Sydneykid

I reckon you have 2 maps, one for "max performance" and one for "poorer performance". The fuel ecomony shouldn't change if the car is driven the same. Efficient combustion for power, is efficient combustion for fuel ecomomy. Placebo effect, you flick the switch on the ECU for fuel economy and the brain gets switched at the same time. Hence better fuel economy. The best fuel economy switch is the one under your right foot. cheers PS; yes I have tested it, I set up a car some years ago with an economy/power switch (that did nothing). After a month of testing (the owner thought the switch leaned out the mixtures), bingo the economy position used 12% less fuel. You should have seen his face when I showed him an unconnected switch.

I wouldn't be running an N1 water pump on a road car. They are designed to avoid cavitiation as sustained high rpm (as in circuit racing). Not a good idea on high power road car. There are plenty of problems in RB oiling systems, I strongly suggest you do a search ("Sydneykid" and "+oil+restrictors") Fitting a wide oil pump drive flange collar to the R32 crank is a good idea, for more details do a search ("Sydneykid" and "+adaptor+collar") cheers

Hi James, max power probably not much different, average power quite a bit different, based on my experience. The standard turbo is ball bearing and water cooled, Nissan thought it necessary to specify it that way. They could have saved millions by specifying a plain bearing turbo, so they obviously thought it was a good idea. Turbos never have an “easy life”, they are cooked by 750 degree exhaust at one end, have ambient air ingested at the other end and get 79 psi of oil pressure squirted into them, hot or cold. I would never consider that their life is in any way easy. cheers

Datalogit Settings 1 "O2 Feedback" Default is 1.047 lambda ie; 15.3 A/F ratio = around 1 volt on the lambda sensor output Change it to whatever you like as long as the narrow and slow lambda sensor can read it Tip, lean it out at pre boost rpm (load) and use the acceleration enrichment to get the throttle response cheers

Standard turbo on RB20/25 is ball bearing and water cooled (so they have oil flow restrictor standard) GCG Ball Bearing High Flow is $1750 (PM me for details) Plain bearing high flow is around $1300, no water cooling, the oil does both the cooling and the lubricating Ball bearing turbos give faster spooling and longer service life, plus transmit less heat into the oil. Personally I would never use a plain bearing turbo on any of my engines, the maintenance factor alone makes it a simple choice. cheers

Don't think of it as a tuning device. Look at it as if it is 8 digital gauges, it's good value for money for that reason alone. It's also a great diagnostic tool, just like the Consult is for a Nissan dealer. Cheers

There is only one Castrol SRF, but I don't use it in road cars. It is almost impossible to flush all of the old fluid out and I don't like mixing silicon ester and polyglycol fluids. I prefer Castrol Response Super Dot 4, it is the best polyglycol they make. Cheers

1989/90 R32GTST's weigh 1265 kgs, no sunroof, no ABS For the same reasons 1989/90 R32GTR's weigh less than 1991/93 R32GTR's Using engine power to weight is simplistic, you need to take into account the relative transmission losses. Weight affects more than acceleration, there is also braking and cornering to be considered if you are looking at circuit work. There is also the effect of where the extra weight is. The extra ~200 kgs carried by a GTR is mostly on the front wheels, that has a big effect on how they handle. Take a look at the success ballast applied to certain forms of racing, 40 kgs will take you from the front to the back of the grid. cheers

Well said. I will comment on one point though Just because a shock is not adjustable doesn't mean it is sub standard. It may mean that it is in fact superior, because it doesn't NEED to be adjusted. It may have a higher level of sophistication in its valving such that it handles a wider variety of conditions. Sometimes the adjustment is simply a band aid for a poorly designed shock. cheers

You sure are confused…………….let’s see if I can fix that……………. 1. There is no relationship between the restrictor in the block to decrease the oil flow to the head and the restrictor in the turbo oil feed. 2. The turbo oil feed is plumbed into the block BEFORE the head feed oil restrictor. So the size of the head feed oil restrictor has no effect what so ever on the turbo oil feed. 3. The size of the head feed oil restrictor is ONLY dependant on the oil pump used and the RPM that the engine sees. The turbo (plain or ball bearing) has ZERO effect on the size of the head feed oil restrictor. 4. On RB’s, all ball bearing turbos require an oil flow restrictor because the pipework and fittings are designed for plain bearing turbos. Plain bearing turbos require significantly more oil flow than ball bearing turbos. 5. Ball bearing, water cooled turbos require less oil flow than plain bearing oil cooled turbos 6. SOME ball bearing turbos come with oil flow restrictors standard, some DON’T. Some have add in restrictors, separate parts that you can remove. Some have the oil feed drilled to the right size (ie; no external restrictor is required). Look in the oil feed on the turbo core, if the hole is larger than 2 mm there is no restrictor. If the hole is smaller than 2 mm, then that is the restrictor you are looking at. Hope that helps cheers

Excuse me if this sounds cynical.............. So you can make the car go faster around the circuit by adjusting the shocks? You know which way to adjust the front and the rear shocks to tune the handling for faster lap times? OR Do you simply adjust the shocks so that it feels different? Harder must be be faster right? So you just make it harder both ends and away you go? SAY It's understeering on corner entry, neutral at mid corner and oversteers on corner exit Which way do you adjust the front shocks to fix this? What about the rear shocks? Harder or softer? The reason I ask is because I hear this all time, that adjustable shocks are good for the circuit. But the reality is less than 10% of the guys with adjustable shocks actually adjust them. And less than 10% of them have any idea what they are doing. Only you know if you are in the 1% or the 99% group. Guys waste their money on adjustable shocks when they have no idea what to do and in fact most of them make the handling worse (slower lap times) by adjusting the shocks. So 99% if them would be better off with a decent quality non adjustable shock with a large window of operation that simply doesn't need adjusting. It's exactly the same as I tell people when they ask about adjustable stabiliser bars. Before you spend your money make sure YOU are going to benefit from the adjustability. cheers

Isn't August 1998 a Series 2? Mine is pretty late in the Series 1 build, remember it had Series 2 rear door. cheers

Are you really going to run spherical bearings on the rear of a Stagea? Ask you mechanic about NVH? Sphericals are damn noisy, particularly with a big rear sound box of a waggon. Ask you mechanic about subframe cracking? Spericals have no give, hit a bump and it is 100% transmitted to the subframe. Ask your mechanic about wear? Spherical bearings NEED maintenance, they get dirt, grit, sand and mud in them and they wear out FAST. They have to be cleaned regularly, then greased. Ask your mechanic about replacement sphericals? When they wear out (which won't be long) they will need replacing, make sure you don't have to buy complete arms. Many suppliers use unique spherical which you can not buy as spare parts. There is a thread in the supension section if you want more details. cheers

Interesting, the sample kit I have has 2 large split and 2 small split If the 2 small are not split, how did you get them above the subframe? Remove the subframe? Or cut the bushes? cheers D

They are progressively wound springs, looking at the pictures and counting the coils, the rates are something like; Front = 230 lbs per inch soft and 690 lbs per inch hard Rear = 130 lbs per inch soft and 470 lbs per inch hard With that amount of progression (5 and 6 coils respectively) they are going to be low, very low. They are also going to be very harsh riding with those sorts of spring rates. Since they are not Kings as was advertised, I would try and get my money back from the guy who sold them to you. cheers

cheers

Be carefull, the article in HPI/ZOOM is missleading. The Otomoto kit only has 4 bushes. 2 large (not split) and 2 small (split). When you use the 2 small bushes below the subframe you have to tie wire them otherwise they WILL fall out. As you can see from the instructions (copy following) the Whiteline kit has 6 bushes, 2 large (not split), 2 small (split) and 2 small (not split). The 2 large bushes do not need to be split as they are mounted below the subframe. The 2 small split bushes are for fitting above the subframe without removing the subframe from the chassis. The 2 small non split bushes do not need to be split as they are mounted below the subframe. Since they are not split, they WILL NOT fall out, ie; they do not need lock wiring For $5 extra I would buy the Whiteline kit, get the extra 2 bushes and avoid the need for lock wiring, which is not a permanent solution. cheers

Mine were delivered today. I haven't seen them yet Reports are they are black, round and sticky What more could you want? Thanks for organising the Group Buy cheers

You rang? Hard to read............. Caster looks like 5.84 on the left and 8.08 on the right That'll be the problem Should have MORE caster on the left, not LESS Helps to stop the car following the camber of the road (that makes the rain water flow into the gutter) It's not unusual to have less on the left, its the side that cops the gutter hits and the pot holes on the side of the road. You need a camber kit. Check out the R34GTT Group Buy for details http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=88141 cheers

Hi Paul, the better brands come with rubber/plastic cups that seal around the through bolt onto the non moving part of the spherical. Plus they have grease nipples. So you can do a grease change without removing them. cheers

Its those guys in Silvias It's all their fault Should be banned from buying Skyline stuff Skyline parts belong ONLY on Skylines cheers

Our R34GTT did the turbo whistle as soon as we upped the boost even a little bit. The Stagea is the same. The R33GTST doesn't and its turbo is a lot older than the R34GTT or the Stagea. Maybe something to do with the Hitachi turbos, plastic compressors etc. cheers

Sure if you have one rebuild it. But that's not what is forcing the prices up, it's the guys that DON'T have one, who need one, that is causing the demand to exceed the supply and thats' what pushes the prices up. cheers

What bump stops are those? They aren't the standard ones, unless they have been trimmed the wrong way ie: cut off the pointy end instead of the flat end. This is a standard bumpstop, trimming is done from the top (not the bottom) to give some progression. Otherwise it slams into the hard stop. This is the style of bump stop I use in the Group Buy kit, it is soft and progressive in its action. cheers

Upgrading stabiliser bars is the best value for money suspension upgrade you can do. cheers