Sydneykid

Without a power figure and/or A/F ratios it is a bit hard to comment on the injector sizing question. If it is rich and making less than 370bhp (220rwkw) then tuning will both increase the power and decrease the injector duty cycle. It depends on where in the rpm range the AFM is reaching its 5.1 volts. If it is 5,000 rpm then it needs to be upgraded, if it is 6,500 rpm you can hold off.

Hi Gary, apparently Apexi have been asked a number of times to do a Power FC's for auto Nissans, same as they do for auto Toyotas. From what I heard Apexi can not justify the cost in programming, even amortised over the large number of auto Power FC's they would sell. The programming for the Toyota auto in the engine ECU is apparently nowhere near as complex. That's why there are Power FC's for Toyota autos. I haven't seen any Power FC's for Honda or Mazda autos either, so it's not like Nissan are on their own.

If the fuel and ignition timing are OK, then my guess would be inlet air temp. What intercooler are you running? How is the dyno fan (we run 2, one for the radiator and one for the intercooler). Have you tried wetting the intercooler with water? Have you got an infrared pyrometer for checking the primary exhauts pipe temps or and EGT gauge? That will also tell you what is happening temp wise. Interesting problem, please keep us in the loop:cheers:

Hi Gary, the standard ECU has a very sophisticated map that looks at rpm, throtle position, road speed, load (via the AFM), engine water temp and then calculates the exact amount of ignition retard and/or cut required. The Nissan guys tell me that there is more code in the shift logic program then there is needed to run the engine. There is most certainly not one, single retard amount (like 10 degrees). I hate piggy backs, they are pain in the ass compromise, but I haven't found a better solution:cheers:

All of the DET's have block mounted piston oil squirters, other RB's have conrod oil squirters. The extra oil cools the under side of the piston, if you ceramic coat the piston crowns the conrod oil squirters do a totally satisfactory job:cheers: PS; you can fit oil squirters to SOME other RB blocks but it is hit and miss (depends on casting thickness) and is a pain in the ass job that needs special tools.

Make sure you are using the correct wire on the ECU pin outs, it is soooo easy to use the wrong one.

Well done Dunc, keep it up, we need more Skylines out there:cheers:

Yes:cheers:

For 280 rwkw, get some steel turbines in the standard turbos and turn the boost up to 1.3 bar. Cost ~$1000 Power FC with Boost Control Kit and tune ~$1600 Split dumps, decent engine pipes and high flow cat ~$1200 Pipercross filter in the standard airbox ~$50 Bosch 044 fuel pump mounted in tank ~$400 The standard injectors should just about make it, if not use a Nismo adjustable fuel pressure regulator ~$150. The standard drive train will be fine at that power level, however you will need a clutch upgrade ~$600 Labour is difficult to quote on, depends on how much you do yourself and how expensive your chosen workshop is. Maybe allow ~$2,000 that should cover it.

No ignition retard on gearshift (auto) means harsh gearchanges and premature wear of the 2nd gear belt and 3rd and 4th gear clutches. The gearchanges are rough on heavy throttle and uncomfortable on light throttle. Adding a shift kit, upgraded valve body or stronger belt/clutches makes no improvement to the quality of the gearchange. In fact the tigher (shorter) shift makes the lack of ignition retard even more obvious/noticeable. In that regard I have tried autos with Wolf, Power FC. Motec, Autronic and Microtec and none are any better than any other. I have no reason to believe that Link would be any better. I have investigated and tested a number of cars because I have an auto Stagea (we use it to tow the race car) and I wanted to upgrade the ECU. I have had no success finding an ECU, despite over 12 months of looking. So I have a Jaycar DFA (similar to SAFC) and an Apexi SITC tricking the standard ECU. No loss of shift quality or damage to the auto. Check out the Stagea section for more details:cheers:

R32/33/34 suspension is pretty much one to one, shock movement versus wheel movement. So if you move the circlip 10 mm up the shock, it will raise the car 10 mm.

You can have as many circlip grooves as you like, I did a set once with 15 grooves at 4 mm each. Shock valving is not affected by height I have only seen Skylines Bilsteins with 2 gooves standard, some other cars have 3, but most only have 1.

The Stagea rear springs are parrallel (75 mm ID top and bottom) and the R33GTR rear springs are conical (110 mm top and 75 mm bottom). This makes the strut towers smaller in the Stagea so you get more load space, well that's what I reckon Nissan did it for:cheers:

Hi Brad, one set does both radius rods:cheers:

Finished the install of the SITC during the week, I put it in the glove box with the IEBC and the DFA. It already had some velcro on the bottom, so I just stuck some on top of the IEBC to hold it in place. It's a tight fit, not a lot of room left, but I can still fit my gloves in there I wired it into the harness using the bullet plugs and I made sure I put the male and female plugs on the standard wiring. That way I can remove the SITC (and the IEBC and DFA) and just plug the standard wires back together. The extra wires meant I couldn't get the standard plastic cover to fit into the clips on the ECU plug. So I used a pair of cable ties to hold it in place and protect the back of the ECU plug. Well that's it for the install, now for some testing. I warmed the engine up and checked the timing (timing light) with the SITC set on zero for all rpm ranges. It was as I set it (15 degrees BTDC) when I changed the timing belt and the adj camshaft pulley. So I adjusted the 800 rpm knob to 10 degrees advanced, and checked it with the timing light, bingo 25 degrees BTDC. Then I adjusted the 800 rpm knob to 10 degrees retarded and checked it with the timing light. Bingo again, 5 degrees BTDC. Since the 800 rpm knob is working perfectly, I think it is pretty safe to assume that the other 4 will be too. As soon as I fit the exhaust I will stick it on the dyno and give it a tune. I can lean it off some more with the DFA and then retard the igntion timing with the SITC if it starts to ping (pre-ignite). Not quite as accurately (it has only 5 load points) as I could with Power FC, but I am sure it will be close enough to satisfy my power requirements and help meet my power target of 200 4wkw.

I machine mine with 8mm betweeen the circlip grooves

OK I give up, how do I get the parking light out to replace the globe? I have undone the obvious philips head screw on top of the headlight. But the parker is attached at the bottom somehow.

Hi Brad, I used the part numbers in the previous post and they fit perfectly. If you get one that doesn't fit perfectly, it is a manufacturing fault (it does happen). Measure up how much it is out and then send it back. Whiteline will replace anything that isn't spot on for specification.

Nice work Dunc, put some more fuel in it for tomorrow. We use 2 litres per lap, plus 5 litres for luck.

With the adjustable stabiliser bars you can change the handling bias; 1. full hard on the front 27mm and full soft on the rear 24mm = understeer 2. full soft on the front 27mm and full hard on the rear 24mm = oversteer 3. And there are 4 settimg on each bar in between, so you choose the bias 4. In the rain or on dirty tracks we use a 22mm adjustable rear, as we can't get the 24mm bar soft enough (ie; too much oversteer) That's why adjustable stabilisr bars are a must have for any serious track work and its why all circuit race cars (where the regs alow) have ****pit adjustable stabiliser bars.

Hi Matty, the adjustable bushes (camber, front and rear) are eccentric, undo the lock nut, turn the bolt and adjust the camber. I am not sure what you mean by "whats the max setting". Is that max positive camber or max negative camber? For example, on the rear we use the adjustable bushes to remove negative camber when the car is lowered. The lower it is, the more negative we have to remove. On the front the adj bushes add around 2.5 degrees negative, but add 2.5 degrees to what? Again it depends how much the car is lowered. For a 100% drift application (zero road use) I wouldn't be using adj bushes. You would be better off with spherical joints and adj arms. Hope that helps:cheers: