Sydneykid

Both Cefiros?????????????? MacPherson strut front suspension!:idea::idea::idea: How low are they? Centre of wheel to guard. If TOO low, the lower control arm is pointing up (at the wheel) not down. This means they go positive camber when compressed. So when you brake, both front wheels go positive camber. When you go around a corner the outside is compressed and it goes positive camber. Three solutions; 1. Raise then up until the lowr control arms are pointing down at the wheels 2. Add more negative camber so they they don't go positive The BEST solutiuin 3. Use a spacer between the upright (hub) and the lower control arm, so that the arm points down at the wheel. I will try and dig up a picture of a spacer.

Yep, I got used to it though.

Much easier if you number you questions; 1. As Ben said S1 has a separate ignitor module, S2 has ignitors built int oeach coil. 2. Chassis is irrelevant, the only thing that matters is the wiring harness, use the coils that go with the wiring harness and the ECU. 3. No 4. No 5. You can use a single Q45 AFM (90 mm), so far good for 420+ rwkw 6. No way, read the thread there are so many choices, pick the one that you like. Read the How to Guide it's simpler/shorter. 7. The list (tick off what you already have). Intercooler, radiator, exhaust, intercooler pipework, power steering, air con, engine mounts, oil cooler, turbo/turbos, turbo water and oil fittings, air filter, AFM to turbo pipework, gaskets, decent sump (wings, one way doors and baffles are best), boost controller, Power FC, injectors, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, radiator hoses, belts, water pump, oil pump, clutch, gearbox, tailshaft, diff, brakes, suspension, wheels, tyres, gauges etc etc Good luck:cheers:

None on mine:cheers:

Oh yes, they guzzle gas at 9psi with no A/F ratio correction. Boost is irrelevant, the only thing that matters is airflow and the AFM measures that. So when you apply correction to the AFM voltage it is at that airflow. An example, the same airflow at 6,000 rpm on 6psi as ~5,100 rpm at 9 psi. Lower boost is never a problem, the AFM voltage is "corrected" for that rate of airflow. But higher boost may result in higher airflow than has been mapped. I am about to upgrade the exhaust on ours, so I will post up what changes it needed via the DFA.

The SITC arrived today in good condition and I will be fitting it tonight. Looks pretty simple, and it fits in the glove box OK with the IEBC and the DFA. This is the SITC, I replaced the standard plugs on the cables that the Stagea needs; Red = +12 V parallel connection to Pin 67 Black = -12V parallel connection to Pin 25 Blue = Pin 46 (CAS 0 degrees) White = Pin 44 & 45 (CAS 120 degrees) Peach = to the wires that used to go to Pin 44 & 45 Light Blue = to the wire that used ot go to Pin 46 As you can see from the picture I have used female connectors on blue and white and male connectors on peach and light blue. I also made up some Y connections so that I can simply unplug the SITC and replug the standard wires back together. I like the nifty buttons on the SITC that pop out (like 1, 3, 5) so you can adjust them and then they push back in (like 2, 4) so you can't accidently change the settings.

With the Porsches there are a number of programs and different hardware available for the ABS. We have yet to find one that stops as well as the driver can manage. Plus the competition software/controller upgrades cost ~$2K each and the hardware (actuators) start at $3K. They are not the same as or are they modified road car actuators, they are unique. We spend the money elsewhere. PS; we find the 1.5 way diffs on the GTRs' work better at limiting the inside wheel locking.

Pop over to Centreline (Chris) or Traction Tyres (Andrew) and let them have a look at your car. They will then give you some choices.

What I can see, minus usually means toe in, the front should be toe out, around 1 mm per side. Some questions; 1. What do you use the car for? 2. What size tyres on what size rims? If there is a mismatch you will get uneven tyre wear. 3. What spring rates are in the Teins? Upgrading the stabiliser bars will help A LOT. It depends on the answer to questions 1 and 3 as to what size you need.

No comparison between the Cefie ECU and yours, note the AFR ratios where not so bad, even at higher than standard boost. On the Stagea, when I turned the boost up to 9 psi, the A/F ratios were in the 9's. Plus it went R&R and that actually lowered the power, what I found; 1. Standard boost = 105 rwkw 2. 9 psi boost = ~80 rwkw (savage R&R kick in) 3. DFA tuned = 135 rwkw It could be argued that the DFA added 55 rwkw. Or that the increase in boost from 6 psi to 9 psi AND the DFA added 30 rwkw. Both are correct.

More than 50% of the harshness in Jap coil over kits is due to their rediculously high spring rates. Most times when I have changed (or recommended a change in) spring rates, the guys report good/satisfactory results. A common trick is to put the rear springs in the front and buy some softer (around 200 lbs per inch) rear springs. That's a cheap fix at under $200 if you do the labour yourself. If you want to know what the current spring rates are, pop over to the thread in this section (How do I know what my spring rates are?).

The shock doesn't care whereabouts in its travel it sits, the valving is the same. The usual problems are; Did you trim the bump stops? If you left them the standard thickness then (if it is lowered too much) it will be slamming into the bump stops. How much travel does it have? How do you tell how much travel it has? The best method is to place a cable tie tightly on the shock shaft, quick drive around then check where the cable tie is pushed up to. What are the rates of the springs you put in? There is a thread on this section where I show you how to measure up your springs, post the dimensions and I will work out your spring rate for you.

Anyone else want to know what their springs rates are?

Give Heasmans a call and they can look up the latest Bilstein catalogue:cheers:

It's illegal, instant defect. That means call a tow truck to take your car home, you won't be allowed to drive it:cheers:

Have tried many ABS systems on numerous race cars, they are simply not as effective as the driver. Plus they are down right dangerous when you leave the track, particularly on the grass in the wet.

I have been keeping an eye on mine. Just the usual stuff, check for cracks in the tow bar welding, the goose neck, stress fractures around the floor and where the bolts go thopugh the subframe and tightness of the bolts themselves. So far (5 months) all is well:cheers:

$730 + $112 + freight + 10% duty + 10% gst = ~$1100 That's as much as a Power FC On the Stagea I used a Jaycar DFA $80, Controller $70 and an SITC $210 = $360 And I don't have to work out my own mapping for gearshifts as the SITC doesn't change the standard ECU logic. Pop over to the Stagea section for progress to date and ongoing results:cheers:

Up to 300 rwkw it is a perfectly legitimate reason to buy a Greddy plenum just for looks, as long as you don't kid yourself that you did it for any other reason.

Do a search, CAI and Shielding is one of the most common forum items:cheers:

Standard ECU rich and retard strategy:cheers:

The R33GTR Bilsteins come with 2 circlip grooves standard, from memory the R34GTT uses the upper groove and the R34GTR uses the lower groove.

Are you sure they are 7"?

R33GTR front shocks are shorter than R33GTST front shocks, they also have higher rate valving (both bump and rebound) to handle the extraa 200 kgs of weight and the necessarily higher spring rate.