Sydneykid

We don't use them:cheers:

I have had at least 5 genuine Nissan RB26DETT N1 oil pumps. There is NO DIFFERENCE to a standard R33GTR RB26DETT oil pump. However they are not the same as a standard RB25DET or RB20DET oil pump. The RB26DETT N1 oil pump has exactly the same oil flow rate as an R33GTR RB26DETT oil pump, the only difference is they have a stronger pressure relief spring. They should not be confused with the aftermarket oil pumps from Jun, HKS, APexi etc. They are truly high flow as well as high pressure. This is confirmed by their cost which is 3 times what an N1 pump is sold for. I have personally replaced 2 X N1 water pumps in RB26's that overheated in traffic. Put the standard RB26DETT water pump in and they have problems. The N1 pump is designed for zero cavitation at sustained high rpm, not low rpm in city traffic with the aircon on a 40 degree day. The designation "N1" is for the Class of Production Car Racing, Nissan did not make these parts for a "better" road car. They are designed for circuit racing applications. It is that simple.

Or the installer over tightened the cam belt, I have seen it sooooo often:cheers:

Hi Michael, by rechipping it is possible to change the AFM Voltage ramp table in the standard R32GTR ECU. This was not unusual until Apexi came out with the affordable Power FC. them most tuning shops in Japan stopped playing with the standard ECU. My suggestions; Change the plugs Be carefull, it is most likely tuned for 100 octane Listen for pre-ignition Get the A/F ratios checked On the dyno for diagnostic power run, best $50 you will ever spend.

Hi guys, on the Datalogit Settings, Page 3 there is configurable table for the 20 map reference points for RPM and the 20 map reference points for Airflow. The default RPM reference points are in 400 rpm increments from 400 rpm to 8,000 rpm. The default Airflow reference points are 1446 (load point 2) increasing by 482 up to load point 10 then 964 from load point 10 to load point 15 then 1928 from load point 15 to load point 20. This is determined by the Air Flow Curves (AFM voltage ramp table) which is also on Settings Page 3 Hope that was of some help

Castrol Syntrax 75W90.

Some of my previous posts on BOV's; --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Oh no, the old "BOV's don't do anything" line ............. Why did Nissan fit them? Why did the early turbo engines (someone used the NICS and RB30ET examples) not use them and had recommended turbo servicing at 60,000 ks'? Why do the later Nissan engines have recommended turbo servicing at 120,000 k's? Does anyone really think that Nissan wasted money on BOV's, fitting something that wasn't necessary? They would have saved millions of dollars over the life of R32/33/34 and S13/14/15 and Stagea and ............you get the drift. Does any out there really believe that comparing race cars with no BOV's and road cars is realistic? Give me a break, we service turbos every 2,000 ks' of racing. Personally I don't want to be doing that on my road car. With a boost gauge plumbed to the comprressor housing you can easily see what happens to the pressure at the compressor when you close the throttle without a BOV, double the set boost limit is not unusual. Does any one really think that that is somehow good for your turbo? Everyone has heard the turbo flutter noise when the throttle is closed and no BOV is fitted and noise = vibration at the tubine blades. Does any one really think that that is somehow good for your turbo? As for slowing the rpm versus reversing the flow. On the engine dyno I have seen large amounts of air flow out of the compressor inlet on throttle close. That air is coming from somwehere and it has to get past the compressor blades to get out. So I have no problem with the thought that the compressor blades stop or turn backwards. Even if they only slow rapidly, does any one really think that that is somehow good for your turbo? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The idea of a BOV is to prevent the air from reversing direction when the throttle is closed. This has 2 effects; 1. It prevents the compressor being suddenly stopped (or run backwards) when the air rushes back the wrong way. 2. It keeps the air (in the intercooler and pipework) moving in the right direction ie; towards the engine. So it would appear to me that #1 would be satisfied no matter where the BOV is located. But #2 is best satisfied by having the BOV as close to the throttle body as possible. That way none of the air is going the wrong way. This would mean better throttle response when the throttle is re-opened. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- So by not running a BOV or by excessivley tightening it, you are shortening the life of your turbo and you are decreasing the performance of your engine. It seems like a dumb idea to me. If you want to know more, do a search, this subject has been discussed so many times:cheers:

Ok, after driving it around for 2 weeks now its time to try some adjustments of the exhaust camshaft timing. I figured I would try 4 degrees retarded to start with, as it is the most common setting; The first job is to remove the airfliter snorkel and the CAS Then remove the top cambelt cover Then the alloy CAS mount has to be removed to enable access to the adjustable pulley slide retaining bolts; Undo the slide retaining bolts and rotate the camshaft (and the inner portion of the pulley) 2 markings (1 marking = 2 degrees crankshaft as it states on the pulley) Then tighten the slide retaining bolts, I will loctite them when I am sure that I have the right setting. Then replace the CAS mount, the cambelt cover and the CAS and check the timing. Small adjustment required to advance the ignition timing to compensate for the 4 degrees that I retarded the exhaust camshaft. Rotate the CAS anticlovkwise to advance the ignition timing. I will drive it around for few days and get a feel for what it is like at that setting. I may then try 3 degrees and 5 degrees just to see which feels better. Then I will stick it on the dyno and see whether my selection is in fact the best. Hope that was of some help and happy camshaft timing adjusting

A sister engine to the RB31DET going into the R32GTST.

Sorry SteveL, but they are not. I use Konis on lots of cars, I like them very much. But not on Skylines, since they are not sold in Europe, Koni use Japanese recommended valving. This simply does not work as well as the Bilstein valving in our conditions. I am not the only one with this opinion, check around the guys that have tried both.

That is one of my old tables (about 2 years old I think), we have now reached 420+rwkw with a single Q45. Is the 100 mm the OD of the compressor inlet or the ID? The true comparison is the ID not the OD. The turbo on ther R32GTST has a 100 mm OD compressor inlet but only an 84 mm ID. Hence the90mm Q45 is a pretty good fit. I have seen a Q45 hot wire installed in aluminium pipework. It was 100 OD, but the tuning for off idle response was a bit tricky. Inlet restriction (before the turbo) can not really be compared with an exhaust restriction. The exhaust restriction has a double effect, firstly it limits the egress of the exhaust (obviously). To that is added the limitation of the air into the engine. This manifests itself as higher boost, needed to overcome the exhaust restriction. Nom, as per above. Yes, do a search we have discussed this option a number of times. I have even seen a car with it done. It is usefull if the turbo has a large amount of reversion that can cause problems with the AFM measuring the airflow twice. Once on the way and once on the way out. This results in very rich running at low rpms, stalling, rough idle etc. Hope thet above was of some help:cheers:

www.whiteline.com.au Make sure you check out the Skyline articles

Yep, lots, do a search:cheers:

Power Fc's have Injector warning (for high duration), Knock warning (for excessive preignition) and Airflow warning (for excessive airflow). All of these have threshholds that trigger the dash warning light. The threshholds are adjustable. High rpm could be either excessive injector duty or excessive airflow. Set the Commander into Monitor mode and check the readouts. From memory the default threshholds are; 1. Injectors 98.0 2. Knock 60 3 AFM 1020 Hope that was of some help:cheers:

Hi Shaun, I have already shared my thoughts with you directly, but for the other readers; Based on what we have already done for our race R32GTST, that is getting the new RB31DET, I would use an R32GTST Power FC; 1. It will plug into your original R32GTST wiring harness. Zero rewiring costs. 2. Swap all of the sensors off your RB20DET 3. Use a single Q45 AFM ($300) (one turbo = one AFM), just select Q45 on the PFC AFM menu 4. The base maps and all of the sensor calibration will work with your combination 5. This means it will start and run on the default maps, you can start you own engine 6. Usually quite well enough to drive it gently to the tuner, this is the big advantage with a Power FC. That means zero installation costs 7. Costs ~$1,000 for the R32GTST PFC 8. You only have to buy a Commander ($400) if you want one, most tuners have them 9. You can borrow my Commander or my Datalogit for tuning if you want. YOU (not someone you have to pay by the hour) can check all the sensor calibration and fault find with the Commander. 10. That's another advantage of the Power FC, there are plenty around to borrow/learn from 11. The Power FC comes with very nice cold start, cold run, warm start, hot run, aircon, power steering and electrical load compensation. This take days to program into a Motec/Autronic and add considerably to the delays (before you can enjoy your car) and costs. Cold start and run tuning can take 3 or 4 days as you can only do it once per day, in the morning when the engine is totally cold. 12. The Power FC will handle HUGE injectors, we have used up to 1300 cc injectors and the engine runs perfectly and gets good economy (considering it power output). 13. As a result the tuning costs are minimised, around $400 is not unusual 14. Multiple throttle bodies and turbos are not good friends with MAP sensors, you get far superior airflow sense out of an AFM. The bottom line, we use Motec, Autronic, Microtech and Electromotive ECU's (as well as Power FC) and I can guarantee you won't get anything that approaches the value for money and "nice" running that you will get out of a Power FC.

How do you know that your oil pump stopped working? Maybe it's the oil pressure gauge that isn't working? Maybe it's the oil pressure sensor that isn't working?

By far, most of the parts that give the RB26 the extra performance are not interchangeable. Things like cams, valves, valve springs, followers, injectors, inlet manifold exhaust manilfold, inlet plenum, throttle bodies, turbos, dumps, engine pipes, inlet air temp sensor, ECU etc Sure I can use the same spark plugs, oil filter, CAS, water temp sensor etc but they are hardly what I would class as "performance" increasers.

1. Yes, or a piggy back, or a rechip of your standard ECU 2. Yes 3. No

The Garrett versus HKS debate rages world wide, it would be so easy to settle if one of the hundreds of magazines around the world did a one on one comparison. I have seen Trust versus HKS comparisons, Apexi versus Trust comparisons.........but I have never seen a HKS versus Garret comparison. Why do you think that is the case? :confused: :confused: :confused: Every turbo user/enthusiast wants to know the answer :uh-huh: :uh-huh: :uh-huh: Surely that would be enough reason to do a comparison Any magazine that did meaningfull tests would sell like hotcakes :Pimp2: :Pimp2: :Pimp2: But any results are locked away so we will never find out :lock: :lock: :lock: My personal theory is the magazines are afraid (very afraid) of doing that comparison. HKS themselves and HKS resellers are big advertisers in those magazines. Imagine what would happen if the comparison proved that there was no difference? Or heaven forbid, the Garrett won?

Hi Kym, the Whiteline heights are the "settled" heights, there should be no need to adjust their height.

The inlet and exhaust manifold stud patterns wers made deliberately different by Nissan to stop people from putting R26 manifolds on RB25's. They believed it would increase the exclusivity of the GTR and support its higher price.

What do you want to know? We use RB20, RB25, RB26 and SR20 Datalogit software.

I haven't ever seen that problem on RB's, even with standard dumps and engine pipes. I wouldn't worry about it until you actually experience it on your car.