Sydneykid

Hi Brett, lots of alternatives, they have decompressed the engine so it will tolerate high boost, hence 300 rwkw is not out of the question. The GCG ball bearing hi flow will get you ~265 rwkw, so it is well within the capability of the engine. Sorry, we only use ball bearing turbos, so I can't comment on the T67. You could use a GT3037, or a GT3040, or a GT2560, or a GT2835, external wastegate would be better, as would a decent exhaust manifold. It really depends on the budget and how serious you are about drifting.

Around $800 for a set of 4.

Simple stuff, nothing too confusing there; They don't now have far the enginehas travelled and it wasn't rebuild, just a thick headgasket was installed. It has a standard tubo because they haven't upgraded it yet. Lots of stuff was done ready for a bigger turbo, but it didn't get done. It also sounds like it has the standard ECU, but there may be some tricks with the AFM or its voltage signal to the standard ECU. Worth having a close look at the AFM and the wiring into the ECU. It has 3" pipework because they wanted to make sure there was no restriction on the standard turbo. That way it will flow as well as it can. Standard turbos don't like much more than 10 psi for long periods, so the 3" pipework makes sure the full 10 psi gets to the engine. It also helps to lower the inlet air temps, so they could run lots of ingition timing (advanced) for more torque. That's the same reason why they used the HKS TR intercooler, make sure there is no restriction. Get as low loading on the turbo as possible. It has standard injectors, the stated rating is 370 cc's, but they generally flow a little more in real life, hence the 380cc's. The camshafts are HKS264/264 and it sounds like they also fitted solid followers, not hydraulic. Have a close listen, you should be able to pick the slight tick tick of the lash. Camshaft pulleys (2) would indicate it no longer has VVT, so the cams are probably GTR 264/264 as the VVT (inlet pulley) pulley won't fit. Logically that's why they have gone for 2 adj pulleys. The camshaft timing has been set up for the best response and torque, not simply maximum power. Turbo back exhaust, Sard FPR, Greddy radiator, POD you already know about. It has a twin plate HKS clutch, but they have no idea what gearbox or diff it has. In summary, it was a work in progress, the turbo was on the list to get done as was the ECU. Hope that was of some help:cheers:

Whiteline springs and Bilstein shocks. If you want more details, do a search, this is the most popular discussion point on the Suspesnion section.

My suggestions follow; Fuel pressure regulator would be my first guess. Is the boost supply to the regulator stable? Second choice would be fuel pump, do you have a dedicated power supply circuit and relay for the 044? If you are using the standard wiring (for anything other than switching the relay) that can be a problem. What pump are you feeding the suge tank with? Where is the fuel filter in the ciruit? What size is it? Too small and it can be a restriction? You should get well over 350 rwkw before the standard lines become an issue.

Pop over to the Stagea section for a full install with pictures on the Jaycar DFA & IEBC:cheers:

Type M has 4 spot front brake callipers and 2 spot rear callipers, while the non Type M has sliding callipers.

Well done Ian, that's a great result, it's the extra ~50 rwkw at ~4,500 rpm that impresses me.

Sorry for those waiting patiently, it's very hectic around here. We have a race meeting in Darwin this weekend (1 car), Sandown (2 cars) in 2 weeks then Oran Park (4 cars) the next week. I simply haven't had much time for sleep, let alone Stagea mods and testing. It IS planned for next week at this stage.

That would seem to indicate that the coil isn't earthed properly, are the bolts tight?

No, that is part of the equation, on an F1 car (and most high downforce open wheelers) it is pretty much ALL of the equation. But from the stiffest to the softest sidwalls is nothing (maybe 1 or 2 degrees) compared to the stiffest and the softest chassis (maybe 15 degrees). Obviously tyre pressure is relevant, pump them up to 100 psi and it won't matter what the sidewall is. That's why we use a tyre pyrometer to set the camber, the tread temperature tells us pretty much everything we need to know. Too much neg camber = too hot on the inside Too little neg camber = too hot on the outside Too much pressure = too hot in the middle Too little pressure = too cold in the middle But it is all interrelated of course. For example, if the tyre is too hot on the outside I could increase the neg camber, or stiffen up the stabiliser bar, or go to a higher spring rate or increase the bump valving on the shock. That's where the fun starts, which one do I choose?

Yes, it depends on where the spark is jumping. If it is down the inside of the coil to the plug body, then it is hard to see. If it is from the outside of the coil to the cylinder head it is very bright and easy to see.

Last time I looked there were over 20 possible combinations of compressors and turbines for T04E. There are combinations for 350 bhp and combinations for 550 bhp. So which combination is the one you are looking at? The T04B is a little better, from memory there are only 15 or so combinations for it.

Pipercross panel filter (~$60) in the standard airbox, so far good for 265 rwkw; http://shop.fabre.com.au/

Closer to $4K per corner:cheers:

Yes:cheers:

You want me to list them all? OK, but only the ones that you can't access via the Commander Inlet air temp fuel map Water temp fuel map RPM acceleration fuel map Cranking Injector dwell map Water temp versus boost fuel correction Inlet air temp versus boost fuel correction RPM Load Point table AFM load point table AFM voltage table Ignition versus water temp correction Ignition versus inlet air temp correction Ignition dwell versus RPM correction Ignition versus battery voltage correction Ignition versus boost correction Individual injector trim Injector lag versus battery voltage correction Via the Datalogit there is also; Antilag via injection Antilag via ignition Intercooler spray Basically anything that you want to turn on or off Then there is the logging Every standard sensor is logged Plus 4 others (eg; lambda, brake temperature, suspension travel etc etc) That's from memory, please excuse me if I forgot any:cheers:

Quad adjustable, remote canister Swedish (not Japanese) Ohlins:cheers:

Great post Craig, not easy to explain in plain English. My 20 cents worth on this bit; I think Jun are caught between a rock and hard place, They need to lower the compression ratio to run the huge boost, but they know they will have detonation issues if they stick a thick head gasket in there. Using a bowled piston would have the same effect. They can't machine out the combustion chamber as there is not enough metal to the water jacket. So they remove the squish ramps. Certainly not ideal, but the best of a bad bunch of choices.

Whiteline coil springs and Bilstein shocks, lowering 25 mm front and 30 mm rear. Springs didn't make much difference to the handling but the shocks sure did. Stabiliser bars (front and rear), adjustable caster bushes (big improvement) and some adjustable camber bushes to keep the tyre wear in check.

Kayaba, big shock absorber manufacturer in Japan, make many, many OE shocks for car manufacturers. Good reliability, sensible valving and OK pricing. Personally I prefer Bislteins for Skylines but you could do a lot worse than KYB:cheers:

I would recommend an SAFC or DFA, hop over to the Stagea section (Jaycar DFA and IEBC thread) for more info:cheers:

The standard ECU will go heavily rich and retard when the AFM voltages exceeds 5.1 volts. On the other hand a Power FC doesn't care, it just keeps on supplying fuel and igntion according to the maps. You can have RPM load points that exceed the AFM load points and so you can have reasonable fuel and ignition. Provided the engine uses air and needs ignition timing in a linear fashion this is not a problem. The only time it becomes a problem is if the engine has a jump in its fuel or ignition requirements after the AFM has reached its maximium voltage. Then it becomes tricky to tune. That's why you can survive with a maxed out AFM as long as it not too much and the engine's requirements are predictable. Most tuners would reach for an AFM with higher airflow per volt (Z32, Q45 etc) rather than risk the engine.

It depends on how much body roll you get on the rear, if it is dead flat them zero camber will give the most even wear. That's unusual though, even the best drift cars have some lean, even if it is only tyre compression not suspension. If it rolls, then a little negative will compensate (for the roll) and keep the tyre parrallel to the road.

I haven't tried it on the Stagea, which may be different due to it having the ignitors in the coils, but the R32's don't show any difference. I have used the wire up #1 coil trick on them and it's the same as the loop. Well as good as my eyes can tell anyway.