Sydneykid

You have removed a restriction, therefore more airflow (boost is irrelevant). The AFM is sensing more airflow and telling the ECU (AFM's are blabber mouths, just can't keep a secret). The ECU knows that much airflow is too much, so it hops onto Rich & Retard mapping to protect the engine. Time for some tuning, DFA, SAFC, PFC or equivalent.

That's not a good thing, it could be argued holding colour is in fact a bad thing. Oil has a detergent action, as well as lubricating, it cleans the components it touches. So if the oil stays clean, either the engine isn't "dirty" (unlikely) or the oil is lacking in detergent quality.

Some numbers to think about; 475 bhp = 355 kw less 60 kw for losses = 295 rwkw The engine dyno room is airconditioned at 21C , no radiator, oil cooler etc so you don't get as much heat soak as you do in the engine bay of a car on a roller dyno. The intercooler sits in a tub of water (no ice), so the temp is pretty constant. Plus we tuned the ever living crap out of it, spent 3 days on getting the maps absolutely perfect. There might be 15-20 kw advantage in all of that. So I reckon 297 rwkw at 17 psi is damn fine effort OFENSV, well done.

Hi Brendan, I have started a new thread for Stagea Brakes, all the info (so far) is on there. OK on the DBA rotors, we use their slotted rotors on most of the race cars and all of the road cars.

I thought it was worthwhile consolidating all the Stagea brake stuff in one place. Series 1 Front Pads - Bendix Premium 1398BP The generic Bendix code is 1398, the last 2 digits are the pad type (BP = Bendix Premium). There is an alternative being 1250, this pad is 14 mm thick and the 1398 is 15 mm thick. It seems 1398's are hard to get at times, so 1250 is a good alternative. I found a set of Lucas Premium pads in the 1250 part number. They are the TRW manufactured, European spec material, so they should be OK. Front Disc Rotors - DBA 4909 These are the same as the S14 200SX DBA have these in stock currently Rear Pads - Bendix Advance 1144 or Ferodo XL 1144XL As for the front, the generic Bendix code is 1144 the last 2 are the pad type. Rear Disc Rotors - I am going to try DBA 4908 (R32GTR), modified by maching down the OD by 30mm, all of the other dimensions are the same. This is a rather drastic reduction, I will have to check them for cracking for a few weeks before I sign off on their suitability. DBA has these rotors in stock currently. Series 2 Front pads - Hitachi HP63H FF The guys with S2's haven't found a Bendix equivalent yet, but I am sure they will post it up as soon as they do. **edit by mods** this information is not correct as the offset is wrong for S2 stagea Front Disc Rotors - DBA 4963 (R33 GTST) modified by machining down the OD by 6mm, all of the other dimensions are the same. Unlike the Series 1, this is very minor machining, I would not expect any problems with this, we do it all the time on the race car rotors. DBA have these in stock currently **/edit** Rear Pads - The generic Bendix code is 1399 Rear Disc Rotors - DBA 4908 (R32GTR), modified by maching down the OD by 5mm, all of the other dimensions are the same. Unlike the Series 1, this is very minor machining, I would not expect any problems with this, we do it all the time on the race car rotors. DBA has these rotors in stock currently. I will post up some pictures of the front rotors and the pad install as I proceed through it this weekend.

I have added a new item to my list, well maybe not a NEW item but I have certainly moved it up the scale a bit. BRAKES, I was playing with an XR6 Turbo last night and ended up with NO STOPPING. That was very exciting as I was braking very late and making sure I had higher corner speed to offset the power deficiency. He slowed up a bit more than I needed to, so I had to grab a bit of extra brake and there was nothing there. So got some DBA rotors this morning and I am still persuing the brake pads (refer Stagea brakes thread). Considering the power output potential of your thing R33stagea and the lack of handling mods, I would be looking very seriously at a brake upgrade.

Brake rotors have a minimum thickness, they can be pefectly smooth and still be too thin. Looking at them tells you nothing, you have to measure the thickness. The minimum thickness is stamped into the outside (circumference) of the rotor. If the front rotors are too thin then they need to be replaced and new pads used or the current pads machined. If the rear rotors are OK for thickness, then they can be machined and new pads used or the current pads machined. If you want to save money, leave the rear alone if the pads are OK.

We found with just the controller, it would get some slip towards the end of a race and the oil temps would climb rapidly. No slip with the additional plates, last the whole race and lower transfer case oil temps all the time. :goddam: I had better ring around and warn everyone. PS; Only kidding :innocent: good luck.

That is a pair of spacers for an AE86. The top of the spacer bolts to the bottom of the MacPherson Strut. Then the lower control arm bolts to the bottom of the spacer. So the spacer is sandwiched between the bottom of the MacPherson Strut and the lower control arm, effectively lowering the the control arm out at the wheel. It is not a great picture of it, but you can just see (behind the stub axle) the alloy spacer between the lower control arm and the bottom of the strut

Hi guys, somewhere the R33GTST must have a map sensor to make the standard boost gauge work. The Power FC's for the R32/33/34GTR and the R32GTST all use the standard map sensor to detect the boost level. I would be logical to assume that the standard Nissan map sensor would work OK on the R33GTST, all you have to do is run a connection from the standard map sensor to the map sensor input on the PFC. It should not be necessary to buy another map sensor.

When you jack the car up do you stick a trolley jack under the diff centre? This bends the axle tubes and results in positive camber. That's the first thing I would check.

Ooops, that'll teach me to write things form memory, should be "series". Previous post amended:cheers:

I used the standard dust covers on mine, I would never have a high mileage road car with out dust covers. The shafts wear and top seals damage too easily to leave them exposed. We don't run dust covers on the race cars, they get cleaned after every race meeting anyway:cheers:

Some solenoids (NOT the standard Nissan ones) don't like being held open for long periods of time and they get hot. So you use the 10 ohm 10 watt resistor in series with the solenoid to "share" the load. That way the solenoid draws less current and doesn't get too hot. PS; for more details refer to page 142 of the book "Performance Electronics for Cars".

The lambda sensor only affects air/fuel ratios in closed loop (cruise, idle and constant throttle running). The DFA has no effect on closed loop running, so go ahead and get it tuned, stick the lambda sensor in whenever you like.

And they seem to loose around 70 - 80 kw through the auto and 4wd.

Load sharing for the solenoid, the Nissan solenoids don't need it.

The one I got was $210, they are often on Ebay for $US199. Doesn't sound like an ignition problem, more like a fuel problem. We are racing at Sandown this weekend, I will post up the install and wiring pictures when I get back to my home computer.

I usually just push the rubber boot up, slip the cable tie on, pull it tight and go for a drive, hit some of my regulars pot holes (always plenty around my area). Then slip the boot up again and see where the cable tie has been pushed to. The rubber boots keep dirt out and stop the seals (on the top of the shocks) from wearing out from the grit. It has been my experience that 9 out of 10 times (when fitting lowered coils) I have to trim the bump stops. If that wasn't done it is highly likely that some premature bump stop contact is occuring. I would always take it back to Pedders if I wasn't happy and ask them.

Do a search:cheers:

:wizard: Maybe two of them make 650 bhp and he forgot to give you the other one.

That's the standard (default) PFC settings, acceleration enrichment HAS NOT been tuned. Take it back and ask for it to be tuned properly. PS; It has been my experience that 99% of the time when people blaim coil packs it's something else. Usually poor tuning.

That's why the PFC is so popular, all the base stuff is loaded, plug it in and turn the key. Drive it gently to get tuned.

Anything that alters the relationship between the steering arm and the lower control arm requires that some corrective action be taken to prevent bump steer. They usually come together in a kit for cars where the steering arm is attached to the upright. This is not necessary where the spacer is placed between the steering arm (which pivots on the lower control arm) and the upright.

It's wearing the outside of the tyre, if it was underinflated it would wear out both the inside and the outside. If it was overinflated it would wear out the middle. Incorrect tyre pressure is unlikely to increase wear on the outside only.