Sydneykid

Because of the restrictors, Late Model turbo cars are not so popular, the GTR is changing that though. We have a few Rex's and and an Evo or 2, a couple of Mazda GTX's and there are some GTST's that run in Tas as a result of the Targa classes. There is a move in WA to kill off their unique Street Car class and move the cars to the National IP regs next year. There are couple of Evo's and 180's and a GTST over there. Because of the circuit (Mallala) , there are a number of Early Model turbo cars (1200, 120Y, 808 etc) over there that do very well. I personally have an R32GTST (the one in the signature) that is built to IP regs. But I don't have much time to race it, the race team cars always take priority. I have a new RB31DET just about ready to go in it, for use at non regs track days. Just for some fun, of course. cheers

Please define "FAIL"? An AFM is simply a hot wire that changes voltage due to airflow, no moving parts to wear out. A postive voltage supply and an earth (to heat up the wire) and a sensor wire back to the ECU. Not a lot to "FAIL" in there. Are you sure they are not just dirty? Like the Beer Baron, I also have never had an AFM fail, as in stop working, go open circuit, pass zero voltage. I HAVE seen plenty that are filthy from over oiled PODS and that makes the voltages variable. I have also seen a few very dirty ones due to zero air filters or screens. I have even seen one smashed to pieces by engine vibration after it was solidly mounted. If you truly have a failed AFM, then I would be looking for the real cause, things like a short circuit, faulty wiring, over voltage alternator, excessive vibration, oil, dirt etc Becuase there is very little chance that the AFM is itself the cause of the problem. cheers

We get this question all the time. The Improved production regulations are very harsh on turbo cars. They have to run a restrictor (1 X 36mm for a single turbo and 2 X 27mm for twin turbos), this limits the power significantly. Restrictors are a great device to limit the top speed, which is what they were designed to do in WRC, stop them hitting the trees at 300 kph. They still pull of the corners very well because of the torque, but they hit the wall at around 220 kph and just stop accelerating. So OK on some circuits (Oran Park) but not so good on others (Philip Island). Add that to the natural weight that a late model car has to carry and then the 4wd weight that the GTR carries. There are no restrictors on N/A engines. This means you have a 1400kg GTR with less than 400 bhp competiing against an RX7 with 1050 kgs and 325 bhp. Tyres sizes are also important as they are a control tyre (A032R) and under 3 litres are limited to 7" wide rims and Over 3 litre to 8" wide rims. There are more than 10 RX7's in the class and the GTR is in front of them all but one. BTW that RX7 is in our race team and it is well driven by a class driver and is very well prepared with great engines and top class suspension (Ohlins). It is undefeated in NSW this season and is also leading the Vic Improved Production Championship. No one has ever won the Victorian State Championship and the NSW State Championship in the same year, that's the trarget. I am sure if we had no turbo restrictors we could win everything with a GTR, it was the best Group A Touring Car ever made after all. But that's not what IP racing is all about, all cars (turbo, rotary, 4, 6 and 8) have a chance, if you are good enough of course. cheers

They come with "coil overs" standard ie; the coil spring is mounted around the shock. Do you mean height adjustable? If so via screw thread? Or circlip? Try a search, much discussed subject. cheers

You really need to ask Murray, there are so many options and you already have some parts, springs etc. No "mixed reviews" for DMS from me, they are great value for money and really the next logical step up from the Bilsteins. Keep in mind that the GTR team owner has a good budget and Proflex were the next logical step in the suspension development. Plus there is enough knowledge in the team to use them, that may not have been the case 12 months ago. What ever shock you choose make sure you get the screw on lower mount (not welded on) and order both fork and bush mounts. That way they can be used on GTR's as well as GTST's, easier to sell if you ever decide to. Or you might get a GTR one day, then you can keep the shocks that you know. cheers

Worn radius rod bushes would be my first guess. cheers

They are hardened aluminium and you can buy C spanners from CBC Bearings, there is one near you. Justmeasure the OD of the spring seat ring, that's the size C spanner you need. If it has a locking ring as well, then you will need 2 X C spanners, one for each ring. Cheers

I don't hink you are going to have the solenoid fully open (100% duty cycle) for 10-15 minutes when you are driving. That amount of time on full boost results in very fast KPH. Have you teted it for 1 minute with no resistor? If you can still touch it with your fingers then it's fine, install it and move on. Do you have the book? The instructions on how to tune the pulsing frequency are on page 143. I would be very surpised if you would need to change the pulsing freguency from the default 10 mhz. I have tried a number of Nissan solenoids and they all work fine at that frequency. Hope that was of some help cheers

Oh my, who wrote that crap? :lol: "a dump pipe makes the std turbo breath better and need a bigger waste gate.." A decent dump pipe actually makes the wastegate outlet flow easier. So the boost control (by the wastegate) is actualy better when you improve the dump. If you look at a standard Skyline dump you can see how it blocks the wastegate outlet much more than it blocks the turbine outlet. If the turbo is standard then chances are the wategate actuator is standard (ie; ~7psi for an R33 and ~10psi for an R32). It should work fine, I would check the wastegate operation as already suggested plus have a good look at the vacuum hoses. Plenty of errors found in that area on previous occasions. cheers

1. Didn't need to hold the crank, the rattle gun undid the bolt easily against the compression. 2. You have to remove the radiator and move the air con heat exchanger foreward a little. I used a piece of aluminium (100mm X 100mm X 3mm thick) to protect the air con heat exchanger core from the back of the rattle gun. Damages the fins otherwise. cheers

Suggest follow; 1. What turbo is this? What wastegate? If it is a high flow, talk to whoever did it and ask them whether they upgraded the wastegate. Some cheap high flows leave the standard wastegate, which is too small. I don't think anything will fix this if the wastegate is too small. Check this out by locking the wategate fully open (piece of wire). If the boost still climbs then refer to the above. 2. "Over fueling" just means it runs too rich on return to idle. The DFA is just as good as an SAFC at bending AFM voltages, in fact with 125 load points it is arguably better. 3. Erratic idle caused by FMIC? Sounds like bog load of BS to me. Never experienced it, and I have fitted 20 or more FMIC's. Erratic idle is caused by poor tuning, or the most common = air leaks. 4. I have found no "extras" on an SAFC, other than the blue screen of course. The DFA is a good cost effective device, but it is ONLY an AFM voltage bender, same as an SAFC. So it is a compromise, the PFC is far superior solution for a manual. If you have an upgrade plan, then get the PFC and stop fooling around with compromises. cheers

Lower boost in 1st and 2nd gear is simplistic at best. Let me see if I have it right; You run 1.5 bar in 3rd, 4th and 5th But say 1.2 bar in 1st and 2nd That way you will get less wheelspin in 1st and 2nd But what if it is a nice warm day and the road is clean and it will handle 1.3 bar? But what if it is raining and 0.8 bar is needed for less wheeelspin? But what about if the road is sorta clean and has only a few bumps, so 1.25 bar would be good, But what about if the road is a bit bumpy, and the tyres are getting old, and 1.15 bar is the go. Do you limit the 1st and 2nd gear boost to 1.15, 1.2, 1.25 or 1.3 bar? <_< What you need is traction control, not lower boost. And the best traction control is your right foot. cheers

They were ~$250 until SOMEONE blabbed about how useful they were and then the price went up. At least this time it wasn't me, unlike the R32GTST wastegate actuators, they used to be ~free until I opened my big mouth. cheers

Help for the searchers, alternate names. Oxygen Sensor, Lambda Sensor, O2 sensor, A/F Ratio Sensor, Narrow and Slow A/F Ratio Sensor, Not a Fast and Wide Lambda Sensor ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ I figured it was time to have a dedicated Stagea lambda sensor selection, buying, wiring and fitting thread. There is a lot of info but it is spread out in a number of incomplete threads. So I hope this one will cover everything, with your help of course. I bought a new lambda sensor from my local Repco yesterday, ACA brand part number ROX207 for an EL Falcon cost $77.97 inc GST. It has 3 wires, 2 black and 1 blue. I will cut the wires and connect it to the Nissan plug via connectors as stainless steel wires do not take solder. They are stainless steel to take the heat, copper or aluminium would simply melt. Pictures would be here, but I can't figure out how to upload............. cheers

HELP HELP HELP HELP I have tried everything I can think of to upload the brake pad and rear rotor pictures for this thread. I can see my gallery I can see the "upload" button when I am not logged in But I can't upload because I am not logged in. When I am logged in, I can't see the upload buttom If I am doing something wrong please tell me. Or if I don't have permission to upload pictures anymore, then please tell me. If my gallery is full, then please tell me. This is very frustrating, and wastes a lot of time, time that I don't have to spare. cheers

HELP HELP HELP HELP I have tried everything I can think of to upload some pictures for the Stagea Brakes thread. I can see my gallery I can see the "upload" button when I am not logged in But I can't upload because I am not logged in. When I am logged in, I can't see the upload buttom If I am doing something wrong please tell me. Or if I don't have permission to upload pictures anymore, then please tell me. If my gallery is full, then please tell me. This is very frustrating, and wastes a lot of time, time that I don't have to spare. cheers

Hi Roy, you know I don't rate Jap shocks, never seen ANY that I would spend my money on. Jamie does a OK job for the price. so even if the HKS where the same price, I would take the DMS big bore shocks over them every time. The IP GTR used to run DMS, but now it has Proflex in there. Big improvement, around 1 sec a lap faster in qualifying and 12 seconds faster over 10 laps. They just make the tyres last that much longer. The high frequency control is supurb and the spring rate required is much lower. The RX7 has Ohlins (proper Swedish Ohlins, not Jap ones) and they are just a bit better again. Next time I buy some shocks for my GTST it will be Proflex, unless I win Lotto and can afford Ohlins. cheers

Ah no, not necessarily. What you are trying to do by decreasing the rear brake bias is to stop the tendancy for the rear brakes to lock, skip and generally unsettle the rear end. You may not be using the front brakes to their max, because of the unsettled rear end. By settling down the rear end you will then be able to use the front brakes more, the usual simplistic equation follows; 100% braking effort = 70% front 30 % rear But because of unsettled rear end, 60% front 30% rear = 90% Limit rear brake to 25% and front can achieve 70% = 95% Hence 5% improvement in braking performance from reducing the rear bias by 5%. The WRX test that Roy posted is only one of many similar tests done over the years. They all come to the same conclusion, the best for buck brake upgrade is pads and fluid. Removing the backing plates and upgrading to braided lines is next on the list, followed by some ducting. If the grip of the tyres exceeeds that upgraded braking performance, then its time to consider the calliper and rotor size upgrade. Far too many people reach for "bigger brakes" without knowing what the standard brakes can do for them, if they are in good condition. With Skylines we are not talking about crappy standard brakes here, the Sumitomo 4 piston front and 2 piston rear are far from average callipers. There are plenty of so called "upgraded" braking kits out there that are not half as good. Sorry, but I don't swallow the "pads ain't pads" argument. Note carefully the costs; This means expensive, race compounds of pads were not used in the stock system comparison. Holy cow, I would expect a set of $US3K Brembos would come with a damn site better pad than I could buy for $US100 (or less) for the standard calliper. I have a simple phylosophy when it comes to brakes. If the driver (with the same pressure and modulation) can still lock them up after a 20 lap race, then the tyres are the limiting factor in braking distance. Not the brakes themselves. My suggestion, spend the money on shocks. We find that spending the $4K on better shocks gives a faster lap time than spending that same $4K on brakes. We do run a control tyre (A032R), so every minute amount of extra traction we can get is vital. cheers

I don't know anyone that has said an R33GTST cat back exhaust would fit, that would be crazy considering the extra length of the waggon. I have checked out the dump and engine pipe and they will fit, as will the cat of course. But from there back, no chance. As for a fuel pump, any of the usual Skyline fuel pump upgrades will fit with exactly the same problems/advantages. The standard pump should be good for 200 4wkw, so I don't believe I will have to change it for my power target. But, just in case, I have an R33GTR pump standing by which will be OK for 265 4wkw at 12 volts (standard wiring) and 350 4wkw at 13.8 volts (using a relay and dedicated wiring from the battery). Hope that is of some help cheers

I just got my renewal notice from Shannons for the Stagea (yes it has been a year, time flies). The price was $200 lower than last year, now $1150. So I figure there must not have been many Stagea claims and a few more Stageas insured. cheers

That's the go with the shocks. I am surprised with the 60mm lower rear, 40mm lower front. Ours was 10 mm higher at the front when I got it (measured at the sills), it had that dictinct nose up look. So when I adjusted the height with the circlips I went 15mm lower in the front than the rear. Now it has that slight nose down look that I prefer from all cars. Personally, I would never consider using springs that are 60mm lower rear, 40mm lower front in a Stagea, ours would have been 30 mm higher at the front than rear. YUKO!!!! I reckon 60mm lower front and 40 mm lower rear would look much better, but the coils are different (conical front, parrallel rear) so you can't swap them over, even if the rates where suitable. cheers

Same for me, what can we do about this? Cheers

I would say 340 rwkw is gettable. Some limitations; 1. Is the GT35R internally or externally gated? 2. Standard conrods, may be an issue. At the very least go for ARP rod bolts. 3. The combined dump will compromise response if you are going internally gated 4. 3" exhaust is a bit small for 300+ rwkw, 3.25" would be better. 5. Headgasket or block O'rings? 6. Standard cams, not a good idea past 300 rwkw as they compromise the average power considerably. You do have some items on the list that are not necessary; A. BOV: Turbosmart V-Port Type 3, is that for noise effect? B. Boost Cont: Blitz Spec R, a Power FC boost control kit would make more sense C. Coils: SplitFire set, the standard coils will do just fine at that power level I notice that there are no brake or suspension mods listed, you are not going to mcuh success with power down with standard suspension. brakes. well its gunna be a fast car, it will need to stop just as fast. cheers

"Leaking injectors" doesn't usually mean leaking outside the engine, it usually means leaking fuel into the engine. This is not a good thing, as you can get hydraulic lock if too much flows lays in the engine (say overnight). When you turn the starter motor next morning you can easily bend the conrods (petrol does not compress). Changing O'rings will do nothing for that. It is easy to confirm, just stick the injectors on a flow bench and see how much fue lcomes out when they are closed. The normal course of action is to get the injectors cleaned as most time the pintle is kept open by a build up of gunk from the petrol used. A good overnight ultrasonic clean will generally fix this. Then they can be retested on the flow bench to make sure they are not leaking. Cost about $20-30 per injector. Hope that helps cheers

Was it 2wd or 4wd? Tyre width is irrelevant, its only the circumference that has to be the same. So 235/45 on the front would be the same as 265/40 on the rear. Since the tread depth of a normal road tyre is around 8mm I don't get too stressed with diameter differences smaller than that. Otherwise you would have to buy 4 new tyres everytime on a GTR. cheers