Sydneykid

It depends on the wall thickness of the tube. Skyline Bilsteins are monotube design and they are engineered to have circlip grooves to retain the lower spring seats, so they have no problems. I wouldn't want to machine a twin tube KYB for example, I suspect the wall thickness wouldn't take a circlip groove. cheers

You can keep the standard springs, the rates are a pretty good compromise. Then use the adjustable circlip grooves on the Bilsteins to achieve the desired height. Mine was like that for some months until I engineered the Whiteline springs, it was quite good handling and ride. Be aware that there is a limit as to how low you can go with the standard springs, most particularly the rear as the bottom spring seat will touch the wheel. Refer to StageZilla's pictures. cheers

I definitely want a drivers side wind deflector, I wil take both if necessary, a spare passengers side won't go astray. But if someone wants a passengers side one, I will separate. cheers

Do the Ohlins have the R32GTR standard style of bottom spring seat? Or do they have a parrallel race coil style of seat? The Whiteline springs used in the Group Buy kit are designed to fit the standard spring seats (top and bottom). I can get Eibach race coils in similar rates if the Ohlins have race coil style top and bottom spring seats. Obviously there is a price difference, so I will need to know before I can PM you a confirmed price. cheers

Suggestions to your questions follow; 1. Yep 2. Yep, if you find, say, 2/2 is too little antiroll and 3/3 is too much, then try 2/3 3. Camber is checked using a camber gauge, basically a spirit level that indicates how far from verticle the wheel is when the steering is pointing straight ahead. Castor is a little more tricky as it is a measure of the camber change when the wheel is turned (usually 20 degrees). So you need a camber gauge and a degree gauge to measure it. Hope that clarifies cheers

75/7.5/12 = 310 lbs per inch 75/7.5/11 = 225 lbs per inch cheers

A comparison between an R30 strut front end and a double wishbone Skyline is not particularly relevant. They are quite different animals. My suggestion would be to use adjustable stabiliser bars rather than excessively high spring rates. That way you can tune the car for road or drift by adjusting the antiroll rates, much easier than changing springs and shocks. This is a link to the R32GTST Group Buy, I believe it should answer most of your questions. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85591 If you should require additional clarification please just ask. cheers

I have a full set (front and rear) of Nissan (not Brembo) R32GTR callipers that have recently been fully serviced, let me know via PM if you are interested. cheers

The rear bump stops can not be trimmed from the bottom as the dust cover would fall off. So, as you can see from the above, it is trimmed from the top, the same as the front bump stop. If you are targetting 340 mm (or higher) then they don't need trimming at all. This is a picture of the 83139/Bilstein installed in mine; In comparison your front spring doesn't look right, the 83159 is a normal Whiteline spring for an R33GTR and the lower spring seat on the Bilstein is also the normal part number for an R33GTR. So they shoul fit together exactly as per the standard spring and standard shock, plus or minus a cfew mm for extra wire dimensions. Maybe check a few things; The Whiteline front spring part number should be on the white tag, 23159. The Bilstein lower spring seat part number is cast into it, E4 FT2-2003A01 The Whitleine coil should have a top ID of ~100 mm The Whitleine coil should have a bottom ID of ~ 70 mm Check those and let me know if you have different part numbers and/or dimensions. It has happened (not very often) that the wrong springs have been packed in the box, so the part numbers tag is the first place I would start. Hope that was of some help cheers

They are the same as R33GTST S2, they have the ignitor built into the coils ie; no separate ignitor box on the rear of the plug cover. cheers

The usual painful com port problems, I never have any joy with them. Have to restart the laptop every time I try something, so time consuming. Plus the batery is now flat. I can't get the Calumsult to see the ECU. Just to check that the interface is working OK, I have; Solid red LED Bright yellow LED until engine is running, then it goes dull, with an accasional flash Green flashes at all times when the engine is running cheers

The laptop already uses com4 for something else, how do I make the calmsult look at com5 Cheers Matt

OK, who's a computer wiz that can quickly tell me how to get this thing to work with a laptop that has no serial ports. I have a USB to serial cable, but I can't find where to tell the latop that I want the USB to see/emulate/ look like/be com port 4. cheers

From what I have read this thread is going around in circles, there area few items of logic being missed; 1. rmahnovetsky wants to make 240 rwkw with standard injectors, that’s possible but the fuel pressure required would be around 55 psi (above boost). A Bosch 044 (or similar rated at 73.5 psi would be OK. A Walbro wouldn’t handle the pressure for very long, not enough electric motor torque. That’s a ~$400 cost. 2. A standard turbo isn’t going to make 240 rwkw, move on from that thinking 3. Making 240 rwkw with 14 psi, regardless of the turbo, is going to be very difficult with the limited mods listed. More like 19 to 20 psi, going on our past experiences 4. To run 55 psi + 19 psi = 73 psi rail pressure he is going to need a serious upgrade in hoses and fittings. I personally wouldn’t be using clamp on hoses, screw fittings would be my choice. Count on spending around $300 on fittings, hose and welding. 5. A fairly decent adj FPR is going to be needed to accurately control that sort of fuel pressure. I would allow $250 -$300 including mounting and hose fittings (remember it has to hold 73 psi from the fuel rail to the FPR). 6. The SAFC reduces the voltage that the ECU sees, this means less fuel is squirted. But it also means that more ignition advance is used. It is always a compromise, between A/F ratios and pre-ignition, you go round in tuning circles for along time. And that’s at 200 rwkw and 1 bar using a high flow turbo. I can’t imagine how hard it is going to be at 240 rwkw and 1.3 bar. Better budget a whole day on the dyno for tuning, that’s $1,000 or so. So let’s add it up; $400 + $300 + $300 + $1,000 = $2,000 Then compare that with the alternative, GTR fuel pump $150, SITC $200, SARD injectors $900 and a normal SITC/SAFC dyno tune $300. $150 + $200 + $900 + $300 = $1,550 Even if some of the numbers are a little rubbery, the fact is the proposed cheap method is in fact no cheaper than the more common route. Plus it is damn site more dangerous and difficult. Maybe that’s why no one bothers, plenty have tried and found out the hard way that the common way is the best way. Perhaps that’s why it is so common. cheers

My 20 cents worth; Simplistially valved small bore, Japanese shock designed for billiard table smooth roads. Fitted with far too high spring rates for Australian conditions. Harsh ride and poor traction. There are far better shocks and more suitable spring rates available at lower prices, check out the Group Buy thread for your particular Skyline model. Cheers

Check the shocks for oil leaks around the top seal, usually a good indicator for dud shocks. cheers

Hi Ken, does the price drop if we buy multiple kits? Packing multiples all together should be a lot easier. cheers

Hi Chris, grab a tape measure and check the centre of wheel to guard measurements. That will tell you whether it is a height problem or not. All springs settle a little after a few days, usually around 5mm. I always recommend a height around 355 mm front and 345 mm rear. Have a quick look around and see if you can find where the tyre is touching, you may be able to fix it with a little tweak of the camber. On the Stagea I have to run 1/2 degree more than I would really like to make sure the tyres (R33GTR wheels) clear the guards whne i have a load in it. Let me know how you get on cheers

This is the style of pipework we use a lot on RB25's when using a cross flow (non return) style of intercooler. We have seen 265 rwkw using this pipework, which is getting close to my rule of thunmb limit for an internally standard RB25DET (ie; 450 bhp) This is a Zeni Tani built RB25DET with similar pipework and a high mount turbo, before it left Japan it made 500 ps. So there is plenty of flow in the standard RB25DET plenum and inlet manifold. cheers PS; all of these designs are based on the Gibson R31 GTSR, which was the first I had seen and it obviously worked.

That's what Group Buys are all about, value for money. cheers PS; tell your dad he needs to buy better spanners for you to use :lol:

Well done Brad. For the other guys, please remember that Brad has extra, extra grooves, for achieving show height, not driving around height. cheers