Sydneykid

My guess is the ones with damper adjustment may be inferior quality, other wise they would be more expensive. Some question to ask yourself; Do you know what you are doing with damper adjustment? Are you capable of finding the RIGHT setting? Do you have any idea what the RIGHT setting feels like? If you have it WRONG, which way would you adjust it? If you answers are no, then you would be much better off with a superior quality shock with a wider operating window that doesn’t need adjustment cheers

The widest that will fit, same size front and rear and don't lower it too much, it really stuffs up the geometry. Cheers

Go to this thread, it shows you how to measure the springs. Then stick up the dimensions and I will work out the spring rate for you. That will at least give you some idea of how firm they are going to be. If you also post up the free height of the coil I may be able to work out how high it is going to be. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=79157 cheers

Was that intended for me? DAYZ side skirts and rear bumper only? cheers

Mt Panorama cheers

I'll kick it off, my stabiliser bars are set full soft on the front and middle on the rear. Together with the extra caster on the front, this eliminates the plough understeer that it had when standard. Cheers

Hi Gav, the theory is you paid for the maps so they belong to you. The reality is.............. Hi Ryan, thanks for the honest answer. Plenty of guys have said to me that DJetro is cheaper, but it never works out that way when you add it all up. As time goes on and the tuners get more experience with DJetros the price will come down, I can remember when Power FC's were $2,000 without Commander, plus $1,000 to install and tune. Competiton leads to lower prices. The Z32AFM's are new, it's just a matter of shopping around. The Group Buy price is $300 each and you can pick them up a little cheaper than that. cheers

Yep, that's the ADR. But Porsche, Ferrari, BMW, Mercedes, Lamborghini, Maserati, Honda (NSX) etc don't worry about it. It's one of those "letter of the law" but "we will ignore it" things. cheers

I have done the $ for few guys, once you add in the extra installation costs and the tuning costs, the DJetro works out no cheaper than a Power FC, including a new pair of Z32 AFM's. Using a 350 rwkw power target as an example. Power FC = $950 2 X Z32 AFM's = $550 Installation = $Zero Tuning = $500 Total = $2,000 DJetro = $1,050 Installation = $300 (map sensors and wiring + replace AFM's) Tuning = $900 Total = $2,250 Since you have actually done it, what did it cost you? cheers

Apples and oranges comparison. The Power FC uses the AFM as its primary load source, so it has very fast and accurate details on the actual airflow going into the engine. The Wolf uses a MAP sensor as its primary load source, which of course is useless once the max boost is achieved and held. So it NEEDS more loads points to make up for its deficiency in load sensing. Looking at it another way, the Power FC arguably has more USEABLE load points. Because the AFM is showing changes in airflow while the MAP sensor is showing no change in manifold pressure. All the Wolf has is RPM changes, that’s one dimensional tuning. If max boost is achieved at 5,000 rpm, it could easily end up with only 20 X 1 (= 20) load points between 5,000 and 8,500 rpm. Compared to the Power FC with 6 X 6 (= 36) load points. Use one of the Datalogit outputs to control the thermo fan, and other items if necessary (eg; we control the intercooler spray) Much more efficient (more power, better economy) to run the right sized injectors, than band aid in a separate fuel source. It could be argued that the PowerFC runs larger injectors so much better than the other (similarly priced) ECU’s and that’s why they have to have extra injector drivers. cheers

Those examples have fundamental differences to a Skyline; M3 = 50/50 weight distibution and high power rear wheel drive Ferrari = mid engine and high power rear wheel drive Lambo = mid engine and high power rear wheel drive Porsche = rear engine and high power rear wheel drive They have MacPherson strut front suspension, not double wishbone. So there are a whole pile of dynamic issues (camber change, strut stiction, SAI etc) that make a direct comparison quite complex. cheers

If it's at 365 mm ront and 370 mm rear it shouldn't be anywhere near the bump stops. Cheers

Fuel cut = zero fuel. That's not lean running as, technically, there is no combustion occuring. So it's not uncontrolled combustion (ie; knock) The knock reading is false, it is caused by the other noises associated with zero combustion. cheers

Boost in the inlet system slows down the closing of the inlet valves, as the valve spring is trying to close them against the boost pressure. The closing valve no longer follows the camshaft profile (ie; valve float). Around 19 psi is a reasonable rule of thumb limit we work to. You can increase this slightly by shimming the standard valve springs, but there is not a lot of room before coil bind becomes an issue if you are using higher than standard lift cams. So it should be done very carefully. Hope that was of some help cheers

Hi Brad, as per the PM, glad to see that it runs after such a BIG rebuild. I was happy that I could be of some assistance, even via remote control. I am impressd with the 5spi at 4,000 rpm, and some boost at 2,000 rpm, that's a good sign for nice power band. With an extra 400 cc's and the same cam duration and similar sized turbo on mine, I am looking forward to comparing dyno graphs. Cheers

There is no pressure AFTER the FPR, only before it. So there is no need for screw on fittings. Unless it is rice factor. cheers

Being a cast iron block, the RB20DET will ultimately handle more combustion pressure, that means more power. Being a 6 cylinder versus a 4 cylinder it will ultimately be easier to achieve a rotating balance for higher rpm, plus each up and down component is individually lighter (that means more horsepower) The 24 valve versus 16 valve configuration = more valve area per cc. That means more power Being a straight 6 versus a boxer 4, a street legal, turbo exhaust is more efficient in design Circuit race quality oil control in a FJ is not easy to achieve, it’s a boxer, that means the oil rushes to the cylinder heads due to cornering G forces. Take a look at a Porsche oil control system for an example. Don’t ignore gearboxes, a high power RB gearbox is much easier/cheaper to obtain than a high power FJ gearbox. A standard R33GTST box will handle more torque and RPM than the most modified FJ gearbox. But lets face it if you were building a car you wouldn’t use either engine. If you want turbo power you would go for an R30DET. If you want light weight, an SR20 or a K20 would be a better proposition. If you want N/A grunt, then an LS7 is hard to go past. cheers

That's a spacer, the deck (top of the block) is still "closed" where the liner is inserted. cheers

They are very small, so not much flow. Would take a long time to cool down the oil. cheers

The Boost Control Kit comes with a MAP sensor, the same MAP sensor as the AVCR. The Boost Control Kit solenoid is the same solenoid as the AVCR. That would be a lazy tuner. I would say the tune on the engine is substandard or it has other issues causing the boost to fluctuate. Instead of fixing the real problem, he prefers to stick a band aid on it. Use the boost controller to cover up for other issues that really should be fixed. Technically speaking, boost is load dependant, not RPM dependant, so making boost corrections based on rpm points is not correct. It might smooth out the boost curve on the dyno, where the load and gearing is exactly the same every time. In the real world, that is simply not the case, where boost is very much gearing and load dependant. For example, you could be applying a boost correction at 6,000 rpm in fourth gear that is simple wrong at 6,000 rpm in second gear. Next time someone tells you that rpm boost correction is a good thing to have, ask them to explain how they get around the effect on boost of differing loads at the same rpm. cheers

My first suggestion would be to check the part numbers on the Kings springs. The correct Kings springs do not have excessively high spring rates, around 25% higher than standard. If the spring part numbers are correct, then it must be the shocks. Usually the primary reason for harsh ride in Skylines is that they are mostly too low, but with a ride height at 365 front and 370 rear, it is unlikely that is an issue with your car. Those heights are suspicious, usually with Kings they are 355/345, so make sure you check the part numbers carefully. cheers

As I said in the PM, well done. I am glad I could be of some assistance, even remotely. So that was 10 pm yesterday, it should be run in by now. Then on the dyno by lunch time. cheers

Weight distribution, R32/33/34's are very front heavy, the 4wd versions even more so. cheers

The stabiliser bars are a pretty easy DIY, most of the guys do it themselves. Any decent suspension shop can fit the camber kit. Your local Fulcrum are most likely your best bet, but be aware that they will try and push their products and rubbish everyone else. So they can be a pain to deal with first up, but their work is usually OK. cheers

I had a deal stiched up, but he bought an S2 and sold the S1 with the DAYZ kit on it. No problems, I will find one. cheers