Sydneykid

guys, the cheques are in the mail. I wasn't me, I only have one logon, don't have time for more than one. cheers PS; We are doing a run of 5 X RB30's for race team customers in the US and UK. This guy was lucky, on the same day he contacted me one of the customer changed his order from 3 engines to 2 engines. Hence we had one spare, so he is getting an absolute bargain.

They go from the front lower control arms forward to the subframe cheers

The 450 lbs per inch front is almost circuit racing suitable, still a bit high though. The 400 lbs per inch rear is going to limit the traction somewhat, about half that is more like it. My suggestion for a cheap fix would be to put the rear springs in the front and buy a pair of 250 lbs per inch (4.5 kg/mm) springs for the rear. cheers

My observations; Front 1. That much toe out on the front is not a good idea, I would aim more for Zero toe unles it has an understeer problem 2. Uneven front camber, 0.5 degree difference is a lot 3. Not enough caster, both sides. More on the left is good, stops the drift to the left caused by the road camber. Check the front caster bushes, when they wear out they leak silicone so easy to spot. Rear 4. That much toe out on the rear is not a good idea, I would aim more for 1 mm to 2 mm toe in unles it has an understeer problem 5. A bit too much rear camber for max traction, between 0.5 and 1.0 degrees is the go. 6. I would have good look at the rear subframe bushes, just make sure the cradle isn't moving around under load. When the standsrd bushes wear out they leak silicone so easy to spot. You didn't mention height, what are the centre of wheel to guard measurements on all 4 corners? If they are too low they handle badly. Anything less than 355 mm front and 345 mm rear is a suspect. Hope that helps cheers

Having been using our R32GTST on the circuit for 3 years, following are my suggestions; 1. Oil cooler is essential, the 2wd sump is much better than the 4wd sump, so it wouldn't be on my list to upgrade in phase 1 2. Pads and fluid are good, I rebuilt the callipers and fitted braided lines, the rubber ones weren't in such good condition. I also went straight to DBA slotted rotors. If you get an MSpec, don't worry about upgrading the callipers they work great. 3. I use 17 X 8 with 35 mm offset all round with 245/40/17 R type tyres (currently Yokohama A032R's) 4. The Jap ones are crap, I use Bilsteins with Eibach coils 5. Personally I think the GTRS is too big for an RB20 on the circuit, they are also expensive for what they are. I used a GCG ball bearing high flowed RB25 turbo on our RB20. The old girl had an untouched 170,000 k's, so I limited it to 225 rwkw, plenty fast enough, was the fastest Skyline at every event we ran. It's not about max power, on the circuit it's the average power and the standard gearbox ratios require a nice spread. 6. I used a Autospeed twin valve boost controller until we upgraded to the Power FC Boost Control Kit. I felt safe at 1.3 bar for the 225 rwkw. The exhaust was turbo back, split dump, 3.25" all the way 7. Power FC, with Datalogit 8. Whiteline bushes everywhere, caster is very important, gets rid of that turn in understeer. Adjustable camber bushes front and rear and rear subframe alignment bushes set for "good allround" 9. Whiteline adjustable, because stabiliser bars are the best bang for buck handling upgrade you can make. 10. Get rid of the HICAS 11 Strut brace on the front is essential, do the rear when you have done everything else I could write a few more pages but that will do for a start, then get out and drive it, run as many events as your can afford. Hope that helps cheers

Owned my RSFour for 2 years (next month). It's the blue one in the Shire with the R33GTR wheels cheers

The full Group Buy price list is on the first page; Nissan Skyline R34GTT 73175 Front Springs $144.00 73176 Rear Springs $144.00 Front Bilstein Shocks $476.00 Rear Bilstein Shocks $476.00 Freight Zero Sub Total $1,240.00 Less extra 5% $62.00 Total $1,178.00 cheers

Plus the front spring and damper rates are totally wrong cheers

They usually have 5 additional circlip grooves added that are 8 mm appart, so that's 48 mm of settings available. If used with the Whiteline springs that will give you height from 370 mm to 322 mm at the front and 360 mm at 312 mm at the rear. I can specify 8 additional circlip grooves if you want, but that is getting way outside the range of the suspension geometry to handle Just changing the height for going to the track is not something I would recommend. You would need to reset the static wheel alignment (camber and toe) if you made any meaningful changes. Most of the fast guys change the stabiliser bar settings at the same time as they are changing to their track tyres. That is the most effective method for changing the blance for track work. Height is a most overrated adjustment and has lots of side issues. cheers

I spoke to the Australia Bilstein agent this morning and they are almost out of R32GTR front shocks, there are a few sets of rears available. The recent production run at Bilstein did not include R32GTR shocks. So for anyone thinking of getting a Group Buy kit for ther R32GTR, I strongly suggest that you get in while the stock lasts. Going on previous experience it was many months before another production run of Skyline shocks was scheduled. Cheers

Bilstein Australia have recently managed to tag onto a small production run of R33GTST and R33GTS shock absorbers that was done for the Japanese Bilstein agent. They also managed to have the valving done to our specifications as per the previous Group Buy sales. These shocks arrived via airfreight today. So there are currently several more sets of R33 Bilsteins available for anyone interested in the Group Buy kit. cheers

Bilstein Australia have recently managed to tag onto a small production run of R34GTT and R34GT shock absorbers that was done for the Japanese Bilstein agent. They also managed to have the valving done to our specifications as per the previous Group Buy sales. These shocks arrived via airfreight today. So there are currently several more sets of R34 Bilsteins available for anyone interested in the Group Buy kit. cheers

PM replied to cheers

Excellent, so what are your spring rates? cheers D

I have most definitely used the drag setting (maximum squat) on a few cars that I have worked on, as well as my own. The usual improvement in 60' times is 0.15 second from the subframe alignment. That setting is the lower left in the instructions (maximum traction). With the small, split rings on top at the front and small, non split rings on the bottom at the rear. cheers

From an enginering perspective the Group Buy kit is designed for Australian conditions and Australian suspension expectations. We demand good handling without excessive ride discomfort. This requires considerable sophistication in the shock absorber valving which I found the Bilsteins delivered. When I was developing the kit for Jamex I tried a number of shock absorbers and the Bilsteins were the best. That's on the street and the track. Judging by the response I believe I have been very successful in achieving the aims of great handling without sacrificing too much ride comfort. The best I can suggest is to have a read of the feedback from the guys on the 6 Group Buy threads. Their satisfaction is the best recommendation. Cheers

If you can't find it there, just do the measurements as per the thread; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=79157 Simply post up the dimension and I will work out the rates for you. cheers D

Not so, you put the small split rings above the subframe at the rear and the large non split below the subframe at the front. This give max antisquat which reduces the rear end grip, making it the ideal setting for drift. It's the bottom left hand drawing in the instructions. Cheer

Hi Brad, they work great at 4,000 rpm, but they don't work so good at idle, in traffice with the aircon on for a 40 degree day. They simply don't move enough water at low rpm. That's so they don't get cavitation at high rpm. Lots of guys forget what "N1" really means, that is quite specifically designed for circuit racing, sustained high rpm for hours. What N1 doesn't mean is "better than standard in all conditions". An example, I had a guy chasing a water temp problem in his Targa GTR while driving/idling between events. Tried a low temp thermostat, all that meant was it wouldn't warm up for ages on cold days. It ran rich as, because the ECU thought it was still cold and fouled plugs. He then threw a PWR 50mm radiator at it, still ran hot engine temperatures. He cheaked the head gasket, swappped sensors and gauges, spent heaps and the problem was still there. In desperation he rang me and I asked the obvious question" N1 water pump?". The answer was "yes" so I suggested trying a standard R33GTR water pump. I took me a week to convince him to at least try it. Bingo, no more engine water temp problems. cheers

I use thick plastic and cable ties cheers

Any Fulcrum branch should be able to get a set of adjustable polyurethane caster bushes from the their HO same day. Give your local branch a call. Cheers PS; if you don't have any joy, PM me and I will get a pair to you on Tuesday.