Sydneykid

I can't get into the minds of the Nissan engineers, so I don't know for sure why they did it. So all I can do is apply the usual suspension rules and hypothesise. What I do know is the standard rear stabiliser bar is way too small (hence the need for such a large aftermarket upgrade). The usual reason for using such a small rear bar is to eliminate power off oversteer, which the early ATTESA doesn't handle very well. So my hypothsesis would be that the engineers used a slightly higher rear spring rate to compensate for the lighter rear bar. This has the effect of holding down the inside front under cornering (no front LSD standard remember) similar to what a stabiliser bar would do. But without the power off oversteer. Also the early ATTESA is a bit slow to react to rear wheelspin and kick some drive to the front. When it does send some drive to the front it is a large lump of torque fairly quickly. So any extra traction that the front can get, by limiting the rearwards weight transfer, is good. So heavier rear springs would be an answer to that problem. Unless you upgrade the rear stabiliser bar and/or the bump valving in the rear shocks, then you will suffer from the same problems as I think the Nissan engineers recognised. Some adjustment of the ATTESA would also help of course. Simpistically thowing higher rate front springs at it, makes an R32GTR a pig understeerer. As many people have found out. Unfortunately you get what you pay for in shocks, simplistic valving (even if it is adjustable) is still simplistic valving. That's where the cost (not necessarily the selling price) differences are in shocks, everything else costs much the same. But more valves = more cost. From memory the fronts are a bit over 200 lbs per inch and the rears a little under 200 lbs per inch. Not me, you have to be very carefull in the suspension set up to avoid understeer. We spend most of our time dialing out the understeer, very rarely do we have an oversteer problem. And if we do, it can be fixed with a small twist of the torque split controller. Realistically R32GTR's have crap weight distribution, they are % heavier at the front than many front wheel drive cars. If you barge up to a corner and yank on the wheel they will always understeer. It took quite a while for the drivers to optimise the slow in, power on early and fast out technique that it takes to make a GTR do fast lap times, lap after lap. The HICAS is biased towards understeer, at all costs, as it is safe for the Wally's. It really has to go, honestly it is the first thing I remove on any Skyline. Hope the above was of some help cheers

Jamex will be shipping the bar to you tomorrow, the Toll Priority con note number has been advised via PM. cheers

Similar to what the guys have already posted, lots of caster and R type tyres and the steering is still not heavy. In fact I reckon it is a bit light if anything. What toe and camber settings do you have? What size tyres and offset wheels? A 180 is hell of a lot lighter over the front wheels than a Skyline, plus the double wishbone suspension generates more grip than the simple struts in a 180, wider tyres etc. So I would always expect a Skyline to have more steering feel than a 180. cheers

Centre of wheel to guard measurements are the key. Skylines handle best around 355 mm front and 345 mm rear. Measure yours and set it up at that height, then get the 4 wheel alignment checked, particularly toe and camber. cheers

The Group Buy has sold quite a few of these, everone has been very happy with the result. The part numbers used are as per the initial Group Buy post, 73157 and 70191. The Whiteline hard copy catalogue has the same part numbers. The .PDF format catalogue on the Whiteline site has the same part numbers. Based on the above, I can safely assure you that 73157 and 70191 are correct. cheers

The Bilsteins will work perfectly with the Whiteline springs, they are the ones I specified in the Group Buy. The Bilsteins don't have external adjustment, they don't need it. The valving is sophisticated enough to handle the uprated spring and bar rates, whilst maintaining a sporty, but not harsh ride. Cheers

Yep I was worried the first time I did mine, but I compared it to the standard spring and bottom spring seat and they were the same. Refer to the following picture; I have had mine in for around 5,000 k's so far and no problems. The standard front springs have rubber squeak stoppers on the last coil, if it is in good condition you may want to transfer it over to the Whiteline coils. It may help with squeaks, although I don't have any, but it will fill up some of the space and help centre the coil. Just slice it around the inside diameter, carefully peal it off and then put some glue on it to hold it onto the Whiteline coil, Cheers

Hi guys I wil try and answer the stabiliser questions in this post. The angle of the adjustable link rod is OK, it is totally normal for adjustable stabilsier bars. The polyurethane bushes are designed to handle it. Whiteline makes the stabiliser bars as a copy of the standard bar shape. The extra diameter of the bar means that the dimensions have to change. The most critical is the total width, usually measured to the insides of the arms. It should be 1045 mm (+ or - 5mm) for the Stagea rear, picture follws; The next critical measurement is the inside of the U bend, it should be 855mm (+ or - 3mm), measured by sliding the D bushes as far out as they will go and still remain parrallel; picture follws; I have seen a few bars where the bending machine was set for outside dimensions on the U bend, like the one above. This means they are 16mm (8 mm X 2) too narrrow accross the U bend ie; around 840 mm. Please measure your bar, if it is around 840 mm (not 855 mm) then I will have to get Whiteline to replace your stabiliser bar. The manufacturing lead time is normally 4 to 5 working days, plus 1 or 2 days shipping. Since this is a faulty part replacement I may be able to get them to do it faster. Please PM and I will arrange it for you. Hope that was of some help cheers

Hi guys, sorry I have been away from my computer for a couple of days, I will try and sort out the confusion; 1, The front spring part number is 83159 2. The rear pring part number is 70191 If you have already taken them out the box don't worry. The part numbers are printed on the white tags stuck onto the last coil. The are production numbers 20191 and 23159. Logically 20191 = 70191 = rear and 23159 = 83159 = front. I have taken a few pictures to help; The most confusion seeams to be the rear springs so I will start there; The spings have a tag on them like this with the above part number on it. It is usually on the top of the rear spring; The first job is to fit the shock top protector, this gives the bump stop something flat to hit against. It is a tight fit so tap it on with a rubber or plastic hammer; The bottom of the rear spring looks like this; The rear Bilstein bottom spring seat looks like this, Some guys have put it on upside down, it goes on with the machined side downwards. You can see the groove for the circlip to fit into. The spring fits onto the spring seat and should look like this; The top standard rubber fits onto the top of the spring like this. Don't worry it looks funny, but when you bolt in all together its OK. The standard bump stop and dust cover go on like this, slide it down to the step in shock shaft; Then install the stepped collar, like this; The steel bump stop retainer goes on next; Then the rubber mount, this way up Then the top steel mount; Then the top rubber, the cup washer and the nut; Hope that is of some help, I will work though the other questions in following posts cheers

My 20 cents; 1. Standard shocks are not so good at controlling standard springs. So 25% higher rate springs will cause the tyres to jump from small bump to small bump. The shocks need to control the springs to maximise the tyre contact. 2. Stiffer stabiliser bars just accentuate the lack of damping/control from the shocks. Add the 2 together and you have a recipe for poor traction at both ends, which is what you are experiencing. Personally I wouldn't be looking for other reasons until the obvious shock problem is sorted The spring rates are not ideal either, I never run higher spring rates in the rear than in the front with upgraded stabiliser bars. If you are running the BNF28Z front and BNR26Z rear you have increased the rear antiroll by about 3 times what you have increased the front. This obviates the need for stronger rear (than front) spring rates. If you want to test this, try puting the standard rear springs in. If you are looking at doing a reasonable amount of track time I would be looking for something a bit better than Tein shocks. Hope that helps cheers