Sydneykid

Thanks for supporting the Group Buy, please PM me with the details. cheers

Please don't delay too long, there are only a limited number of GTR Bilsteins. I would prefer that SAU guys got them rather than outsiders. cheers

Not in my race team. The numbers refer to the toe (ie; front of the tyre) Not the heel (ie; rear of the tyre) -2 mm toe means the toes are closer together (ie; the distance is 2 mm less between the toes than it is between the heels) +2mm toe means the toes are further appart (ie; the distance is 2 mm more between the toes than it is between the heels) cheers PS; no, I don't have a foot fettish

Have a look at the R33 GTST Whiteline and Bisltein suspension Group Buy thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85467 I think most of your questions are answered there, if not ask away and I wil do my best to answer. cheers

88/78 X 12 x 9.125 = ~185 lbs per inch 98/68 X 12 X 8.5 = ~200 lbs per inch Not much different to the Kings spring rates, don't think you will notice it. cheers

Noooooooo! I like the red. Blue is soooooo common, even I have a blue one. cheers

Personally I wouldn't, my cars (both of them) are set to zero toe with the HICAS removed. I like to limit the power oversteer and running 2 mm toe out exacerbates that. Plus it makes it a little nervous under extreme braking. With the front caster at 7 degrees it has plenty of turn in, which is what the rear toe in helps. I don't need the rear toe out, so I don't run it. cheers

This is the full kit for an R32GTR, with adjustable stabilser bars as it gives you the ability to fine tune the handling for those occasional trips to the circuit. I have also included the bump stop and dust cover kit, which you may or may not need depending on the condition of the ones on the car. 73157 Front Springs $144.00 70191 Rear Springs $144.00 Front Bilstein Shocks $578.00 Rear Bilstein Shocks $578.00 BNF27Z Front stabiliser bar $219.00 BNR26XZ Rear stabiliser bar $219.00 KCA332 Caster Kit $115.00 KCA336 Front Camber kit $272.00 KCA347 Rear Camber Kit $123.00 KCA349 Rear Subframe alignment kit $105.00 W0921 Bump Stop & Dust Cover $102.00 Zero Freight $- Sub Total $2,599.00 Less extra 5% $129.95 Total $2,469.05 Fulcrum can do the fitting in Qld, although you could easily fit the stabilisers bars and rear subframe alignment kit yourself. The shocks and springs are pretty easy as well, you just need a spring compressor ($25 from SupaCheap). The caster and camber bushes are a bit trickier as you will need a 20 tonnes press to remove the old rubber bushes and insert the new polyurethane bushes. Then a wheel alignment o0f course. PM me for any further details. cheers

The usual terminology is +2 mm = toe out and -2 mm = toe in. I have found most of the Skylines on SAU have a decent amount of power and therefore power oversteer somewhat. The HICAS also promotes some rear nervousness when close to the limit. The toe in helps reduce both of those. Have a chat with Andrew, he knows his stuff, and talk about what it means to your car specifications and your personal preference. cheers

Check out the R32GTR Group Buy, all the details are there. PM me if you need any additional ingormation. cheers

A 200SX has strut front end and weighs 100 kgs or so less than a Skyline (double wishbone) with pretty much all of that over the front whels (SR versus RB). So any comparison is meaningless. What I can tell you is the ride is sporty, without being harsh. The handling improvement is dramatic, with a large traction window so it is easy to drive fast, not at all edgy. cheers

I have all the parts necessary to build an RB24 and I have had them for about 5 years; GTR crank GTR rods ARP rod bolts ARP main bearing studs ARP head studs 4AGZE pistons (high pressure cast with ceramic coating) Total Seal Piston rings ACL race series bearings Cometic cylinder head gasket and a 180,000 ks RB20 All I need to build the engine itself is a Nissan RB20 gasket & seal kit, a set of cams, pulleys, valves, valve springs, solid follower conversion and some machining, inc porting the cylinder head. But I haven't done it, in that time I have done 2 X RB30's for my own use. An RB30DET using an RB25DE top end and the latest RB31DET with an RB26 top end. WHY? Because the RB30 is cheaper to build, cheaper to maintain and much easier/cheaper to get parts for. I can make more power/torque with the RB30 without reving it any more than a standard RB26, so I don't need expensive top end parts, high rpm water & oil pumps, low rpm puilleys for the alternator, power steering pump, shorter diff/gearbox ratios, inlet plenum etc etc. Plus I can do it at lower boost, because the RB26 top end flows so much better. Less restriction at lower boost and higher airflow = more power at lower stress. It's not the cost of the crank, rods and pistons, they are relatively cheap. It's all the other (costly) things that I need to buy for an RB20 to make the RB24 conversion worthwhile. Stuff that I simply don't have to buy when I build an RB31DET. I will build the RB24 one day, but just for interest sake, not because it's a good idea. cheers

No alloy control arms in sight; The only Nissan alloy suspension parts I know of are the rear uprights off GTR's. cheers

Knowing what is the fastest possible boost build for the engine/turbo combination is very important. Otherwise I can't tell if the boost controller is doing its job properly ie, isn't leaking boost to the wastegate actuator before the target boost is reached. What I do is a quick power run on the dyno with the vacuum hoses to the wastegate actuators removed. I limit the rpm climb so that the boost doesn't get too far past my target level. The logged boost curve is then the target for tuning the boost controller. It doesn't mattter what brand or style of boost controller, the fastest boost build possible is one achieved without any wategate opening. If I am doing it without the dyno, I use a video camera pointed at the gauges. It's the poor man's data logger, just play it back in slow motion. The Datalogit works great as well, if you have one. cheers

Handling is a great improvement over standard Ride is more sporty without being excessively harsh. Adjustable stabiliser bars will enable you to tune the handling to your liking. cheers

Take a look at the Whiteline/Bilstein Suspension Group Buy for the R33GTR/R33GTS4. You won't get any better for the price. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=87826 cheers

Everything in the front end seems to be R33GTR, so I would start there. cheers

I was at Just Jap yesterday for an hour or so and every single person who walked in, while I was there, stopped and looked at the Stagea. Service stations are sometimes embarrasing, guys wander over while you are filling up and want to talk. Lots of people walk (out of their way) around the back and read the badges. Haven't had as many "what sort of Volvo waggon is that?" lately. When towing the R32GTST race car I have to be so carefull, people stare and forget to stop, don't use blinkers or take up my breaking distance when they drop in front to take a look. I have gotten used to the attention, but the other members of the family still find it interesting. cheers

I only want/need the Dayz side skirts, already have the front bar and the tow bar precludes the rear bar extension. cheers