Sydneykid

You can't, Stagea RB25DET's have VVT on the inlet camshaft, so there is no adjustable pulley available. Bass Junky does have an adaptor ring on a Group Buy that enables you change the inlet camshaft timing and still retain the VVT. I have one but I haven't fitted it yet. But a coupe of the guys with R33GTST RB25DET's have and they report good results. cheers

Hi Gary, the Kings "low" spring rates are not too bad, I don't know what the "super lows" are though. 1. I do know that they have a propensity for hitting the bump stops, this combined with the short travel, makes the ride very harsh. 2. Standard shocks are pretty well past it by 60,000K's, and should be replaced. 3. Lowered springs have to have a higher spring rate, and the shocks need to have the valving to control that increased spring rate. 4. Shocks are not right or wrong, they have a "window" that they work OK in. Bilsteins have standard a much wider window than the standard shocks. 5. The effective spring rate and the weight of the car determin that "window". 6. There are bump stops that soften the impact as the springs run out of travel, if they have been doing that for some time they will be worn So you maybe have worn out shocks that are definitely operating outside their window, with springs that are too short in travel hitting the bump stops that are also most likely worn. Using the higher ciclip grooves on the Bilsteins will fix #1, the more appropriately valved Bilsteins will fix #2, #3 and #4, replacing the bump stops at the same time will fix #6. That leaves #5, I have designed the "window" on the Bilstein valving to be pretty wide, so I would be surpised if they don't handle the Kings super lows rate very well. Hope that helps cheers

No, just be aware of the increased potential for coil bind and make sure the bump stops prevent it. Coil springs don't like coil bind. cheers

The only thing that matters is diameter, width is irrelevant. Never had a problem with worn tyres (not illegal) on one end and new tyres on the other. Let's face it, the worn tyres don't last long anyway. cheers

The GTR records as still held by cars with twins though. A lot of the stuff they do is one car at time. So no racing with other people who spoil your line and put you out of the narrow power band. It's all about average power and twins for the same max power will give a higher average over the wider power band. If I was building another 2.6 litre GTR (which we are) I would have twins on it, that said my own R32GTST has a single, but the RB31DET handles that pretty well. cheers

4 holes each side = 7 different settings (that I use). 1/1, 1/2, 2/2, 2/3, 3/3, 3/4, 4/4 1/4 is ~ the same as 2/2, 2/4 is ~ the same as 3/3 etc Due to the angles on the links and the resulting leverage changes, I wouldn't suggest having 2 holes difference eg; 1/3. cheers

If it doesn't have balls, it doesn't go any where near one of my engines. cheers

There is a spare threaded hole (6mm) near the power steering reservoir, that is where I mounted the PFC BKC solenoid in the R32GTST race car. I always wire back to the ECU, that way the protection (fuses etc) works OK. Cheers

I am using a GCG ball bearing high flow of an RB25DET turbo for my power target of 200 4wkw. Should do it easily at around 1 bar. I don't want it hitting full boost at 2,400 rpm though. That's too low an RPM and the standard turbo hits boost on the freeway with just a slight squeeze of the throttle, that unlocks the torque converter and it gazzles gas. Around 2,600-2,700 rpm will be just fine, that way I can hold a steady 110kph without hiiting 0.5 bar every time I tickle the throttle. cheers

Hi Ben, what you have said is correct, overlap is simply the amount of time the 4 valves (2 inlet and 2 exhaust) are open at the same time. That'll teach me to type things in a hurry. cheers

The 4908 rotor is too big in diameter, now that the gallery is working I will put up some pictures. There is no Stagea rear rotor available from DBA, in fact I can only find OEM Nissan rotors. So I have chosen a DBA 4000 series rotor that is exactly right in all but one dimension, OD. What I am going to do (when I am not flat out with race meetings, Philip Island this wekend), is to machine down the rotors to the same diameter as the Stagea rotors (10 minutes in the lathe). Then I will test them for a few weeks, give them some stick, tow the race car around etc. If this harsh testing shows up no issues, I will report back to DBA. They may then choose to do the same within their production process, if so you will be able to buy Stagea rear rotors of the shelf from any DBA outlet. If DBA choose not to do it (due to low demand) then I will organise a Group Buy and do it that way. cheers PS we do this sort of stuff with race car rotors all the time. In fact Tilton, Brembo and AP rotors come in size steps, and they expect you to machine them down to fit your application.

PM sent with some suggestions cheers Hi Chris, the wheel weight is pretty much irrelevant to the spring rate, the tyre profile has an effect though. The wheel weight is more relevant to the damper rate, which has a window. Not a specific spot where it is good, or bad outside that spot. The damper rates will handle 16", 17" and 18" wheels of reasonable weight (lighter is OK). Some 18" wheels are unbelievably heavy and would be pushing the window a bit. cheers

Order received and processed. PM sent on other questions. cheers

Hi guys, are you looking at the max knock reading? I find that to be a waste of time as it is missleading, the max knock may only be for split second, caused by exterior (to the engine) noise. I have had max knock at idle on more than one occasion. You really need to have the trace on and go for a drive with a passenger. That will tell you how often and at what RPM you get what knock readings, then you can make a decsion as to how relevant the max knock reading really is. cheers

This is a Peterson 5 Stage dry sump system as used on a V8SuperCar As you can see it has 4 scavenge stages and 1 pressure stage. This is the tank design we use, it holds 8.5 litres plus about 2.5 litres in the lines, pipework, cooler and filter. If you shop around there are plenty of used dry sump systems available. For a GTR you would be looking at a 4 stage system (scavenge, 2 sump, 1 cylinder head and 1 pressure). I bought one recently for just under $2K complete, pump, belt pulleys, fittings, lines, tank and breather. That $2K is about what an aftermarket RB26 pump and adaptor ring would have cost. I used the standard aircon bracket to mount the pump to the block. Bit of fabrication but not much. As well as perfect lubrication we picked up around 12 bhp from removing the oily mist from the crankcase (stops the crank hitting it on rotation) and around 8 bhp from running a partial vacuum. Also the cam covers no longer fill up with oil, which lowers the CoG, the tank is mounted in the boot with the filter and the cooler under in the airflow. This moves around 15kgs from the front of the car to the rear for improved weight distribution. Hope that was of some help cheers

Don't expect the supplier to change as Yokohama are the only ones with a big enough range of sizes to cover all the vehicles. What we need top push for is compound suitability, some sizes are only available in Super Soft which is really a wet weather compound. Some sizxes are only availalbe in Hard, which puts them at a dissadvantage. Start lobbying your delegate now. cheers

All components are DOT legal, each State has its own interpretations of the ADR's though. I have been involved in a case where a standard Falcon was defected for being too low, so there are no guarantees when it comes to some State's stupidity. The 4 Door is the same, if you carry 4/5 people often, fill the boot with stuff and/or tow things then you may want to go up one circlip groove on the rear spring seats. But that's about it, everything fits perfectly. cheers

Care to post up a picture or two? One from the front and one from the side. I have never seen an R33GTR front stabiliser bar with 4 holes (on each arm), mine has 2 holes. cheers

Ah huh, lotsa G, and then you gave it plenty in first gear to get going. It didn't hit the rev limiter by any chance? cheers

I know this will get lost, but time to say it again; In what farkin gear? With how much bloody load on the engine? After how farkin long? Shoot, I have a GT42 that makes 1 bar at 4,500 rpm, in 4th gear up a long, steep hill after the throttle has been floored for 5 minutes. That sort of quote is MEANINGLESS, it tells me nothing about how the turbo responds. I have driven 3 X Skylines with GTRS's and race team we supply in the UK has tested them on 2 of their cars with 2.7litre engines. Their response is crap, with all sorts of camshafts, different timing and lift, bigger valves, ceramic coating and some serious tuning on the chassis and engine dynos. It wasn't until we stuck them on a 3.1 litre bottom end that they got any decent response out of them. I will be interested on what Gav finds on a 2.8 litre engine, it might be JUST big enough to get away with it. Even then it will need a close ratio dog box with slick shifts to keep things happening over the 1/4. cheers

So basically you don't care that the car will handle like shit, ride like a bucking horse, won't stop, and will loose about 25bhp due to the lousy drive shaft angles. You don't want to drive it because it will get an instant defect, HighUndies will out drag you and MB A180's will out corner you. You just want to sit and look at it. Each to his own I guess. cheers

There ae 3 circlip grooves below the standard circlip groove and 2 above, they are all 8mm apart. So you can go approximately 366mm, 358mm, 350mm, 342mm, 334mm or 326mm. cheers

Hi Brad, that's pretty much spot on, for some reason GTR rear shocks (fork) are $20 each more than GTST (bush). Let me know when you are ready to go, and please remind me about the extra, extra circlip grooves. cheers

Hi Mike, the springs are 25mm lower than the standard 375mm, so that's 350 mm, then there are 3 circlip grooves 8mm apart. Hence 350 mm - 24mm = 326 mm. But hell I can put grooves down to zero if you want, but you have to be very careful. There is not a lot of suspension travel, the front lower control arm moves to a static upward angle (outwards, towards the wheel), this means a dynamic shift to positive camber on suspension compression. Hence a savage jump into understeer when pushed. I have spent several days jacking the suspension up and down, looking for the design limitations. Added to that I have driven so many Skylines that handle very badly, some are downright dangerous. I have then designed the suspension kits to give the best handling and ride. Bottom, line, if you want super low for look that's fine, but don't expect it to handle or ride very well. cheers

As long as you have the shock valving and bar rates specified correctly they should be fine. cheers