Sydneykid

Unless you have camber and caster adjustment fitted aftermarket you can't adjust them on the front. There is a limited amount of camber adjustment standard on the rear (round 0.25 degree). Toe front and rear can be adjusted as usual. The standard camber and toe settings are prety much zero all round, except the rear which has a small amount of toe in. Caster is around 5 degrees positive. Cheers

[PART # SIZE COMPOUND APPROX. WEIGHT MEASURING RIM SIZE EQUIVALENT SIDEWALL WIDTH TREAD WIDTH OVERALL DIAMETER CIRCUMFERENCE 3793R P255/50R16 R2 28 8.0 26x10.50R16 10.5 9.7 26.0 82 3743R P275/40R17 R2 28 9.0 26x11.50R17 11.0 10.2 26.0 82 The 255/50/16 on an 8" rim is 10.5" wide inc sidewall bag, the tread width is 9.7" The 275/40/17 an a 9" rim is 11.0" wide inc sidewall bag, the tread width is 10.2" Time to do some measuring Cheers

Balance all of the up & down and round & round bits cheers

Circuit, drag or drift RB’s with excess oil in the cylinder head, not enough oil in the sump, oil in the catch can, wet sump, oil surge, lack of oil, big end bearing failure etc I get about 10 X PM’s a week from guys with this problem, I have posted up what is required many, many times. But still the guys want a solution after they have assembled the engine, it is in the car and they now have a problem. Well the bad news is there isn’t one solution. The answer is to do all of the steps when you are assembling the engine and then you won’t have a problem. There is no one magic, off the shelf solution. Buying a brand name restrictor, sticking it in the block and expecting that to fix the problem on its own is naive at best. Similarly fitting a baffle in the cam covers may overcome the catch can problem but it will still leave the others. On the circuit race cars we take a 5 step approach in controlling the amount of oil that is trapped in the cylinder head and/or blown into the catch can; 1.Block off one oil feed in the block (RB26’s have this standard) 2.Fit an appropriately sized restrictor to the other feed. The size of the oil pump is one of the determinates for the size of the restrictor, ie; a high flow, high pressure pump needs a smaller restrictor. Constant higher RPM needs a smaller restrictor etc. 3. Fit an external oil return from the rear of the cylinder head to the sump 4. Drill out the oil return galleries in the head and block 5. Machine around the oil return galleries to facilitate access for the oil It seems to me that many guys do #2, and some maybe #1. If you haven’t done #3, #4 or #5, then please remember that they are cylinder head off jobs. Drill out the oil return galleries in the head and block is pretty much self explanatory. As is machining (die grinder) around the oil return galleries to facilitate access for the oil to the return bgalleries. The external oil return fits to the rear of the cylinder head at the Y, there is a welsh plug there that you can remove and replace with a fitting. Then braided line to another fitting in the top of the LHS sump wing if you have one. If you don't, then you should for circuit and drift work. I have tried to include every commonly used word that I can so that this post pops up when a search is done on this problem. Maybe that will cut down the PM's to only 5 a week cheers PS; this post is not designed to stop people asking questions via PM's, maybe just reduce the repetitive ones. Plus it will hopefully save people a lot of money pulling the cylinder head off to do what is easily done for very $few when the engine is being built in the first place.

HKS have been making such a device for many years, it’s called a Vane Pressure Converter (VPC). From its name you can tell that it’s been around since vanes were used in AFM‘s, before hot wires became common. MAP sensors measure changes in pressure which is useful up until the boost controller holds the boost stable. From then on you have no pressure changes for the MAP sensor to see. So they are useless from that point onwards. So you have one dimensional mapping at WOT, ie; only the rpm changes tell the ECU what point on the MAP to use. This is obviously not the case with an AFM, they report changes in airflow to the ECU for as long as their resolution allows. Consequently at WOT you have 2 references to map against, rpm and engine load. That gives a superior result. MAP sensors also have a host of problems with the pressure pulses from multiple throttle bodies, hence are very tricky to tune on GTR’s. Be careful that you are not removing one small problem and creating 2 other large problems in its place. cheers .

Hi Brendan, I used the standard springs with the Bilsteins shocks for several months. I also had the stabiliser bars and caster kit fitted at the same time for a very acceptable ride/handling balance. My Stagea was nose up when it arrived, and I used to get the “it’s very high” comments. So I lowered the front 20 mm using the extra circlip grooves and left the rear as it came. I didn’t get any “its low” comments, but the “it’s high” comments stopped. It didn’t need any camber correction at that height, the standard rear camber adjusters had just enough. cheers

If they are the same as other "drag" tyres I have used in the past, they may well be "legal" for street use but not "recommended". They have limited tread depth and pattern, so not so good in the wet. Also the carcass is designed for straight line traction, not going around corners. What I intend to do is put them on and drive to the track, race, then drive home and change them. That said, plenty of guys drive around with them on all the time, but they are soft and wear out fairly fast. Plus I would be concerned with what the large number of heat cycles will do for the traction when I need it on the track. cheers

Thanks Adrian I will do some measuring on the weekend. Sounds like the taller sidewall of the 255/50/16's wins over the extra width of the 275/40/17's. 255 X 50% = 127.5mm, versus 275 X 40% = 110 mm. Yep, the standard Stagea rims are forged. I will adjust out any static negative camber, plus I will dial out some dynamic camber change as well. Are the 275/40/17's actually 275 mm wide? I have a pair of 255/40/17's that are 250 mm, and a set of 4 X 245/40/17's that are actually 260 mm wide. Tyre companies can't measure We will be using the tyres on the road R33GTST and the race R32GTST, so they will get some use. cheers

KYB sell their shocks to all sorts of people who stick their own brand on them. Look for oil and gas leaks, compress fully and check the damping still works and that there is gas pressure. Shake and listen for rattles. KYB's are notorious for leaking and then falling apart internally. Cheers

CHOOK COOKA

Correct, but the questions was settings, not shock absorber configuration. For the R34GT (non turbo) I use R33GTST rear shocks. cheers

Old news R33GTST's don't have inlet air temp sensors. :sorcerer: So how does it go about "telling the ECU that the incoming air in the intake system is cold" ? cheers

That's true, you will have MAP sensor problems instead. Mounted on the inlet manifold, subject to heat and vibration. cheers

I think he meant modified the cylinder head for increased oil return to the sump. We drill the oil return galleries and smooth the oil flow passages with the die grinder. Plus we fit an external oil return from the rear of cylinder head direct to the sump. Add this to the oil restriction (one feed restricted and one blocked off) in the top of the block and you have a good chance of the oil staying in the sump, not being trapped in the cylinder head. Or filling up your catch can. TIP; If ordering the sump from Performance Metalcraft make sure you specify a fitting for an oil temperature sensor. Plus a fitting for the external oil return hose into the top of the LHS wing. Cheers

A few of the WA guys have dropped the Wolf and gone for the DJetro, maybe try a post in the WA section. I am sure everyone would appreciate a run down on your experiences once it is tuned. Cheers

If it was bad enough to fall off, surely you would notice it during the fitting process. Or it would leak/weap before it fell off and you would notice that. The problem with coming from a race environment, we would never fit an oil filter without inspecting it comparing it to the one being replaced and then lock wiring it so it can't come loose. It's just one of those things that is always done. On an RB, the oil pressure sensor is at the oil filter, any leak and the dash light is on instantly. I have seen a Mitsubishi genuine oil filter packed in the wrong box, fit that to the engine and you would be in deep doodoo. Fortunately it was noticed at the time of fitting. So going OEM doesn't always guarantee a perfect result every time either. cheers

That's a point, we only use the runnng in oil (Castrol GTX) as the assembly lubricant in an RB engine. But that's not always the case with other engines, for example, on push rod V8's it is not uncommon for the camshaft manufacturer to supply some assembly lubricant. cheers

More details please cheers

How long did it take to tune? The one and only DJetro I have seen on a GTr took almost as long as a Motec M6000 from scratch. Other tuners have reported the same, it's a MAP sensor driven tune on a car with a turbo and multiple throttle bodies. Once it is at full boost and WOT there is no variation from the MAP sensor, unlike an AFM which records every change in airflow no matter how small. All you are referencing your mapping to is RPM, it's one dimensional tuning. That takes time and experience to do properly. Our race team tuner likens it to tuning with a normal Power FC where the AFM maxes out as soon as the boost target is achieved. All you have is RPM (and throttle position of course). cheers