Sydneykid

The 6 TB's on the RB26 have a larger area than an 80 mm single TB I have seen no evidence of restriction up to 700 bhp from the RB26 TB's If restriction is a problem, them you have more power than response is an issue. What am I saying.... RB26 TB's are crap and should never be used (that should stop one set being used on another engine) The expression strawberries to cops come to mind cheers

I am interested in the black faced GReddy boost gauge, is it still available? Will you take an offer? Have cash, can pick up tomorrow? cheers

I am up for a pair of 275/40/17's cheers

You need to get a 4 wheel alignment done and the HICAS zeroed. Heasmans are the go in Sydney and Centreline or Traction Tyres in Melbourne. The local tyre shop is NOT a good idea. cheers

New gaskets should never leak, the smoke is usually the result of engine assembly lubricant making its way into the combustion process. Oil burning off the hot components and rings not yet sealing. Idle is not a good description, more like no load, maybe around 2,000 rpm. Driving is not good, stuff happens fast and you can get stuck somewhere. cheers

What were the ride heights? They are very important on all Skylines but GTR's in particular. Other suggestion/comments follow; 1, The small amount of front toe out I suggested would make no difference to tyre wear, compared to the 2+ degrees of negative camber. 2. Don’t do the rear toe in without doing the front toe out. It will make the turn in understeer worse. 3. Sorry I don’t understand, a larger front stabiliser bar will reduce the roll and help keep the inside rear wheel on the track. Replacing the bushes from the standard rubber to polyurethane makes ZERO difference to the mid corner and corner exit anti roll. They only effect the initial turn in roll, once the compliance difference is taken up, the bars react according to their size. With a 200 lbs per inch front spring rate, I can assure you that a GTR will need an upgrade in its front anti roll. To balance that, a rear anti roll upgrade will also be required. The suspension is a package, change one thing and it will affect the others. cheers

Hi Brad, I am sure I have PM'd you our standard run in procedure, but for the other readers; Castrol GTX (the basic no frills mineral oil) with new filter. Run engine for about 1/2 hr or until well warm. Change oil filter. Engines can have particles in them that acccumulate during the build/maching proces and they need to be removed from the engine ASAP, these are caught in the oil filter. If you leave them in, the oil filter can get blocked and so will be bypassed. Check basic tune on the dyno or on the road with portable lambda sensor. Drive to Bathurst and back, lots of varying conditions, up and down hills, freeway, long climbs etc Refill with Castyrol Formula R Synthetic, new oil filter. I use 10W60 in all of my own engines. Do leak down test, if OK then final tune on the dyno. Go racing Cheers

Simply parrallel them up, the ECU will only see one voltage signal. It's just like the RB26 ECU, which internally averages the 2 X AFM voltages and maps fuel and ignition accordingly. cheers

I can add to Duncan's list; Hollinger made all of the BMW SuperTourer gearboxes worldwide. Harrop makes callipers, hats, uprights, crankshafts etc for many of the leading race teams in the world Motec ECU's and dashes are found in almost every form of motorsport worldwide Proflex designed and manufactured the Subaru WRC shock absorbers etc etc cheers

Not if the ports are restricting the flow. By opening them up you get more flow. If I put an RB26 and an RB25 cylinder head side by side you would be hard pressed to pick the difference (without looking at the stud patterns). RB cylinder heads are not as good as some people claim, grossly obverrated. The basic design is good, but they are still a mass produced, cast alloy production car part, designed in 1988 and made to a price. cheers

Be careful that you are not confusing the quality of manufacture with the underlying design engineering. The Japanese are very good at production engineering the hell out of a product so it fits together perfectly, doesn’t leak and is totally reliable for its intended life. This is not the same as designing a product from scratch, coming up with the idea in the first place, inventing it if you like. Take a look at the worldwide patent lodgement statistics, the Japanese are grossly underrepresented considering their population and education standards. Have a look at the patents lodged for suspension and you will mostly find European countries of origin. The sheer size of the domestic Japanese market (population 130 million) makes this sort of quality possible, with CAD/CAM common and repetition manufacturing almost compulsory. Add this to the bolt on mentality forced on them by extremely expensive mechanical work and you can see why the products look fantastic, fit perfectly and are quick to install. A product can be all of those and still not be a good product, particularly if its intrinsic design is flawed. An example (simplistic, I know, but still relevant) take a look at your JDM speedo with its 180 kph maximum. Now compare that to the autobarn, where 180 kph puts you in the slow lane. cheers

Well at least somebody reads what I write cheers

Yep, that's why the 11 mm studs are expensive compared to 1/2". The 12mm ones are expensive because they have RB26 written on the box. cheers

Bascially that's a pretty good set up you have there, just a few items that need checking, changing and upgrading. The first thing to do is to measure the heights, centre of wheel to guard on each corner. That will at least eliminate a potential problem. The first thing I would fix would be to toe the front tyres out around 2 mm each side and toe the rear tyres in 1-2 mm per side. That will help the turn in and remove soem of the exit oversteer. The second this I would fix; My suggestion would be a 24 mm adjustable on the front and a 22 mm adjustable on the rear. That will stop the weight transfer and make the transition more progressive. Plus increase the tyre contact patch by reducng the roll. Third on my list, would be rear subframe alignment bushes. If it doesn't already have them, the subframe movement distrubes the tyre contact patch causing loss of traction. Hope that was of some help cheers

I estimated the first time out ET and TS pretty well, not to be a smart ass, but to simply voice my opinion. I based this estimate on; 1. The power curve of the engine, it’s as peaky as you would expect 2. The heat soak it is going to suffer with no ambient air feed and no heat shielding 3. The obvious inexperience of the driver and his crew 4. The total concentration on engine, with all other items seemingly ignored So shall we have another guessing competition for its second attempt? Hopefully the driver will have learnt a few things, the heat soak issues will have been fixed and the crew will be able to get the car to complete more than 2 runs. Without any other changes I reckon; 11.9 at 123 mph Anybody else care to have a go? cheers PS; keep in mind I tried to warn of items 1 and 2 and got insults in response.

RB20/25/30 = 11 mm RB26 = 12 mm There are 12.7 mm (1/2"), it's a common size for small block V8's = cheap cheers

Have a read of this thread, if you have any questions please just ask. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85467 cheers

Let me start off by apologising for CAMS bashing on SAU, but it’s better that everyone understands what is going on and why Tas has this sort of racing and other states don’t. I have always liked the “Targa” Class, it caters for cars that otherwise might sit idle for 11 months of the year. What you guys have done is to develop a new class because you don't like the CAMS classes. Basically. neither do I, restricting turbo engines in Improved Production and not restricting other engines is totally illogical. Sometimes we feel like a few lone voices in the wilderness on this subject. Personally I would be much happier if you lobbied CAMS and had the Improved Production rules amended. There are enough “Targa” Class competitors to have a voice, but taking your bat and ball and playing another game isn’t going to achieve anything. The Improved Production Nationals are in Tasmania this year, it would be nice to see some of the “Targa” class guys make an impact. cheers

If you have a set of corner weight scales, it is best to balance the car with the driver. Otherwise, set it up evenly as you have no better reference (than equal height). cheers

Based on my experience with our R34GTT and couple more, yours is no different to any other. Buy a decent boost gauge, the factory one is not to be relied on. The 12 psi is most likely really 10 psi, which is OK for track days. That's what our R34GTT went to with similar mods. Get the SAFC and tune the A/F ratios The R34GTT ECU is pretty smart, it goes R&R mapping at around 8 psi. And gets quite savage at 10 psi. This is not actually due to the boost level, it is a result of the AFM seeing the increased airflow that comes from increasing the boost. The SAFC reduces the AFM voltage that the ECU sees, hence leaning out the A/F ratios and at the same time avoiding the R&R mapping cheers

Why do you want to run 2 boost levels? If you don't want to go as fast, don't press the throttle down so far. cheers

The Mines R34GTR uses the Nismo style that bolts directly onto the fuel rail. They are ~$150 from Nengun. cheers PS; so do I

And my prediction was :sorcerer: I wasn't that far off, do I win the guessing competiton? What's the prize? cheers

My 20 cents. Get an SAFC, tune the A/F ratios and enjoy the power increase and improved fuel economy. cheers

Hi Dennis, Front = 355.063 lbs per inch Rear = 261.929 lbs per inch (if 10.1 mm) most likey 10 mm = 252.758 lbs per inch Cheers