Sydneykid

For those that need them, the Dust Cover and Bump Stop kit is now inlcuded in the Group Buy and is on the price list. The cost is $51 per pair (exc freight), so you will need 2 pair for a car set (one pair for the front shocks and one pair for the rear shocks). cheers

Stageas only have adjustable toe front and rear and limited camber adjustment on the rear standard. To adjust the camber and the caster they need the Whiteline bushes as per the kit. The settings I have quoted in the Group Buy are what you should be targetting. A quick diagnosis follows; FRONT You currently have ~3 degrees of caster, that's simply not enough for good steering feel and response to inputs. Plus to stop the drift to the left you need more caster on the LHS front than the RHS front with the camber equal. You have 1.20 degree negative camber on the LHS and 2.40 negative on the RHS. This is exacerbating the drift to the left. A caster kit (KCA332) will enable adjustment of the caster to achieve around 5 degrees positive which is more like it, plus give the ability to adjust for whatever more is necessary on the LHS to stop the drift. A camber kit (KCA348) will enable adjustment of the camber to get to the targetted 1 degree negative. If you don't fix the 2.40 negative on the RHS front it will wear out the inside of the tyre. REAR The toe in needs to be 2mm each side, at the moment it is -0.2mm on the LHS and +2.1mm on the RHS. I assume this was an attempt by the wheel aligner to stop the drift to the left caused by the front camber/caster. If you fix the front then they will be able remove this band aid and set the rear toe up correctly. The rear camber is too much at 1.6 degrees negative, but at least it is even. The standard adjusters can remove some of that. I don't know whether it is already on max adjustment or the wheel aligned didn't know about the standard adjustment. Have a look in the Stagea Suspension thread, it has pictures and instructions on how to adjust the rear camber. If the standard adjusters are already on max, then you will need a rear camber kit (KCA347) to get to the target 0.5 degrees negative. Hope that was of some help. cheers

Hi Shaun, shocks are put asside for you. I am working on the Group Buy prices and availablity for the dust covers and bump stops, might take a couple of days to arrange. I will post it up and amend the Group Buy price list as soon as it is confirmed. cheers

Thanks for the thanks, I spent a few months getting this together from an enginering and price view point. So it is nice to know it is appreciated. I read and replied to your PM before I read this post. Nothing wrong with the strut braces you have, they are in the kit for those unlucky people not to already have them. You will need to change the camber and the stabiliser bar settings for the track. It's not that hard, takes about 5 minutes extra per corner when you have the car jacked up to change to the RE55's. Please PM me if you have any more questions cheers

Here I am trying to stop the Group Buy copy cats, and you have let the cat out of the bag. cheers

Whiteline don't do fitting in house any more, they stopped a couple of months ago. PM me if you want to discuss further. cheers

Hi Mark if you already have Kings low springs then the rest of the kit will suite OK. I have designed the valving in the shocks with a window and the Kings low springs fit in that window. Kings super lows don't. If you don't already have springs, then the ones in the kit are the best. cheers

This Group Buy is arranged through Jamex and the only way I could get the good prices was to make it very simple for them. That's why it's direct deposit only. You can drop into your local bank branch and they will be able to do a paper based transfer internationally. cheers

My screen is completely flat. Sorry I can't remember what spacers I used and I can't just take a look as my Controller is out on loan at the moment. cheers

Rears are progressive, so that they stay trapped. Fronts don't need to be progressive. Plus I wouldn't use progressive rate springs in the front of a Skyline, they are too front weight biased (RB's are heavy). It would make them non linear in their front end response to steering inputs. Not really a good discussion for a Group Buy thread. This is a much discussed subject, plenty of posts on it. I suggest you do a search "Sydneykid" and "HICAS" . Thatshould answer most of your questions, if you need more info post it up in the Suspenson section. I will do my best to answer. cheers

There are plastic spacers in the kit. cheers

After much engineering I have finally finished the Bilstein and Whiteline suspension kit for the R32GTR and R32GTS4. You will notice the costs of the Bilsteins are slightly higher than the GTST's. This is due to the higher initial cost and the much larger amount of revalving needed to be caried out to get the right results and match the selected Whiteline kits. The supply of R32GTR Bilsteins is quite limited, so don't hesitate too long with taking up the Group Buy as they will all be gone. The next shipment is not due for at least 5 months. Front Camber kit Rear Camber kit Please PM me with your order here and post up any questions you may have on here. As it may answer other peoples questions at the same time. Fitting and alignment can be done at the following locations Heasmans Sydenham NSW East Coat Suspension Kirrawee NSW St George Steering Punchbowl NSW Centeline Thomastown Vic Traction Tyre & Suspension Rowville Vic Discount Tyres Service Belconnen Act Motsons Qld More fitting stations will be posted as they come to hand. cheers PS; Shocks and springs are currently in stock, bushes and stabiliser bars are made to order. So delivery is ~10 days from time of order, all items are shipped via Toll Priority using their Off Peak service. Consignment note numbers will be provided at the time of shipping, so your order can be tracked via Toll. Payment should be made in full to the bank account details in the initial post, the receipt number for internet banking is acceptable or a copy of the deposit slip for over the counter banking. Send them to me via PM.

If that was a piston from one of our race motors, my first question would not have been about tuning. I would have been far more interested in looking at the data log of what happened in the last few minutes of the engine's life. The old truth serum (logged data) doesn't lie. cheers

As always, every car is different, I have done wheel alignments on 4 X R33GTS's recently. The best one had 5.5 degrees standard on the LHS and the worst one had 4.4 degreees standard on the RHS. So obviously getting >7 out of the one with 5.5 was easy. But getting 7 out of the one with 4.4 was impossible, a bit over 6 was the most I could get. But it sure as hell felt a lot better. :)cheers

The GTR/SR style 2530 has a different (smaller) turbine cover than the RB20/25 style 2530. My guess would be you have either premature wastegate opening (most likely) or a boost leak in the inlet system (less likely). Try disconnecting the boost feed to the wastegate actuator, that will tell you how fast that turbo/engine combo can possibly build boost. Be carefull though, it is only a test to see how quick the boost builds, use the throttle to stop it overboosting ie; back off when it gets to your max safe boost level. I used that method on the Stagea, so I knew exactly how fast the standard turbo would build boost (10 psi at 2,250 rpm). Then I could tune the IEBC to achieve the fastest boost build. cheers

The Dyno Dynamics Shoot Out mode system was designed so that I could dyno my car in Tasmania in winter and in Darwin in summer and get the same power readings. To do that it has to measure both the inlet air temperature and the ambient air temperature Some clarification might help here; 1. The inlet air temperature sensor (on the Dyno Dynamics) is for measuring the temperature of the air going into the air filter. It is NOT the temperature of the air going into the engine (after turbo, intercooler etc). It is there for correction purposes, to allow for differences in the temperature of the air that the engine gets and therefore the power readings it gives. 2. The ambient air temperature sensor on the Dyno Dynamics is for measuring the temperature of the air in the dyno room. This is the temperature of the air that flows through the radiator, the oil cooler, the intercooler etc. This is important as it affects the temperature of the air out of the intercooler and the running temperature of the engine. Without both of these temperature inputs, the DD software would not be able to equalise the temperature differences. Hope that was of some help cheers

Hi Carl, can you give us any more info on this problem? Are you simply using the EManage to bend the AFM voltages? How much correction do you have loaded? What about ignition timing? Bascially any extra info you have would be useful. cheers PS, I would get the oil tested (Castrol Technical do it), that will tell you what metal it is in the oil filter. It would be nice to know if it's not bearing material.

Abolutely, use it on the rotors and the brake pads if they need cleaning. cheers

No I wouldn't, because some idiot would run into them on the race car, that's wheel to wheel racing . Or some crook would steel the tow car just for the rims . Plus I can spend the $2K on something that will make the race car go faster than what saving a handfull of kgs with forged rims will. cheers