Sydneykid

Strut braces make no difference what so ever to body roll. Strut braces simply attempt to strengthen the chasis such that the static wheel alignment settings are maintained dynamically (ie; when the car is on the move).

My suggestions; 1. The dash warning is usually set around 40 or so 2. 85 degrees C is usually considered to be the target water temp for maximum power. Anything up to 105 degrees is not unusual, but around 80 to 90 is where it should run. 3. Max AFM voltage is ~5.1 volts

And then charge them for it?

Some counters; 1. No it won't, you will lucky to get much more than 65% of the consumption out of 1 litre of LPG compared to 1 litre of petrol. For a start 1 litre of LPG weighs ~80% of what 1 litre of petrol weighs. Then you use more LPG making the same power because of its lower calourific value, around 15% more is not uncommon. So that $22 fill is only going to take you half as far as what $55 worth of petrol will. 2. You need to do more research, they may show good max power, but their average power is way down on what an equivalent petrol engine would make. For example we have a LPG powered Ford V8 that makes 525 bhp (on the engine dyno) with an average power from 3,500 rpm to 6,500 rpm of 360 bhp. A similar engine on petrol making 535 bhp would be over 400 bhp average. 3. From my experience with the EPA you most certainly do need a cat if the car came/was complied with a cat. 4. Oh dear, you really need to have a go at cleaning the crap that accumulates very quickly in an LPG mixer. I'll take a fuel filter change every 10,000k's and an injector clean every 50,000k's thank you. Another dissadvantage we found was the resale value of LPG powered high performacne vehicles was much lower than the equivalent petrol powered ones. There is only one advantage and its cost over time, and even that is questionable as the time line is long. Plus there are moves (by 2008) to have LPG taxed at higher values to bring it more in line with petrol and diesel taxes. So even that advantage is subject to change within the time necessary to recover the conversion cost.

The standard injectors will run out of flow at around 205 rwkw in an auto. I would suggest a GCG ball bearing hi flow of your standard turbo would be best for your purposes. The alternative (if you MUST have a brand name) would be an HKS 2530. Do a search if you want more info.

You're in Brisbane only, there are plenty of Power FC tuners all over the country. Unless you are going to give your software away, it is useless for anyone who can't get to your shop. So the answer remains Power FC.

Only 100% plumb back could be considered legal.

You don't NEED the standard FPR, but if you remove it, what are you going to replace it with? It has to be a fitting that bolts to the end of the standard fuel rail and has plumbing to supply the excess fuel to the aftermarket FPR. So it is easier/cheaper to simply leave the standard FPR there.

It's all in the numbers; 300 rwkw + 60 kw losses = 360 kw X 1.34 = 482 bhp Six 550 cc injectors are capable of ~550 bhp No problem there The correct injector rating is 550 cc per minute 6 X 550 = 3.3 litres per minute So a 4.1 litres per minute fuel pump shouldn't have much of a problem Hope that helps:cheers:

Yep, I have heard that the R34GTT injectors aren't 370cc's like the R33GTST injectors. But (there is always a but) on our R34GTT the standard injectors ran out of flow capacity at ~215 rwkw which is pretty much the same as the R33GTST injectors. Maybe the Neo makes better use of its fuel (more efficient) and the injectors are in fact slightly smaller (maybe 360 cc's or 355 cc's). But it isn't much, that's for sure.

Lowering in itself it is not really the issue, it is the improvement you get from increasing the spring rate by the 25 to 30%. You also get the bonus of a little negative camber on the front which you don't get at standard height. The downside is you get a bit too much negative at the rear, but as I said previously this can be adjusted out. Standard height, brand new off the showroom floor is ~380 mm less the usual 30mm lowering = 350 mm. They generally settle around 10mm from new, so the ones we see here are usually around 370 mm.

What sort of aftermarket fuel pressure regulator (FPR) do you have? We use Nismo FPR's ($180 from Nengun), they replace the standard FPR. 1. So we just unbolt the standard FPR from the fuel rail, replace it with the Nismo FPR and swap over the vacuum hose (from the standard FPR to the Nismo FPR) 2. Then we set up the fuel pressure, to standard (36-38 psi) using a fuel pressure gauge 3. If we need more (or less ) fuel flow we adjust the FPR on the dyno to achieve the AF ratios we want. Note that #2 requires a fule pressure gauge and #3 requires a dyno, do you have either of those? If not I would not suggest fitting it yourself as it is very easy to run too low fuel pressure and detonate (via lean running) your engine. If you have bought a stand alone FPR (does not replace the standard FPR) then you simply mount it somewhere close by the standard FPR. Run the fuel return so it goes; fuel rail--->std FPR--->aftermarket FPR---> std return to the tank You will need to T into the vacuum supply (from the plenum to the std FPR) to supply vacuum to the aftermarket FPR. Hope that was of some hlep:cheers:

400 PS = 298 kw - 60 kw losses = 238 rwkw HKS seem to rate their turbos around 10% conservative, so; 440 PS = 328 kw - 60 kw losses = 268 rwkw

I thought I covered that with this; A split dump separates the wastegate and turbine gases. Or have I missed something :confused:

My suggestions; 1. The catch can plumbing is OK. 2. (Red Arrow) Blocking off the breather to the inlet (between the AFM and the turbo) is OK. This stops any oil mist getting into the turbos, pipework and intercooler. This is a good thing as the oil mist condenses and acts as an insulator which stops the heat transfer out of the inlet air in the intercooler. 3. (Yellow Arrow) Keeping the PCV valve (and its plumbing) connected will mean that oil mist gets into the combustion process when the engine is not on boost. The main propblem with oil mist is that it promotes detonation on boost. So continuing to use the PCV valve means any oil mist on overrunn will get burnt as per the standard PCV process. (A) You could simply block the PCV system off and remove the standard plumbing, that way all oil mist will go into the catch can. (B) You could replace the filter on the catch can with a hose that connects to the PCV valve. That way any oil mist will get trapped by the stainles steel wool in the catch can and not get into the combustion process, ever. You would need to disconnect and remove the standard plumbing from the RHS cam cover to the PVC valve. This is a totally closed system (not open to ambient air), so it would be fully legal. That's the 3 ways you can run a catch can, you currently have 50% plumb back, (A) is 100% open to atmosphere, (B) is 100% plumb back. Hope that makes sense:cheers:

Suggestions follow; 1. PFC is the go, it is cheaper all up, the install is a simple plug in, car will run on the base maps, drive it to the dyno, $300 job finished. 2. GT30 (do a search plenty of guys have used GT30's on RB25's) 3. BATMBL split dumps will work fine, don't understand the boosting question. 4. The 0.82 would be my choice as I prefer response, I can use the boost controller to soften the boost hit if I want.

That's a Power FC:cheers:

I don't think it matters which way the solenoid is wired, but I would go for black to the ECU and red to the + power source. You could use the 12 volts switched, positive that supplies the AFM, it's close by where you will mostly likely mount the boost control solenoid. It doesn't draw much current, so it shouln't be a problem.

I never run R32 2wd Skylines lower than 350 mm, that's the lowest I have seen with the Whiteline #73175 (front) and #70191 (rear). That's using standard shocks or Bilsteins with the lower spring seat circlip set in the standard position. At 355mm (or higher) front camber is not usually a problem, around 1 degree negative which seems to suite most spirited drivers. The rear camber does need adjusting, but in most cases I find the standard camber adjusters (on max positive adjustment) usually give around 0.75 degree negative. Which again seems to suite most spirited drivers. Keeping that in mind I would buy a set of springs, install them and then check the camber. You may not have to buy any camber adjustable bushes, and if you do it will most likely only be one set of rears #KCA347. Then it stabiliser bar time.

As someone has already suggested, do a leak down test. In ~20 minutes that will tell you if it is an internal engine problem.

Nope, I reckon it is best to do them one at a time, so you can feel the effect of each upgrade as you do it. That way you can tell which one gives you the best bang for your buck. Stabiliser bars always do it for me, unbeatable value and you can fit them yourself, no special tools required.

How about cutting the HKS copy split dump just before the split pipes rejoin. Then weld a 3" pipe to the turbine outlet pipe that goes all the way to the cat. Also extend the wastegate pipe so that it joins more than 400 mm away from the turbine.

Based on our experience with other LPG powered cars; You will need to be carefull with your LPG supply, in the push to keep LPG prices low the octane ratings are not what they used to be. We were seeing over 104 ron about 4 years ago, now it is not unusual to get as low as 95 ron. The market for LPG is dominated by taxis and delivery vehicles where cost is important, not the octane rating. The RB25DET has a 9 to 1 static compression ratio. If you are doing it for a cost saving, then be aware that it will take a minimum of 150,000 k's to break even on the cost of a high performance conversion at current petrol and LPG prices. It is also worth noting that the distance travelled between tank fills (asumming the same litreage) is considerably shorter due to the lower calorific value of LPG. Plus you are looking at a 40 to 50kg weight gain in the necessary hi pressure tank and components. This will require an upgrade in the rear spring rates which will compromise traction and handling due to the shift in weight balance. In addition there is a 75mm reduction in ground clearance if the tank is underslung (that means no lowering). Or a ~65% reduction in boot space if it is mounted there. Hope that was of some help:cheers:

We have an R34GTT that makes 265rwkw (11.9 & 120 mph 1/4) and has the standard airbox with a Pipercross filter. It has GCG ball bearing hi flow, Tomei poncams, R33GTR intercooler, S15 JDM Manual injectors, Z32AFM, Power FC with Boost Control Kit, split dump, Magic cat, 3.25" exhaust, ported and polished cylinder head. I am comfortable that the standard airbox and Pipercross filter are not costing power and they maintain the standard look which is important. Hope that was of some help:cheers:

On an R33GTST RB25DET the standard boost control solenoid wiring is included in the same harness as the AFM wiring. Have a look around that wiring harness and you should find it. If not, then you will have to connect (run a new wire) the earth back to the ECU pin, the positive goes to a switched (with ignition) power source.