Sydneykid

Hi, R33GTR's have rear shocks with forks on the bottom, so you can't use them on a car that needs rear shocks with eyes. What you need is R33GTR front shocks and springs to handle the extra weight of the 4wd system and R33GTST rear shocks and springs to suite the mounting system. I have not seen a decent off the shelf spring and shock set (all 4) that is specifically designed for an R33GTS4 The Group Buy kit for the R33GTS4 has the front and rear Bilstein shock valving matched to the springs, bars and to each other. I spent quite a bit of time getting the items matched up. It is definitely a technically superior system. The ride/handling balance is very good, just a bit sporty but not at all harsh. No, it isn't OK to have different suspension front and rear. Mismatching upsets the ride comfort, handling, braking and power down. If you want a CHEAP fix for the worn out rear shocks, buy a set of used (but OK condition) Stagea rear shocks and swap your springs over. That will get you out of trouble for a while. I have an OK pair around here somewhere, PM me an I will have a look for them. Installing rear shocks is not too dificult, getting to the top mounts (right up under the parcel shelf) can be tricky. Especially if it has been replaced with a more rigid item for mounting speakers. So $150 sounds quite reasonable. Hope that helps cheers

Hi guys, there are only a few sets of R34GTT Bilsteins left. As soon as they are sold Jamex will be closing the Group Buy on the R34GTT kit. We have no word from Germany as to when they will be making the next production run of R34GTT Bilsteins. So if you are thinking about joining in, don't wait too long. Cheers

Hi, I notice you still have the valve springs for sale, will you take offers on them? I can transfer the money today and have a courier pick them up tomorrow morning, if we can agree on a price of course. cheers

I know it sounds like I am pushing, but there are only a limited number of Bilsteins available. When they run out I wil have to close the Group Buy. Bilstein (Germany) won't make Skyline shocks just for Australia, we don't order enough to make it worthwhile them doing a production run. So we have to wait until Japan orders. Nobody knows how long that will take, could be months, might be tomorrow. Plus Bilstein production scheduling is currently 3 to 5 months ahead. So that's the minimum anyway. If the Bilstein distributor gets enough shocks delivered out of the production run. then I might be able to convince them to do it again. But if they only get a handfull, then they won't want to offer them at a cheap price. It's a kit deal, so I don't think I will be able to get Whiteline on board without Bilstein. The bottom line, if you want a set, then order them now, I would much rather SAU guys get them than outsiders. Jamex will hold them on deposit ($100 a shock). cheers

Check out the Group Buy on Bilstein shocks for R33GTR and R33GTS4; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=87826 cheers

The full Group Buy kit is costing most guys between $400 and $500 to fit, including a full on 4 wheel alignment. Add the HICAS lock bar, maybe $100'ish. So $500 to $600 would be what I would expect. The $700 quote is a little high, but not outrageous. cheers

For maximum rear traction, that's location 2 and 4 as shown in the post above. I have mine in 1 and 4, for all round performance. I don't have enough power to have a rear traction problem. cheers

For completeness, I have marked up the subframe pictures supplied by Emanuel to show front and rear camber kits, the front caster kit and the rear subframe alignment bush locations. The first picture is the front suspension; The red dots show the location of the caster bushes ie; in the the front of the radius rods. The yellow dots show the location of the camber bushes ie; in the upper control arm. The second picture is the rear suspension; The yellow dots show the location of the rear camber bushes ie; in the upper control arm inner. This is the location used if you only need one camber kit (ie; not lowered a lot). The red dots show the location of the rear camber bushes ie; in the upper control arm outer. If you need 2 camber kits (ie; lowered a lot) then you will need to fit the second camber kit here. The green dots show the location of the rear subframe alignment bushes, remember some can go above the subframe and some can go below the subframe, depending on what geometry you want. Please review the previous post for details. Hope that was of some help Cheers

Oh goody, mine is a blue one. Thanks for the background. cheers

Turbo is a Innovative T66, makes a smidge under 1 bar at 4,000 rpm in 2nd and revs to 8,000 rpm, but I only use 7,500 rpm. It has a standard RB25DET gearbox (which is back from service today, so I gotta go and pick it up). That gives a 2,000 rpm drop on up change 2nd to 3rd. So, working backwards, I change up at 7,500 rpm, it drops to 5,500 rpm. That gives me a good 1,500 rpm to either change up earlier (say at 6,000 rpm) or let the engine roll on though the corner. None of this is an accident, I planned the engine configuation and tuned it to suite the gearbox ratios. If I had a close ratio gear box I could easily extract more power without worrying about the reduced power band because the gearbox would take care of that. As Roy posted, it is all about planning the corner for either a higher gear with boost or not too many rpm in the lower gear. Occasionally you will find a corner that is right in the middle, then it is always better to go for the higher gear. cheers

We have an R34GTT than makes 265 rwkw, has done for over 2 years with more power EVERYWHERE than standard using a GCG ball bearing high flow of the standard R34GTT turbo. No internal work, I did pull the head off for some porting, just to prove how effective that was. We have done a couple of other R34GTT's with similar results. Ian has an R33GTST (RB25DET non Neo) with 275 rwkw using the same turbine. That's about the limit, in my opinion, for standard RB25DET internals. cheers PS, tuning the PFC is so simple, most of the hard work is done by Apexi, the base maps are all loaded. All that is needed is some fine tuning. Even with the hand controller you are not looking at a lot of time. Most good PFC tuners these days have Datalogit anyway.

I don't know, it's not really up to me. Bilstein won't make Skyline shocks just for Australia, we don't order enough to make it worthwhile them doing a production run. So we have to wait until Japan orders. Nobody knows how long that will take, could be months, might be tomorrow. Plus Bilstein production scheduling is currently 3 to 5 months ahead. So that's the minimum anyway. If the Bilstein distributor gets enough delivery out of the production run. then I might be able to convince them to do it again. But if they only get a handfull, then they won't want to offer a cheap price. It's a kit deal, so I don't think I will be able to get Whiteline on board without Bilstein. The bottom line, if you want a set, then order them now, I would much rather SAU guys get them than outsiders. Jamex will hold them on deposit ($100 a shock). cheers

Ah yes, sticky tyres or throttle control lessons. A V8Supercar is only 400'ish rwkw and they have 10" wide slicks, and throttle control is a well learned skill even in them. In the R32GTST (420+ rwkw) we have to wind off the steering lock on corner exit to match the power application. If we hang onto steering lock, it will step out and fry the rear tyres. Some sugestions for fine tuning the suspension set up; More front bar Less rear bar More rear toe in More rear neg camber (check the tyre temperatures to be sure) More rear squat via the subframe adjustment. Let me know what you have everyhting set at now, if you want some more detaileed suggestions. Cheers

There are only 2 sets of front shocks left in stock. So don't delay if you want to join in on the Group Buy. It will have to close when these are sold. Cheers

The PFC warning light flash default for Knock is 60. But it takes more than one single knock level over 60 to flash the light. The 94 could have been a rogue one off. I haven't had any issues with the default PFC mapping with the standard turbo at 10 psi. Give it a try. cheers

Sound like it's missing, try new plugs. If it has pods, clean the AFM's with spray on brake cleaner (no residue). Replaced the fuel filter lately? If not, then do it now. If none of those fix it, time for visit to your local workshop. cheers

5.1 volts is max for AFM, plenty left. AFM voltage is not linear, in airflow terms 4.85 volts is not 95% of 5.1 volts. It is actually around 80%. The 77% is a bit high, but will drop when it is tuned. They usually need leaning out a lot, so less injector duration required. Between 70% and 75% is common after tuning for your mods. cheers

I actually runs much cooler in there than it used to under the drivers seat with carpet up against it and the seat a few mm's above it. Cheers

What blew on the turbo? Turbine or compressor? Did you ask GCG? My guess is compressor, something caused a blade to break and the engine sucked it in. Hence the 1 cylinder damage. Is it an inlet valve or an exhaust valve? That's also a good indication. I have NEVER seen or heard of an RB20/25 with ceramic in the cat disease that had any engine damage from the turbine letting go. I have personally replaced 11 RB20/25DET turbos and never seen any indication that the ceramic dust went anywhere other then in the cat. With 6 cylinders pumping out exhaust and one turbo it would take a miracle for the dust to get sucked backwards. I have only replaced 5 turbos on RB26's with ceramic in the cat disease, and NONE of those showed any indication that the ceramic dust went anywhere other than in the cat. But (there is always a but) with 3 cylinders and 2 turbos, it is slightly more possible that some ceramic dust could sneak back into one (or more) of the 3 cylinders connected to the blown turbo. The turbos I have replaced have been on GTR's that were on the circuit at the time they blew. So they were at high rpm and lots of load, hence plenty of exhaust flow. But 2 of them got driven home, slowly and had ZERO evidence of ceramic dust. As for porting, the standard RB25/26 cylinder head is over rated, they have average ports and the casting is far from uniform. Remember they were designed in 1987/88. The combustion chamber volumes are not equal, so neither is the compression ratio. There is plenty to be gained from porting and almost as much from polishing the combustion chambers and equalising their volume. Plus it is a far superior method of decreasing the compression ratio, if you want to run high boost (2 bar plus). Matching the inlet and exhaust manifolds to the ports is also very worthwhile. When ever the cylinder head is off any of my engines, it gets ported. It removes a restriction so that I can make the same power at lower boost, or I can make more power at the same boost. The old school thinking was "don't bother about porting, turn up the boost". Just push that air past the restriction. Those days are gone, now we make huge power at comparatively low boost levels on unleaded fuel by removing restrictions and avoiding detonation. Good sized/shaped ports and smooth combustion areas are one of our best weapons. Enough from me.......... cheers

Don't strees Geoff, your Bislteins are safe and warm in my office. Just waiting on front springs, I'll give you an ETA later today. cheers

Sound to me like you need some traction improvements, wings are a high speed tuning device, pretty useless at low speeds. Shoud we get into discussing suspension and alignment setting? cheers

I have some pictures of the standard CD stacker that was there before I put the amp in. I just removed the stacker and bolted in the amp, I made up a couple of 3mm aluminium brackets to adapt the amp shape to the stacker mounts. I will take some pictures of the amp tomorrow and post them up. Cheers