Sydneykid

The first job is to identify the correct wires into the ECU from the CAS. That would be 44/45/46 according to the trusty Stagea ECU pin out drawing; For the sake of completeness I will post up page 2 of the Stagea ECU pinouts, it may be useful for other projects. Next job is to scan the SITC Instruction manual:cheers:

I bought an Apexi SITC today, so I can have a go at changing the ignition timing independantly of the Jaycar DFA's effect on the AFM voltage. Judging by the amount of correction I had to apply after retarding the exhaust camshaft timing 4 degrees, I figure I am going to need to use the DFA for some serious A/F ratio tuning. Especially with the GCG Ball Bearing High Flow turbo, split dump and 3.25" exhaust to go on. The only draw back of tuning with the DFA (as with all AFM voltage benders) is it advances the ignition at the same time as it leans out the A/F ratios. The SITC will enable me to correct for any excessive advance while it is on boost and at the same time add as much advance as it will take off boost. This should help the fuel economy even more and improve the response. Maybe even help the boost build. The Stagea is going to have a glove box full of piggy backs, such is the price for having an auto. PS, For some reason I can't fathom, Apexi decided to no longer make the SITC. So if you are thinking of getting one it means shopping around for a used one. I strongly suggest you get in quick when you see them come up, they are most sought after around the world.

OK, following Marcs advice, so a new thread on SITC started.

That's a good result, well done for a first time effort at tuning. Can you please post up your load point corrections. It will be a helpful reference. I think you may have achieved more than the graph shows, with no intercooler it was probably heating up the inlet airflow after 4 power runs. This would have dropped the last run's power reading. Since I added the adjustable exhaust camshaft pulley (4 degrees retarded) the Stagea has been hitting the ECU R&R (softly) at around 3,500 rpm. This would be due to the extra airflow sensed by the AFM. So last night I popped in a few extra corrections around load point 80/85, not much just a couple here or there to see if it stopped the pesky ECU going R&R. The big news is I bought an Apexi SITC today, so I can have a go at changing the ignition timing independantly. So the Stagea is going to have a glove box full of piggy backs:cheers: PS; should I start a new thread for the SITC install and tuning? Or carry on with it in this thread?

Let's see if I can convince you............ We have 5 cars in my family fleet, all but one has DBA rotors (it's still under warranty). We have 7 cars in the race team, all but 2 have DBA rotors. They had to have special rotors machined up using AP Racing blanks. If there was a DBA rotor the same size I would by them, same quality less than 1/2 the price. We use DBA4000's on the road cars and DBA5000's on the race cars. Even after a 20 minute race they can still lock the brakes, which means the tyres are the limiting factor in braking not the brakes themselves. We have never had a rotor failure, we just wear them out. On to the other parts of the braking system............... The main problem I find with R32's is, due to their age, the callipers need servicing, this affects their clamping ability and consistency. For a bit less than $400 you can get a full service, new seals and pistons (if necessary) on the callipers. Brake pads, there are litteraly thousands of choices. We use Bendix Ultimates on road cars and Hawke carbons (blue compound usually) on the race cars. Plenty of others will have other preferences to suite their individual application and driving style. No matter what brake calliper and rotor you use there will be a choice of brake pads, the more unique the calliper, the smaller the number of choices. You have already done the brake hose upgrade to braided, which is well worthwhile on R32's due to age. They are similar prices to new rubber hoses from Nissan anyway. Lastly brake fluid, regardless of the choice of brake fluid it must be changed regularly. Most of the problems I have seen (road and race) are caused by brake fluid past its use by date. We use Castrol SRF, extreme performance, silicon ester based brake fluid with a very high boiling point. When you get the callipers overhauled, start using it from then on as it is best not to mix it. That will have spent a bit less than your $1500 budget, everything will be as new, and you won't believe the improvement.

Yep, it's a bit more complex to calculate and I would need to know the coil spacing. I will post up a picture on how to do it over the weekend. PS. most so called "progressive rate" springs actually are simply designed to remain trapped at full droop. The soft rate is totally soaked up by the weight of the car, so there is no progression in the rate once the spring is installed and compressed.

On topic, maybe I noticed on the warranty documents that the current VZ Commondoor models have a 5 year warranty, I thought well they are must be getting better quality. Then I read the fine print. It is only for 100,000 k's (5 years = 150,000k's for me) It stopped on June 30: :chairshot The diff is only covered for 12 months :confused: The engine is only covered for 2 years:kick: They obviously have ZERO CONFIDENCE in their cars. :spew: Why the hell should I :Bang: PS, Just because you aren't buying a new car, don't think the warranty doesn't mean anything to you. Holden is SO insecure in their diff quality that they won't guarantee them to last more than 12 months. So when you buy a used Commondoor, better plan on replacing the diff once a year.

Heasmans at Sydenham are Eibach agents, they have most spring rates in stock. They can also check the shocks and they have a shock dyno if you want ultimate testing.

www.whiteline.com.au There are a number of articles on Skyline suspension and a full catalogue. On the road and race cars we run Whiteline springs Bilstein shocks Whiteline adjustable stabiliser bars Whiteline strut braces Whiteline adjustable suspension bushes for camber and caster adjustment

Hi Pete, why do you want to change if the spring rate you have now is OK for you? Shocks? Stick some Bilsteins in there? Height? Add the extra circlip grooves.

Absolute bargain, I know how much it costs to build one from scratch. If you want a big balls RB30, this is worth a look.

No:cheers:

I would like to reply, but I don't understand the question. It sounds like you want to stick the POD straight onto the turbo. But why would anyone want to do that when it is going to loose significant horsepower sucking all of that stinking hot air out of the radiator? I must have it wrong, surely? The reason why the AFM is placed post intercooler is to remove the problem with reversion when running a big turbo/turbos. This causes idle problems, especially if there are big cams in there as well. HKS make a voltage smoother (EIDS) that fixes this problem if you don't want to relocate the AFM.

Not a good idea, a resistor reduces the AFM voltage signal to the ECU accross the whole RPM range. This leans it out and advances the igntion timing at all points. But ours was too lean already at boost build and too far advanced as soon as boost was stable. Before and after (particularly) it then needed leaning off and advancing, but not the same amount.

Hahahahahah :werd: :slap: :spew: :fart: :bonk: :dump: :chairshot I have with my own eyes seen an Apexi PFC equiped R33 GTR make 1100 ps and do an 8.5 sec 1/4 at 165 mph (no NOS). And yes, it had a pair of Q45 AFM's as the primary load sensor. :uh-huh: :uh-huh: Recently we have had an R31DET on the engine dyno that made 735 bhp, and you guessed it, Power FC and Q45 AFM's. And then there is my own RB31DET...................... I think you get the hint:cheers:

What sort of high flow is that? Sounds more like a :uh-huh: low flow :uh-huh: :uh-huh: :uh-huh: I have a GCG ball bearing high flow that makes 265 rwkw on an R34GTT Ian (Bullant47) had the same on an R33 GTST and his made 245 rwkw Now he has changed to a VG30 turbine cover and he is up to 271 rwkw This is the thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=78983 If you do exactly what Ian has done (except use Tomei cams instead of HKS ) you will get the same result. And there are at least 6 others in Sydney that I have advised to do similar upgrades and they are getting the same results.

Nice try Ian, we recently sold one, it went with an engine to a place that has no dynos. So we only have the Autronic left, which ain't goin' nowhere. I have ordered a replacement LM1 ($US349.99 RRP) and an RPM cable (RPM plus 5 logging channels) for ($US80 extra). I already have a ventury clamp, which is a must have for low rpm tuning on a car with large exhaust diameter. Otherwise a little ambient air sneaks back around the lambda sensor and hence it gives a leaner reading than is actually the case. I like building electronic kits, so I might just cancel that LM1 order and get one form Tech Edge. That's why I am interested in Tango's project.

OK, you don't think you will need the display, I was thinking for $25 extra for the 2E0 might be wortwhile. Please let me know how it goes.

We have a standard GTR front bar on the GTST, the bar is actually longer where it bolts (screws actually) up to the guards. This is becuase the GTR guards flare out more than the GTST, so the bar needs to be longer to fit. Are you sure you have it pushed right in at the front, over the bumper support?

I had a look at Tech Edge a few months ago, so I will be very interested in how the kit goes together and how it works in the field. Did you get the 2EO kit? The Bosch 7057 lambda sensor? Sensor Connector? The long (4m) cable? What are you doing for an exhaust ventury clamp? Or are you going to plumb the lambda sensor direct into the engine pipe? When I priced it all up it was $374 (inc insurance, postage and GST). For around $150 more I could get the LM1, ready to go. So I am not sure which is the right decision.

Maybe a bit of history will help............. Rally cars used to have all sorts of problems when driven on normal roads. Stuff like to and from rallies, transport stages etc. Then along came targas and the problems just got worse, with overseas competitors, left hand drive cars, non compliable imports etc. For a CAMS event you get a permit, if it involves any road bits then a Govt approval is required. Despite having that approval the EPA and the Police used to sit at the end of a rally or on a transport stage and book the whole field. Even safety stuff like roll cages, 6 point harneses, helmets and fire extinguisher systems were getting busted. This was most embarassing, so CAMS applied to the State Govt's for a Rally Rego Scheme so that cars could have mods for rallying and not get busted. There are some rules; 1. The car MUST be imported for Rallying (mine actually says race/rally). Once it is here you can't change it. As far as I cna see you can get a normal car "rally rego'd", would make defects a thing of the past. 2. The car has 2 inspections, one for rego (blue slip in NSW) and one for rallying (CAMS log book). It is best if you can find one place that does both (Ben Ruggles does that in Sydney, there are probably some in the other states). On the inspection documents are listed all of the mods, roll cage, extra lights. low exhaust, etc. You have to carry a copy of that list with you at all times. If you make other major mods (changing a turbo/camshaft/exhaust doesn't count) you have to get it re-inspected. 3. You pay normal rego and green slip costs, no discount for rally cars. It has to be registered every year just like a normal car. You get 2 rego stickers, one for normal and one that says it's a rally car. That way if you get pulled over the EPA/cops know. 4. When you want to drive it you have to apply for a permit number from your local CAMS office. This sounds like a pain but it's not so bad. At the start of he year I send a list of all the likely events that we might want to enter, I don't have to enter them. I also add in a few running in and testing days just before each event. All together we used 30 odd permits in one year. I don't think it would be a good idea to try for 365 days of testing. 5. Just because it says "rally rego" doesn't mean dirt rally. A targa is a "rally", so the normal mods you would do for a circuit race car would be OK. This means braided brake lines, side exhaust, big turbo, any ECU, gauges, 6 point harness, roll cage, etc etc The initial paperwork and inspection is a pain in the ass, plus the cost of getting a CAMS licence, but once you have done that it is simply a matter of renueing each year. The CAMS website has all of the details and forms that you need to fill in. I am not aware of any "drag rego" scheme between ANDRA and the State Govt's, this seems to be purely a CAMS arrangement. Hope that helps:cheers: