Sydneykid

Enough said

Hi Brendan, you are not comparing apples with apples here. I can't speak about other high flows, but GCG use a brand new dual ball bearing core, new (larger diameter) shaft, new seals, new gaskets, new compressor, new turbine, machine the standard compressor and turbine covers to suite and them micro balance the whole rotating assembly. It's basically a new turbo, everything that is subject to wear is brand new. All the components are covered by Garrett new parts warranty. It bolts back up exactly as it was when standard, everything fits, no mods, no extra parts, no missing bits, no days waiting for stuff to be made, just bolt it up up and drive away. That is simply not the case with an aftermarket turbo. You will most likely find yourself spending hundreds of dollars more buying and fabricating parts to get the off the shelf turbo to fit. You can of course buy a turbo with a fitting kit for an RB25 (GTRS for example) but they cost ~$3,200 by the time they get here. That's a valid (total) cost comparison. cheers

Nope, just undo the philips head screw that holds the parker assembly onto the top of the headlight assembly. Then pull the parker assembly straight forward by slipping a couple of fingers behind it. It is very tight, just make sure you pull it straight, not up or down or outwards. cheers

Precisely, 2 X Q45 AFM's will handle well over 1100 bhp, so I have yet to see any need to give up the AFM's superior precision in transient throttle applications. I like the "Autronic gets around it", that means it GUESSES the airflow based on an rpm versus throttle position map ie; 2 dimensional tuning. That's not "cool", it's a band aid to make up for the fact that an AFM would tell you exactly how much air the turbo is ingesting. Personally I prefer an AFM sensor driven ECU, at least I know it will inject the amount of fuel to match the measured airflow according to my mapping. cheers

Happens all the time on the race cars, we simply drill a hole (or 2) and use a slide hammer to pull it out. Cut the rail and replace the piece, you have got to be kidding. cheers

Not unusual with excessively hard Japanese aftermarket suspension kits. How low have you got it set (centre of wheel to guard)? Too low and it will be pounding the bump stops, the damge at the bottom will be reflected in damage at the top chassis mount. Check there for cracks as well. cheers PS; I can give you the minimum heights if I know what model it is.

We usually find 1 or 2 degrees advance on the inlet camshaft is the best on the non VVT engines. Maybe 3 degrees was past the optimum. cheers

Checked the tranmission fluid level lately? cheers

Stop crying , the R33GTR Group Buy is up. cheers

I have finished the engineering on the R33GTR and R33GTS4 suspension kits. There are quite a few differences in settings and parts selection, particularly shock absorber valving which needed a large number of changes. I have also included the often requested Dust Cover and Bump Stop kit, you only need it if you have to replace your broken, lost or worn out standard parts. The supply of R33GTR Bilsteins is also quite limited, so don't hesitate too long with taking up the Group Buy as they will all be gone. The next shipment is not due for at least 5 months. Please PM me with your order and post up any questions you may have on here. As it may answer other peoples questions at the same time. Fitting and alignment can be done at the following locations Heasmans Sydenham NSW East Coat Suspension Kirrawee NSW St George Steering Punchbowl NSW Centeline Thomastown Vic Traction Tyre & Suspension Rowville Vic Discount Tyres Service Belconnen Act Motsons Qld More fitting stations will be posted as they come to hand. Please note that the above fitting locations are workshops that I have used in the past, so I know that they can do the necessary work to the right standard and have the right equipment. No special prices or discounts apply, you can negotiate fitting cost and times directly. A full kit will take at least a whole day as the bushes in particular can be time consuming to fit. cheers PS; Shocks and springs are currently in stock, bushes and stabiliser bars are made to order. So delivery is ~10 days from time of order, all items are shipped via Toll Priority using their Off Peak service. Consignment note numbers will be provided at the time of shipping, so your order can be tracked via Toll. Payment should be made in full to the bank account details at the bottom of the price list, the receipt number for internet banking is acceptable or a copy of the deposit slip for over the counter banking. Send them to me via PM.

The LCD screen is held in place with two screws. One in the top left and one in the top right. These go though the main board and into the case. You have to solder the connections from the LCD screen to the main board. The spacers go under the main board between it and the case. The top 2 screws go through the LCD board, through the main board through 2 spacers and screw into the case. The bottom 2 screws go through the main board, through 2 spacers and screw into the case. If you don't put the spacers in between the case and the main board the buttons won't stick up far enough for you to push down, and the LCD screen will have a gap between it and the lid. Have a look on Page 106 of the Performance Electronics for Cars, if you don't have one, I strongly suggest you spend the $20 and get one from Jaycar. Hope that helps cheers

The standsrd fuel pump should be fine, if not an R33 GTR pump will cover it easily. Have you got a heat shield and cold air feed for that POD? If not, do some shopping on the forum. Then of course there is my favourite topic, suspension. There is a great Group Buy on at the moment I hear, already sold 4 Stagea kits. cheers

No problems, the Whiteline springs will fit the standard shocks. But honestly the standard shocks are simply not up to it. Even when new they don't control the standard springs very well, and they aren't new any more. Plus you are asking them to control a higher spring rate at a lower ride height. You have to remove the shocks to fit the springs, so you save nothing in labour by doing the springs on their own. Then if you find you don't like it, you can to pay again to have the shocks removed and replaced. Bottom line, it's your call but it is not something I would recommend. cheers

All items are in stock right now, but the Group Buy has taken off and I don't know how long the current stock will last. After that the max delay is 10 days. cheers

The ATTESSA handles the difference between worn and new tyres. Nissan aren't that mean to make you buy 4 new tyres all the time. The diameter needs to be the same (allowing for tread depth wear), the width is irellevant, the ATTESSA doesn't care how wide the tyres are. cheers

Shocks, springs, stabiliser bars and rear subframe alignment kit are easy. You will need a spring compressor (~$25 from SupaCheap, AutoOne, AutoPro, AutoBarn etc). Front caster bushes and front and rear camber bushes are not so easy. You need a 20 tonne press to remove the standard bushes (they can be very stubborn) and refit the Whiteline bushes (they slip in pretty easily). On my R32GTST they were rusted in and I had to burn the rubber out of front camber bushes and then cut the casing with a hack saw, bugger of a job. To keep the cost down you could remove the components from the car and take them to the workshop. Have them R&R the bushes and then fit them back into the car. cheers

I use the rear stage of the R32 pump to pump the fluid through the power steering cooler. It has been like that for 3 years. Don't just block off the rear stage, it will over heat and sieze. You can remove the rear rotor, but you then have to reroute the fluid to get it through the cooler. cheers

That's a tough question, every car is different. A full install including wheel alignment is an all day job for one person, with a little help from another occasionally. If the wheel alignment is tricky or if there are busted/rusted/stuck components, it may take a little longer. I would reckon around $400 to $500 should cover it, depending on the hourly rate of the workshop. cheers PS; I have recommended those workshops, not because of price, but because they know what they are doing with suspension.

For those that need them, the Dust Cover and Bump Stop kit is now inlcuded in the Group Buy and is on the price list. The cost is $51 per pair (exc freight), so you will need 2 pair for a car set (one pair for the front shocks and one pair for the rear shocks). cheers

For those that need them, the Dust Cover and Bump Stop kit is now inlcuded in the Group Buy and is on the price list. The cost is $51 per pair (exc freight), so you will need 2 pair for a car set (one pair for the front shocks and one pair for the rear shocks). cheers