Sydneykid

The Group A turbos I have seen have all been plain bearing with 360 degree thrusts. Although I can't think of any reason why you couldn't use the Group A compressor and turbine with a ball bearing core. The R34GTR N1 turbos are ball bearing as are 2530's.

The R32GTST is quite different because the Power FC was made by AP Engineering, not Apexi themselves. It is a bit of a hybrid Power FC with some features found on the GTR Power FC's. Plus the R32GTST has a map sensor standard, with input to the Power FC (R33GTST's don't). So when you get the Boost Control Kit it will come with a map sensor that you don't have to use. The boost control solenoid is simply wired into the outputs of the Power FC. When you have it, PM me and I will give you the pin outs.

Nope, as soon as you plug the lambda sensor back in it will go closed loop (as normal) and that will overide what you have programmed. Other than wasting your time, no. I checked the calibration and it didn't need adjusting. I would still check yours, there are always minor variations in components. Any dyno shop should be able to do it, there is nothing unusual or tricky about how the DFA functions. It has more load points than an SAFC, other than that the functionality is the same. PM me if you want a personal recommendation.

Yes and no, as the airflow increases due to mods it moves the standard ECU to other points on the fuel maps. Nissan strategy has always been to provide rich (safe) running. So you most definitely can get rich running (down as low as 9's)without the ignition timing being retarded, other than it would normally be retarded for that extra airflow anyway. Conversely I have never seen retard without rich, unles the fuel pump or injectors have issues at that flow rate.

What the blind_elk said, I would add that adjustable stabiliser bars will enable you to change the balance for circuit, motorkhana and drift. The best bang for buck suspension upgrade by far, ~$450 if you do the fitting yourself (there is a how to guide on the forum). The next best is wheel alignment settings, caster and camber as you have mentioned.

Most people would have different settings for the road and the track. I have different settings for different tracks, as well as different conditions. There is no one RIGHT setting, that's why they are adjustable.

The ECU KNOWS the A/F ratios are rich because it made them rich. The ECU knows that the injector openning should be 40% at 4,000 rpm with a throttle opening of 85%. But the AFM voltage is at 5 volts, so it goes for 70% injector opening when 55% would have been enough. Hence it KNOWS the A/F ratios are too rich. Why do the coils have burn marks? Been washing the engine down and driving it without drying out the spark plug wells? That's the most common cause, puddles of water and electricity don't go very well together. I use BCPR6ES-8 NGK copper spark plugs.

I have a purple car too, sorry no, you can't borrow it:cheers:

Yep, test it out. Every car is different, some feel like they are going to curl up and die, others just pause for breath. Coils, coils, coils, I am sick and tired of hearing about coils. I have NEVER EVER had a problem with an RB coil. Copper spark plugs and the right gap will be fine, as long as the tuning is suitable. If it's too rich causing the missfire, then fix the problem (richness) don't stick a bandaid on it (bigger coils).

Simple, find out from the other MR2 owners what the ideal ride height is for your model eg; R32GTR is 355 mm centre of wheel to guard, front and rear. Then set yours to that ride height. Drive around your normal test roads and adjust the shock absorber damping to your taste.

Idle and constant throttle cruise for closed loop. On the dyno it's easy to pick, you change the DFA settings and the A/F ratio readings don't change. Ooops must be in closed loop, toooooo simple. Yes, I wanted 12 but could only get to 11. On the 4wd dyno it is like riding a bucking bronco, it sure as hell feels savage. I have NEVER EVER seen fuel cut on a Skyline, it would run lean and punch holes in pistons, Nissan aren't that stupid. They just richen it up and retard the timing, that drops the rpm, road speed and hence the load and so the turbo drops boost. There is less airflow, so no more need for R&R. The ECI reverts back to the normal maps and the power climbs again, then there is too much airflow and awaaaaaaaay we go again. You see it on so many R25DET dyn graphs, its either a drop or hold in power for a few hundred rpm, then increasing. Or it's a series of swoops in the power output. Hope that clarifies:cheers:

Jaycar IEBC if you can read intructions and solder components onto a ciruit board. I have one on the Stagea and it works fantastic. Alternative, Power FC Boost Control Kit, I have one on the R32GTST and it works very well.

Based on my experiences there aren't any real limitations, I have seen Power FC equiped cars make over 1100 bhp, I have seen Power FC equiped cars do low 8's for the 1/4. Personally I have an R32GTST with a Power FC that has 420+rwkw and it runs better than it did when standard. We also have an R32GTR and an R34GTT and all of them have Power FC's. On the other hand the E-Manage is a piggy back, most Skylines have problems with the ignition tuning, they cook coils, won't run, won't start etc. As a piggy back it has all sorts of compromises and areas of tuning that it can't access, that the Power FC does. As for being cheaper, not when you add up all the extras you need to half way tune a Skyline. There is simply no comparison grandmasterb, don't waste your time, buy a Power FC and get on with it.

What car are these coil overs going into?

Have a look at the existing threads http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=53437 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=74743 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=73058 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=74634 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=52540 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=73705 They should tell you almost everything you need to know.

Sorry Ben, I have no practical experience, the only way to get that would be to drive around with someone strapped under the bonnet with a timing light. I can guess by looking at the Power FC ignition maps from the R34GTT, they are here somewhere in the Datalogit maps....................... OK, in a few spots in the mid range 4 load points is +5 degrees ignition timing, and 6% less fuel, say an AFR change from 11.3 to 12 to 1. So if it started to ping (because of the 5 degrees advanced igntion timing) you would have to back off the A/F ratio correction by say 0.2. That means you would end up at 11.8 to 1 instead of 12 to 1 but with only 3 degrees of ignition advance. Maybe that's enough to stop the pinging. A few load points away it is only 3 degrees and 2.5% injector change for 4 load points. Hence the problem, it's a big circular compromise.

You won't loose any low end, the area that is most affected is the boost build rpm range. That range from ~3,000 rpm to ~5,000 rpm where the A/F ratio versus ignition timing compromise can be an issue. The short answer is I don't really know, every car is different. Some it doesn't seem to affect much, others it's a real pain in the ass. The only observation I can make is that cars with split dumps, hi flow cats and 3.25" (or bigger) exhaust seem to be the best in the compromise stakes.

HandyAndy, someone has been pissing a bowl of shyt in your ear, we have tuned over 20 Skylines (R32's, R33's, R34's, GTR's, GTST's, GTT's) with Power FC's and I have NEVER EVER had any such problem.

The best I can do to answer your question is to relate it to what I am doing. I am fitting a GCG ball bearing hi flow, 3.25" exhaust, hi flow cat (that's an interesting story), split dump/engine pipe combo. It already has the IEBC, DFA, adj exhaust camshaft pulley and R34GTT intercooler. The target is 200 4wkw using safe settings and boost. Basically that same set up made 240 rwkw on an R34GTT except it had a Power FC and a GTR intercooler. Let's look at some numbers; 200 4wkw = ~210 rwkw The GTR intercooler was worth ~10 rwkw = 220 rwkw So by not using the Power FC I reckon I have dropped 20 rwkw. Hope that answered your question:cheers:

Nope, it runs quite fine on its own. I only have the Controller plugged in when tuning, the rest of the itme the IEBC and the DFA sit quite nicely in the glovebox:cheers:

This thread is so much more fun when there is a twist in the posts. Oh, I don't think the Stagea would have too much trouble keeping up around the twisty bits and if it was raining on this holiday (it always rains on my holidays) then he wouldn't see which way the Stagea went. The truth is, most of my drive away holidays are spent at race tracks anyway. Occasionally we get to winery or twenty, then the waggon is well used to its maximium capacity. Speaking of which, Vuster how do you survive with that glovebox sized boot?

Maybe I am being over sensitive, but I never called your car a lemon I do the same total K's with 2 cars, so they only get serviced the same as 1 car would doing the same K's ie; 2 cars don't get serviced twice as often. Plus it is rather handy to have another car when one is being serviced. Yes you did, I have read every post in this thread, shall I quote you? Maybe you need to reread some of your posts, like this one; Negative!!!! You should see me when I get negative. Personally, I would have spent $20K on the S15 to fix the poor choices someone obviously made in its build up phase and $23K on an S11 Stagea. Then I would have had 2 cars fit for purpose, not one big fat compromise. Plus the balance of $10K to spend having even more fun. I reckon that would be a better use of my $53K.

I AM trying to help him, by showing him the error of his ways. Sometimes to start thinking outside the square you have to push/challenge a bit. Philip Island, yes .........well......qualified 5th, DNF first race, last to 3rd second race (fastest lap) and 3rd to first last race (fastest lap). The boys only had to change the engine once, the #1 engine died in qualifying. So it went pretty well, still leading the Vic State Championship after 3 rounds. Oran Park (3rd) round of the NSW State Championship this weekend. Extra car in the team this weekend, so it might be a busy one. Dyno time tonight for 2 cars, might get some sleep after that.

Hang on, you spent $53K on one vehicle and I spent way less than that on 2. One is faster everywhere and the other is better at everything else than your choice. It doesn't matter that I do the maintenance myself, I have more than enough change from $53K to get both cars serviced for many years. There is even enough change to rent another garage if need be. What you are trying to support is the point of view that the "one car" you have is better than the "one car" someone else has. My view is that you spent "$53K" and I spent "way less" and have a demonstrably better result. That's purpose of my responses, to point out that there is more than one way to skin the cat. That and have a bit of fun at the same time.

No chance, the search button is your friend:cheers: