This is why I have gone that way with the Stagea. cheers

First, let me say I am sorry to see an RB in that condition, hope the rebuild works out well. You can look for all sorts of reasons, the one that sticks out for me is that it's #6. The one that suffers from detonation first, the one that suffers from oil starvation first, the one that runs the leanest etc. All that makes me lean towards big end bearing failure caused by eithe detonation or oil starvation. For detonation, check the piston top. For oil starvation, look at the other bearings and the crank, there should be some signs. I guess it's because I see blown up race engines all the time. But compared to the original build price, it's not a high cost repair by the look of it. Weld up the block, new/used crank, one rod, one piston, new bearings, gaskets and seals. Around $5K should cover it easily. There may be hidden other damage, so be carefull when disassembling it. It is possible to cause more damage if close attention isn't paid to the process. cheers

From yet ANOTHER HICAS thread................. I have marked up the HICAS schematic; The Blue dot is the power steering cooler The Red dots should be joined together, this bypasses the HICAS solenoids completely. No cutting of pipes required, around those locations you will find the steel pipework has clamped rubber hose sections, just remove the (short) hoses and substitute them with the new (longer) piece of joining hose. If you are not removing the rest of the HICAs system, then block off the (no longer used) hoses to keep the crap out. There will be power steeing fluid trapped in the hoses, so make sure the capping is liquid proof. cheers

If this thread seems a bit harsh, sorry I appologise in advance, but really............................. If you had done a search you would have found out that RB26DETT injectors are 444 cc's which is enough for 444 bhp. While doing that search you would have also found out that to convert bhp to kw you divide by 1.34 (ie 444 bhp / 1.34 = 331 kw). That same search would have told you that a 2wd R33/34 looses about 60 kw through the drive train (ie; 331 - 60 = 271 rwkw). A different search would have revealed that RB25DETNeo injectors are top feed but a completely different shape to RB26DETT top feed injectors. In fact that search would have revealed this picture which clearly shows the differences The injector on the left is top feed for an R34GTT RB25DET Neo The injector in the middle is side feed for an R33GTST RB25DET The injector on the right is top feed for an R32GTST RB20DET or R32 GTR RB26DETT. If you had taken 15 seconds to do a search you would have found out why people have to buy Nismo or other brand name injectors for their R34GTT. Perhaps they were smart enough to do a search before they spent money on something that won't fit. cheers PS; did I mention that you should have done search first, rather than start a brand new thread on a subject that has been covered hundreds of time.

This happens all the time, usually because the pump is mounted too high and has no extension of the pick up point towards the bottom of the tank. The best way is to duplicate the standard pump location and pick up point EXACTLY. Nissan obviously spent a lot of time researching the best pick up location for the fuel tank shape, best to copy what they have done. My local AutoOne, AutoPro, AutoBarn, Repco, SupaCheap etc has a pile of fuel fittings, hoses and adaptors. I just take the 2 pumps in there and mix and match bits until I get what I want. cheers

BAH HUMBUG! you guys obviously slow down too much for corners. In 18 months of Stagea driving I have always been able to activate the ABS at will. So the limit of retardation is the tyres, not the brakes. Good pads, slotted rotors and decent brake fluid is all mine needed. cheers

Try this thread; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85467 cheers

I don't want to turn this into an auto discussion, this threrad is not about gearboxes. This is a post I made in the Stagea Autogearbox thread, pop over and have a read there; I am far from an auto box expert, I leave that to the profesionals. The following assumes some level of knowledge of how an automativc geabox works. If you don't know, then this is the best thread I have seen for a while, please read it first; http://www.ukcar.com/features/tech/gearbox/AUTO/ The auto in a Stagea is made by Jatco, and is basically the same as Z32 and R33GTST (+ a 4wd transfer case bolted on the side) and several other larger 6 cylinder Nissans, 4wd's, utes, trucks etc. So parts and knowledge are not hard to find. If you need higher rpm for launch (so you have boost) then a high stall speed torque converter is the answer. You pick the stall rpm to suite the boost build characteristics of the turbo. The standard torque converter has around a 2,000 rpm stall speed, but as you increase the torque output from the engine the stall speed climbs a bit. At around 150 rwkw mine was at 2,250 rpm. Since you have the engine producing kinetic energy and the car going nowhere this energy has to be converted (Newtons Law, see, high school physics is sometimes usefull), in this case into heat. Think 60 or 70 of those 1 kw bar heaters, that's a lot of heat. That heat goes into the transmission fluid, hence the need for a big tranmission cooler. An example, if you have turbo that produce boost at 3,500 rpm then you get a 3,500 rpm stall conveter. Bingo, boost at launch. The problem is (you get nothing for nothing) it is always a 3,500 rpm stall torque converter, so the car won't move until the engine is doing pretty much 3,500 rpm. That's bad for economy, emmisions etc The Stagea auto uses a band for 2nd gear engagement, this can be upgraded with a stronger band (sometimes kevlar) which gives higher grip (to handle the extra torque) and tolerates more slip and heat. The 3rd and 4th gears are engaged by clutches (wet clutches, like the ATTESSA), these can also be upgraded to handle the extra torque. The bands and clutches are controlled by valves switching hydraulic pressure, so a "valve body" upgrade can be used to speed up the band/clutch engagement (sometimes called a "quick shift kit"). This lessens the wear on the bands/clutches and makes the gear change quicker/sharper. As usual you get nothing for nothing, this means slightly harsher gearchanges, not as seamless, less smoooooth. Good oil temperature control is necessary for tight gearchanges, hence the need for a big transmission cooler. How much does it cost? Well the full upgrade (torque converter, bands, clutches and valve body) seems to be around $3,500 (excluding gearbox R&R). The first step is a big tranmission cooler (~$200), then a valve body upgrade (~$300), then its inside the gearbox time. How much power will it handle? Damn tuff to answer as the weight of the car and its traction (Stagea = 4wd and 1700 kgs) has some bearing. It will most certainly handle as much as the standard engine internals are capable of supporting (ie; ~300 rwkw). That's about the limit of my research so far, hope it was of some help. MV Automatics in Adelaide seem to be the Skyline auto experts. There was a valve body exchange arranged on the Group Buy section a while ago with them. cheers

My first guess would be an air leak under boost, check all the fittings, hoses and clamps and the intercooler itself. cheers

The numbers tell the story............. 700 cc's X 6 = 4.2 litres per minute = 252 litres per hour At 13.8 volts a single 044 will move 330 litres per hour at 73.5 PSI So it will support 6 X 900 cc injectors at 2.4 bar boost with standard fuel pressure (36-38 psi) So using 2 X 044's would lead to excessive fuel flow, even at 100% injector duty cycle. As BB quite rightly points out, that means hot fuel going around and around for no good reason. cheers

Any Garrett agent. cheers

PM sent yesterday cheers

1. The only description I could see was "to3/to4 (to4e)", I have no idea how you could tell it was "the same turbo model" as yours. It might be plain bearing for a start. 2. You didn't modify anything? Bought not one single extra part? You just got a turbo and it went straight on? No new gaskets? Or broken nuts? Stripped studs? LOcking tabs? Wastegate actuator lined up perfectly? And you did the swap over on a Sunday never having done a turbo change before? 3. You're not kidding, I'd call it a miracle. Call me a pessimist if you like, but I have NEVER EVER seen it happen and I have been working on Nissans for 30+ years. cheers

My suggestion is to do a leak dow test to eliminate rings, pistons and valves as the cause. In the old RB20DET we were running 225rwkw (302 rwhp) at 19 psi on standard coils and copper NGK's at 0.8mm. So you are not looking at anything extraordinary. cheers

The problem is (at 500 bhp) you have chosen a power output target that is 50 bhp more than almost everything in the RB25 will handle. So a 750 bhp target wouldn't cost anymore, all the same stuff would have to be upgraded. Achieving 450 bhp on $10k is just about possible, if you do some of the work yourself and avoid retail prices. But you will need to add to that some suspension and wheel/tyre upgrades to make use of that power. Otherwise it will be a waste of time and money as the power will be unuseable. cheers

There are a few sets of Bilsteins left so it not too late ot join in on the Group Buy. Just PM me if you have any questions, or post them here. cheers

What oil restrictors are you talking about? The one between the block and the head? The N1 blocks we have received did not come fitted with oil restrictors, you have to fit them. Or the restrictor in each tubo oil inlet? The new R34 N1 ball bearing turbos we have received did not come fitted with oil feed restrictors, you have to fit them. Used ones did. cheers

A few tips, in no particular order; 1. There are solid and hollow bars, so the diameter itself is meaningless. 2. You can't use a 4wd front stabiliser bar on a 2wd. The subframe is in a different location (relative to the chassis) and is a different shape to accommodate the front drive shafts and diff. 3. You can use a 4wd rear stabiliser bar on a 2wd. The rear subframe is basically the same. 4. We use a Whiteline 27mm solid, adjustable front bar on the R32GTST race car, with 350lbs per inch front springs. If you are using higher rate springs (up to 450 lbs per inch) then a 24mm bar should do the job. If your front spring rates are higher than 450 lbs then you may well find you have to lower the spring rate to make the bar adjustablity effective for tuning. 5. We use a Whiteline 24mm solid, adjustable rear stabiliser bar on the R32GTST race car, with 200lbs per inch rear springs. If you are using higher rate springs (up to 300 lbs per inch) then a 22mm bar should do the job. If your rear spring rates are higher than 300 lbs then you may well find you have to lower the spring rate to make the bar adjustablity effective for tuning. In the wet we run the 22mm rear bar with the 200 lbs per inch springs. If you decide that you want to go with Whiteline stabiliser bars, I can arrange it with them, they ship all over the world, every week. Hope that helps cheers PS; we have used basically that same set up on an R33GTST, the weight difference has a very minimal effect.

I have found that it always pays to check the ignition timing with a timing light, then you KNOW everyhting is back where it should be, well at least on the exhaust side anyway. cheers

Sorry Lee, I am not in Perth so I can't help on the day. But a word of warning before you start, it might help save you from a lot of aggravation. I have NEVER EVER seen a replacement turbo (other than a high flow of the standard turbo) bolt up without making stuff. modifying parts, buying extra/different nuts and bolts or water and oil fittings. It is not that simple, I guarantee that you will need to buy stuff or have it made or modified and you won't be able to do that on a Sunday. What I done have that works (sometimes) is to take off the standard turbo on a Friday night and compare it closely with the turbo you want to put on. Then go out first thing on Saturday morning and buy the parts that you need. Do your homework first, make sure the place you are going to buy the stuff from has stock and is open on Saturday mornings. Better still go to your local turbo shop on the Monday (gives them time to get in parts) before the weekend you are going to do the work, armed with the new turbo and ask them what you will need to fit it in place of the standard turbo. If they know what they are doing there is a good chance you will get 99% of what you need. Still do the Friday comparison though and make sure they are open on Saturday morning for the other 1%. Hope that helps Cheers