Sydneykid

I have never seen a PUSH to PULL conversion, the ones I have seen/used are all PULL to PUSH conversions. This is so you can use the more common (ie; cheaper) PUSH style of pressure plate. Why do you want to convert a PUSH to PULL? B) I can't think of one reason why I would bother. PUSH clutches are more common and much cheaper, PUSH gearboxes are far more common. cheers

Sorry, I apologise unreservedly. cheers

Time for some decent suspension? cheers

Be carefull with S15 SR20DET injectors, the Australian spec S15 injectors are 370 cc's, same as RB25DET injectors. What you need are 444cc injectors from a JDM manual (not auto). cheers

Is that fuel tuning only? Or ignition tuning as well? cheers

The spring in the wastegate actuator is 10 psi cheers

The top fitting on the solenoid is the input from the boost supply. The bottom fitting on the solenoid is the output that goes back inot the inlet just before the turbo. cheers

Interesting concept, just an FMIC, panel filter and an exhaust. Not much of a power increase there, maybe 20 rwkw at best. The real power increase from a turbo car comes from increasing the boost. There is at least another 25rwkw available from increasing the boost to 10 psi. I achieved a 30 rwkw increase from the Stagea RB25DET by tuning (DFA) and boost increase (IEBC) with zero mechanical mods. That's why mechanical mods and no tuning seems a strange choice to me. Whatever floats your boat cheers

Nope, sorry, wrong answer, go to the back of the class. RB20DET injectors are high impedance (13 ohms), top feed 270 cc's RB26DETT injectors are low impedance (3-4 ohms), top feed 444 cc's RB25DET injectors are also high impedance (13 ohms), side feed 370 cc's RB25DET Neo injectors are also high impedance, top feed 370 cc's (but a totally different shape to the RB20/26 injectors) CA18DET injectors are low impedance (3 ohms), top feed (so if you want to use them in an RB20DET you will need a GTR resistor pack or 6 X 10 ohms resistors, one for each injector.) SR20DET S15 JDM manual injectors are high impedance (13 ohms), side feed 444 cc's (So they make a good upgrade for RB25DET's) Don't bother with local SR20DET injectors or autos, they are only 370 cc's. Hope that clarifies cheers

Front shocks are the same, but the rears are VERY different. The R32 rear shocks are much shorter as the top mounts are well below the rear parcel shelf in an R32. The R33 top mounts are at the the same height as the rear parcel shelf, so they are much longer. cheers

Interesting, how did you measure the voltage drop? On a 1996 R33GTR, if I measure the voltage at the positive terminal on the battery with the engine running at 6,500 rpm on the dyno under load, it reads 13.8 volts. If I measure the voltage at the positiive terminal on a Bosch 044 fuel pump, same conditions, it reads 12.3 volts with the standard wiring harness. If I measure the voltage at the positive terminal on the same fuel pump under the same conditions, it reads 13.8 volts with a relay and a 30 amp wiring (with fuse) back to the battery. With a lift pump, surge tank and a pressure pump, the voltage drop is even more noticeable via the standard wiring. You can even fell the wiring harness get hot when the pumps are working hard. cheers

The standard injectors in many Skylines are JECS. So what that ad means is someone has taken a set of standard R33GTST injectors and had them high flowed by someone. So the questions you need to ask is not "how good are JECS injectors", but "how good is the high flow job?" cheers

Is the 276L/H at 12 volts or 13.8 volts? Do you have a separate relay and wiring back to the battery for the fuel pump? Or are you still using the factory wiring? cheers

Was that an AFM or MAP sensor driven Supra? cheers

The problem is the boost drop off, the R34GTT with the GCG ball bearing high flow makes 265 rwkw at at 1.3 bar (19 psi) and it doesn't drop 1 psi all the way from 4,500 rpm to 7,500 rpm. It also has Poncams, and is not the only one, there are 2 others that we have done and several on here that do similar. For example Ian's R33GTST has the VG30 housing and makes a bit more. My guess is you have a restriction that is limiting the airflow, something in the inlet or exhaust becomes the weak link. The first thing I would do is drop the exhaust before the cat, give it one quick power run and see what the differences are. Look at the graphs for A/F ratio and boost as well as the power curve (not just the max power). The next thing I would do is check the boost drop between the turbo outlet and the plenum. If it is more than a couple of psi, then I would start looking for a restriction, too small pipework, poor bend quality, intercooler etc. cheers PS, have you tried playing with the HKS EVC? Stick another 5 psi in it and see whether the boost still drops off to 16 psi. If it still does, then there is a restriction in the inlet or exhaust as per above.

My guess, 110 to 115 4wkw. On a GTR the front diff, drive shafts, wheel bearings, brake drag, cv's, tire slip, uni's etc seems to soak up about 10 kw. The dyno differences are likely to be more than that anyway. That's a pretty good result, plus 10-15 kw from the R34GTT intercooler. Did you increase the boost at the same time? cheers

See the 4 way (hazard) flasher switch, top right of the picture. if you flick that out you can get your finger behind the vent and push it out, doesn't leave marks like the screwdriver can. cheers

Left = left hand side of the car, as in passenger's side, if it is right hand drive. Right = right hand side of the car, as in driver's side, if it is right hand drive. The valve is for inserting the nitrogen on assembly, that stops the oil from foaming up under heavy going. You can top up the nitrogen if it falls below the designed pressure, usually around 50 psi. But most would consider that a waste of time as it will only leak out again. Best to fix the seal that is leaking first, then top up the nitrogen. cheers

Oh well, say hello to the guys at GWW for me, surely they have something better to do than read my crap.. We did an R32GTST with an R34GTT intercooler and it made 220 rwkw, plus I know of another that made 225 rwkw. So it's possible to get 200 4wkw out of it. I am not concerend about flow as the GCG ball bearing hi flow has 30% more than I need, so what if it drops a couple of PSI across the core. That turbo will flow 35 lbs of air at less than 1 bar with more than 72% efficiency, so I am not concerned too much about temperature either. The only problem may be if I have to push the boost at the turbo past 1.2 bar to get 1 bar at the plenum, then the efficiency drops under 70% and the air temp might get too hot. The contingency plan, if that happens, is to fit an intercooler spray. Yep, I always knew the injectors would be close, I try and stay no more than 85% duty cycle, but you can get by at 90%. If I sneak another ~10 PSI of fuel pressure, the injectors should flow an addtiional 15 kw worth of fuel. So that's the contingency plan there. The AFM max voltage is 5.1 volts, but the voltage ramp is not linear ie; the difference between 4.96 volts and 5.1 volts is ~3%, but the airflow required to generate 3% more voltage is closer to 30% more. We don't find a problem with running 5.1 volts once past around 6,000 rpm, the fuel demands of a light tune RB25DET are pretty linear once past that rpm and therefore in line with RPM increases. So the mapping handles it OK. Remember, you have an amount of AFM voltage adjustment to go after the AFM reaches 5.1 volts as long as you are reducing what voltage the ECU sees below that using the SAFC. An example, the AFM may get to 5.1 volts at 5,500 rpm, but the SAFC is reducing that to 5.0 volts for the ECU. This means you can tune further steps in what the ECU sees as changes in AFM voltage. So you can tune the AFM voltage from 5,500 rpm to 6,000 rpm and after that it doesn't matter anyway. The real problem occurs if you reach 5.1 volts at 4,500 rpm, the required mapping isn't linear enough to handle that and you will have trouble tuning it properly. But you shouldn't get that under 225 rwkw. cheers PS; as I say often, every engine is different

What do you mean by compare? Size? Weight? Effect? Cost? GTR bars are hollow, so a size comparison is useless Obviously being solid the Whiteline bars weigh more, around 8kgs compared to 5 kgs. Effect, the GTR rear bar is barely an upgrade at all, less than 25%, you would hardly feel it. The Whiteline rear bars come in a number of diameters (20mm, 22mm or 24 mm) plus you can get adjustable (we use 22mm and 24 mm adjustable rear bars). The 24 mm bar on full hard gives a 300% increase in rear anti roll, which is more like it. As for cost, stabiliser bars are the best bang for buck suspension upgrade you will find. cheers PS; Who told you "R32 gtr rear sway bars are a good upgrade for a gts-t"?

www.carrilloind.com www.argorace.com.au cheers

Nope, they are the BEST 2 places in Melbourne, well worth the extra drive. cheers

Hi Brendan, relying on past experience with RB25's (about 20 of them), the AFM is OK for ~220 rwkw before it starts to max out the voltage too early in the rpm range for the ECU to handle. So I don't think the standard AFM is going to be a problem. The standard injectors are 370cc's, in a 6 cylinder that's around 370 bhp (276 kw). Our Stagea lost around 70 kw (170 kw = 100 4wkw) on our 4wd dyno, so the injectors are going to be close to running out at 200 4wkw. If they are not quite there, I will simply stick a Nismo adjustable fuel pressure regulator on it ($150) and raise the rail pressure by a few psi (standard is 36-38 psi). I would like 200 4wkw (it starts with a "2"), but if it ends up at 190 4wkw, then that will have to do. I am not changing the injectors, it simply isn't worth it for a handfull of kw's. cheers

Welcome to the ever growing ranks of Stagea owners. I have a spare set of standard front and rear shocks and spare pair of standard rear springs, sorry no spare standard front springs. Cost about $25 in freight to get them to you and I will want them back as soon as you are finished with them. PM me if I can be of assistance cheers

Re #3, I found that it is easier if you remove the switch on the RHS of the vent. You can then poke your finger around the back of the vent and push it out easier without screwdriver marks. cheers