Sydneykid

The R33GTR 17 X 9 X 30 with 245/40/17's clears the standard guards with the ride height at at 340 mm front and 330 mm rear. The standard wheels were 16 X 6.5 with 225/50/16's The PCD is the usual Skyline 5 X 114.5 cheers

So you can drive around with the hatch open without stuff falling out :lol:

All coil spring material (spring steel) is made to one of the 2 world wide standards, simplistically hot or cold winding. The end result (ie; the spring rate) is very similar once the finished product is normalised, tempered and or shot/peened. I have tested over a thousand coil springs in the course of business and the formula is very accurate. Most certainly accurate enough for this purpose. As for the spring rates used in Japan, the Japanese have no real history of stabiliser bar upgrades. Not to the extent that we do with the KMac and Selbys history. Plus they seem to have no grasp of the art of shock absorber tuning like the Eurpopeans have. Add that to their bolt on mentality (good mechanics charge like brain surgeons) and it easy to understand why they rely excessively on spring rates to achieve what could be much better achieved usng other more sophisticated methods. Since they all do it, they have no basis of comparison to realise that what they are doing is technically deficient. If drifting ever matures to the world stage they will quickly find that simplistically locking the suspension with rediculously high spring rates isn't a winning formula. That said, they do a pretty god job with what they have. there is some skill that's for sure. cheers

Oh, if only it were that simple, but it isn't. The best method I have found is to look at what similar models, with similar suspension layouts have with those mechanicals. That gives you a starting point, then you look at what you are going to use the car for and calculate the upgrades from there. Most people just stick the mechanicals in and see what they end up with. THne talk to a suspesnion expert. Since you are looking at a marginally lighter engine this would be my suggestion in your case. If you were looking at a substantailly heavier engine you might not be able to do that, the nose would simply drag on the ground. Bottom line, I wouldn't worry about it until you have worked out exactly what it is you are going to do. If it is a lighter or similar weight conversion, then just get on with it. Hope that helps cheers

90-12-12 = 66 X 12 X 5 = 790 lbs per inch 90-12-12 = 66 X 12 X 7.2 = 460 lbs per inch Oh my.............. cheers

Yes, safety is important, you should get one complete Group Buy suspension kit for your car immediately. cheers

The standard adjuster is 0.3 degrees, the outer upper adjuster is almost 1.0 degree, the inner upper adjuster is 0.75 degrees. The recommended settings are 0.5 to 1.0 degrees. So if you have 3.5 degrees now you should be able to get it withing the recommended range. If you need more adjustment than that, then I STRONGLY suggest you raise it up to a more sensible height. It must be below 320 mm centre of wheel to guard, which is far too low for good handling or power. As well as the adjustment, there is also the lower compliance of the polyurethane bushes to consider. This means less dynamic camber change (under load) which can add another 1.5 to 2.5 degrees to the static readings with the old/well used standard bushes. Most of this (dynamic camber change) is eliminated with the new polyurethane bushes. Hope that answered your question. cheers

Hi David, I really have no idea how much you can sell the Teins for, some guys like the hard ride and will pay $good for it. Try advertising them in the For Sale forum or on Ebay, I guarantee that you will sell them, I just don't know for how much. Stabilser bars should control roll, not springs. That's why the Teins are so hard, they try to do everything with the spring rate. I can assure you that you won't get a better handling/ride than the Group Buy for anywhere near the cost of the kit. The Group Buy price for 4 springs, 4 shocks and 2 pairs of bump stops and dust covers is $1487.80 with free freight and the extra 5% discount for orders over $1K. The prices of the full kit are in the first post on this thread. Hope that was of some help cheers

These kits are mostly sold in Japan, so they have stupid Japanese spring rates to suit that market's demands. I have specified the spring rates for this Group Buy, they are NOT the off the shelf rates from Bilstein. Pop over to the suspension thread (http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=79157) and post up the spring dimensions and I will work out the spring rates for you. From what I can tell the Bilstein springs are made by Eibach in Germany or Tevemen in Holland, Bilstein do not have a cold spring winding machine themselves. I can't see any problems arrising from you using Eibachs of a more suitable (Australian) rate. The adjusters on the Bilsteins easily have a big enough window to handle the lower spring rate. PM me for more details. Cheers

There is some logic in the thinking that the pedal (in a car that is a few years old) has most likely never been "to the floor". So it may have bad shit in that part of the travel that has never been used. My thinking is that it is best to find out safely in my garage while bleeding, than out on the track (or the raod) when the pedal goes to the floor. cheers

Hi Cubes, glad to see you finally did the wiring upgrade, it's a very worthwhile investment in time and not a lot of money. You are suffering from "excessive size pump syndrome", because the 044 flows a bit over 360 litres per hour at 13.8 volts. This means every minute 6 litres of fuel is being pumped to the engine. But if it is idling or crawling along in traffic using say 1/10 of litre per minute, 5.9 litres goes back to the tank every minute. If you have say 20 litres in the tank (bit over a 1/4 on the guage), that means the 20 litres takes a bit over 3 minutes for all of it to go to the engine and back. While it is in the engine bay it gets heated up, then it goes around again and gets heated some more. After a 15 minute slow drive with little or no airflow, the engine bay gets up around 100 degrees and so does the fuel. I have seen fuel boil in the tank .............. To be continued

I built an RB30/RB25DE hybrid over 5 years ago using all standard components, no aftermarket parts at all. It made 475 bhp on the engine dyno, it has done over 70,000 k's without one single problem using the standard ECU chipped. The secret is tuning, knowing the limits and sticking to them. Most problems come from poor tuning and wanting "just a little bit more". You are going a few steps above that, but the same rules apply. Short comments on parts selction; Wiseco pistons are OK, why are you going 20/100 over? If the block doesn't need it? Never used Parr rods so can't comment, forged rods don't need aftermarket shotpeening, the shot just bounces off and does nothing. Head gasket is important, do some research Garret 35/40 is an OK choice as long as it meets your power and response targets. What are they? Custom high mount exhaust manifold, some are good, some are crap, make sure you get a good one. Personally I would NEVER use a Mictrotech on an RB, they are not suited. We use Microtechs on the RX7's, I wouldn't use anything else. But not on an RB, you will have all sorts of issues that will cost you time and money fixing. I would do some more research. Hope that helps cheers PS, we have since built over 20 X RB30DET's, one is up to 950 bhp.

After a couple of hours of soldering and assembly and the LD02 display is finished; I was going to make up the cables after I finished the display, but I can't. I ordered and paid for a 4m cable, that connects the lambda sensor to the WB2A1. But when I checked it a 2.6 metre cable was supplied. This is a good chance to check out Tech Edge support and problem recovery. Email sent 3.30 pm Saturday. cheers

You won't need an AFPR, the injector flow rate of 1,000 cc's is measured at standard fuel pressure (36-38 psi), that's above boost. eg 38psi fuel pressure + 20 psi boost = 58 psi. Bosch pump's flow is rated at 73.5 psi. The quick (in a 6 cylinder) calcs; 1000 cc's = 1,000 bhp - 115 bhp for losses (the most I have ever seen in a GTR) = 885 4whp (660 4wkw). You have penty of injector overhead, almost 200 bhp of it. The only reason you might want to upgrade the FPR is accuracy of holding the fuel pressure at higher boost levels. Nothing to do with flow regulation or pushing injectors to higher than their rated flow. cheers

If the tuner has done his job properly that shouldn't be the case. Boost is irrelevant, he is tuning to airflow as the primary load source, with rpm as the secondaary reference. Turn the boost down and the airflow decreases at the same rpm, which should be reflected in the mapping (ie; the load points used). If the tuner has mapped the load points correctly then no problems, power is maximised. cheers

I can't speak about the Autronic CDI, but we have used the Motec ECU and CDI on a few cars. Firstly I should say that we don't use the Motec CDI with standard coils (or Spitfires for that matter). CDI fires multiple times per ignition cycle and so it needs a coil that has a faster recovery time than the more normal one fire per ignition cycle. So we use Mercury outboard coils as they are designed for use with CDI. I believe this is the same system that Wilson and/or Munro are using. What we have found is; 1. The plugs (copper NGK's) last a lot longer before they start to break down. 2. There is lees unburnt fuel in the oil samples 3. There is less carbon deposits in the combustion chamber 4. The exhaust gas temperature is lower, ~75 degrees is not unusual 5. The exhaust valves are not showing as much signs of distress, so we have extended their service life 6. The hot start is much easier, without the CDI at times it would take a few cranks to start 7. We picked up around 55 ft lbs of torque on the engine dyno at 5,500 rpm, with good increases from 3,000 rpm to 8,000 rpm 8. Obviously this translates to horsepower increases, around 40 bhp in most spots over 5,250 rpm. 9. None of this happened wthout tuning, we were able to advance the ignition a little without detonation, we were able to increase the fuel (Elf Turbo Max) without changes in A/F ratios, we were able to hold the boost level, but increase the airflow. These are all indicators of more complete combustion, which is exactly what you would expect/want from an ignition upgrade The bottom line don't expect to bolt on a CDI and pick up 50 bhp, it isn't that simple. cheers PS; if you think the Autronic CDI is expensive, wait until you price the Motec.

A number of guys have have replaced their Japanese brand name suspension with the Group Buy kit and report MUCH improved ride comfort and superior handling. Comments like this; I spent a long time designing the Group Buy kit so it gave good ride, sporty and great handling, and that's the reports I am getting back from the guys that have fitted their kits. cheers

The Nismo FPR we use is part #22670-RR580. It bolts onto the end of the fuel rail, replacing the standard FPR. That same part number fits SR20, RB26 and RB25 fuel rails. The picture that Nengun have on their web site is not of part #22670-RR580, this is a picture of a real #22670-RR580 The Bosch 040 in tank should do the job for 250 4wkw, you can use the standard wiring with 040's to get high and low flow rates. They don't draw the same current as 044's. High pressure, fuel injection hose can be bought from any parts shop (Repco, AutoOne, AutoPro, AutoBarn, SupaCheap etc) or any hose shop (Enzed, Pirtec etc). They also have suitable stainless steel clamps. I use 2 clamps per joint up to 45 psi fuel pressure. Over that I go to screw on fittings, I don't trust slide on hoses and clamps. Fuel fires are nasty. You won't need an adjustable Fuel Pressure regulator (AFPR) or hoses or clamps if you are using appropriately sized injectors and fuel pump. The standard stuff will hanble it just fine, becasue you are not raising the fuel pressure. You only need an AFPR (to raise the fuel pressure) if you need to push the injectors (just a little, never a lot ) to make the power target. These are the three styles of injectors used in RB's. From left to right, the top feed RB25 NEO style (all blue), the side feed RB25 (non NEO) style (pink/purple top) and the top feed RB20/26 style (blue top). As you can see they are not physically interchangeable. The side feed RB25 (non NEO) style injector is high impedance, the top feed RB20 is also high impedance but the RB26 style top feed is low impedance (ie; needs a resistor pack). I hope that answered all of the questions cheers

I can imagine cheers

Hi David, check out the Bilstein/Whiteline Group Buy for your model of Skyline. Body roll is best controlled by the stabiliser bars, that's why the Group Buy kit has good ride, sporty, but not harsh and great handling. Cheers

Front = 290 lbs per inch Rear = 100/555 lbs per inch Progressive, the 11.7/5.25 coil is 100 lbs per inch and when it closes up completely (coil bind) the spring rate jumps to 555 lbs per inch (the rate of the 13.8/4.25 coil). Now that is ugly, my back aches just thinking about it. cheers

This sticky thread shows you how to measure your springs and I will work out the spring rates for you from those measurements. Yes, you can do it on the car. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=79157 Unfortunately if it has 650 lbs per inch springs in the front, fiddling with the stabiliser bars isn't going to help. It will need a spring change, but we won't know that until we know what the spring rates are. cheers