Sydneykid

Yes, too much camber. cheers

This a later post on this subject; As you can see I ended up not getting the tow bar from Karasel, they jerked me around too much. Plus they wouldn't go over 750kgs, which is around the Jap tow bar capacity (Skylines and Stageas). The only issue if have had so far is the tow bar bracket on the LHS gets hit by the standard muffler loops (the ones for the rubber o'rings that hold the muffler up). It only happens when the exhaust is really hot and expands (in length). When I (finally) fit the 3.25" exhaust I will make sure I leave enough space for exhaust system expansion. That's why I did the tow bar before the exhaust, I knew it would be a tight fit. cheers

That is a cheap price, there is at least a full days labour in making up the kits and that's if you are experienced at making up electronic kits and have the right tools. For more information on these great kits pop over to the Stagea section and have a look at the Jaycar DFA and IEBC thread. My Stagea achieved a 30% increase in power from tuning with these and that's with zero mechanical mods. Hope you sell them, I want to see other peoples results. cheers

As it gets hot, the auto slips a bit more, hence you tend to get slightly lower power readings. Coupla kw, not a big deal. cheers

Weight is more of an issue for springs, the Stagea springs are not the same as R33GTST rear springs. The R33GTST shocks will fit, they are the right dimensions, but the valving is not really suitable for the Stagea springs. The Stagea Suspension kit in the Group Buy uses Bilstein R33 GTST rears, but I have specified differnt valving to suite the Stagea spring rates and stabiliser bars. cheers

Suggestions to your questions follow; 1. I checked it at several voltages, it's not that hard as you are measuring comparing in and out voltages. It is easier with 2 people though, one to hold the rpm constant and one to check the voltages. 2. The lack of an AFM signal tells the ECU that there is no airflow, the ECU doesn't care what the TPS says in this case. No airflow = no fuel required. So the ECU turns off the fuel. Before you ask, this is not lean running, it is the same as the ECU cutting the fuel on coasting/overun. There is no detonation and no chance of damage to the engine. The ECU then adds fuel when the engine needs it to idle, which is RPM sensitive. You will also get a dash warning, due to the lack of an AFM signal. If you don't reconnect the AFM wires (bypass the DFA) the ECU will go into limp home mode (super rich and 2,500 rpm limit) and you can drive it that way. 3. There is enough room above the glovebox for the wiring harness, no need to drill holes. Yep, the ECU is a tight fit allright. 4. All of my wiring for the SITC, DFA and IEBC was done at the ECU, I did not run wires to anywhere else. They don't need a constant power supply, they remember the mapping with no power. They only need power when the ECU needs power, so I wired them in parrallel to the ECU (switched) power supply and earth. Hope that was of some help cheers

I don't recommend using spherical bearings on a road car. Far too much NVH transmitted and they wear out real fast and then knock even more. The Jap tie rod manufactures tend to use unique spherical bearings, so you can't just pop into your local CBC Bearing shop and buy replacements. Even when you can, they cost more than the tie rod did in the first place. If you want/need more caster then adjustable bushes are a much better solution for a road car. cheers

Sorry, I logged off early last night and 20 PM's arrived and filled the inbox. It's OK now. Yep, the Kings "lows" are similar in rate and height to the Whiteline springs used in the kit. I don't know about Kings "superlows" though, haven't tested them. cheers

Hi Dave, around 350 mm centre of wheel to guard is the lowest height I would recommend. This allows enough travel to absorb the bumps and doesn't upset the suspension geometry so the tyre wear is good. The Bilsteins in the Group Buy come with extra lower spring seat circlip grooves (have a look at the Stagea suspension thread for pictures), this means you can adjust the height by 50 mm if you find the 350 mm is too low foryour usual driveways. Cheers Gary

What Predator said, and use a single hex socket, not a double. cheers

Springs and shock will do a.) and b.) and the stabiliser bars will do c.). If you lower it you will need to adjust the rear camber. If you lower it a lot you will have to adjust the front camber as well. If you don't it will wear the insides of the tyres quite quickly. The front caster kit is a must thave, you won't believe how much a few extra degrees of caster improves the handling. The only item that I think you COULD live without would be the rear subframe alignment kit, but at $100 and 20 minutes to fit, its not a big deal anyway. cheers

Actually cheaper than that Emanual, you have left the freight in. Orders over $500 are freight free. PM sent to confirm the pricing. cheers

Suggestions to your questions follow; 1. I got mine to within 0.01 volts, I did the final trimming in the car. 2. No AFM signal = no airflow, so the engine stops. Actually it drops to idle, doesn't actually stop. Then you just join the DFA input and output wires together and drive home with standard tune. It's a good "limp home" safeguard. 3. I don't remember putiing the link in, so I guess it must be in fine mode. Tuning it didn't need a large amount of correction, fine mode was plenty enough. Plus I liked the extra accuracy. cheers

For the guys that have ordered kits, all of the items are ready except for the springs. They are due late this week, we have had to wait for the scheduled production run at the manufacturer. Yes, "we", as I am going to stick a set in my Stagea to replace the standard springs. I already have the rest of the kit. I am going to put the R33GTR rims (17 X 9 +30) on the Stagea and they were too close to the rear, lower spring seat for me to take any more height out of it. I could have used the (standard Bilstein rear) pressed steel lower spring seats instead of the alloy ones (standard Bilstein front). That would have let me use one extra groove (lower), but it would have not quite been enough to get the height right. So it's Whiteline spring time for me. StageZilla, that is something you may have to look out for, depending on the offset of the wheels you are using. cheers

SOLD cheers

Hi Andrew, we use MAP based ECU's on N/A race engines (eg; V8SuperCars) otherwise I would have to run 8 X AFM's. On the SuperTourers I would have to run 4 X AFM's, one for each throttle body. Every little tiny bit of restriction is avoided at all costs, so we have gigantic air inlets with huge filters. On a turbo charged engine there is one air inlet (for each turbo) so it is not so much of an issue. Plus tiny restrictions on the inlet to the compressor mean nothing, the turbo has more than enough airflow to make the power target within its efficiency island. On a 100% race engine I really don't give a rats about cold start and run, hot start, air con / power steer / electrical load compensation etc. All the stuff that makes an AFM driven ecu superior on a road car is pretty much irrelevant on a race car. Plus AFM voltage ramp tables are hard to program from scratch with altitude / humidity / temperature compensation. This is not a problem when using a Power FC, Apexi have done it all for us. This is not a simple, one is ALWAYS better than the other. Horses for courses as they say. cheers

Yeh, that's the $1M question, if I knew how much they were going to be I would have finished the Group Buy and posted it up already. I am hoping for 15%, so that will make them around $800 for a set of 4. There may be a little bit more for machining the rears to size. Group Buys I arrange are via direct transfer, it makes the process much easier and the price cheaper. cheers

Hmm, why are you going to this amount of trouble? If you want to put the cams back in the same place, just mark them. You are going to change the timing on the dyno anyway, so why does it matter where they are now? cheers

There is currently a Group Buy on R33GTST Whiteline/Bilstein suspension, great kit for road use. Check out the Group Buy Forum. cheers

Try the 1250 part numbers, they are more common than 1398. Do you need the rotors desperately? I am working on a Group Buy for DBA rotors and it is going to take a few weeks as I have to complete the tests on the machined to size rears. cheers

Toe is as per the thread, Zero on the front and 2mm in on each side at the rear. If it understeers, add a little toe out to the front. If it power oversteers on corner exit add a little more rear toe in. If it is reluctant to head for the apex on intial turn in (and it isn't power oversteering on corner exit) then you can try a liitle toe out on the rear. Yep, you are aiming for consistent temperatures across the tread. cheers

There are pictures of the springs in the original post. Kings say 30 mm lower than standard. I measured them in an R33GTST at 355 mm centre of wheel to guard. After a few days driving they would settle to around 350 mm centre of wheel to guard. If you want to know how low that is, go out and measure your car. Standard is around 375 mm centre of wheel to guard after a few years, when brand new they are 380 mm centre of wheel to guard. That's where Kings get the 30 lower than standard measuremtn from. As the add says I put them in an R33GTST for testing of height and rate. They have a couple of scratches from the spring compressors and a bit a of rubber from the top spring seats. They have been driven for about 2 hours, in the dry. cheers

Damn good, but after 30+ years of racing I have pretty good throttle control. Let's face it with 265 rwkw and power from 4,000 rpm to 8,000 rpm I hardly ever meet a car that I realy have to try to beat anyway, up to the speed limit of course. The roads in Sydney are never flat, so the suspension is very important in gaining the necessary traction via improved tyre contact with the road surface. Then there is always a corner, where the gap just grows expedentially. cheers

Item: Kings R32/33GTST Front Low Springs part #KDFL101 Location: Sydney, but free freight to anywhere in Australia Item Condition: Almost new, used for testing only, slight marks from spring compressors and rubber from the top springs seats Reason for Selling: Only required for testing Price and Payment Conditions: $100 including delivery by Toll Priority to anywhere in Australia Extra Info: Very similar height and rate to the Whiteline 73175 as used in the Sydneykid suspension kits. Gives a centre of wheel to guard measurement of around 355mm. Contact Details: PM is OK Payment to; Account Name Jamex Australia Bank StGeorge Bank BSB 332-086 Account No 551029694 cheers