Sydneykid

A quick picture from Oran Park; cheers

I used a 22mm ring open ender, it was tricky but it worked. The Gallery works OK, I just went to "My Photos" (it's on the left top) then "Upload Photos" (that's on the right top). "Browse" to where the photos are on your hard drive. Then "Upload/Submit". Pretty simple actually. cheers

Hi Alex, this is a "road" suspension set up. There will be others for drag, circuit and drift, they will be more tailored to the activity. I will be doing the engineering on them progressively over the next month or so. The adjustable stabiliser bars mean you can have a high grip road car and a low rear grip drift car. All you do is select the large rear stabiliser bar (24mm) and change the bar settings, firm for road and really really firm for drift. If you have ever driven a drift car on the road in the wet you will know how important that ease of adjustment is. As for a comparison with a simple set of springs and shocks, well there isn't any. You would have to have 2 sets of rear springs and swap them over, soft for road and hard for drift. In addition you wouldn't get the camber and caster adjustment (both essential in a road and drift car) that this kit offers. Lowering and raising at will, is truly a bit of a wank. After the novelty wears off 99% of people don't bother. Plus, on a Skyline, it changes the suspension geometry so you would need to do a wheel alignment everytime you rasied or lowerd the car. Plus resetting the corner weights would be a good idea. That's what we do with the race cars every time. The reality is you won't change anything but the look by raising or lowering, the effect on handling on a double wishbone suspension is mostly because of the wheel alignment changes, not the height itself. The bottom line, if you are going to drive the car mostly on the road and do a little drifting ocassionally then this set up will do the job. If you are going to do a lot of drifting and only drive the car on the road to and from drift events, then I would hang out for a couple of weeks until the drift kit is available. It will also have the alignment bushes and settings for that application. Hope that answered your questions cheers

Yep, that's for the pair. cheers

The Group Buy for the R32GTST is up, prices are posted. cheers

The gallery is working, thanks Prank. Refer above. cheers

The DBA 4000 series rotors come with temperature sensitive paint on the rotor edge. This is the DBA instruction sheet for what the temperature sensitive paint is going to tell you. There are 3 colours (green, orange & red) and they change colour (white, yellow & white) at different temperatures. So I will be able to tell how hot the rotors have been. This will tell me what pads and what brake fluid to use. I will post up some pictures of the temperature paint on the rotors after 2 weeks use and work through what it means to my future choices of pads and brake fluid. cheers

The gallery is working, so here is the picture of the Falcon lambda sensor with the R32GTST plug fitted to the wiring harness using crimp connectors. The 7 day fuel economy test is underway, results tomorrow. cheers

You know I am not knocking your knowledge or experience. But I have had this discussion with heaps of people and they just can't see it. Then I explain it several different ways and eventually one of the explanations makes them go, OH I GET IT! Let's see if I can get you.... Ignore the fact that the stabiliser bar is bolted to the chassis. The left arm is attached to the left wheel and the right arm is attached to the right wheel. The left arm is shorter than right arm. The force required to lift the right arm is the same as the force required to lower the left arm and vice versa. This is because the leverage ratio and the movement ratio are the same. Did that do it for you? cheers

Sorry, maybe they do look OK, and it was just the price that convinced me that I shouldn't. cheers

Stagea Group Buy now completed, refer to the Stagea section for details. R32GTR and R33GTR are currently being engineered. Check the Group Buys section for their release. cheers

This is a long and complex subject, that even the experts can't agree on exactly. Regardless of other minor issues, your example is not exactly correct, you are looking at if as if the the two arms of the stabiliser bar are separate. But they are not, they are joined by the torsion part of the bar itself, so the effect on one arm is passed through the bar to the other arm. The anti roll effect is the action of one wheel working on the other wheel, via the stabiliser bar. It is not the chassis of the car working on the wheel on one side. The bushes on the torsion part of the bar allow the bar to rotate freely and pass the kinetic energy from one side to the other. Most race cars have in cockpit adjustable stabiliser bars and I can assure you that they only adjust one arm of the stabiliser bar to change the anti roll. This is basically the same as using #1 hole on one arm of the bar and #2 hole on the other arm of the bar. There is no argument between the experts on this issue, the only point of argument is the effect of the angles of the links. Which is pedantic in the extreme. cheers

235mm X 45% = 105.75mm 255mm X 40% = 102.00mm That's 3.7% difference, which is on the border line If the rear tyres are more worn than the front tyres then that would make it worse 265mm X 40% = 106.00mm would be better. Have you got some other wheels and tyres of the same size that you could test? cheers

No problems, I have finished the engineering on R33GTST, R32GTST and Stagea. I am currently working on R32GTR and R33GTR, should be finished in a few days. So keep your eye on the Group Buys forum. cheers

Am I allowed to say I prefer the orange ones? cheers