Sydneykid

Yep, I like the front bar, rear bar and the rear spoilers as they are, I wouldn't mind a set of small side skirts though. The extra width of the Stagea cabin on the narrower R33 4door floor pan means there is that noticeable tuck in under the doors. A set of skirts would fix that, provided that they aren't too deep as that would make the front and rear bars look out of place. So I think the 260RS side skirts might be a bit too big, do you have any pictures of the Dayz side skirts that go with the front bar? cheers

Sometimes the thickness of the paint takes it 0.2mm over the actual wire size, so I reckon 12 mm might be the go. That would make the spring rate 255 lbs per inch. Which is OK for a road GTR front and the occasional track day. Cheers

I have loaded up some pictures in the Stagea Suspension thread, showing the look at 340/330 mm. cheers

As promised some pictures with the Whiteline coils fitted. The front is 340 mm centre of wheel to guard and the rear is 330 mm, this gives a 15 mm rake towards the front (ie; nose down). As you can see the 245/40/17's are a bit small in diameter for the large Stagea guards. I reckon 245/45/17's would fill the guards a little better. The look I like is along the side of a car, where the wheels are in line with the bodywork; The standard exhaust is a bit low at 340/330 mm so I am going to raise it up 1 circlip groove (ie; 350/340 mm) for the 3.25" exhaust which is going on next week (finally). Now I know why Autech used the R33GTR wheels on the 260RS, I reckon they suite the Stagea shape very well. cheers

A reality check.........keep in mind it's a 2.6 litre engine hauling 1600+kgs (inc driver and fuel). 1. a standard RB26 with its ~200 4whp is pretty dead down low, doesn't realy get up go till 4,000 rpm, but has quick response to throttle inputs 2. a mildly upgraded RB26 with ~300 4whp looses very little bottom end, but picks up quite a bit of top end 3. a thoroughly upgraded RB26 with ~450 4whp actually gains a little bottom end and a lot of top end and has better than standard throttle response. 4. a heavily upgraded RB26 with ~550 4whp loses a heap of bottom end, has very little performance under 5,000 rpm, jumps quickly in power and has a great big top end. The throttle response is good once over that rpm. 5. a highly upgraded RB26 with ~650 4whp is a dog below 6,000 rpm, has a light switch power delivery, nothing ......nothing ....hang on. Is very tricky to drive fast in the dry and almost impossible in the wet. On the street (which is not really the place for a GTR) #3 has proven to be consistently the fastest in the sort of conditions I encounter. It is my personal favourite every day street (occasional circuit) RB26 spec. Plus it gives good value (performance) for money, each step above that seems to double the cost and halve the enjoyment. cheers PS; adding capacity (2.7 litres, 2.8 litres 3.0 litres and 3.1 litres) helps the above considerably.

We do basically what gtrken posted.... Castrol GTX (the basic no frills mineral oil) with new filter. Run engine for about 1/2 hr or until well warm. Change oil filter. Engines can have particles in them that acccumulate during the build/maching proces and they need to be removed from the engine ASAP, these are caught in the oil filter. If you leave them in, the oil filter can get blocked and so will be bypassed. Check basic tune on the dyno or on the road with portable lambda sensor. Drive to Bathurst and back, lots of varying conditions, up and down hills, freeway, long climbs etc Refill with Castyrol Formula R Synthetic, new oil filter. Do leak down test, if OK then final tune on the dyno. Go racing Cheers

No not rocks, Geoff is spot on, some detonation, pieces of molten piston, poor oil control, more detonation, loss of ring seal, more oil, more detonation............etc. Not the oil pump's fault, you either have a tuning problem (most likely) or an injector/fuel supply problem (worth checking). cheers

Hi Chinny, Chris would have specified pretty much the same as the Group Buy kit. I have used the Whiteline springs because the spring rates are just slightly more suited to the rest of the kit than the Kings. The adjustable stabiliser bars are an option in the Whiteline handling kit. Usefull if you want to play around with the settings to get the balance to your personal preferences. But if you don't want to play around then save your money and get the fixed rate bars. Silly to pay for something if you are not going to use it. The Group Buy prices are very competitive, should save you a good $400 off retail prices. After all that's what a Group Buy is all about. Cheers

PM me with the details. cheers

That means the 70mm/95mm is ID not OD? No coil plant I know of makes 12.5mm spring steel wire, are you sure it's not 12 mm or 13 mm? If it is 95 and 70 ID and 12.5 mm then; 95/70 X 12.5 X 7.25 = 300lbs per inch cheers

Hi Mark; results as follows; 88/76 X 12 X 10.125 = 170 lbs per inch 98/66 X 12 X 7 = 270 lbs per inch Cheers

I have used inlet air temp connection on an R32GTST Power FC by connecting up an R32GTR sensor, good chance it would also work on an R33GTST. The RB25DET Power FC has an air temp correction table that can be accessed with Datalogit (and I assume Apexi Excel), however it isn't accessible with the Commander on the models I have seen. So the PFC software would appear to be able to support an inlet air temp sensor, otherwise it wouldn't have a correction table. The intake air temp sensor is pin 36 on the R33GTR, so the first thing I would do is check and see if that pin is used on the R33GTST ECU plug. If it isn't used, then connect up an R32/33GTR inlet air temp sensor and see if it is recognised. cheers

Sorry I missed this post. 96/85 - 12 - 7.1 = 205 lbs per inch 100/90 - 13 - 9 = 175 lbs per inch cheers

They are called tender or helper springs, usually they are between 75 lbs per inch and 125 lbs per inch. They are mainly there to keep the main spring captive at full droop. They also give a modicum of inside wheel contact at places like the dipper. They totally collapse when the weight of the car is placed on the spring stack, that's why they are made of flat wire, so they neatly stack on top of each other. You can live without them and simply limit the travel of the shock, so the main spring stays captive. But (there is always a but) that sometimes means there is not enough droop to get the wheels off when you jack the car up. Saw that happen on a Nissan SuperTourer, they limited the shock travel to save buying tender springs. Then they couldn't get the rear wheels on. :lol: :lol: :lol: cheers

We have the adjustable Whiteline camber bushes in our R32GTST and it has 2.0 to 3.5 degrees adjustment in the negative camber on the front. That is plenty because we also have the adjustable radius rod bushes which give ~8 degrees positive caster. So it is not necessary to run very much camber, more caster less camber is always a superior solution. If you run the front ride height around 350 mm (centre of wheel to guard) you will find that, without any adjustment, you have around 1.5 to 2 degrees negative camber. The camber bushes give you the adjustment from there. We have found that around 350 mm is a good ride height, within the design parameters of the standard suspension location points. So you don't get excessive dynamic camber change or bump steer. I wouldn't be running toe in on the front on the circuit, a little toe out makes the turn in much better. You should also consider the rear, where the camber bushes are used to adjust out the excessive negative camber you get when the rear ride height is lowered to match the front. We run aropund 10 mm of rake (nose down) as that gives a good roll couple. Any lower at the rear and the roll couple gets too small and you get diagonal pitching off the ripple strips. Check out the Group Buy for your model, as the Whiteline camber and caster kits are at good prices. Hope that was some help cheers

Tie rods are the link between the steering rack and the wheels, so they are somewhat important. As the name implies they are simply a rod, one end has a ball joint screwed on that is connected to the upright. The other end is connected to the steering rack. Tie rods don't wear out, they can get bent if the wheel hits something. Ball joints wear out though, but they are big suckers on Skylines/Stageas, I don't think I have ever seen a worn one. So I think you need to check what it is that is actually worn, neither are particularly expensive. Once you know what it is exactly that you need you can order the part from your local Nissan dealer, check up on the Forum for the Nissan Fast part number. cheers

From this morning's Age.......... The VACC said there was.... "a tendency for LPG prices to follow petrol prices". LPG prices are based on the Saudi contract price........ LPG is still free of excise, but that will change in 2011, when the Federal Government begins introducing a 12.5 cents a litre excise... From the Federal Gov't Science, Technology, Environment and Resources Group... "World prices of LPG in general move in line with crude oil prices" From the ALPGA....... "LPG Spot prices around the world have increased in a gradual manner since May 2003 due to the growing global demand. However, Spot prices increased dramatically during August as a result of very strong demand from China and the USA." There are quite few more, but I think you get the drift. LPG prices are not going to continue at the current discounted level compared to petrol. So what small real world advantage there is will be gone and you will be stuck with the lousy performance, poor resale value, limited range and inconvenience for no tangible benefit. cheers

You could burn the old rubber bushes out, oxy works great but the burning rubber smells real bad and makes a lot of thick black smoke.. The crush tube (centre) just falls out when the rubber burns. When it cools you can cut the outer shell with a hack saw. It then will pretty much fall out, maybe give it a tap with a hammer and cold chisel to help it along. You really do need a press to put the Whiteline bushes in, they need about 5 tonnes to get them moving. Personally I would take it along to my local machine/suspension shop and get the old bushes pressed out and the new ones pushed in. Usually $50 cash does the trick, well worth it. If you are doing other bushes, you can rent a press from your local Wrechair/Coates/National/Ace/Kennards for a similar amount. Make sure you get the right size press tools to fit the bushes. cheers

1. Yep, swaybars are the best bang for buck handling upgrade you can do. 2. Yep (again), remove the radius rod, press the standard rubber bush out and replace it with the Whiteline adjustable bush. cheers