Sydneykid

Try your local CBC or NBC bearing shop. cheers

Where any of you guys and girls that got busted given in writing what you had to comply with? Some documentation. Was it 2006 emmisions or 1989 (when the GTR was made) emmisions? Or was it the emmisions limits when the car was complied? Was it 2006 noise limit or 1989 (when the GTR was made) noise limit? Or was it the noise limits when the car was complied? Was it 2006 tinting limit or 1989 (when the GTR was made) tinting limit? Or was it the tinting limit when the car was complied? cheers

With the caster we run and the sticky tyres, the steering gets very heavy over a 30 minute race. Skylines (particularly the 4wd ones) are not exactly light over the front wheels either. cheers

This thread is TOTALLY confusing............. Let get rid of the RB20 cylinder head on RB25/26/30 idea first. The bores are different sizes RB20 = 78 mm, RB25/36/30 = 86 mm The water jackets are in different places. The oil feeds are in different places. That means considerable alloy welding and redrilling of the RB20 cylinder head. It Would be cheaper to buy a complete RB25DET than pay someone to do the work. I know becuase we did it about 15 years ago (RB20 head on RB30 block) it was a bitch of a job. Does that kill the RB20 cylinder head idea? cheers

Try some Shell Optimax Extreme 100 ron, dropped the knock from 70 to zero in the R33. No other changes. We have had 305 rwkw out of an R34GTT. Tomei 260 Poncams, R33GTR intercooler, ported and polished cylinder head, standard head gasket (I don't use thick ones) and a Garret GT30. It wasn't all nice to drive, too peaky, lots of lag, poor throtle response. So we went back to 265 rwkw (GCG high flow) at 1.1 bar, much nicer to drive and ultimately faster point to point. With Extreme I reckon we could have got to 280 rwkw at 1.2 bar, which would be plenty. cheers

Suggestions follow; 1. Yep, going up the hill from Mooney Mooney Bridge on the F3, 4 people, boot full of wine from the Hunter = ceramic in the cat disease 2. Nope they work well from 4 psi to 12 psi, that's a big efficiency range 3. Don't confuse efficiency with durability. Also keep in mind an 8.5 to 1 compression ratio 2 litre has quite a few different characteristics from a 9 to 1 compression ratio 2.5 litre. Remember boost is simply a measure of resistance. The airflow required to make 1 bar on a RB20 is substantially less than the airflow required to make 1 bar on a RB25. Efficiency is all about airflow. cheers

The standard front and rear tyres and wheels are the same on R33GTST's ie; 16 X 7 The standard front and rear tyres and wheels are the same on R3GTT's ie; 17 X 7 The standard tyre on R33GTST's is either 205/55/16 or 225/50/16 (depending on Model) The standard tyre on R34GTT's is either 205/50/17 or 225/45/17 (depending on Model) Take look at the tyre chart on the inner door panel of your car to confirm cheers

The KCA347 is a rear camber adjustable bush kit, very usefull. Whoever told you they were useless is probably not using/installing them correctly. Just follow the instructions. cheers

THEY could afford me , based on the prices they charge . cheers

You can measure and add up. cheers

I have sent this guy 3 PM's, anybody got a response from him? cheers

Send me the spring dimensions and I will work out the spring rates for you. This thread shows you how; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=79157 cheers

I understand where you are coming from. But I have to remember that they get a hundred or so calls a day from wankers who want the biggest, baddest, thickest, fattest (phattest) stabiliser bars in the country. cheers

Send me the spring dimensions and I will work out the spring rates for you. This thread shows you how; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=79157 cheers

Hi Rol, fronts are ~190 lbs per inch (3.4 kg/mm) and the rears are ~195 lbs per inch (3.5 kg/mm) on the soft rate. Send me a picture of rear springs, side on, so I can count the progressive coils and I will work out the high rate. cheers

That would most likely be a 24 mm front and 22 mm rear, get the verniers out and check just to be sure. For the tyres you are running I would be looking at 27 mm front and 24 mm rear. Sell off the 24/22 's to someone for road use and I will look after you on price for a set of 27/24's (with the extra adjustment holes). PM me for more details. cheers

You have lowered the car, so the standard caster and camber settings are meaningless. If you haven't fitted adjustable bushes, you can't adjust them anyway. Actually you can adjust the rear camber 0.25 degree with the standard adjusters, but considering how much you have lowered it, that won't help much. From the R33GTST Whiteline and Bilstein Group Buy thread following are my recommended settings Front Caster +7.0 degrees or more Camber -1.0 degrees Toe Zero each side Rear Camber -0.5 degrees Toe -2mm each side Hope that is of some help cheers

I can do the calcs, but on 12 volts? It's not a simple jack, it has to be attached to suspension arms. What about camber, caster and toe angle changes? Tyre contact patch, not to mention SAI? cheers

What stabiliser bar sizes are you running? What settings (they are adjustable aren't they)? Which end looses the grip? cheers PS: Slow corners = use more ripple strip, turn in, apex and exit Slower corners = straddle the ripple strip, apex only

I have killed 2 X R34GTT turbos at 12 psi. They don't make any more over a genuine 12 psi anyway, they heat soak the air so much you get detonation. So you have to retard the ignition timing and loose all the power you gained. cheers

Hi guys, I need a couple of sets of R32 and R33 and R34 standard strut tops for some suspension engineering work I have been contracted to do. Willing to pay for them or give discount on any Skyline (or Stagea) suspension parts from Whiteline. I can arrange pick up by Toll Priority anywhere in Australia. Please PM me with details. cheers

The usual problem with sperical bearings, they wear out fast, knock like a bustard and you can't buy replacements. You aren't the first with this problem, nor I suspect will you be the last. What you do is use normal race coil over spring tops of the correct size for the springs (around $40 each) and standard strut tops, without the rubber spring seats. You may have to drill the centre hole in the race coil over spring tops to suit the shock shaft. Plus you will have to change the bump stops and the dust covers. All up you are looking at around $300 (depending on the cost of the standard strut tops) inlcuding an hour's work fitting them up. I can do it for you and fit the new springs at the same time. All you have to do is pack them up and I will get them picked up by Toll Priority. Turn around would be ~5 working days. PM me for more details. cheers

CAMS rally rego, look into it. cheers

That's a damper adjuster for the shock absorbers. It turns using a small flat brade screw driver. Clockwise is harder, anti clockwise is softer. Give it a try, make sure you set the pairs the same. cheers

PM sent cheers