Sydneykid

Why? They are no better than standard R33GTST parts. Don't let the possible K's of an R34 fool you, they aren't that good, even when new. Most likely, since they are both ~375 mm centre of wheel to guard when new. cheers

Yep cheers

Responses as follows; 1. 700 ps is a doddle for an RB30 with a standard crank and block, do it all day. 2. Add up the total cost, that's why people do it, not one or two people either, more like 30 to 40 new ones every year. The problem is the 2.6l has to rev ~20% higher to make the same power, that means a whole pile of expensive top end stuff is needed. Plus there are drive line ratios to be considered, raise the rpm lower the ratios, that isn't cheap either. 4. You really do need to have a look at a proper 4wd sump adaptor, they are braced back to the engine mounts and triangulated to the gearbox. We have 5 years up on one of those and it's perfect. Inspected and crack tested when doing a clutch change last year. 5. Hardness tests show no difference, specific gravity is the same. I can guess/speculate about the metallurgy until the cows come home, it doesn't show up in real world testing. 6. Yep, all USA made high quality parts. It's still the home of high volume forged engine components, once they do a CAD/CAM of a part, it costs no more to make than the equivalent Chevy part. China/Taiwan/Vietnam etc only get significantly cheaper when there is substantial labour involved. There is very little labour in making a CAD/CAM conrod, it's all about machine costs and raw materials. Harrop Engineering made RB cranks, maybe the boxes they came in were "Made in Japan" but the cranks sure weren't. We buy rods from Carrillo without bolts. Surely just the fact that they come with US made rod bolts makes you go hmmmmmm? They can make forged cranks cost effectively but not high tensile rod bolts, yeh right! How often do the top Jap teams actually run their GTR's down the 1/4? Not very!! Maybe they are afraid of the cost when the pistons/rods/crank let go, because of the poor rod/stroke ratio. Many of the top 10 GTR 1/4 miles were set 5 years or more ago. The cars rarely, if ever, seen again. Why do you think that is? Running costs too high to justify the exposure, perhaps. That's what the RH9 club was all about, do one single 9 sec pass and you qualify, not one 9 sec pass per year. Just one, that's all it took, spend $A250K, stick the car in your showroom and advertise that you build 9 sec GTR's. By my count Theo's car has run more 9's than the top 5 Jap GTR's added together. As for Carrillo using SPS rod bolts, well of course they do, after all they do make them. 7. There are a few other limited edition blocks that are also worthy, but not so easy to get ones hands on. 8. We have RB30's running around in R32's, R33's and R34's with the RB26 cylinder head, inlet and plenum that are an easy fit. Not so easy with the 80 mm cross over pipe and high plenum on an RB25 top end. But I don't think any one would use a standard RB25 plenum/inlet on a "serious power" 3 litre. As I said previously there is far more to what is best for performance and what is best value for money. cheers

WRX wheels, aren't they the wrong stud pattern? cheers

I thought the 0.64 turbine was the GTR one and the GTST was 0.8'ish. Based on what I have seen HKS compressors seem capable of around 10% more than their rated capacity. So my feeling would be that the 420 bhp tops out around 460 bhp. That's 285 rwkw (using the usual 2wd Skylines losses of ~60 kw). It wouldn't take much of a "happy" dyno to read 300 rwkw. cheers

Mine arrived yesterday and they also returned the sample for the DIY cats. Top service, this sets the standard for other Group Buys to stick to. cheers

The other thread was getting interesting and I wanted to continue the flow, so I have copied the last couple across......... OK, so I will change my example to........... 2. It's not a question of WHAT clearances, but CONSISTENT clearances, if OS decide 2/1000 is OK on the mains, then I have no problem with that. What I do have a problem with is is measuring #1 at 1.3, #2 at 2.4, #3 at 1.7 #4 at 1.6 #5 at 2.3 and #6 at 1.6. That's unacceptable. What about the rest of the post, I would be interested in some feedback on the logic? cheers

That's a pretty nice ~25 rwhp gain from 3,000 rpm up to almost 6,000 rpm. Must feel much quicker right in the meat of the commonly used rpm range. Yep, adding some fuel low down is very common. I think it is needed because of the usual efficiency improvements, larger exhaust, air filter, freer flowing cat and intercooler etc. But I reckon the main reason is, Nissan tunes them for minimum emmisions, hence lean as possible where it is safe (off boost). When you are going for the best power, emmissions is no longer a limiting factor. cheers

If he fixes, it can you please make sure you postup what exactly he did. That way everyone will know what is necessary and so many won't fall into the trap. cheers

Suggestions to your questions follow; 1. I guess it depends on what "Jap coilovers" you are comparing to. It will certainly give you better response to input and will be adjustable (via the stabiliser bars). Whereas "Jap coilovers" will give you no adjustment in spring/antiroll rates. 2. Legal height is tricky, what is legal (at 100 mm) with a 2.5" exhaust is totally illegal at 62 mm with a 4" exhaust. That's one of the reasons why I specified the Bilsteins with extra circlip grooves, so you can set the height to make sure it is legal. Best handling height is around 350 mm front and 340 mm rear, a 3" exhaust is usually legal at that height. Hope that helps cheers

You really need to measure it, centre of wheel to guard is the suspension industry standard, before I can offer some specific suggestions. The R33GTR shocks are usually ~25 mm shorter than R33GTS, it does vary from brand to brand though. So if you put a set of 50 mm (2") lower springs with R33GTR shocks in and R33GTST it will lower it 75 mm. That's 380 mm (new standard) minus 75 mm = 305 mm . You have a couple of choices, use some helper/tender springs on top of the main coils, that will lift it around 20 mm. Or change the main coil springs to ones with more free height. Then sell the current ones. cheers

My 20 cents, questions and suggestions; 1. What's "serious power"? 700 BHP, 800 BHP, 1000 BHP, 1200 BHP, More ????? 2. It's not a question of WHAT clearances, but CONSISTENT clearances, if OS decide 2/1000 is OK on the mains, then I have no problem with that. What I do have a problem with is is measuring #1 at 1.93, #2 at 2.04, #3 at 1.97 #4 at 1.96 #5 at 2.03 and #6 at 1.96. That's unacceptable. 3. What's a "reasonable mild GTR" ? Is it one with 250 rwkw, or 300 rwkw or 400 rwkw? A stock standard RB30 block will hold 750 bhp all day. 4. Have you seen the combo 4wd sump adaptor and main bearing support for an RB30? I have no doubt that it would easily hold up the 30 kgs that a 4wd sump and driveshafts weigh. 5. Have you actually cut up an RB30 block and compared it with an RB26 block? There is not as much difference as some people would have you believe. 6. Prices change every day, as more and more Skylines/RB's find their way to the US and the exclusive supply agreements with the Jap brand names run out. I can get an 86 mm forged crank for ~$US2,000, a 200 bhp capable conrod is ~$US110, forged pistons with rings are ~$120 each. It has gotten so a 1200 bhp RB30 botom end shouldn't cost more than ~$10K. 7. (As posted elsewhere) The OS 3 Litre has some advantages and some disadvantages, the most obvious advantage is it uses the N1 RB26 4wd block, arguably the best RB block casting to use in a high boost, high rpm environment. Other than its exorbitant cost, the big disadvantage of the OS 3 litre is it poor stroke / rod length ratio (1.65 to 1). This is because OS used the RB26 (121.5mm) rod with the 86 mm stroker crank. That's why the block (with spacer) is only 18 mm taller than an RB26 and an RB30 is 38 mm taller. The RB30 rod length (152.5 mm) gives a much more favourable rod / stroke ratio of 1.79 to 1. Personally, if I was building a high boost, high rpm, 3 litre, drag engine I would use an N1 block with a 38 mm spacer and 152.5 mm rods. That way I would get the advantages of both without the disadvantages. It would make more torque and rev just as hard with a forged crank, rods etc. Plus I reckon it would cost around half what an OS 3 litre costs. 8. The other RB's with 2.7 and 2.8 litre capacity suffer from similar issues. If they had better rod/stroke ratios they would produce more torque at lower rod, crank and block loadings. Or more torque at the same loadings. There are many factors involved and it can't be simplified down to one block is better than another. cheers

Why? cheers

My Suggestions; 1. What plug gap? Should be 0.8 mm, not 1.1 mm as they usually come. 2. Have you checked the ignition timing? Autos run more initial ignition advance than manuals, it may be necessary to set the timing at 20 degrees instead of 15 degrees. Try both and compare. 3. Have you had a leak down test done? Results? 4. I have never seen a Mines ECU work very well in Australia, get a hold of a standard ECU and compare. You could spend much time and money chasing other things when the ECU is the real problem. 5. Pull the bulb in the cat overheat warning light. Hope that helps cheers

Suggestions follow; 1. Yes, the standard mapping is set for 100 ron fuel, so it is not unusual to see a bit of knock. The defualt maps are there so you can drive the car to the dyno. 2. 2 or 3 degrees is nothing, you won't see much difference under 5 degrees, 10 degrees is not unusual. 3. You can, or add some octane booster or add some fuel. Personally I would just use the throttle to control the knock on the hot days 4. Won't help unless the current filter is blocked, but then it would knock on cold days as wel. 5. That's standard, no problems there The bottom line, get it tuned. cheers

I have heard of the zener diode in the circuit to limit the trigger voltage, but it doesn't cure all of the problems. There is an impedance issue and a linked dwell angle difference from what I have seen. As I said in the previous post you really need someone with a cro to analyse the standard ignition trigger signal and the EManage ignition trigger signal and compare them. Then make all the changes necessary so that coil sees exactly the same signal from the EManage that the standard ECU delivers. As for the missfiring, I still believe it is the ECU R&R mapping causing it, you really need to control the AFM voltage so that the ECU has no reason to move to R&R mapping. This takes carefull tuning of the A/F ratios. Due to the above, the coils are not firing the plugs as strongly as they would, so it's a combination of this and the excessive AFM voltages (both absolute and speed of change) that the ECU is seeing. That's why, when you remove one (of the two), it works OK. cheers

The OS 3 Litre has some advantages and some disadvantages, the most obvious advantage is it uses the N1 RB26 4wd block, arguable the best RB block casting to use in a high boost, high rpm environment. Other than its exorbitant cost, the big disadvantage of the OS 3 litre is it poor stroke / rod length ratio (1.65 to 1). This is because OS used the RB26 (121.5mm) rod with the 86 mm stroker crank. That's why the block is only 18 mm taller than an RB26 and an RB30 is 38 mm taller. The RB30 rod length (152.5 mm) gives a much more favourable rod / stroke ratio of 1.79 to 1. Personally, if I was building a high boost, high rpm, 3 litre, drag engine I would use an N1 block with a 38 mm spacer and 152.5 mm rods. That way I would get the advantages both without the disadvantages. It would make more torque and rev just as hard with a forged crank, rods etc. Plus I reckon it would cost around half what an OS 3 litre costs. cheers

Gearbox out is easiest, just disconnect the tailshafts, no need to remove the front diff. I am sure the guys here would supply parts and instructions, although the standard ATTESA service manual would do the trick. cheers

Same problem, no gearshift logic programmed into the ECU for igniton cut on gearchanges. Motec is the same, so is AEM Bosch etc. I was told by a Nissan engineer that there is more programming code in the auto shift logic than there is in the whole mapping to run the engine. That's why no ECU makers can afford to spend that amount of time/money on programming. They would have to sell the auto ECU's for ten of thousands of dollars and no one would pay. Apexi have a Power FC for some models of auto Toyotas, but their auto ecu to engine ecu relationship is totally different to Nissans. cheers

I tried one of those, not in a Skyline though. It tuned it into a clutchless manual, so I had to lift off the throttle during the gearchanges. You don't get ignition retard/cut on the gearchanges (no logic in the ecu) so you make up for it by lifting off the throttle. Otherwise I assume the same jerky shift and slipping/premature wear problems would occur. With a valve body, belt and clutch pack upgrade and a high stall speed torque converter it would make a great drag gearbox. But not for me, in a road car. cheers

My experiences; 1 & 2. I have driven 4 X R33 GTST autos with aftermarket ecu's, all of them had owners that claimed they were OK. I found them to have clunky gearchanges at low throttle openings, lots of slip into 2nd gear at full power, flairing on 2nd to 3rd gearchange etc. The more power they had the worse it was, harsh gearshifts and premature wear. So far, 3 of the 4 have had gearbox rebuilds, the logical burnt out belts and clutch packs. Of the 4, only one had the auto upgraded with a valve body, it just made the gearchanges even harsher. But it hasn't needed a rebuild, yet. It also had large oil cooler same as mine. 3. One car had a Wolf plug in, it ran the worst. One had a Power FC, it ran the best. Another had a rechipped manual ecu, it ran OK. I can't remember what was in the 4th one, maybe a Microtech or a Link. They all cost pretty much the same (~$1400) all up, including fitting and tuning. 4. After driving these, for the Stagea I decided on a DFA (Apexi SAFC equivalent) to fix the A/F ratios and an Apexi SITC to tune the ignition timing. No loss of gearchange quality and no slipping so far. Hope that helps cheers PS; I strongly suggest that if you find someone who says that their auto is OK with an aftermarket ECU, that you go and test drive it yourself. Jetstar will get you interstate cheaply and save a lot of heartache later.

Nope, the rear shocks on R33GTST's have bushes at the bottom and R34GTT rear shocks have forks at the bottom, like an R33GTR. cheers

Is there a how to guide on changing speedo calbes in R32's? If not, those that have done it care to share any tricks to changing the cable, how to get to the back of the speedo, etc cheers

Changed the plugs lately? chers

Around $400 covers most dyno tunes for Skylines with Power FC's. cheers