Sydneykid

I have never heard of an engineer's certificate for roadworthy of a tow bar in NSW. I have a receipt that says " one 1500kg tow bar", that's all. I have never had a problem with registration renewal on any car with a tow bar. I have had well over 20 cars with tow bars and they have been inspected for rego, both blue slip and pink slip, 30 plus times. Is this an ACT only thing? cheers

An interesting thread.........a few extra things to think about; A fast car is a combination of all of its components, the engine on its own is not very fast at all. So when choosing the engine componets you MUST keep in mind the drive line. For example, it is pretty stupid to have an 11,500 rpm engine with standard gearbox and diff ratios. You will end up driving around in 3rd gear all the time and you won't get much out of 2nd over the 1/4. On the circuit, the top speed will be aerodynamically unreachable. So, make sure you consider the impact of the engine's rpm range on what you are going to use the car for and then select gearbox and diff ratios and tyre sizes to match. The whole package is what makes one car perform in line with its dyno power and another car (with the same dyno power) fail dismally and not achieve anywhere near its potential. You should also keep in mind the effect of the power band on the clutch. Launching an engine that requires 7,000 rpm to spool up the turbos requires a lot different clutch combination than an engine that launches at 4,500 rpm. The level of clutch control required is also quite different and should not be overlooked. The top end components required for an 11,500 rpm 800 bhp engine are very different to those required for an 8,500 rpm 800 bhp engine. Valves, valve springs, retainers, collets, buckets and even shims are all living in a very different environment. Don't overlook the necessary changes in the water pump, oil pump, alternator, power steering pump and airconditioning compressor to accommodate the higher rpm. Add it all up and you will be surprised how much more an 11,500 rpm 800 bhp car costs compared to an 8,500 rpm 800 bhp car. cheers

Whoever told you that only gave you half the story, as usual. R33's run lower voltage at idle, so the fuel pump doesn't keeping pumping excessive fuel around and heating it up needlessly in the engine bay. They revert to normal voltage above idle, that's the problem, the standard wiring limits the "normal" voltage. The Walbro 255 lph pump only pumps 255 lph at 13.8 volts, at 12 volts it pumps ~210 lph and at 11 volts ~190 lph. The usual voltage at the pump we see is 11.2 volts when the standard wiring is used. That's at full rpm, max charge from the alternator and nothing else other than the engine running (eg; no aircon, no stereo). Plenty of other report the same, do a search for more details. So if you are still using the standard fuel pump wiring you paid for a 255 lph pump and your are only getting ~190 lph out of it. cheers

The stabilser bar rates are different, the camber and toe settings are, of course, different and the rear sub frame alignment settings are different also. The R32GTR shocks and springs will be quite a while, they haven't even made a prototype yet. cheers PS; PM me if you like, I will let you know what the kit will be otherwise.

I did both front and rear, huge improvement, well worth it. cheers

I get my lipping done at GCG, takes about 10 seconds per lip. Mick's Metalcraft has one, as does Performance Metalcraft, so I guess all of the pipework fabricators would have one. So much easier than welding on a wire loop. cheers

Why are you guys going for stainless steel intercooler pipework? Aluminium is so muchcheaper, lighter and easier to work with. For example rolling lips for hose retention is easy with aluminium pipe, real pain in the ass with stainless. cheers

My 20 Cents worth..... Don't waste your time and money, there is no evidence that the R33GTR N1 oil pump does anything better than the standard R33GTR oil pump. Other than have a stronger spring in the pressure relief valve. It doesn't flow any more oil, it doesn't have superior strength metallurgy, it doesn't have wider drive flanges, the oil galleries are exactly the same size etc etc. It isn;'t thibker wider fatter or even heavier. It doesn't help if you have an oil cooler and/or remote filter because it doesn't flow any more oil. Extra (maximum) pressure is not going to help the bearings live longer. Zero oil pressure due to surge is still ZERO oil pressure, an N1 oil pump is not going to help that. If you have already wasted your time and money on a N1 pump, then please let me know and I will buy your perfectly good R33GTR standard pump off you, stick a 5 psi stronger relief spring in it and I too will have an N1 pump. cheers

I know I am no wizard at making up cables, so I figured I had better do that early in the assembly process. So last night I made up all of the cables; The PC cable was pretty easy, only the 9 pin plug had to be attached. I used a cigarette lighter plug and cable I had lying around for the power cable, just soldered the 2A1 plug on the end of the cable. The cable for the lambda sensor is quite tricky, the instructions are good, but many pages when printed out. I had to refer back to the TE web site a couple of times, as the instructions printing doesn't include the attachments/links. So I had to go back and print each one of those separately, that was time consuming. I think TE must believe that I would be making up the kits in front of my PC, but that's not the case. I don't fancy soldering and heat shrinking on my desk in the office. Tonight I will get into making the 2A1 itself. cheers

We sold one with a race car recently, so this is a replacement. We only have 2, the other one is a Motec which stays in the dyno room (under pain of death). I wanted the 1meg of data logging. cheers

Very impressed with Tech Edge's response to the 2.7 m cable instead of 4.0 m cable error. Sent email advising of problem 3.30 pm Saturday afternoon. Received email response Monday morning at 8.45 am. Promised overnight replacement which arrived today (Tuesday) lunch time via Express Post. A prepaid, addressed, Express Post Envelope was included for me to return the 2.7m cable. Now that's good recovery from a problem. cheers PS; I have not told Tech Edge that I am writing this review, so this sort of response should be considered what anyone will receive.

Have a read of this thread, it covers most stuff on fitting an adjustable exhaust camshaft pulley to an RB25DET. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=73824 cheers

Suggestion to your questions follow; 1. Very accurate 2. There is a thread on here somewhere with the common injector lag times listed, do a search, I am sure the Nismos were on the list. From memory they were pretty close to the standard injectors (ie ~0.5mS at 14 volts) 3. Yes, you have made a lot of changes all at once. 4. Yes, ditto Some other suggestions; A. why have you chosen 78.5% as the injector compensation? Have you just done the simple 550/444 calc? You can't do that because you are running higher than standard fuel pressure (36 psi versus 43 psi). So ether reduce the compensation (to around 70%) or the fuel pressure (to 36 psi), whichever is more appropriate. B. While we are on that subject, why have you set the fuel pressure at 43 psi? The Nismo injectors flow 550 cc's at the standard fuel pressure (36 psi). C. The ECU is not going into closed loop because the A/F ratios are outside the lambda sensor's range. You have to get over 10 to 1 before the S&N lambda sensor has any accuracy at all. Hope that was of some help cheers

There is more load (resistance) on an engine in 4th gear than in the lower gears. The more load an engine has, the more exhaust it produces. The more exhaust it produces, the faster it spins the turbine. The faster the turbine spins, the more airflow the compressor produces. The more airflow the compressor produces the higher the boost potential Remember that boost is simply a measure of resistance to airflow, not a measure of the airflow itself. cheers

Non resistor spark plugs can cause interference to the electronics, particulary the stereo. I have seen ECU's that don't like non resistor plugs as well. cheers:)

Does that mean only pin #18 has output? The R32 and R33 Power FC's are the same, and R32GTR's have Pin #104 and #106 the same as R33GTR's. On R32GTST and R33GTST only pin #104 is used as they only have 2 fuel pump voltages. cheers

Sorry for the delay in completing this post, we had an engine to finish building. To get around this problem we use one of these in the race cars; For around $100 they are a good investment if you are regularly going to the track. Especially in summer, sitting in the que waiting for a run with a low fuel level in the tank (no sense carrying excessive weight). Note that these are not designed for high pressure (fuel injection) so I use them in between the low pressure (lift) pump and the swirl tank. On a car with no swirl tank I have seen one used on the return from the engine to the tank, so that it's not under pressure either. Never use one between the high pressure fuel pump and the engine, they will not handle the pressure. On the road GTR's the FPCM takes care of that for you, it reduces the flow (voltage to the pump) according to engine load. On a GTST you have to make up something similar. I have done this in the past by using a Jaycar kit #KC5377 (~$30), connecting it its input to the AFM input pin on the ECU plug. At low air flows (say up to 2.5 volts) it drops the fuel pump voltage down via a resistor, which keeps the fuel flow slow. Once the airflow gets over 2.5 volts the fuel pump gets its full dose of 13.8 volts. I have also seen this sytem used when you have 2 fuel pumps and only one is needed at low engine load, the second pump kicks in when necessary at higher engine loads. This is the circuit (courtesy of Performance Electronics for Cars, get one from Jaycar, for $20 its worth having one as a reference); Note that the kit only has a 5 amp relay on the board, so you need to use a larger (30 amp minimum) relay in the circuit for the larger aftermarket fuel pumps. Hope that helps cheers

Pump Wiring - You really should look at upgrading the wiring (with a relay and a separate power supply direct form the battery) if you are using the fuel pump to its rated capacity. This will give you some overhead if you ever need it. The downside is you will get hot fuel in traffic as more fuel gets pumped around than the engine needs. If you don't need the fuel pump's full capacity, then retaining the factory ECU controlled fuel flow is a good idea. Power FC - I believe by grounding the negative side of the FPCM you may have over ridden the voltage control from the ECU. You really need to check the ECU pinouts. Pin #104 and Pin #106 are the FPCM voltage outputs, it sounds like maybe you have only one of the 2 working. I would check them with a multimeter at the ECU plug with both the standard ECU and the Power FC at idle and with some load on the engine. Hope that was of some help cheers

There are quite a few people who have had no problem selling there Japanese brand suspension and taking advantage of the Group buy pricing on the Whiteline/ Bilstein kits. Lots of guys like the really firm ride, so there are buyers out there who will take them off your hands. cheers

You have the wrong model of Power FC for your car. The FPCM controls the voltage supplied to the fuel pump. This changes the amount of fuel pumped to the engine according to how much fuel the engine needs. For example at idle the fuel pump voltage is lowered, so that excessive fuel is not sent to the engine and then returned to the tank. This avoids overheating the fuel by pumping it around and around, to and from the hot engine bay when it is not needed. Cheers

Does the manifold have RB25 or RB26 flange pattern? cheers

PM sent with updated production schedule. cheers

You don't really expect to have TRACTION with those spring rates. The tyres will be leaping from each small bump to the next small bump. Because the spring rate is so hard, the tyres will have to flex themselves in an attempt to absord the impact energy. This dramatically deminishes their ability to follow the road surface. The chassis will recoil off the spring rates so much it will flex substantially as well. The shocks will have to have serious rebound damping to control the spring rate. Consequently as the chassis flexes, the shocks will tend to lift the wheels off the ground. cheers