Sydneykid

I am tossing around the idea of giving this a try. The VVT advances the inlet camshaft timing, but maybe not enough. Remember it is primarlily an emissions device, so they can meet the standards and still make good power. What if the engine would make more power with more advance, but then not pass the emissions requirements? Emissions wins, power looses every time. It is not simply VVT ---- OR ---- adjustable inlet camshaft timing You can have both, a win win is possible

The electronics for a decent/accurate/consistent A/F ratio display are fairly complex. They have to be free air calibrated and preheated for accuracy prior to logging. A lap top would not have the voltage or current capacity to handle even that part. I did a quick survey a couple of months ago and asked how many people were interested in renting one of ours. We have 2 X LM1's with 4 channel internal logging for around 40 minutes running and serial connection to a lap top (or desk top) for analysis. They also come with a training video, manuals, a long cable (to reach the tail pipe) and a ventury lambda sensor clamp for accurate results. The cost was around $100 a week to cover consumables (lambda sensors & cables mostly) and recalibration, with a $500 deposit refundable on return. I didn't really get a strong response, I guess because, while you can tune the car perfectly, you don't get the all important (to some people) power reading. Plus it does require a modicum of skill and understanding, that maybe put a few people off. Since I made that offer we have sold one of the LM1's, it went with the car to a place that has no dynos. I have another one on order (we can't have our only one out all the time) which should be here in a couple of weeks. If you are still interested I will let you know.

Autronic, great ECU, had 8 of them so far on the race BM's and Commondoors. Arguably better than Motec at a lower price. Direct interface to the Autronic CDI which is much cheaper that the Motec equivalent. Then use the Autronic CDI to drive the Mercury outboard CDI coils. Great set up, lots of options with datalogging and effective self tune via the Autronic A/F ratio meter and F&W lambda sensor. Only downside is they have to be set up from scratch, all sensors have to be calibrated, injectors, fuel pump etc etc. They don't like the standard wiring harnes, so some rewiring required. Cold start and run, hot start, warm up, idle, aircon, power steering, electrical load compensation etc etc all have to be tuned. Power tuning is simple, but it may take a week to tune cold start and run as it can only be done once per day. If done in summer, may have to be redone in winter or vice versa. All the stuff that makes a car "nice" to drive takes a long time to tune. I have seen an Autronic equiped Skyline go back for tuning 6 times and that was after it had been there for a week. That is where the Power FC is hard to beat, all that hugely time consuming (and expensive by the hour) stuff is already done.

Hi Matt; what tailshaft does it have in there now? We have NEVER broken a GTR tailshaft or uni in any of the race cars.

And it was made by? And it cost?

Hi Andrew, don't slow down so much for the corners. :crazy: :crazy: :crazy: :crazy: All joking aside, I have fixed several cars braking problems by increasing their corner speed. Suddenly what were average brakes, are now more than adequate.

You have read all the other suspension threads.....and you know all the experienced users (road and track) recommend Bilsteins as the best (in the non maga dollar) shocks. They will work great with your Kings springs. Add a set of Whitleine stabiliser bars and some alignment bushes (caster and camber) and you will have the best handling / ride comfort compromise around.

The liquid (transmission fluid) to liguid (water in radiator) cooler is the most efficient. Liquid (transmission fluid) to air transmission cooler is not as efficient, so it has to be larger. The Stagea (have a look at the transmission cooler thread in the Stagea section) has both standard, I simply replaced the small standard air to fluid cooler with a much larger and more efficient Davies Crag transmisson cooler. But I kept the fluid to fluid cooler as well, can't have too much transmission cooling when towing. As long as you use a large enough air to fluid transmssion cooler, then you can live without the fluid to fluid cooler. Make sure you put it in the line of airflow from the radiator fan, that will helpo when in traffic, not moving much for long periods.

How is this accomplished?

The crystals have to be earthed, via their steel cases. Otherwise they can sufffer from interference (car radio for example). Read my posts, they have all the details.

Hi Ian, the standard lambda sensor is both too slow and too narrow to tune with. It really is only accurate around stoich (14 to 1) which is too lean for a turbo engine on power. Good for idle and cruise closed loop running only.

If you have a fast and wide lambda sensor and display you can do it. Bit tricky to drive and tune at the same time, so I use a logging A/F ratio meter like the LM. Go back an couple of posts and have a look how I do it on the dyno, just replace "dyno" with "road". Be carefull, it is easy to get up to warpspeed when chasing the high load point A/F ratios.

Th GCG ball bearing high flow has a highly modified (machined) compressor cover.

Mine was 13 ohms with the GTR resistor pack in and 3.5 ohns with resistor pack out.

I have a spare set of standard Stagea rears if you want them. They would be OK with the Whiteline GTR fronts.

Hi Roy, I am not a metalurgist, so pardon me if this is excessively simplistic. The Japanese, German and Australian standards for automotive spring steel are basically same for the 2 types, hot wind and cold wind. The hardening and tempering requirements are obviously different, but the end result is very closely aligned. The program I work with utilises the base data from the BHP coil winding standard, so it is very accurate. If the coil spring manufacture has adhered to either of the 3 standards, then the end result is very predicatable. Garbage in, garbage out obviously applies. The simulation program is used by OE spring manufactures for HSV, Holden and Mitsubishi, Ford have their own in house program as far as I know. But I have checked hundreds of Ford springs and the simulation is still accurate. Obviously it does far more than work out the spring rate, but I am only using that part for this thread. PS; 335 lbs per inch:confused: AAAhh, you have to subtract the wire OD twice from the coil OD to get the coil ID. Yes?

You might wanna check that coil OD, 96/98mm top and bottom is not normal. But if it is right, they are 465 lbs/inch (8.3kg/mm). The more common is 75 mm ID (ie; 101 mm OD), that gives 400 lbs /inch (7.2 kg/mm). Too harsh for me, hope it isn't a rear spring. Well, I could have guessed they would be some Japanese brand.

Sorry if this comes across a bit harsh, but it has been a long night fixing gearboxes....... Have you done a leak down test? Both wet and dry? What were the results? That will tell you in about 20 minutes whether you have an internal engine problem. STOP GUESSING and confirm all is well. Nissan put the external oil return on RB25's for a reason, the cam covers fill up with oil at sustained high rpm's. The VVT system on RB25's put extra oil flow into the cam covers, that how the VVT operates, oil pressure controlled by a solenoid. The extra oil has to be returned to the sump via the standard fitting. PUT IT BACK ON!!!!! I would NEVER plumb into the turbo oil return line. Too risky, any back pressure can slow the oil flow from the turbo. Use a separate return path, follow Nissan's lead, how many oil returns are there from the 2 turbos on a GTR? THAT WOULD BE TWO! And on the RB25, how many fitings are there for the turbo and the oil return. THAT WOULD BE TWO! I figure if Nissan think they need separate oil return for everything, why would I think I only need one for both turbo and oil return. USE SEPARATE OIL RETURNS to the sump. Lastly, oil catch can. YOU NEED ONE, if you are not going to plumb the cam cover oil breathers back into the inlet. You can't have open fittings, you will get oil everywhere, YES. even if the engine is in perfect condition. DO IT NOW!!! I guarantee you, if the leak down test is OK, and you refit the external oil return, use separate fittings for the returns to the sump and properly fit a catch can, IT WILL BE PERFCET. So get on with it, spend less time typing and more time fixing. Hope that helps PS; I did say it might be a bit harsh. :innocent:

Hi Burns, I have found the standard spring rates to be a pretty good compromise between ride comfort, load carrying and handling. With the multiple circlips on the Bilsteins I have found a good height. I could go lower, but I have loads to carry and race cars to tow. The stabiliser bars control the roll perfectly and the Bisteins have added the necessary bump and rebound valving so that it no longer feels floaty. I could design a rear spring rate pretty easily and have a set made, but the standard Stagea spring rate is already pretty high. So I don't think there is that much to be gained. Certainly there would be very little, if any, handling gain on the roads we have to drive on. Comments on the settings; Caster is good, more caster is better, wind on as much as you can get. Toe settings are fine, that's what I have used on ours. I think the front camber may be a bit high at 2 degrees negative, you will find with the stabiliser bars that it won't roll anywhere near as much and there is not the need for that much camber. Around 1 degree works great on ours, with good tyre wear. The 1 degree negative on the rear, may be OK, it depends on whether you carry loads or passengers regularly. They do camber up pretty quickly when you load them up, I have found 0.5 degree to be a good mid point, good for when there is just one person and OK for when it is loaded with 4 guys and their gear. As for prices, I do get 15% discount from Whiteline, so let me know (via PM) if you want me to get anything for you. PS; we are down at Sandown, racing on July 22/23/24. I can bring stuff down with me if you want.

Sylvias are MacPherson strut front end and therefore have movement and leverage ratios that lower the effective spring rate at the tyre. The Skyline front end, being double wishbone, doesn't. So you can't compare front spring rates. Everyone has their own likes and dislikes, how much harshness they can tolerate. And that's a perfectly good thing, freedom of choice. But tell your mate to go and talk to the Dunlop tyre engineer and ask him what spring rate (at the tyre) the DZ02G likes. Ultimately what the tyre likes is the fastest.

1. The exhaust camshaft timing is at 4 degrees retarded, it feels OK but no dyno time yet. Initially I reset the ignition timing to the standard (15 degrees BTDC), but it felt a little flat around 3,000 to 3,500 rpm. So I advanced it to 20 BTDC, and it feels pretty good. Dyno will tell. 2. I checked everything, water pump, alternator bearings, power steering pump bearings, idler, tensioner and even the a/c compressor bearings. Everything was PERFECT, so why the hell would I change anything? And risk infant mortality? Nope, stick with the tested and proven product.

Hi Col, I already did this in the Stagea thread, please feel free to steal anything you need.

There is ZERO technical reason, its all about demand, development cost and money. Apexi thought there was not enough demand for R32GTST Power FC's, well not enough for Apexi's long production runs. Consequently they didn't develop the software or make them. Enough people wanted them (for a small run) so Apexi got AP Engineering to make them (they are good at small run, special stuff) but as a result the price was double that of an R32GTR Power FC.

Front 8kg/mm = 450 lbs/inch Standard is 165 lbs /inch Whiteline lowered is 225 lbs/inch (4kg/mm) Kings lowered is 250 lbs/inch How do you think it is going to ride with a 275% increase in spring rate? :idea: Rear 7kg/mm = 390 lbs/inch Standard is 125 lbs /inch Whiteline lowered is 165 lbs/inch (3kg/mm) Kings lowered is 185 lbs/inch How much traction do you think it is going to have with a 290% increase in rear spring rate? :idea: In the race cars on R type tyres we NEVER run over 250 lbs/inch rear spring rate, 390lbs/inch is UNTHINKABLE. There is plenty written on this subject, do a search if you want more detail. PS; low is slow.

Anyone else?