Sydneykid

You should also take a look at the Group Buy on at the moment on Whiteline. Bilstein suspension that I have specified for Australian conditions. cheers

Yep, I have used many sets of Ohlins in numerous race cars. What type are you talking about? The genuine Swedish Ohlins or the ones made in Japan under licence? I have modified a couple of sets of Jap Ohlins, lowered the springs rates, increased the height adjustment range etc. I have a set of R32GTR Jap Ohlins that I am working onright now. So please, ask away cheers

Quick update, as you can see from the following picture, the green paint (458 degrees celsius) has started to change colour. And the orange (550 degrees celsius) is slightly more yellow. But the red is still red, not white. I would say I haven't had many brake applications that have resulted in spot temperatures over 500 degrees. I haven't done any real heavy duty towing since I installed the rotors. So I will do another update once I have done that. Cheers

This is the brake hose bracket on the front, because of the lower spring seats on the Bilsteins there are no brackets on the shocks to bolt it to. So I just used a couple of larger cable ties around the shock to hold it in place. There is no real load, it more of a spacer than a load carrying bracket. As you can see I have installed the Whiteline coils, in place of the standard ones I have had with the Bilsteins for the last few months. I will be fitting the R33GTR 17 X 9 X 30 wheels tomorrow with 245/40/17's and I thought it needed to be a bit lower to suite them. I couldn't go any lower on the rear with the standard springs as the offset of the GTR wheels meant the lower spring seat was too close to the inside of the tyre. So I needed to use a shorter coil. Plus I was worried that the standard spring rate wouldn't carry the trailer weight being that low. Since I was changing the rear springs I figured I might as well do the fronts as well. The Whiteline coils give a 30mm lower ride height than the standard springs. Which is a bit low for what we use the Stagea for, so I raised the lower spring seat circlip up one groove. That gave me 355 mm centre of wheel to guard, I reckon it will settle to around 350 mm which should look good with the bigger wheels. I will post up a picture when it is finished. cheers

I thought I might post up some pictures of the standard Stagea springs versus the Whiteline coils. This is the front; As you can see the Whiteline coils are quite bit shorter with a higher spring rate. They have to be shorter by at least 30 mm to give the lower ride height. Plus shorter again to make up for the higher spring rate, as the stronger rate holds the car up higher. This is the rear; As you can see the Whiteline rears have 3 coils of progressive (softer rate), these close up on installation and give a higher effective spring rate. They have to be there so that the spring remains trapped at full droop. Cheers PS; A few guys have asked me about the front brake hose bracket and how to hold it in place. So I have posted up some pictures in the Stagea Suspension thread.

I used an R34GGT intercooler on the Stagea as an upgrade (refer Stagea Section). Cost less than $150 and took about half an hour to fit the intercooler and about another half an hour to make a bigger (alloy) duct. No extra pipework, no extra clamps, no silicone joiners, no cutting bumper bar or supports, no moving horns, power steering or transmission coolers etc etc. For my power target of 200 4wkw, it should do the job just fine. cheers

My guess, the ECU has gone into limp home mode. You shorted out something when you were playing around with the wiring or you have left a connector unpluged. Check the error codes, that will tell you what WAS wrong. Then reset the ECU and take it for a drive, check for error codes, that will tell you what is wrong NOW. Then fix what it is that the error codes are telling you is wrong. If you don't know how to rear the error codes or reset the ECU then do a search. Plenty of info on the forum. PS. turbo timers are a waste of oxygen, just make it easier for someone to steal your car. What dod you have a turbo timer for? Cooling dowwn the turbo? What about a gearbox timer? Or a brake timer? They will be just as hot as your turbo. Cool it all down, do a slow lap of the block before you park it. cheers

Tell your tuner the Gibson GTR's ran 9.4 to 1, and that was 12+ years ago. ECU's have improved immensely since then. Lowering compression ratio is very old hat and low tech, tell him to get out the of the 80's. cheers

The engine mods are probably only half of the reason, the VL weighs ~150 kgs les than your Skyline, that's why is accelerates faster. The VT is ~150 kgs heavier again, same result. cheers

Hi Ken, they are Proflex (Murray Coote). It really depends on your budget. We have used DMS (40 mm and 50 mm), for the price the 40mm are OK. The remote cannister DMS are almost the same price as Proflex. Personally I prefer the Proflex, as long as someone else is paying the bill. If someone really rich is paying the bill then we use Ohlins, the real Swedish ones, not the Japanese road car ones. cheers

Lost links when the forum was upgraded, fixed now, thanks cheers

Yep, well known low end product. The off the shelf springs rates are far too high, the shocks valving is very simplistic and the adjustment only changes rebound damping not bump valving. There are a few reviews on the forum, do a search for other peoples comments. cheers

No, but I talk to HER occasionally I don't think SHE listens though So far I have communicated with around 10 -12 guys running the Jaycar IEBC and/or DFA. All have reported great success. But you really do need to know how to build electronics kits, I have fixed 3 that guys have had problems with. Mostly simple stuff, like missing links or IC's the wrong way around. cheers

The Standard Stagea fuel pump supplies 135 litres per hour at 12 volts. If you run a relay and a separate power supply back to the battery they will flow 160 litres per hour at 13.8 volts. That's enough to supply 6 X 444 cc injectors which = 444 bhp or 250 4wkw. Regardless of what fuel pump you use, you should always run a relay and a separate power supply back to the battery, the standard wiring harness doesn't handle the extra current. Just use the standard wiring to switch the relay and upgrade the earth wiring and run a 30 amp fuse and wiring to the battery positive. cheers

Some suggestions; The Controller has to be plugged into the IEBC before you turn the power on to the IEBC. Did you test the IEBC before you put it in the car? On the Controller, have you put the hidden link in? It goes under the DB25 socket. A lot of people have missed it. Do you have the right cable? There are so many DB25 cables that have twists in the pin outs. These are the common issues I have seen, hope it is of some help. cheers

You may not be able to simply change the spring rates, the damping rate in the shocks are valved to suite the springs rates that it currently has. If you change the spring rates you might have to change the dampening rate as well. Compare the total cost with the Group Buy on Whiteline and Bilstein. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=88141 cheers

Anticlockwise for softer, clockwise for harder. Adjusting the rebound damping may not help, Teins usually come with rediculously high spring rates. cheers

I thought Fulcrum where the Australian agents for Tein, www.fulcrumsuspension.com cheers

If you take a look at the rear springs in the car with the full weight on it, you will find that there is no progression in the rate. ie; the closely wounds coils are touching each other. They are only pregressive to keep them trapped at full droop. The taper at the bottom of the rear spring is to fit the smaller bottom spring seat, which Nissan use to clear the inside of the tyre. It does nothing for the spring rate. What's the difference between the "Japanese offering" and the standard Skyline? They are both coil overs, the coil spring coil goes around the outside of the shock. Height and/or shock rate adjustment is a feature of some coil overs. Whether they have height adjustment (via screw or cirlcip) or no height adjustment is irrelevant, it's still a coil over. Whether it has adjustable rebound damping or not, it's still a coil over, etc etc. The race GTR's have both bump and rebound adjustment as well as external cannisters and screw height adjustment top and bottom. But it's still a coil over. The term "coil over conversion" is most commonly used when a separate spring and shock (like the rear of a Commodore) is replaced by a combined spring and shock unit (a coil over). It doesn mean taking out one coil over and replacing it with another coil over. cheers

Let's start off with..... standard Skylines have "coil overs" ie; the springs go around the shocks. So the Whiteline/Bilstein spring/shocks are "coil overs". The Teins probably have screw thread adjustable lower spring seats so you can change the height, but they are still coil overs. They might even have adjustable bump valving on the shocks, but they are still "coil overs". If you want to be able to adjust the height a lot and know what shock rebound damping you need, then the Teins may be of use to you. If you just want to put the springs/shocks in the car at the height you want and forget about playing with heights and damping, then spending the extra money is waste for you. My thoughts on Teins (and most Jap springs and shocks) are pretty well known. They are excessively harsh (too high spring rates) and the shock valving is simplistic at best. This results in uncomfortable ride and poor handling/traction on Australian roads. What I have done with this kit is to use suitable spring rates, shock vlaving and stabiliser bar rates together with adjusted suspension geometry to give a superior ride/handling package. Bottom line, there is no comparison, spend $2100 on the Group buy Kit and you will have a Skyline that rides more comfortably and handles far better than it would by spending $2100 on a set of Jap shocks and springs. cheers

At 25% they are not much different from the Whiteline springs and would comfortably fit into the window of suitability for the shock valving. The Whiteline front springs are linear rate, I would never ever use true progressive springs in the front. You get too much variation in response from steering inputs. The Whitleine rear springs are progressive, to keep them trapped at full droop. cheers