Sydneykid

It really depends on how fast the car goes around corners and what sort of tyres it has. If it has a lot power and handles crap, then you need bigger brakes. If it has good power and handles really well then the standard R32GTR Nissan callipers, with good rotors (DBA) and pads (Hawk carbons) work just fine. cheers

The 180 degree bend at the throttle body style of pipework is the go. I have a picture of a car fitted with the 180 degree pipework and a high mount, but this new forum is taking some time to get used to. cheers

Hi Pete, let's see if I can answer your questions based on my experience of 12 months of ownership (yep it's due for rego); 1. I have a tow bar that was rated at 1 tonne, I have upgraded the bolts and the goose neck and have been towing 1700 kgs (that's an R32GTST plus trailer). I have always used load stabilising bars. In addition we usually carry around 200 kgs of spares and tools to a race meeting. I check the tow bar regularly, generally within a few days of a race meeting. I have seen no signs of fatigue in the bar itself or the chassis. 2. Mechanically the Stagea is the same as an R33GTST (the most popular import by far) with a bit of GTR style 4wd stuff. The auto is the same as heaps of Nissans, Skylines, Patrols etc. I have not found a part that I can't buy so far. My local Nissan dealer carries a large range, I bought a timing belt from them. Repco had the brake pads in stock. My local AutoOne had all of the light bulbs. SupaCheap had all of the belts (alternator, power steer, air con). Castol lists all of the lubricants necessary to do a service. My local Nissan dealer has a Consult which he can plug into the diagnostics port, same as any other Nissan. I bought Bilsteins shocks (front = R33GTR, rear = R33GTST) with a phone call, Whiteline stabiliser bars, R33 GTR all round etc etc The Stagea is like most Nissans. grotesquely over engineered, so they don't break things like diffs, or gearboxes that Commondoors do. Think late model Japanese reliability, the reality is I have needed very very few maintenance parts. Most of what I have bought are upgraded parts. And even they were easy to get. The best thing about Stageas is this forum, there are guys on here doing stuff all the time. Chances are if you want to do or buy anything, someone on here has already done it. Benefit from their experience. cheers

I think he thought I meant that the car was to have no mods before the plenum was fitted ie; standard. What I meant was no mods after the plenum was fitted, ie; just a simple before and after comparison of what the plenum did for a car that alreay had mods. :

The LM1 talks very nicely to the Autronic ECU, and enables self tune as well.

Get them to check the sub frame alignment at the same time. Bob Jane :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: Take it to a decent suspension shop .............please................ Where abouts do you live, and I might be able to recommend someone who is worthwhile.

Take the number plates off Dunc, they go faster then

That's 17X8 @ 35mm offset with 235/40/17 on the front and 245/45/17 on the rear.

It's got 1 degree negative camber on the LHS and 0.5 degrees negative on the RHS. What sort of suspension shop did you get to align it and then they left it that far out? Shoot the front (2 and 1.3) is just as bad. Take it back and get them to do it properly PS; spray some RP7 on the threads and get those adjusters working. You might have ot remove them and stick them in the vice to get them to shift initially. Once you have them loose, work them up and down a few times, keep spraying the RP7. Then once a month respray them with RP7. PPS; Actually they're Teins, throw them in the bin and get something decent.

Good news, DBA have made a batch of 4908, rear rotors. I will be picking them up tomorrow. I will machine them up next week and fit them the weekend after. Then post up some pictures. PS; I have updated the first page with the latest details as I go.

Let's see, I have a full Whiteline kit on the Stagea, and one on the race R32GTST and one on the R34GTT. Plus we have one on the Prelude and the Integra. They are all great, everyone who rides in any of the cars comments on how well they handle and still ride nicely. That's on the road and on the track. You can not compare a set of Jap brand name springs and shocks with a FULL suspension kit. None of those named above have stabiliser bars in the kit, or alignment bushes, camber/caster adjustment, subframe alignement bushes etc. The Japs try to do EVERYTHING with spring and shock rate, which is both simplistic and rather silly for Australian conditions. Need more info? Do a search on Whiteline and Bilstein shocks (that's what shocks they use in the Skyline kits). PS; The search button is your best friend

This is the response I put up on SDU; Pardon me for being sceptical, but I have tried a number of aftermarket plenums and most give an average power LOSS. Some are only barely as good as standard. I have not found one that actually gives a power increase. So, do you have any dyno graphs showing before and after dyno results? No other mods, just the plenum and relevant pipework change. PS; if you haven't done a back to back dyno test, I strongly suggest you do. Otherwise you will get nothing but grief from the sceptics who have been burnt by others.

The best way is to get a GTR resotor pack. If you can't find one, then 6 X 10 ohm resistors in series with the GTR injectors will work. One for each injector, just make sure you protect them from vibration loads, heat shrink is good.

The industry standard is to measure the distance between the centre of the wheel and the guard vertically. What are your measurements?

You want an honest opinion, Brad........... Very average quality shock absorbers with unsophisticated valving and too small a piston diameter. Add that to too high a spring rate for our roads. They are nice and shiny though.

Hi guys, as previously posted I only replaced the timing belt. There was NOTHING wrong with the water pump or the tensioner or the idler pulleys. There was no seal that needed replacing. I have done 5 Skylines and never replaced a water pump, tensioner, idler pulley.... I just needed to do the cam belt. I still have one that has done 180,000 k's and it still has the original water pump, tensioner idler etc etc The 100,000 k service is "replace cam belt" not replace water pump, not replace cambelt tensioner. By all means get them to check it, but 99% of the time it won't need replacing.

As per this previously posted picture (on page 2 of this thread) As you can see the boost feed (from the intercooler pipework) goes into the top fitting on the solenoid. The bottom fitting on the solenoid goes to the T piece. The RHS of the T piece goes to the wastegate actuator. The hose coming of the LHS of the T piece has the vent in it, that hose goes to the inlet pipe of the turbo (in combination with the standard BOV return). As a clarification, back on page 16 of this thread I posted this diagram; As you can see from the above diagram (page 136 of the Performance Electronics for Cars) the size of the "vent" determines how much airflow goes to the wastegate actuator. If the vent is too big, not enough air flows to it and the diaphram doesn't move (open the wastegate) and you get no boost control (it just keeps going up). The first thing I would do is run the vent to atmosphere, as it is in the above diagram. Then see if the IEBC controls boost OK Don't forget to block off the hose. Hope that is some help

what about with the rb25det head, is 1 enough? i have used the 2 standard rb30 ones and having the problem with the cam covers overflowing with oil at high rpm. did 1 run at the drag day yesterday and my catch can was full and over flowing <{POST_SNAPBACK}> The RB25DDET cylinder head has 3 oil feeds, one for the VVT and the 2 others as found on all RB's. For the R32 RB25DE cylinder head on the RB30 bottom end, I used one feed (the rear one) and blocked off the front one. In ~5 years it has never put any meaningfull oil in the cacth can and the cams are in perfect condition.

Reducing the size from 200 to 100 PM's is not going to work for me. I get as many as 30 PM's in one day. By the time I respond the 100 is gone in a couple of days. Can I please have 200 back than you.

Many people have tried, none have succeeded that I have seen. The fuel works the same as an SAFC, just lots of extra money spent on the EManage. Best solution for ignition is the SITC as it sits between the CAS and the standard ECU. The ECU still talks directly to the ignitors, so the standard retard/ignition cut programming on gearchanges is unaffected.

Sorry officer, I lost the glove box key :innocent:

Simple stuff, after every race we drain the tank. At Oran Park, say it's a 15 lap race, plus one warm up lap and one cool down lap, we put in 34 litres plus 5 litres for luck. All of our cars have surge tanks with lift pump. Then we drain the tank after that race and see how much we had left. If it's more than 5 litres then we reduce it based on how much we used every lap. You don't want to carry any more fuel than is absolutely necessary, we lost race at Sandown last week by 4/100ths of a second. How much would I hate myself if we put 5 litres too much in and slowed the car down by 1/100th of second per lap for 12 laps.

You would have to ask Dave or Phil (drivers) or Mr B, he owns the team. Waste of your valuable time asking me:cheers: PS; you are doing pretty well, you and the guys should be proud. NSW State Championship racing is not easy.

Hi Gary, as I posted previously this is complex programming, and there is most certainly data interchange between the Auto ECU and the Engine ECU. The ECU pinouts on R33/R34 indicate an even higher level/volume/speed of coms than R32. The Stagea S1 sits between R33 S2 and R34, with the Stagea S2 the same as R34.

My 20 cents worth, it's not an RB20 if it has an RB26 crank, 3.5mm oversize pistons and RB26 rods. That's an RB24:cheers: