Sydneykid

Check out the relevant Group Buy on Whiteline/Bilstein suspension for your model of Skyline in the Group Buys section. I think it will answer most of your questions. If not post them up and I will do my best to answer them. Cheers

Preloading a coil spring doesn't increase the springs rate. an 600 lbs per inch spring takes 600 lbs to compress it the 1st inch, 600 lbs the 2nd inch and 600 lbs the 3rd inch. Just because you preload it 2 or 3 inches doesn't change the rate, it is still gunna take 600 lbs to compress it the next inch. The most important thing with fixing Skyline suspension is to know the ride height. So what are the centre of wheel to guard measurement on all 4 corners? If they are less than 350 mm then its too low, raise it up to 350 mm and see what the ride is like then. The next most important thing is the spring rate, most Jap coil overs have rediculously high springs rates. Many can have the spring rates reduced, that helps a lot. The shocks may have enough window in their valving to handle a more sensible spring rate, you won't know unless you try them. If you want to know what the spring rates are there is a thread that I started some time ago, just post up your spring dimensions and I will work the rates out for you. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...&hl=Spring+rate cheers

Probably, the shock shaft has to be a similar size. The bump stops stretch, so I don't see that as being a problem. The shock body OD has to be less than 50 mm as that is the ID of the dust cover. Measure that just to be sure. You will have to trim the bump stop length to suite the ride height you have the shocks set at. See pictures and instructions on page 1 of this thread. Cheers

Suggestions follow; 1. It doesn't matter, the only thing you need to be aware of is the clearance to the exhaust system, where the bar bends in a "U" shape to clear it. If you have the links too short, the bar will hit the exhaust system on big bumps on a lowered Stagea. If you have the links to long the bar will hit the exhaust system when the rear suspension droops on normal height Stageas. From the pictures you have it pretty much central, which is OK. 2. Yep, that's what happens when you increase the antiroll. Try a few extra pounds in the tyres. The wheel alignment, via the adjustable bushes, will help of course. 3. I don't really have any pictures of installing bushes. The instructions are pretty good and once you have the parts off the car (that the bushes need to be replaced in) it is pretty obvious where they go. The caster bushes (KCA332) go in the front of the radius rods and replace the rubber bushes that are already there. The Front camber bushes (KCA348) go in the ends of front upper control arms and replace the rubber bushes that are already there. Similarly the Rear camber bushes (KCA347 ) go in the ends of the rear upper control arms and replace the rubber bushes that are already there. The rear subframe bushes go between the standard bushes and the mounts (as per the instructions). They don't replace the standard rubber bushes. I do have some pictures of the standard components, if I get time tonight I will post them up with arrows where the bushes go. cheers

The answer is; Cheers

The knob at the top on Ohlins is for rebound adjustment, it adjusts the valving via a shaft that goes down to the piston, inside the main shock shaft. The knob on the bottom of the rears is interesting, that would normally be for bump valving adjustment. But I never seen Skyline Ohlins with that feature. Some pictures would be handy. Cheers

Ahh, that explains it. I would go with the BNF27XZ (24mm) on the front and the BNR26XZ (24mm) on the rear. You can probably get them at the Group Buy price of $219 + $20 for freight. That will include an additional hole on each arm for extra adjustment. PM me if you are interested, other details are on the R32GTR/GTS4 Group Buy thread. cheers

Sorry, I don't really know exactly how long the Group Buy will be running for. As long as the current stocks of Bilsteins last, after that there is a 3-5 month wait for batches to be made in Germany. Australia isn't big enough to order a whole batch, so we have to wait until Japan orders, then we can tag along. At the current rate of take up you are looking at maybe 3 to 4 weeks until the stock runs out. cheers

A few guys have asked me about getting acces to the rear shock tops. You have to remove the plastic cover, it has a single 10mm bolt hold it in and 2 clips. You just pull straight up to unclip it, once you have removed the bolt. There is a rubber cover over the shock top and its 2 X 12mm retaining bolts. Just pull up the rubber cover, its a tight fit. Then undo the 2 X 12mm nuts, be careful, don't drop them down behind the trim, it's a bugga to get them out. Tools required = 10 mm socket and 12 mm socket with rachet drive cheers

Check out the Stagea Suspension thread, I have added a few more pictures over the last couple of days as I have installed the Whiteline springs. Tried to answer a few questions people have asked me along the way. cheers

Hi Brendan, suggestion follow; 1. It only happens when you have full lock on and reversing. 2. Just the SITC on its own should take a few minutes, it's only 5 load points. The time may be consumed in retuning the SAFC. Because you can do some retarding with the SITC to offset some of the unwanted advancing that happens when you reduce the AFM voltages to get the A/F ratios where you want them. It ends up being a bit of a go round, fine tune one, then the other. But I can't see it taking more than an hour. 3. No you could tune the SITC on the road by listening for pre-igntion, but it is a bit hard as you end up doing warp speed soemtimes to get enough load. Best done on the dyno. 4. Retuning the SAFC for the Z32 AFM is a bitch, basically you have to start again from scratch as the voltage ramps are totally different. So however long it took to do the original tune plus a bit as it will require some more adjustment than the standard AFM. 5. No diffference, everything that wears is replaced, so it doesn't matter what condition the turbo you have high flowed is in. Its a bit more convenient as you can swap them over easily in a few hours. Otheriwse you will have to wait a few days (no car) while yours is high flowed. Hope that answered your questions cheers

Yep, for the Group Buys I have specified the Bilstein shock valving to suite the spring rates, the vehicle weight and Australian roads. cheers

My guess would be insufficient front anti roll or excessive rear anti roll. What size stabiliser bars do you have on it? cheers

Wow, lots of questions; 1. Sounds like a boost controller problem, try reverting to standard plumbing and see if the noise persists. 2. Yep, ours gets the cluckiness in reverse most times, but it comes from the front not the rear. I will have another look, tomorrow while I am installing to the Whiteline rear springs. But I am sure ours has a "normal" rear diff, no extra stuff hanging off it. 3. The DFA on its own gave me a 10% improvement in fuel economy. That's with the standard exhaust, I reckon there is another 5% in upgrading it (turbo back). Once I finish the exhaust I will give the SITC a quick tune, it's installed, just not tuned yet. cheers

Yep, they can still be machined, down to the mimum thickness of course. cheers

The R34GTT turbo is around 15 rwkw better (260 rwkw versus 275 rwkw) due to its larger turbine cover. The rest is pretty much the same, except the R34GTT turbo has a plastic compressor wheel and the R33GTST has a steel compressor. Not that that is much of problem, the ceramic turbines fail a long time before the plastic compressor becomes and issue. cheers

Skyline pupms are pretty much interchangeable, I have an Z32 pump in the R32GTST, it is bascially the same as the R32GTR pump. I don't see any reason why the Stagea would accept (wiht a few little mods) any R32/33/34 Skyline pump. Cheers

Suggestion follow; 1. As the pads heat up they give off gas, this gas forms a layer between the pad and the rotor, lowering the CoF. Also small particles of pad compound form a layer between the pad and the rotor, like little ball bearings. The slots scrap off the partiles and allow the gas to escape. Hence you get superior pad to rotor contact and improved braking peformance. 2 Not really, the slots remove stuff that is no longer attached to the pad, they don't remove pad material itself. 3. No it's a wank that's why race cars use slotted rotors. It's the rice factor, nothing at all to do with improved braking performance. cheers

What spring rates did you settle on? cheers

These are the shift lights used in some SuperTourers, the sequential is around 98Pounds (exc VAT). Omex also do rev limiters, rev limiters with launch control and combined rev limiters and shift lights. I don't understand the paranoia over fuel cut rev limiters. The engine doesn't run lean on the rev limit, it DOEN'T RUN AT ALL, there is no fuel, so it's NOT LEAN. That cylinder is simply not running, ZERO COMBUSTION, not lean combustion. If you are really so paranoid about leaning out on the rev limit, then set up the fuel map so it runs super rich just before the rev limit rpm. And mega rich after that. You might even get some pretty flames out of the exhaust if you are lucky. There is plenty of reason to say that a fuel cut rpm limiter is much gentler on an engine than an ignition cut rpm limiter. I don't really think that Apexi are that stupid to use an rpm limiting system that will damage an engine. I have moved on from that urban myth, probably spread by sellers of other brands of ECU looking for a way to slow the take over by Power FC's. Based on what I have experienced, the Power FC rev limiter is far more accurate than the standard tacho. That's the most likely reason why you see rpm's higher than the rev limit is set to. Aftermarket tachos are not much better, based on what we see in the data logging on the race cars. Enough of the side track, back onto the main subject of this thread, A/F ratios and knock. When I am involved in the tuning of one of the race cars, I calibrate the lambda sensor before and after we do the tuning. That way I can be sure we are seeing consistent results, with reliable A/F ratio base data. This may be a bit extreme for a retail shop, as they would have to charge for the calibration time. A hard hit on the rpm limiter (1st or 2nd gear) can sometimes result in increased knock readings. It is more common with ignition cut rpm limiters, as you get uncontrolled combustion occurring (ie; not in the combustion chamber). My 20 cents worth for now cheers

Oh dear.........let's do some numbers......... Standard injectors are 370 cc's 92% = 340 cc's 340 cc's in a 6 cylinder = 340 bhp 340 bhp = 254 kw less 60 kw for losses in an R33GTST = 194 rwkw 218 rwkw would =12% increase in fuel flow 12% increase in fuel flow = ~40% increase in fuel pressure standard fuel pressure is 36-38 psi, so +40% = 53 psi (above boost) 53 psi plus 1 bar boost = ~68 psi I sure as hell hope you are not running 68 psi through the standard fuel lines and clamps, that is asking for trouble. cheers PS; 1 bar on the standard turbo, tick.....tick......

If it is locked you can't change the maps inthe first place. And yes Datalogit can always unlock it if it is locked. I have NEVER EVER seen a locked PFC from Japan. cheers