Sydneykid

As Roy suggested, I see a lot of Skylines with the entire exhaust hanging off the turbo and the rear muffler. You really need to make sure there is a good solid mount at the gearbox bell housing and flexible mounts to the gearbox subframe and to the rear subframe. If it has those and they are in good condition, then some reinforcement of the exhaust manifold may be required. cheers

I am not sure that I understand the question. All springs should be trapped at full droop, it's a legal requirement for a road car. We even keep the springs trapped on the race cars,. They do bounce off the ripple strips and get a bit of air, so you don't want the springs falling out of the seats. We use tender/helper springs if necessary to achieve this. The car is help up by the springs, in the case of coil springs the distance between the chassis and the lower spring seat determines the height. Raise the lower spring seat up and you raise the chassis. This increases the preload on the spring, but it doesn't change it's rate ie; if its a 200 lbs per inch spring, it takes 200 lbs to compress it 1 inch. It takes another 200 lbs to compress it another inch. Heavy cars with low spring rates (Merc's) have LOTS and LOTS of preload. But the spring rate is still soft. Hope that answered the question. cheers

Yes Duncan Cheers

Get a decent aftermarket boost gauge, the standard map sensor is engine bay temp sensitive. cheers

Sorry for the delay in responding, I have been away from my enginering computer for a week. The first 2006 F3 round at Wakefield last weekend kept me busy. That's a 2.5" progressive spring. The softest rate is ~225 lbs per inch and the highest rate (allowing for the 5 coils that are close together) is ~525 lbs per inch. Usually the soft rate is used only to ensure the spring is trapped at full droop. As soon as the weight of the car is applied, the close together coils sit on top of on another and you end up with the high rate all the time. For a more accurate measurement you will have to remove the spring and measure the gaps between the coils. I then work out exactly the variable rates as the spring loads up. cheers

I challenge you to fit any aftermarket ECU and not spend heaps more than a Power FC. Takes less than 5 minutes to fit and drive the car away. That's a $100 saved right there. All the base mapping is done, cold start and run, hot start, power steering and a/c compensation. There's $400 saved. If you have a mildly upgraded engine it can be tuned in less than 30 minutes. No MAP sensor driven ECU can get anywhere near that. There's another $300 saved. Many tests have proved the PFC closed loop running to be the closest you will find to the standard ECU, that means savings at the bowser every time you fill up. Shall I get into configurable dash board warnings for AFM voltage, injector duty and (most importantly) knock. Nope they're pretty obvious advantages. There is simply no better method for determining the load on an engine than measuring the airflow into it via an AFM. A MAP sensor driven ECU guesses how much air is going into the engine by multiplying the rpm. It is never as accurate. The Power FC is #1 because it is the best all up value ECU for mildly upgraded Skylines, it's that simple. cheers

There are 3 answers, all previously posted; RB26 cylinder head= 2 oil feed galleries between the block and the head We block one off, same as RB26's are standard We use a 1.5 mm restrictor in the other Plenty of oil flow to the camshaft bearings, not too much oil slopping around in the head, getting chucked into the catch can and leaving the sump in short supply. RB25 with VVT= 2 oil feed galleries between the block and the head Plus 1 feed to the VVT actuator We block one off, same as RB26's are standard We use a 1.5 mm restrictor in the other Plus leave the VVT oil feed as per standard Plenty of oil flow to the camshaft bearings and VVT actuator but not too much oil slopping around in the head, getting chucked into the catch can and leaving the sump in short supply. RB25 without VVT= 2 oil feed galleries between the block and the head Plus 1 feed to the VVT actuator We block one off, same as RB26's are standard We use a 2.0 mm restrictor in the other Plus block off the VVT oil feed Plenty of oil flow to the camshaft bearings, no VVT actuator. Not too much oil slopping around in the head, getting chucked into the catch can and leaving the sump in short supply. Hope that was of some help cheers

I am sure you meant cola, didn't you? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ No heat shielding around the POD No visible ambient air feed 30 degrees Ambient Air Temperature 49 degrees Inlet Air Temperature I’ll stick by my previous post; cheers

Standard thermostat opens at 76 degrees. cheers

The problem is the oil from the turbo is rather frothy, it is whipped by the ball bearings and the high revs (<200,000 rpm). So feeding un-aerated oil from the cylinder head return into an already aerated mix is not something I would recommend. The flow would be interrupted and the return would not function as well as it needs to. The ball bearing turbo has restricted oil feed going to it, however notice how large the oil return is. That is to allow for the aerated oil, which has much greater volume than the oil on its own. That’s why we always have the external oil return from the cylinder head going into the top of the LHS sump wing. Never T’d into the turbo oil return. I don’t ever use plain bearing turbos, so I don’t know whether they would be any different. cheers

What is it exactly that you want to know? Let me try a few guesses............... Was there an RB30 used in Patrols? Yes Is it the same as RB30 used in Commondoors and and Skylines? Yes Does it have oil squirters? No Is it a 4wd block? No Are they cheaper than Commondoor RB30? No Are there more of them than Commodoor RB30? No Are they rare? Yes Would I bother searching out for one? No Hopefully one of those answered your question. Cheers

When I chose the R32GTST for Improved Production I looked at Silvias and found very little weight difference. Without any drastic weight reduction, mine is at 1,220 kgs (plus driver) down from 1,260 kgs when it was standard. That's not a lot heavier than a similarly trimmed 200SX S14, with adequate brakes, wheels and tyres. I figured the better front suspension design and superior standard brakes were a good starting point, plus the 6 cylinder engine upgrades were endless in their possibilities. All we have to do is get rid of the damn turbo inlet restrictors and we will be in with a chance. cheers

Hi Michael, is this soft-hard stuff spring rates? Stabiliser bars rates? Shock damper rates? Rebound or Bump? Each has its own purpose and effect. And they depend on the type of tyre you are using. An R33 GTST weight balance is around 60% front 40% rear. The rule of thumb rear spring rate I use to achieve traction for road work is ~180-200 lbs per inch. So to keep the balance you would want ~300 lbs in the front. But the CoG of the front is lower than the rear so you can run a slightly lower front spring rate, around 250-275 lbs seems to work for me. That gives sufficient compliance for riding the bumps, ripples and pot holes. To control the roll you will need a good upgrade in the stabiliser bars, particularly the rear (remember that higher CoG). I have found the 24mm front and 22 mm rear solid stabiliser bar upgrade to be the most suited. Adjustables make it easy to tune the balance for driver preference. That's a fairly big increase in spring and bar rates over standard, so you will want a decent shock with a large window of damping control. It will also need to good fluid temperature controlled as long public road sections work the fluid pretty hard and it can easily boil if there is insufficient piston area and oil flow. Regardless of what you do to the above items, it all turns to shyte if the tyres aren't in full contact with the road. So camber and caster settings are vital. Very dependant on the type of tyre you are using of course. Around 6-7 degrees of positive caster on the front with 2.5 degrees of negative camber is an OK place to start. Around 1.0 to 1.5 degrees negative on the rear, as you don't want to diminish the straight line traction. Speaking of traction, a rear subframe alignment kit is a must, and remove the HICAS it is not your friend. . If you want more detail I suggest you do a search The following link is to the Group Buy road suspension kit that pretty much would do the job, only a few small changes in alignment from the normal road setting would be required. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85467 cheers

Don't know Dunc, none of our Skylines have ABS. The Stagea does though, I will have to have a look at it, it's due for a fluid change anyway. cheers

My guess is it needs some serious suspension work, like all front wheel drive drag cars it will benefit a lot from a decent set up. What spring rates are you running? Shocks? Camber? Toe? Personally I wouldn't be worried about more power until you can use the power that you currently have. cheers

Stand back its the CAMBER CHANGE EXPRESS

What about a $20K R32GTST? cheers

Averages for the last 2 years; Sydney, peak hour traffic = 14.5 L/100K Sydney, non peak hour traffic = 13.0 L/100K Highway, cruising at 110 kph = 11.0 L/100K I check the economy on each tank fill and I have tried every brand of 98 ron fuel, makes no difference. Gunna try some 100 ron next week. cheers

There will most definitely be a colour difference. The theory of bleeding is to start at the furthest calliper from the master cylinder. ie; the rear left. But I have never seen any real world difference. cheers

ABS is driven by hydraulics. At the bottom of he ABS unit there is an electric (12 volt) motor that drives the hydraulic pump that makes the ABS work. No motor = no pumping = no ABS working. My experience has been that it is cheaper (when labour is included) to buy a complete ABS unit. Check around the import wreckers for one and compare prices, they vary a lot. cheers

Hinges are the same, just the bonnet lock and its support bracket. Plus you will need a grill, other wise there is just a big hole. cheers

I have the rev limiter set for 8,250 rpm vai the PFC. the standard tacho shows 8,500 rpm, they are a bit optimistic. cheers

Depends on how good you are, usually a bit more than 500 ml and less than 1L cheers

My suggestion would be the Bilsteins on the Group Buy http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85591 cheers

Castrol Response Super Dot 4 (about $10 a litre) Castrol Response Dot 4 ($less) cheers