Sydneykid

It's not "my" 180 rwkw, I just used the trusty (well sort of) Moroso Horsepower calculator. It says 311 bhp, and based on my trusty (very) calcs that's 180 rwkw. Blaim Mr Morsoso not me. BTW, our R34GTT ran an 11.9 (at 120 mph) with 265 rwkw, which is within 20 bhp of the horsepower Mr Moroso reckons it would need to do those numbers. Yes, I reckon it does :uh-huh: :uh-huh:

Several things I have noticed since doing the cambelt and adjusting the exhaust camshaft timing; 1. The automatic ECU has 20 degrees as the base timing, not 15 degrees like a manual. 2. There is a lot of parralax error on the timing marks, the marker on the cambelt cover is a long way up and back from the marking on the crankshaft pulley. Take a look at the workshop manual drawing in my early post and you can see the potential for parralax error. 3. Because of #2 above, you have to have the timing light and your eyes aligned and over to the right (looking at the engine). If you look straight down from the centre of the radiator, you get a 5 degree error (ie; 15 degrees looks like 20 degrees). So I had to remove the airfliter snorkel to get my eyes over far enough to eliminate the parralax error. 4. Using the loop wire on the ignitor circuit means the timing light flashes for each cylinder firing (all 6), I was used to only #1 cylinder triggering the timing light. So you get lots of flashes very close together, even at idle. Hope that is of some help:cheers:

Several things I have noticed since doing the cambelt on the Stagea (refer to the Stagea section for pictures and workshop manual diagrams). 1. The automatic ECU has 20 degrees as the base timing, not 15 degrees like a manual. 2. There is a lot of parralax error on the timing marks, the marker on the cambelt cover is a long way up and back from the marking on the crankshaft pulley. Take a look at the workshop manual drawing in my previous post and you can see the potential for parralax error. 3. Because of #2 above, you have to have the timing light and your eyes aligned and over to the right (looking at the engine). If you look straight down from the centre of the radiator, you get a 5 degree error (ie; 15 degrees looks like 20 degrees). 4. Using the loop wire on the ignitor circuit means the timing light flashes for each cylinder firing (all 6), I was used to only #1 cylinder triggering the timing light. So you get lots of flashes very close together, even at idle. Hope that is of some help:cheers:

He has a DFA not an IEBC:cheers:

I have an LM1 as well:cheers:

This is my post from the other thread on LPG for RB25; Based on our experience with other LPG powered cars; You will need to be carefull with your LPG supply, in the push to keep LPG prices low the octane ratings are not what they used to be. We were seeing over 104 ron about 4 years ago, now it is not unusual to get as low as 95 ron. The market for LPG is dominated by taxis and delivery vehicles where cost is important, not the octane rating. The RB25DET has a 9 to 1 static compression ratio. If you are doing it for a cost saving, then be aware that it will take a minimum of 150,000 k's to break even on the cost of a high performance conversion at current petrol and LPG prices. It is also worth noting that the distance travelled between tank fills (asumming the same litreage) is considerably shorter due to the lower calorific value of LPG. Plus you are looking at a 40 to 50kg weight gain in the necessary hi pressure tank and components. This will require an upgrade in the rear spring rates which will compromise traction and handling due to the shift in weight balance. In addition there is a 75mm reduction in ground clearance if the tank is underslung (that means no lowering). Or a ~65% reduction in boot space if it is mounted there. Hope that was of some help

Heasmans at Sydenham St George Steering at Punchbowl East Coast at Kirrawee Whiteline at Minto

Do a leak down test, dry first to establish the total leak down from each cylinder. Then do a wet test (squirt oil in each cylinder, enough to cover piston crowns and seal the rings). That will tell you how much of the total leak is due to poor valve seating.

My understanding is 270 cc's:cheers:

You should be able to reduce the output voltage using the controller on that particular load point. But the 5.1 volts may be off the scale of the load points. Maybe try putting a resister in series with your 5.1 volt supply to lower it down around 4 volts. That should give you a load point that you can adjust. Let me know how you get on:cheers:

OK guys settle. I will sort this out with him. I have PM you, please respond. If there is a moderator tuned, you have my permission to delete the thread.

A very small scratch above the rear RHS window, where it flipped up I guess.

What the????? Please tell me what parts, I have no idea what you are talking about and my name isn't Matt. I have never heard of you, I have never received a PM from you, I have never received an email from you. PM me and I will try and sort out your problem:cheers:

Ooooops, driving down the freeway today at 110 kph into a strong headwind, click, click, rattle, rattle, snap, bang, no wind deflector. It has only left about 5 mm, the width of the clips, the rest is gooooone. Now, where do I find a replacement? :confused:

My 1989 Skyline has a BOV standard, oops it actually has 2 X BOV's standard:cheers:

Oh shoot, you had better throw your intercooler away, they don't have one of those either :whatsthat :whatsthat :whatsthat

Hi Trust33; 1. The weakest link is always the weakest link, but there is no doubt that more contact patch from less roll will help any tyre. 2. When you lower them they end up at 1 to 1.5 degrees negative anyway, then add the Whiteline adjusters and you usually get 2.5 degrees negative. Which is not a bad place to start 3. Nope

I don't want to start a dyno argument here, but............... 12.8 for 1/4 = 311 horsepower using the heaviest weight I have ever seen an R32GST plus 120 kgs for the driver. That's around 180 rwkw, which is what I would expect out of a set of standard RB20DET injectors wiht a bit of extra fuel pressure. Therein lies the problem, I see all sorts of miraculous horsepower claims from standard injectors. But when we run the car on another dyno or down the 1/4 they amazingly come back to what the calculator says they should make.

I had the same problem on the Stagea, brand new tyres, standard rims and it had noticeable shake from 90 kph and quite bad at 100 kph. Took it back to have the tyres checked, all was OK. Still shake, shake, shake. I put up with it till I had to do a trip to Melbourne and back in 3 days. Enough was enough. So I took it to a friend of mine who runs a huge tyre shop and we tried the wheels on 3 different balancers. All 3 showed different results, but 2 were pretty close, so we used them. Back onto the Stagea and no shake since. My best suggestion is to take it back to whoever balanced them last time and ask for them to be checked. If you can find an on car balancer in your area maybe give it a try, they will pick up any fitment issues. I have had the same problem with other cars, so it's not a Skyline problem. Hop onto any specialist car forum and you will always find some guys with vibration problems.

I know where you are coming from Roy, I always wanted a '69 Mustang, just like Moffat's. Then I drove one for 4 weeks while a friend was away using my car. It drove like a XW Falcon, in fact most of the mechanical parts in it where interchangeable with a Futura. When he got back we took it to the ciruit for some fun, but we could only do 1 lap until the brakes were gone, 2 laps before the tyres cried enough and 3 laps before it lost oil pressure due to overheating. And my wife's stock standard Civic was faster, much faster. :chairshot Shall I tell you the 'vette story about one breaking in half when the fibreglass failed? Or the Comaro convertible that lost its roof at 60kph? Nah better not, it would only destroy the boyhood dreams.

I have been hanging off posting on the relevancy of a purpose built race engine, purpose built exhaust, inlet, restrictor limited, boost constrained, 900 kg car that has a 6 speed pneumatic gearbox. The chassis itself was designed to fit around the engine, so there were no installation compromises either. For heavens sake, they change the turbo specifications and gearbox ratios depending on whether they are running at LeMans or Daytona. If I had their budget I could probably afford to have everything exactly matched and wouldn't need a BOV either. But I don't, I have a production based engine with an off the shelf manifold that has to fit inside a production engine bay, with production gear ratios and it has to be driven to work everyday and live on the circuit occasionally. Not one ciruit, but 5 different circuits. It makes about as much sense as the 1980's F1 comparison, which is not farkin much. I was there in Adelaide and saw Senna drive the Lotus, it had heaps of lag and piss poor throttle response compared to the the N/A cars that were all over it in the corners. I will always remember Colin Chapman's philosophy, "an F1 car is over engineered if it lasts the slow down lap after the end of the race". The concept was EVERYTHING on the car should fail the instant it cross the finish line. Otherwise it was too heavy and excessively engineered. :chairshot I have seen an ex F1 turbo, a friend of mine owns one, the thing is huge, weighs about 30 kgs and has all sorts of exotic materials used in its construction, all the 'ums, titanium, magnesium, berilium etc. I am not suprised it didn't need a BOV to make it through 2 hours of racing, the thing would survive an atomic bomb. Time marches on, F1 cars have power steering, imagine what CC would have said to an engineer who suggested putting power steering on a Lotus F1 car in the 80's. :werd: I have had enough of the purpose built race car stuff:cheers:

My 20 cents worth of observations; Is bonnet clearance going to be a concern? The most common cracking I have seen is where the primary pipes join to the cylinder head flange. This is caused by the pipes getting very hot and the weight of the turbo and wastegate hanging off the welds where the pipes join the flange. Looking at the photos, I can't see any gusseting there? Another common cause is hanging the weight of the exhaust system off the turbine flange. The best way to avoid this is to have an exhaust support bracket around where the gearbox bell housing bolts to the engine block. This supports the exhaust itself and also helps to support the turbo and takes some of the load off the manifold.

Hi Rob, by retarding the exhaust camshaft timing I am aiming for more mid range, but I can get a bit of top end as well. There is also some faster spooling to gained as well. What it achieves is more complete combustion, before the exhaust valves open. Plus you get slightly higher combustion pressure, for more torque. You don't get something for nothing though, it also means you get less overlap, the inlet valve isn't open at the same time as the exhaust valve for as long. This means the incoming inlet charge (air and fuel) doesn't help push the exhaust out. This is why it works well with a bit of extra boost (above standard) as that offsets the shorter "push" time. It's not quite a win/win, but there isn't much downside:cheers:

I will pop in here, if it's OK; We always have the battery in the boot (better weight distribution) so it is a short run for both earth and positive. I use the standard pump wire to switch the relay (solid state, I don't like sparking contacts around fuel). I get the relay, wire and fuses from Jaycar or Dick Smith.