Sydneykid

Sorry if I am rattling your cages, I assure that is not my intention. A number of people have pointed out issues with the current Sport Compact regulations to me and asked my technical opinion. One of them sent me a link to this thread and asked me to comment. Having been to a briefing session and attended enough recent events in both a spectating and engineering capacity, it was blatently obvious that there were a few illogical items in the regulations. This is not a matter of what suites one car or not, they are stupid for all cars. Please go about changing/improving the rules your way and I will go about it my way. I know my way works because I have employed it successfully in the past. In the end who cares which way works, all that maters is we have lots more competitors having a good time racing. cheers

We have seen an R34GTT (R34GTT turbine housing) with 275 rwkw. That's on Sydney Optimax. If I remember rightly Bullant (Ian) acheived similar with his R33GTST using a VG30 turbine housing. Using Elf TurboMax I have seen 310 rwkw. cheers

Quick clarificatin, we have been able to duplicate the 265 rwkw (+ or - a couple of rwkw) in non Shoot Out mode. Several times during winter with ambient temperatures in the mid teens and inlet (to the filter) temps just under 20 degrees. It is one of the reasons why I can confidently say that Shoot Out mode doesn't ALWAYS give higher power readings. Well, not on our dyno anyway. cheers

That's a tough one, I am looking out over a ~40 staff car park and I reckon 90% of the cars aren't "fully street legal". Several of them have illegal tyre depth Quite a few have non OEM tow bars Lots have non standard wheels Half a dozen have non OEM roof racks A couple have non genuine mud flaps All the Commondoors have at least one brake light not working A few have non OEM mufflers A couple of the utes have non OEM roll bars Two have non OEM spoilers All of the 4wd's have non OEM bull bars etc etc In fact, if I looked really hard I reckon I could find something not "fully street legal" about almost every car in the car park. That's the real problem, one man's "legal" is another man's "highly modified". cheers

I agree with djr81, 10 kg/mm is ~550 lbs per inch, that's way to high a spring rate for the front. Around 300 lbs per inch is more like it if you do a lot of track work and around 250 lbs if you only do the occasional track day. 7 kg/mm is ~400 lbs per inch, is a rediculous spring rate for the rear. Around 250 lbs per inch is more like it if you do a lot of track work and around 200 lbs if you only do the occasional track day. What you are describing is mid corner understeer, which is a dead give away for too high spring rate as you have sufficient negative camber for that not to be the issue. You also need to be carefull with the ride height, GTR's do not handle very well when they are very low. Particularly at the front, we never go lower than 350 mm centre of wheel to guard. If you have it set lower than that then you need to raise it up. With the front at 350 mm, the rear needs to be no lower than 340 mm. Rasing the rear ride height will help with understeer. For fune tuning the balance (decreasing the understeer) using the adjustable stabiliser bars, more rear antiroll and less front wil help. Once you have it more balanced in its handling, you should consider a torque split controller (Duncan sells them). I wouldn't do it until you were happy with the suspension tune as it will confuse the issue greatly. Cheers

Centreline (Chris) also has corner weight scales. Do a search on "corner weight" "Sydneykid" for a detailed discussion. cheers

This is the "how to" I wrote on fitting a front stabiliser bar to a Stagea, I think it answers your questions; The front looks a little trickier than the rear but it isn't, you just have to remove the undetray first. It has lots of bolts around the front and down the sides, 12 of them I think (10mm socket); Then you need to undo the std links, only where they attach to the bar as the Whiteline bar uses the standard links (14mm ring and 14 mm open ended spanner); Once you have undone the links, then its time for the D brackets, there is a bolt at the front (14mm socket); And you get at the nut at the rear (14 mm socket and medium extension), it is a bit hidden up above the radius rod bush; This is comparison of the bars, note the links are still on the Stagea Once again you simply reverse the process for fitting the Whiteline bar, this one I put on the highest rate (hole furthest in on the arm). Don't forget to grease inside the polyurethane D bushes, they touch metal as well. Put the undertray back on and you are finished. Hope that helps cheers

Hi Ed, check out the Group Buy thread on the Whiteline/Bilstein suspension for your model of Skyline. The information you need (inc prices) should be there. If you need more details please just ask. cheers

Thanks to Burns we have identified what the problem is. Some kits were sent out with 83139 springs instead of 83159. The 83159's are in stock at Whiteline, so the turn around will be quick. PM me and I will arrange for a replacement set (83159) to be sent out and the 83139's picked up and returned. Sorry, I appologise for the incorrect supply. cheers

No difference between S1 and S2 springs that I have seen. What "measurements" do you want? The height of the car with standard coils in it? Or the dimensions of the coils themselves? You can't tell how much a spring will lower a car by its free height, you need to know the spring rates as well. A lowering spring is usually higher in rate, so the weight of the car doesn't compress it as far. cheers

Sits on top of each spark plug and supplies electricity to make it spark. cheers

For $260 I will take one ready to bolt onto a 3" dump pipe and 3" exhaust. I have a used compliance cat that I can send to Magic to copy if necessary. It has warped flanges front and rear as they were cut from too thin metal, but it will do the job as a master. Cheers

Hi Adrian, I feel very insulted. I have been drag racing as far back as the "Brickyards" and Castlereagh. I have at least one shelf of drag racing trophies (driver and car owner) in amongst 10 odd shelves of circuit racing. These days circuit racing consumes my time, but I am far from ignorant about drag racing. I was a scrutineer for some time, as well as competing, driving and engineering. In the late '70's I even drove at the old Pomona Raceway in the US, using a borrowed chassis and one of my own Chevy engines that I sold when the event finished. Enough nostalgia........................ If one guy puts in one rule change submission, it doesn't get the same attention as if 20 guys put in 20 rule change submissions. That's the way politics works and this is all about lobbying, not logic. cheers

Thanks for the extra bits, it now works perfectly. cheers

Nope, the centre of wheel to guard measuremtns are the same regardless of what diameter wheels are used. That's why we use that as the reference measurement in all cases. cheers

E-Manage has problems with the RB ignition systems. Quite a few R33GTST's and R34GTT's have blown ignitors/coils trying to tune via E-Manage. The E-Manage logic also has problems with the autotrans retard on gearchange. Plus they cost twice as much as they should for what they do. With the SAFC and the SITC you have the best system of piggy backs around. cheers

It would seem that you have a problem that is causing the brake squeel but it isn't the brakes themselves. Since you have changed pads and rotors, had the rotors machined etc. Several times by the sound of it. Plus you are unique, I have not had a Skyline that I can't fix the brakes with the usualy service list (as previously posted). Whatever the problem is, changing the callipers won't fix it, they are not the cause. You must be doing something unusual, or live somewhere that the local conditions are causing it or maybe your car has some parts that are actually the reason (not the brakes themselves). From what I have read, you do some work and the squeel is not there for some days. Then it comes back, this is not normal and it is going to take some extra effort to find. Let me try some left field things; 1. What you you wash your wheels with? Don't laugh, I had a neighbour that washed his wheels with dishwashing liquid and his brakes would scream for days after it. 2. Do you live near the ocean? Or some large body of water? 3. Do you drive on dirt roads? Whereabouts are you actually located? 4. Have you checked the wheel bearings? If they are loose or dry (no grease) they will cause the disc to vibrate (at high frequency). 5. My uncle's brakes used to always squeel, because he was a whimpy braker, they never had any heat into them. So they accumulated gases that didn't get burnt off. I would take it for a drive for half an hour for him once every few months and the scream would be gone. (He reckoned I was a genius brake mechanic). Have you tried hammering the crap out them. Drive around with your left foot on the brake pedal for a few k's. Get them so hot you can smell them. Smoke is good. 6. Wheel nut torque, I hope you are not overtightening the wheel nuts. That can cause the rotors to warp eventually. 7. Have you tried borrowing some wheels? When the brakes are squeeling consistently, swap the wheels over and see if it stops. 8. When the brakes have been squeeling consistently for a couple of days, try hosing out one of the front wheels, in the morning before you go anywhere. Give it a good flush around, splash out any loose dust etc. 9. Do the pads wear flat? If the calliper has a sticky piston it will wear the pads unevenly, they will be tapered away from the that piston. A frozen piston makes the pad chatter, but a lazy one can make it squeel. Let me know the progress cheers

I think you missed the point, my R32GTST is all STANDARD Nissan as far as the body is concerned. No lightweight panels, no carbon fibre, it doesn't even have forged wheels. To run in its most logical class I would have to add around 100 kgs of lead. That's a BIG modification, arguably an unsafe modification. As for applying for a rule change, it has been my experience that if one person asks, nothing happens. Even if the request is totally sound and very logical. But if you gather support and 20 people ask, the response is totally different. Thats's why I posted, not to whinge, but to judge the level of support. Looking at the response I woud say there is a lot of support for the passengers seat being OK if it is a standard one. There is understanding about the 2wd weight rule being somewhat unfair, but the support is directly related to the weight of the car people have. So the R32GTST guys are not happy, the R33GTST guys are OK and the Supra guys are out buying carbon fibre everything to try and get down to the limit. That's when natural evolution kicks in, the Supra guys stop trying (too expensive, illegal for road use etc) and the R32GTST guys won't bother (no one wants to add weight to their car). So you will end up with a class full of R33GTST's and I don't think that's what is required. cheers PS; I think an R32GTST is more "grass roots" than the other cars that this class seems to fit.

Shoot if I wanted to do that I would run the Stagea, being auto and 4wd it would run the same time all day to within a few hundredths of a second. It wouldn't have any problem with the weight limit. :lol: :lol: :lol: cheers

So I have to pay ANDRA to protest to ANDRA about ANDRA's rules? Sounds like a waste of time and money to me. Especially when it is only simple logic we are talking about. BTW does anyone have a soft copy of the full regs (PDF etc)? It pisses me off having to retype the printed version all the time. cheers

I have run a Bosch 044 at 13.8 volts with a standard FPR on a number of cars. That's double the flow of a standard GTR pump at the standard 11.2 volts. NONE of them had more than the standard fuel pressure of 36-38 psi. The exit orifice from the standard FPR is ~6.5mm, compared to the 7.5mm outlet orifice of an 044 pump. The piston in the FPR moves ~10mm so that is not an issue either. If you are getting a true 44 psi in the rail at idle, with the standard FPR and the vacuum line disconnected, then something is wrong. There is a blockage or some other restriction in the return system (inc the FPR) to the tank. This will give unpredictable results and is therefore very dangerous. I strongly suggest that you find out what the problem is and fix it. cheers

The 2 days was a fair bit my fault, I dropped it off on my way to work on a Friday. I had to drop it off, keys under the door, before they opened to make it to work on time. Then I couldn't get to the exhaust shop after work in time before they closed. So I had to go back the next day, Saturday, to pick it up. Stuff like that happens, that's why ready to fit DIY would be great, even if it costs $few more. it's not that hard, all of the Skylines/Stageas I have seen use the same length cat with the same flanges. cheers

Rule enforcement is a bit hard when the rules themselves are obviously STUPID. A standard R322GTST would have to carry ballast to make the minimum weight, that's REDICULOUS. While an R32GTR could loose 100+kgs and still pass the minimum. That's makes NO SENSE. Either the 2wd minimum weight limit is too high, or the 4wd weight limit is too low. The seat thing puzzles me almost as much. I have to change the driver's seat because of the TS/ET rules. But why the hell can't I run a standard passengers seat? I can understand them not wanting me to run a plastic/fantastic passenger seat, but not being able to run a STANDARD passengers seat is LUDICROUS. Who is the guy to talk to about this CRAP. Will he listen to logic? Or will it take 20 of us to show him the IDIOUSY of the regs as they stand at the moment. Cheers

I am in, I need another one. But this time I want it to come with the flanges and reducers (to 3") welded on so that I can just bolt it on the car myself. Can you please find out how much it will cost to make it bolt on ie; how much of the $90 is for fitting it to the car. It was a pain last time leaving the car at the exhaust shop for 2 days while they welded on the flanges. It cost me more in public transport costs and my lost time than the fitting cost. cheers

I must be reading these regs incorrectly; SPORT RWD – DYO - CLASS REGULATIONS Class Designations: SRWD followed by driver’s competition number. Sport Rear Wheel Drive is designed for full-bodied, street type cars using all wheel drive, rear wheel drive and street orientated tyres. Minimum Weights: 2 Rotor – 2300 pounds/ 1045kg 4 Cylinder RWD – 2300 pounds/ 1045kg 4 Cylinder AWD – 2400 pounds/ 1090kg 6 Cylinder RWD – 3100 pounds/ 1409kg 6 Cylinder AWD – 3200 pounds/ 1454kg Non-original OEM transmission permitted (e.g. Power glide in a Supra), but will be assigned a 150 pound penalty All weights include driver, verified after the run. This means my R32GTST that currently weighs 1180 kgs with roll cage (no lightweight panels, just no air con or rear seats etc) would have to carry ~100 kgs of lead to meet the minimum weight. Or am I reading it wrong? Then there is the problem of only 45kgs extra for AWD, a GTR transfer case, front tailshaft, diff etc weigh a heap more than 45kgs. How come they get a weight reduction from standard and the 2wd Skylines get a handicap? Or am I reading that wrong as well? cheers