Sydneykid

There is a Group Buy open at the moment, I think it answer most of your questions. The link follows; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85467 If you have any further questions, please just PM me or post it up here if you want. cheers :

1. In order for the FCon V Pro to "self tune" it would need a wide and fast lambda sensor and extensive interpretation hardware and software. I have not seen any evidence of that. 2. If you have a stand alone A/F metre there is no reason why you couldn't tune any (tunable) ECU on the road cheers

To the above I would add, have the oil checked for metalic content, bearing material, coolant (leaking head gasket) or fuel (leaking injector) etc. cheers

As per the PM, start the sucker and get on with it. I want to know how it goes. cheers

We have one of GTRGeoff's HICAS replacement bars for the project R33GTST. I hope to have timt to fit it this week. I will weigh what we take off and post it up. cheers

There is a lot of experience in Japanese drift circles with macpherson strut front suspension cars, courtesy of the huge number of AE86's and S13/14/15's over the years. Understandably the drift teams feel more comfortable tuning a strut front suspension. The reality is I can duplicate the dynamic camber change angles of an S13/14/15 whilst still retaining the R232/33/34 double wishbone suspension. I can also duplicate the roll centres and bump steer characteristics. Consequently the handling ("slide" if you prefer) would be the same, given equal other dynamics, mostly C of G and weight. But this is not simple to do, it takes some time to engineer and fabricate the necessary components. My guess is they took the easy way out, used mostly off the shelf S13/14/15 parts, maybe just to test the theory. If it works, they may well revert back to double wishbone with duplicate dynamic change angles engineered in. cheers

No problems, ready when you are. cheers

-2.47 RL -2.09 RR -2.3 FL -1.44 FR Raising it to 350 mm should remove some of the static negative camber. The problem you may still have is the differential side to side. 1. The 2.47 on the left rear and 2.09 on the right rear, will decrease but you may still have the 0.38 diference side to side. That's almost tolerable 1. The 2.30 on the left front and 1.44 on the right front, will decrease but you may still have the 0.86 diference side to side. That's a lot. Some people use more camber on the left to counteract the drift to the left caused by the slope into the gutter of the road's surface. This has the downside of increasing tyre wear on the LHS front. A superior answer is to have more caster on the left front, works just as well exept it has no downside. Since it has less camber on the right both front and rear, I suspect a height difference side to side. Have you checked that? Cheers

The R32's loose 20 kgs as their HICAS system is full hydrualic with heavy stainless steel solenoids and hoses and much larger hydraulic rear steering rack. cheers

Nope, they are still building the chassis. There will be two more running locally before that one. cheers

Common Roy, it's an RB20DET; Bottom end = 2,500 to 4,250 rpm Mid range = 4,250 to 6,250 rpm Top end = 6,250 to 8,250 rpm Under 2,750 rpm is not bottom end, it's IDLING RPM. :lol: Cheers PS; if it was an RB31DET then; Bottom end = 1,500 to 3,000 rpm Mid range = 3,000 to 5,500 rpm Top end = 5,500 to 7,500 rpm

Hi DBO, a GT25R is not a bg turbo, you should be seeing boost build around 2,750 rpm and full boost by 3,500 rpm in 3rd gear. There are few things that concern me in your list of upgrades; A. "Re-mapped ECU", how good is the tune? Got any dyno graphs? We need RWKW, torque, boost and A/F ratios. If you don't have them, go to the next club dyno day, pay $$50 or so and get them. Post them up, there are plenty of guys on here who can read a dyno graph and give suggestions. B. "Custom FMIC with alloy piping", refer to #3 below. C. "Possibly HKS dump pipe", that doesn't fill me with confidence, is it split or combined dump? What about the engine pipe? What to do; 1. More fuel is not going to do anything for boost build, in fact if is already running rich it will just make it worse. 2. If it will take it, my first suggestion would be more ignition advance 3. Check the restrictions in the inlet system, compare the boost at the compressor outlet with the boost at the plenum. 4. Try dropping the exhaust just before the cat on the dyno and see what difference it makes (one 10 second power run will reveal a lot). 5. Disconnect the vacuum feed to the turbo and compare the boost build. That will tell you whether the wastegate and boost controller are doing the job of keeping the wastegate closed until the target boost is reached. Be carefull, you have no boost control when doing this test. It is a boost build test to the target boost, stop when the target boost is reached. 6. Once you have the turbo building boost as it should, then start thinking about other items. Find the problem first and fix that, if you keep throwing random parts at it you will just muddy up the water. Hope that helps Cheers

We have 3 cars insured with Shanons, soon to be 4. cheers

The problem I always find with chipped ECU's is they cost almost as much to update as when they were installed in the first place. That's not so bad if you are going to do all your mods at once and not drive the car until it is tuned. But I never seem to be able to do that, I always end up doing more mods or wanting to try something. A chipped ECU would be a real pain in the ass for me. I only put the IEBC, DFA and SITC in the glovebox because I don't use the glovebox. The street directory goes in the drivers door pocket, the first aid kit goes in the passengers side door pocket and the CD's go in the pocket on the rear of the passengers seat. The incidentals go in the console. If I wanted to use the glovebox, I would have put them under the passengers seat. I find this immediate leap of logic from "engine is missing" to "coil packs must be stuffed" most frustating. I have a 420+ rwkw RB31DET running on stock standard, 170,000 k's old, 1990 R32GTST coils packs. I had a 265 rwkw R34GTT, with standard coil packs. The R33GTST that has Alex's Power FC in it has standard coill packs. The R32GTR with the RB30 in it has been running 475 bhp for 6 years on its standard 1989 coil packs. Needless to say the Stagea has standard coil packs in it. My experience has been that over 95% of engine missing problems has NOTHING to do with coil packs. It is usually ECU R&R mapping, sometimes badly gapped plugs and/or incorrect heat range plugs, very occasionaly it's extemely poor tuning (mega rich). Changing coil packs is a last resort, only to be used when all other methods have failed, not the first port of call. cheers

The first thing to do is to measure the height, centre of wheel to guard on all 4 corners. It is is lower than 350 mm front and 340 mm rear, then raise it up and see how the ride is then. If it is still poor, then we need to work out the spring rates, this thread shows you how to do the measurements. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=79157 Post them up and I will work out the sping rates for you. cheers

Konis are good shocks, I use them on lots of cars. But Konis and Skylines are not a good match. Do a search for details. cheers

:lol: :lol: :lol: Yep, it's so bad that the R32GTR ruled the Group A circuit racing worldwide so much so that they changed the rules. cheers

Sorry, not an easy question to answer, there seems to be a few different standard spring rates in R34GTR's. I have seen three different rates, standard R34GTR, V Spec and N1 (maybe NUR spec), there may be others. The lightest was 165 lbs (3kg/m) per inch and the heaviest was 205 lbs per inch (3.7 kg/mm). cheers

BETTER? Not if it's used on the road regularly Much more NVH Higher likelihood of cracking the front subframe due to lack of compliance Sphericals wear out rapidly as they have no dust/dirt/water protection Good quality spericals are costly to replace Breakage is not uncommon Illegal in most states Maybe for a track car only, even then they are illegal for most classes of circuit racing. cheers

Hi, is that front or rear height and camber? If it is front, then the front camber kit will bring it baack to the recommended setting. If it is rear, then you will need 2 camber kits to bring it back to the recommended setting. cheers PS; 330 mm is really too low for good handling and ride comfort, around 350 mm is the lowest I would recommend.

Hi, assuming you can use your standard tops, bump stops and bump rubbers and you don't need a front braces (it should already have one), prices as follows; Front springs $144 Rear springs $144 Front Bilstein shocks $486 Rear Bilstein shocks $486 Rear adjustable stabiliser bar $219 Front adjustable stabiliser bar $219 Front camber kit $277 Front caster kit $115 Rear camber kit $118 Rear subframe alignment kit $110 Zero freight (order is over $500) Sub total $2,318 Less 5% extra discount (order is over $1K) $116 Total $2,202 Note; that is with adjustable stabiliser bars, let me know if you want fixed rate bars and I will amend the price accordingly. Cheers

Hi Waldo, that is most unusual. Snapping a long, straight 6 camshaft is remarkably easy, I have seen quite few. But it usually happens during, or very soon after, installation, not 6,000 k's later. It will be interesting to se if it is twist break or a straight side load crack. An inspection of the surrounding parts may reveal something else. I will be very interested in what you find out. cheers PS; you where very lucky that the valves were closed, not open, when the cam broke, otherwise bent valves would be the result.

165 kw engine = 110 rwkw cheers:)

And right there (APRIL) is a prime example of why so many people go for the GCG Ball Bearing high flow option. Forget 2 months, more like 2 days. cheers PS; not picking on HypeR33, he has a realistic time frame.

It's a bustard of a job (= costly), and only about 2 in 10 RB30 blocks are suitable. Ceramic coat the piston crowns and oil retention coat the skirts, just as effective. cheers