Sydneykid

Take it to Hyperdrive and get Lumpy to look at it. If HE says it won't work, then it won't work. cheers

There are 2 sets of shims for each calliper. One is stainless steel and slows the heat transfer from the pad to the piston, and thus to the brake fluid. The other is mild steel and acts as an anti rattle plate by isolating the dust from between the pad backer and the piston. It has been my experience that most squeel from brakes is due to dust, grit and dirt build up between the pad backing plate and the calliper (especially piston). This allows the pad to vibrate at high frequency, shuffle on the rotor and cause the squeel. Occasionally I have seen loose wheel bearings also contribute to this problem in much the same way, by starting the vibration via the rotor. Regardless of whether or not you have brake squeel, it is not a good idea to leave out the stainless shim as this will exacerbate the heat transfer and cause premature brake fuild failure. Bottom, find some shims and put them in and clean the callipers thorougly while you are at it. cheers

Caster = as much as you can get, if you have adjustable radius rods or adjustable bushes installed. Otherwise no adjustment is possible, you are stuck with what it is. Front Camber = 1 degree negative, if you have adjustable bushes installed. Otherwise no adjustment is possible, you are stuck with what it is. Front toe = zero, maybe a litttle toe out (2mm each side) of you want to decrease the understeer Rear Camber = 0.5 degree negative, if you have adjustable bushes installed. Otherwise no adjustment is possible, you are stuck with what it is. Rear toe = zero, maybe a litttle toe in (2mm each side) of you want to decrease the power oversteer. Hope that helps cheers

I hope you told him to get on here <_< cheers

Hi Brendan, I have had my SITC installed for about a month, but I haven't had time to get it on the dyno and tune it. That's not quite correct, I have time to tune it, but no time to fit the exhaust and I figured it was a waste of dyno time until the exhaust was on. I don't like running the standard turbo over 10psi, due to ceramic in the cat disease. I reckon you aren't going to get much over 150 4wkw until the turbo upgrade is done. But you will pick some average power by being able to manipulate the ignition separately from the A/F ratios. cheers

You should know I am very selective, I only enter debates that I can't loose. :lol: Well shouldn't loose, anyway cheers PS; not very many funny faces to choose from on the new forum, got an update planned?

I will also allow water, dust and dirt to get in and kill the coils prematurely. It's there for the same reason that the cam covers are there. Keep the crap out. I have replaced 2 cam belts on RB's that had rock holes in them, one still had the rock embedded in the belt. I have also rebuilt one engine (not an RB) that had the cambelt jump a pulley due to a small stone. It's a gamble, rol the dice if you are feeling lucky (to miss quote a favourate movie "is that 5 bullets or 6"?). cheers

Hi guys, I have been holding back for a while on this, but it raised its ugly head in another thread so......... The lambda sensor on the CES split dump/engine pipe is mounted upside down. This is not recommended by any lambda sensor manufacturer, they accumulate condensation and this causes failure of the lambda sensor. This is from the Bosch lambda sensor installation manual; This is from the Microcraft ECU closed loop tuning manual Personally, I wouldn't use a dump pipe with an upside down lambda sensor mount for that reason. cheers

Wrong offset, you have around 35mm and you need around 25mm. They are Ok for R32GTST and R33GTST owners, so maybe sell them and buy the right offset. cheers

We have an RX7 in the race team, so I do know just a little. PM would be better. cheers

Springs rates are off the shelf Whiteline, I didn't see any need to change them. You are the first guy to ask for dust covers and bump stops, to make it easy for all to access I will post up the prices in the Group Buy first page. Not expensive. cheers

Oh crap (your meaning), I was hoping for a heated debate :lol: cheers

Nice , very good A/F ratios , definitely gotta fit that exhaust on ours now . That damn RB25DET power dip is tricky to get rid off. I really played around with the A/F ratios on ours in the dip area and it helped a lot, but it was a fiddle. cheers

Remapping R32 ECU's is easy and very common. Some workshop (SWAT presumably) remapped the ECU. This usually means slightly too much ignition advance for our 98 ron, they have 100 ron. So be carefull and watch the knock levels. Best to whack it on the dyno and check the A/F ratios as well, they can be a little lean. cheers

mmmmmmmm This is from the Bosch lambda sensor installation manual; This is from the Microcraft ECU closed loop tuning manual I have a few more, but I think you get the drift. cheers

It's not the tubo that is going to limit you, it is the ECU. I haven't been able to get an RB25DET much over 225 rwkw with the standard computer and using piggy backs. The compromises just get too much to tune around. Other items are easy; Tomei 256 Poncams Split dump/engine pipe combo 3.25" exhaust with a real high flow cat Adj exhaust camshaft pulley (Maybe one of Bass Junky's adjusters for the inlet camshaft as well, but I haven't tested mine yet) Pipercros panel filter in the standard airbox S15 JDM manual injectors (444 cc's) R32/33 GTR fuel pump R33/34 GTR intercooler Z32 AFM Unfortunately that's the problem with wanting more than ~210 4wkw, everything needs upgrading. So the cost of the extra 50 4wkw is very high. That's why my target is ~200 4wkw, it is a very economical to achieve power level. cheers

The 250 rwkw is not a problem. The R34GTT makes 265 rwkw with a GCG ball bearing high flow (11.9 at 120mph), best of all it has more power EVERYWHERE than when it was standard. Ian has the same on his R33GTST and he is up to ~270 rwkw. The big winner is the average power, it is very strong from 3,500 rpm to 7,500 rpm. I don't think anyone will get to 300 rwkw though, that's a pretty big ask. cheers

I put the amp in the space where the CD changer was, LHS rear 1/4 panel. The ATTESSA reservoir is in the RHS one. The MB Quart are the DKE116's , HUUUGE improvement over the 15W Clarion twin cones that were there standard. The MB's are 165mm diagonal between the mounting holes and 180 mm total diagonal. Bit tricky to fit as the MB's are perfectly round and the standard speakers are a rounded off square. cheers

That's a good result, do you have the dyno graphs you can post up? cheers

Hahaha Brendan :lol: , I wasn't pulling your leg. I used a Nakamichi head unit with a 120 watt per channnel 4 channel SoundStream amp and 4 X MB Quart coaxials (one in each door). No room for sub's though, I need the rear space for race car stuff. Load carrying is the main reason why I got a Stagea in the first place. That, and its ability to tow the race car. Sound is good, no doof doof in my Stagea. cheers

GTR is 180kgs heavier over the front wheels, GTR springs sit nose up on GTST's. cheers

Oh no, I actually did the stereo first. cheers

Hi familka gtr, you don't happen to have or know where to get a driver's (RHS) wind deflector? I lost mine going down the freeway a few weeks ago, frightened the beegeesus out of me. cheers PS; the cargo cover and net are going fine, best value thing I bought for the Stagea.

They are a bitch to fit, nothing lines up and the turbine is a bit big for a 2.5 litre. cheers

The best value for money handling upgrade is the stabiliser bars. Then the caster bushes Then the shocks Then the camber bushes Then the subframe bushes Then the springs Strange isn't it? Most people change springs first, when most suspension experts will tell you that the standard springs are not so bad. The reality is the standard stabiliser bars are grossly undersized and Skylines (like most Japanese cars) simply don't have anywhere near enough caster. cheers