Sydneykid

PM Sent cheers

We use The Magman (9709 2686) for the race car wheels cheers PS; he is not called the Magman because he fixes mag wheels, it's because he likes a chat.

Me too cheers

Very interesting, need a bit more information. What are the centre of wheel to guard measurements? I have played around extensively with our Stagea and this is what is needed for each height increment; Standard (100,000 k's) height is 385/375 mm front/rear 360/350 mm needs only the standard rear camber adjusters 350/340 mm needs 1 front camber kit and 1 rear camber kit 340/330 mm needs I front camber kit and 2 rear camber kits That is to get the front to 1.0 to 1.5 degrees negative and the rear 0.5 to 1.0 degrees negative. The 0.5 degrees tolerance is because every car is different. Cheers

Why is it necessary, because standard turbos are plain bearing and the Garrett 2560R's are ball bearing. Plain bearing turbos rely on the oil for lubrication and pressure plus cooling. Ball bearing turbos only use the oil for lubrication. So they need reduced flow and pressure. Usually Garrett turbos come with flow restrictors standard. Check yours before you start trying to buy them, as they may already have them. cheers

Genuine KKK turbos are made in Germany and they are plain bearing (not ball bearing) and oil (not water) cooled. Blitz sell them under their brand name in Japan. cheers

I have not come accross any different ones. There may be, but I have never seen one. Nope, when you remove the HICAS the standard input to the cooler goes with it. That's why you have to reroute the input to the cooler. The output from the cooler always goes back into the power steering fluid reservoir, so no change there. But then you have no power steering cooler, which may be OK for some, but not for others. cheers

Hi Brendan, stabiliser bars are made to order, which takes about 4-5 working days. Usually they have springs in stock, but I found it hard to guess the Group Buy volumes and mix and they ran out of a few part numbers. Had to wait for the production cycle to go around, usually 3-4 weeks, but this time ended up 6 weeks. cheers

Yep, most of the ecu's don't have lights, I kinda figured you wouldn't have a GTR dash in there for the "Check Engine" light to flash codes for you. That's one of the prices you pay for an engine swap. Hence why I suggested the Consult interfaces. Pin #32 is the output from the ECU to the dash warning light, so try wiring a 12 volt 1 watt globe there, if you can't wait for a Consult to arrive. cheers

Yep, Skyline and Stagea springs are due today, just waiting on the comfirmation of exactly what part numbers. I will PM all of the guys with outstanding orders as soon as I know. Cheers

I don't know how many times I have posted this up, maybe we should make it a sticky.......... The R32 power steering pump has 2 stages. The front stage works the front power steering rack, leave it alone when removing the HICAS. It will function exactly as is intended. After you have removed all of the HICAS stuff, the rear stage is very usefull for pumping power steering fluid through the standard power steering cooler. All you do is use a short piece of hose (not high pressure) and 2 clamps to join the ouput of the pump up to the cooler. Takes about 2 minutes. This is much simpler and more effective than rerouting the front hoses so the returning fluid (not under pressure) goes through the cooler. I have done this on 10 or so R32's over the years, never ever had a problem. The pump works fine and the power steering fluid doesn't overheat. On the race cars we use auto tranmission coolers on the power steering fluid (instead of the standard loop of aluminium pipe) as they get quite hot in a racing environment. This is not necessary on a road car, the standard loop does the job. Do a search if you want more details. cheers

The reality here is you most likely have a whole host of sensor/wiring problems. Limp home means nothing more than 2,500 rpm. In fact "limp home" is a bit of an overstatement, more like "limp to the side" of the road". The best diagnostic tool I have is the Consult interface, I guess that comes from years of reliance on the Power FC Commander. They let you see, in real time, the inputs from the sensors which makes fault finding so much easier. There are a number of them available on the forum; I just ordered one of these, I like making up kits http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=92853 If you don't want to make up a kit, I have used one of these a number of times and they work great; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...2617&hl=consult I haven't used on of these, but plenty of guys have; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=92105 Without one of these you are going to spend hours with a multimetre chasing around the wiring looking for an answer. A Consult interface will help you find it in minutes. Hope that was of some help cheers

Group Buy is still open for this model, there are 4 sets left. cheers

It was bit late and after a long day when I wrote the previous post, maybe it was a bit blunt. I appologise if it came accross as harsh, I didn't mean it to. I will try my best to answer your questions; Yes, Whiteline use Bilstein shocks for Skylines As far as I know they are not revalved Lately they haven't been adding extra circlip grooves either As well as the revalving/extra grooves I have also specified different adjustment points on the adjustable stabiliser bars. So they start off as a standard Whiteline part number but with extra adjustment capability added during manufacture. This adds a bit of cost for Jamex, but it works so that they fit in with the rest of the kit, both parts and settings. Other than that all of the other parts are standard Whiteline, although I have specified different settings based on my experiences with the various Skyline models. I have tried to make the Group Buy as transparent as I can, I could have used secret codes to disguise the real part numbers, but the reality is the guys have a right to know what they are getting. Whiteline tell me that since the Group Buy started they have been getting a number of orders for Skyline parts (ones that are in the kit) that they don't normally sell. That tells me the Group Buy is working in that it is making people aware of the need for the complete approach to suspension. Not the simplistic "stick a set of Jap coil overs in and she'll be right mate" approach. Hope that answered your questions. cheers

I thought that $cost may be the problem, but I see EManages on Skylines and they cost similar to the Xede. Is it because it isn't Japanese? cheers

Plenty of places are cheap, but you can trust the guys at Centreline, they know their stuff. cheers

If you have adjustable shock valving, then you can soften the shocks. That may help, maybe even enough so that you are happy. But based on other people's experience, that is most unlikely. The only way to soften the spring rate is to buy lower rate springs. Springs cost around $100 each, so allow $400 (plus labour if you can't DIY) to swap to lower rate springs. The alternative is to sell your Teins and take advantage of the Group Buy. The 4 X Bilsteins and 4 X Whiteline springs will cost around $1100. You might be able to sell the Teins for $700 So you might still only spend $400 (plus labour if you can't DIY) but you will get new, superior engineered (for Australian conditions) shocks and springs. Hope that helps cheers PS; if you want to know what your current spring rates are, go to this thread and post up the dimensions and I will work out what the spring rates are for you http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=79157

Suggestions follow; Problem #1. My guess is you have a wiring error, test it out by placing a multimeter across the MAP sensor output. You should see consistent and linear voltage changes as the boost changes. If not, you have the earth/active/sensor wires mixed up. Problem #2. Most likely related to problem #1. Just to be sure I would check the vacuum hose connections carefully, you may have the in and outs crosssed over. The Apexi solenoid is a normally closed style, no voltage = closed vent). Apply 12 volts and make sure that when you blow in the fittings, the solenoid opens the bypass vent. Hope that helps cheers

Obviously if the high flow cat melted, it wasn't much of a high flow. cheers

Standard coils are designed to fire once per ignition cycle. Whilst CDI fires multiple times per ignition cycle. Hence you should use a coil designed to fire multiple times per ignition cycle, otherwise you are wasting a good deal of the CDI benefit. Mercury outboard coils are designed to be used with CDI, that's what they have standard. cheers

I have always wondered why Xedes are not more popular for use on Skylines. Theer technical specs look impressive. They pop up on every other Foulcan Tubbo, but I can't say as I have everr seen one on a Skyline. Does anyone have any idea why this may be the case? Is it simply lack of promotion to Skyline owners? Or is there some technical deficiency? Maybe the price? cheers

we.....our.......Xede Oh goody, someone who knows about Xede's. I feel a new thread coming on. cheers

From what I have heard (and seen in the results) the T04Z utilises a much later generation of aerodynamics. So much so that, when HKS asked for upgrading potential for their T04Z version, the Garret enginers laughed at them. I am busting to find a compressor map for a T04Z, I have a rule that says "don't use a turbo until you have checked out the compressor map" to make sure it does what I want. I don't want to break one of my own rules. cheers

Duncan, I never said...........well, you know what I never said. The advantage I have found (in the classes where it is legal) is on a cold day you can not get the tyres up to full operating temperature in half a lap warm up. That's all you really get, particualry if the guys in front of you don't want you to warm up your tyres. The reverse logic applies on a hot day, late in the race. The nitrogen doesn't increase pressure as much, so you don't have to allow as much for the pressure increase. An example of a tyre with a best pressure of 35 psi in an 8 lap race when filled with ambient air; Out of the pits = 27 psi End of warm up lap = 30 psi End of lap 1 = 33 psi End of lap 2 = 34 psi End of lap 3 = 34 psi End of lap 4 = 35 psi End of lap 5 = 35 psi End of lap 6 = 36 psi End of lap 7 = 37 psi End of lap 8 = 38 psi After cool down lap = 35 psi Compared to a tyre with a best pressure of 35 psi in an 8 lap race when filled with 100% nitrogen; Out of the pits = 31 psi End of warm up lap = 33 psi End of lap 1 = 35 psi End of lap 2 = 35 psi End of lap 3 = 35 psi End of lap 4 = 35 psi End of lap 5 = 35 psi End of lap 6 = 36 psi End of lap 7 = 36 psi End of lap 8 = 36 psi After cool down lap = 35 psi The big winners are lap 1, lap 2, lap 7 and lap 8. Faster at the start of the race, as the tyre is at best pressure earlier because you can leave the pits at a higher pressure. Plus faster at the end of the race as the tyre is not overheating due to excessive pressure, because when it overheats it generates even more pressure. If you want an extreme example of this, listen to the drivers comments at Bathurst about how the car comes good during the session. During the day they constantly played around with tyre pressures, 1 psi here and 1 psi there, makes all the difference. Especailly important in the last session for the sprint to the flag. I must be a caring sharing guy to give away secrets like that............... :lol: cheers

Glad to hear that it is working. Please post up your results and thoughts after a few days of use. cheers