Sydneykid

PM sent, but just in case……………. There are 2 choices with stabiliser bars, adjustable and non adjustable. They are the same quality, the only difference is the adjustable stabiliser bars are well, adjustable. You can fine tune the handling balance to suite your personal tastes. The guys doing track days usually adjust the stabiliser bars while they have the car jacked up to swap to their track tires. If you want fit and forget then save ~$25 each and buy the fixed rate stabiliser bars. I have selected the appropriate sizes of fixed rate bars to suite the rest of the kit. cheers

Thanks Adrian, I do have set of Stagea 16" wheels, same size as R33GTST. I was thinking more along the lines of R32GTR rims as they are 8". The taller sidewall is a thought, have you compared the 255/50/16's and the 275/40/17's times? Is there a noticeable difference? It's a width versus sidewall comparison, which gives the best result. I have a pair of ugly 17 X 9" with a serious 45 mm offset, on those wheels the 275's would have no problems outwards, maybe inwards would be an issue though. That's what I have to measure. cheers

Yep, same suspension, very slight weight difference. cheers

Caster is best measured on a wheel aligner, as it is a differential measurement. Simply put, the amount of camber when the wheel is turned one way compared to the amount of camber when the wheel is turned the other way (20 degrees is the standard). If you move one side of the front subframe forward you will increase the caster on that side. This will give uneven caster when compared to the other side, the car will pull to one side as a result (the side with the least caster). Currently you have said the car tracks OK, so that must mean the caster is somewhere near similar, side to side. Move one side of the subframe and that won't be the case. Also moving the front subframe will change the toe settings, moving towards toe out. My suggestion would be to get the wheel alignment checked before you touch anything, all 4 wheels, camber, caster and toe. cheers

Bearings shops (CBC and NBC) sell C spanners in several sizes. Just measure the diameter of the lower spring seat and the locking collar (if it has one). cheers PS; why has it dropped a cm on one side? That's the important question.

Some clarification; 1 Body roll should be controlled with the anti roll (stabiliser) bars, springs are there to hold the car up and absorb bumps. If you have a spring rate high enough to limit the roll substantially, it will be too high to absorb the bumps. 2. On a double wishbone car (like R32/33/34 Skylines) camber is adjusted via the control arms, not the shock/spring unit. 3. You can buy the Kings/Whiteline etc springs in the correct height 4. The Bilstein shocks in the Group Buy come with additional circlip grooves so that you can further fine tune the height. 5. R32/33/34 Skylines come with coil overs standard (the coil spring is located around the shock absorber, hence coil over) Check out the Group Buy thread for more details, and some feedback from the 50 or so guys that have bought kits. cheers

Check the bushes in the suspension arms and the 4 subframe to chassis locations. R32's are getting on and rubber deteriorates over time. cheers

Q45 = 90 mm RB20/25/Z32 = 80 mm RB26 = 65 mm Yep. you will need to tune it exactly as you would for any other AFM swap. On the GTR Power FC there is a selection for Q45 AFM's on the menu, it's a good start. Certainly FAR easier than tuning with MAP sensors on a turbo charged engine with multiple throttle bodies. Don't ignore the extra tuning and installation costs, I wouldn't be surprised if it cost more than the Power FC DJetro itself. The best I have seen is 424 rwkw (645 bhp) out of a single Q45 AFM, no restriction issues as 90 mm is plenty big. From a resolution perspective there is more in it, maybe enough for 450 rwkw, we will see shortly. cheers

What's the caster readings? cheers

Well, let's start of with its too low, far too low. The roll centre is now too close to the CoG ie; the roll couple is too small. The lower control arms are pointing upwards to the wheel, not parrallel to the ground, so the dynamic camber change angles are reversed ie; it's going posititive camber under compression. Plus there will be noticeable bump steer. Hence the oversteer/understeer balance changes due to the roll couple inbalance and tyre contact patch issues. The front height should be 350 to 355 mm and the rear should be 340 to 345 mm. The front should be toe out a little, as discussed previously. The rear toe is OK, but if it is still reluctant to tuirn in, then try some toe out as discussed previously. It doesn't have enough camber, front or rear for the circuit and R type tyres. It needs another 1 degree negative both ends. Then do the stabiliser bar upgrades as per the previous posts. Hope that helps Cheers

I have never seen blue ones, black, yellow and silver are the usual colours. They should have a serial number stamped into the shock body, near the lower mount. Which you can see without removing them. Send me the those and I will look them up for you. cheers

I thougt this would stir up some stuff, and I am glad for that. There are 2 issues here; 1. The R32GTST is elligble for IP racing, because it is an approved (High Performance) import by DOTARS. You just apply to your IP committee to have it included on the list. Same as the guys did for the Silvia, you will have no problem getting support for that application. The same applies to R33GTST, R33GTR, R34GTT, R34GTR etc But the above is not the real problem...... 2. Even if the R32GTST was elligible it would be uncompetitive because it would have to run a single 36 mm restrictor. That means a power limit of around 360 bhp (210 rwkw) and a useable rpm band up to 6,000 rpm. We survive with the R32GTR in IP because it has twin turbos standard, so is allowed to run 2 X 27 mm restrictors. That allows a little more power and a slightly higher useable rpm range. The 4wd then gives us a big jump off the start. For the same reason the tyres last a little longer. But the weight and the restricted top speed means we get caught up and killed fairly quickly. The longer the straight, the quicker the death. My issue is I have been arguing this for 4 years, but when the IP Committe is 80% rotary drivers and the 2 elligibility officers are also rotary drivers, you don't get a lot of understanding. They aren't allowed to run Peripheral Ports, so we can suffer the restrictor problem. They have no sympathy for the Late Model issue, there are no late Model rotary Touring Cars, they are Sports Cars (except the Cosmo of course). In NSW and Vic the Late Model turbo guys have enough trackdays, super sprints, drifting, drags etc to compete at, so they don't care. In Tas and WA they have created their own classes. WA was supposed to be finished last year but they lobbied and got their "Street Car" class continued. Until every IP committe in the country is full of Late Model Turbo car drivers, we won't get anywhere. Hence my "bat and ball" analogy, you can't change it from outside, only from inside will we succeed. Cheers PS; PL claims the R32GTST was entered as an "R32". The entry was accepted because everyone assumed it was a GTR. When it got to scrutineering it was too late, or so PL claims. I never knew about the Stewards hearing, they suppress that stuff pretty well.

Made by the Taiwanese filter company. cheers D

Not enough voltage/current? Turning over slow? Try a better jumper battery, larger jumper leads or charge the battery overnight. cheers PS, you're a naughty boy, you should drive your GTR everyday.

Before I get a 100 PM's, try this link; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=61207 If the link doesn't work, do a search "Sydneykid" and "Jaycar" in the Stagea section. cheers

Bump because I am sick of responding to PM's from people too lazy to do a search. cheers

PM sent cheers

My 20 cents..... Use a standard Power FC. Run a single Q45 AFM Parrellel the wiring, run the 2 X AFM connections to the 1 X Q45 AFM The Power FC will see 2 X AFM's both at exactly the same voltage Tune as per normal cheers

R34GTR (RB26DETT) block measures up exactly the same as an R32GTR N1 block. Personally I think the N1 block is under utilised in a 450 rwkw application, a standard block will handle that easily. My 20 cents……. Dismantle the R34GTR RB26DETT, clean it up and work out exactly what it is that you need to replace. Then get on with the rebuild stick a standard crank, some good rods, bearings and pistons in it and control the oil temperature and flow properly. It will handle the power you want easily and with a decently ported cylinder head and 9 to 1 compression ratio it will have all the response you need. Ceramic coat the piston crowns, the combustion chambers and the exhaust ports for the superior temperature control and a further improvement in response. cheers

I have had an HKS low/rear mount cast manifold extrude honed. Looks good made, more power, also had it black ceramic coated so it looks nicer and sheds less heat. You don't have to remove the exhaust manifold to swap turbos, but you have ot remove the dump. Have you upgraded it to a split one? Wrapped it back to the cat for heat retention? cheers

Take your time Brad and get it right. Don't rush to show it off, it will get there when it is ready. I know it is frustrating, but nothing good comes easy, particulary when it comes to highly modified cars. cheers

Are you running 13.8 volts to the Walbro or 11.2 volts? (ie; standard wiring or relay back to battery?) The common Walbros are rated at 550 bhp at 13.8 volts at 40 psi. You are running 23 psi (boost) plus 40 psi (fuel pressure) = 63 psi If you are only using 11.2 volts, the pump will run out of flow and pressure at around 380 bhp. You need to check the fuel pressure on the dyno at max injector duty. cheers PS; clean GTR injectors are good for 265 rwkw.

Great thing, I have a DFA on the Stagea with the matching IEBC. They work very well, not one problem in over 12 months of use. Easy to tune, very accurate voltage control. I have had several SAFC's and I find the DFA just as good for 1/5th the cost. There is a thread in the Stagea section on building, installing and tuning if you want more details. cheers

MT recommended rim width for 275/40/17 is 9". I have about 20 X 17" wheels that are suitable, but no 16" wheels wide enough. So the extra $25 is not an issue, cheaper than buying wheels. I just have to check the clearances on the 2 cars. So I will either get a pair of 255/50/16's or 275/40/17's. cheers

It is quite common for people to change the oil as well as the filter after 20 minutes or so of first running. This is not an opinion I agree with. The filter change is quite logical, there is always the chance of some machinings being left from the build and they can block the oil filter which them is bypassed ie; no filtering. So it's a good idea with sound supporting logic. However I can't see the logic in changing the oil. There are 3 reasons why you change oil; 1. It's gets dirty from cleaning the engine (the detergent part of the oil mixture). But a brand new engine isn't dirty to start with, it might have some left over machinings, but it isn't dirty. So the oil is not going to need changing for that reason. 2. The oil picks up contaminents from the combustion process. But 20 minutes of fast idling isn't going to contaminate the oil to any noticeable extent. So the oil is not going to need changing for that reason. 3. The lubricating capability of the oil is smashed out of it by high rpm, heavy combustion pressures, many heat cycles and a breakdown of its molecular structure due to the passage time. But 20 minutes of fast idling isn't going to damage the oil in that fashion. So the oil is not going to need changing for that reason. I have heard guys say they change the oil because it might be contaminated by leaks (water or fuel) from a faulty assembly process. That's not a reason for blindly changing the oil, it may in fact cover up the problem. When I remove the oil filter I always cut it open and have a look at the contents. The oil floats on any coolant and fuel smells, so it is very easy to spot. If I detect a possible problem, I fix that problem, then change the oil. Simplistically changing the oil achieves nothing. So I see no logical reason to change something that doesn't need changing. cheers