Sydneykid

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Try "Sydneykid" and "+Bathurst+mineral" cheers

Apples and oranges................... Last time one of the team race cars was at Wakefield the fastest lap was a 55.6. But that's a real race car, not a converted road car. cheers

Nope, it was a sad R33GTST, but it's getting better everyday. Daily driver, with all round motorsport capability. Not full on race like the R32GTST Similar to the R34GTT, but with less $investment. cheers

If you are maintaining sustained high rpm for long periods (such that it affects the oil return) then I would respectfully suggest that a sump upgrade is necessary. So to answer the question, yes you can. Since the crank turns clockwise (looking from the front) plumbing the oil return into the top LHS of the sump would be logical. That way it is feeding into the partial vacuum created by the crank spinning. cheers

Yep, it's all RB's, the block, oil feed and return systems were designed for ~6,000 rpm occasionally. Circuit, drift and drag means higher than that rpm and for longer periods of time. cheers

Old news, that article has been around for years, I have previously written and posted a critique. The main problem is it assumes that your engine is PERFECTLY tuned, ie; your NEW engine is exactly the same spec as your OLD engine. This doesn’t seem to be the case on SAU, the guys here build a new better/bigger/stronger engine with large variations in the components, both internal and external. So it’s classic Catch 22, the engine needs to be run in vigorously, but you can’t because it hasn’t been tuned PERFECTLY. You can’t tune it PERFECTLY because it hasn’t been run in. As a result, I stick by my previous running in process, which is hardly gentle. cheers

1mm each side toe in on the rear. cheers PS; The suspension is full of rubber bushes everywhere, don't expect precision accuracy. ie; don't panic if it is 1.5 mm, even 2 mm is OK. It's all about consistency (ie; 1mm each side toe in, not 1 mm toe in one side and 3 mm toe out the other).

It will use oil The plugs will be oily The exhaust will be black There will be oil in the inlet pipes There will be visible blow by coming out of the breathers on the cam covers (if you remove the pipes) It will have lots of leakdown on a leak down test The oil will go black very, very quickly It will make less power than it should It will be harder to start when hot than it should be It will blow blue smoke out of the exhaust under power It will blow blue smoke out of the exhaust on over run When you take the plugs out you can see the tops of the pistons and they will be black and oily looking Enough? cheers

Sold the old RX7 2 weeks ago. The new RX7 is just about finished. The F3 is racing at the GP. I wish I was confident enough to say the R32GTST will be ready by then, but I am not. Maybe we might bring the project R33GTST out for a run. It won't be that fast, but it should be fun. cheers

Roll Centre = the point around which the chassis rolls. There is a front and a rear roll centre, determined by the location of the control arms in relation to each other. Roll Couple = the distance between the roll centre and the centre of gravity (both front and rear). Bump Steer = the amount the toe angles change when the suspension is compressed and extended fully. There is bump steer both front and rear. cheers

The LHS being short is quite common, it's the side that hits the gutters and the edge of the road surface the most. If you adjust the caster using offset bushes in the radius rods, or by shortening the radius rods, then you will change the wheelbase. As I posted previously check the caster before you do anything. cheers