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Sydneykid

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Everything posted by Sydneykid

  1. 30 psi cold and 35 psi hot.
  2. HICAS is not your friend, but I would be getting the wheel alignment checked first. It sounds like you may have other issues that are exacerbating the problem:cheers:
  3. I suspect the limit of the Sards will be around 800 bhp. But that is dependant on how much boost you run, as that will determine the maximum fuel pressure and hence the injector flow rate. The 044 should supply that, provided you have the necessary wiring and relay to handle the current and the voltage is stable ~13.8 volts. The 800 bhp would be around 720 rwhp in a 2wd application and 690 4whp. Hope that answered your question:cheers:
  4. You don't have too much power, you have too little handling. And as Roy posted there is far more to it than tyres. Pop over to the Suspension thread for more details:cheers:
  5. Why? I use the rear stage (no HICAS) to run power steering fluid through the cooler.
  6. The old RB20DET in the R32GTST made 225 rwkw (302 rwhp) with a GCG ball bearing hi flow at 1.3 bar. It had over 1 bar at 3,250 rpm so it wasn't laggy. The only difference to what you have listed may be that it had a split dump and no cat (they are not on your list).
  7. I really don't think price is the issue here. A replacement cat (US certified) for a Toyota Supra costs under $US100 ($A130), that's with the gaskets. It's not a hi flow but a straight replacement for the standard cat. However it most certainly has all of the necessary catalysts in it.
  8. Oooops missed this, I was so involved in reading about Marc's new S2. I did say "lean on it" not "floor it". You know......just a little extra throttle to hold speed going up the hill, not enough for it to kick down, but enough for it to make boost. The torque converter stays locked up, just 0.7 bar of boost and the turbo whines away.
  9. Most people know that I very rarely accept anything at face value, I like to test out the voracity of the information provided. So lets look at what a cat is, what it does and how it does it, courtesy of one of my favourite website http://auto.howstuffworks.com; How Catalytic Converters Reduce Pollution Most modern cars are equipped with three-way catalytic converters. "Three-way" refers to the three regulated emissions it helps to reduce -- carbon monoxide, VOCs and NOx molecules. The converter uses two different types of catalysts, a reduction catalyst and an oxidation catalyst. Both types consist of a ceramic structure coated with a metal catalyst, usually platinum, rhodium and/or palladium. The idea is to create a structure that exposes the maximum surface area of catalyst to the exhaust stream, while also minimizing the amount of catalyst required (they are very expensive). A three-way catalytic converter: Note the two separate catalysts. There are two main types of structures used in catalytic converters -- honeycomb and ceramic beads. Most cars today use a honeycomb structure. Ceramic honeycomb catalyst structure The Reduction Catalyst The reduction catalyst is the first stage of the catalytic converter. It uses platinum and rhodium to help reduce the NOx emissions. When an NO or NO2 molecule contacts the catalyst, the catalyst rips the nitrogen atom out of the molecule and holds on to it, freeing the oxygen in the form of O2. The nitrogen atoms bond with other nitrogen atoms that are also stuck to the catalyst, forming N2. For example: 2NO => N2 + O2 or 2NO2 => N2 + 2O2 The Oxidization Catalyst The oxidation catalyst is the second stage of the catalytic converter. It reduces the unburned hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide by burning (oxidizing) them over a platinum and palladium catalyst. This catalyst aids the reaction of the CO and hydrocarbons with the remaining oxygen in the exhaust gas. For example: 2CO + O2 => 2CO2 But where did this oxygen come from? The Control System The third stage is a control system that monitors the exhaust stream, and uses this information to control the fuel injection system. There is an oxygen sensor mounted upstream of the catalytic converter, meaning it is closer to the engine than the converter is. This sensor tells the engine computer how much oxygen is in the exhaust. The engine computer can increase or decrease the amount of oxygen in the exhaust by adjusting the air-to-fuel ratio. This control scheme allows the engine computer to make sure that the engine is running at close to the stoichiometric point, and also to make sure that there is enough oxygen in the exhaust to allow the oxidization catalyst to burn the unburned hydrocarbons and CO. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Having covered the theory, I now need to understand what this means; I think it says that Magic cats don't have any platinum, rhodium and/or palladium coating on the ceramic honeycomb , or have I missed something?:confused:
  10. Too quick Lucien, I had to stop posting while I torqued down a cylinder head. That done, I have now completed the post above. But there is more................
  11. Hi Michael, I am not dissagreeing with what you are claiming, however I have 2 issues; 1. We were doing some testing on cats for circuit racing as there was some talk of the regs being introduced here, same as they are in some catagories in Europe. We were sent a number of cats that are used overseas, maga buck costs, over $2K in some cases and Magic sent us one of theirs. In the bang for buck stakes it was easily the best. I tried in on a couple of cars, up to 300 rwkw and it showed very little, if any, difference to a straight through 3" pipe. I should point out that no part of our testing was for emissions, we rely on the manufacturer for that as the required testing is both extensive and expensive. 2. If I have interpreted correctly what you have written, Magic are selling a cylinder with metal mesh in it as cat, but it is in fact not a catalytic converter. ie; it does not perform its primary task of reducing emissions. If that is in fact the case, then they are engaging in deceptive trade practises. If I was a competitor of Magic I would be reporting this to the Trade Practices Commission. The TPC is part of the Attorney General's Department, contact details; Attorney-General's Department Central Office Robert Garran Offices National Circuit BARTON ACT 2600 Tel: (02) 6250 6666 If I could substantiate the claims, then the produict would most likely be ordered for withdrawal from sale immediatley and any money paid by customers for the product would be refunded. This is not unprecedentated in Australia, the 1350 kg alloy trolley jacks being a recent example (they only held 850 kgs). If I have a receipt from Magic for a "catalytic converter" then there is no way I can be guilty of anything. EPA testing or not, I can't be expected to test something with equipment that I don't have, using knoweldge that I don't posess. There is not a court in the land that would not agree. I am sure we have not heard the last of this:cheers:
  12. It's a simple 3 roller jig, not expensive so plenty of people have them, Performance Metalcraft, GCG, Micks Metalcraft etc. I just paid them a $few to lip the pipes for me.
  13. The best I have see on the dyno from an RB25DET was 524rwkw, it cost a little over $25K for the mods all up including the support systems. That's turbo, exhaust, intercooler, pistons, rods porting, manifolds, wastegate, cams, Power FC, injectos, fuel pumps etc. I recon I could get a bit over 1000 bhp from an RB25DET if I had the budget. Is that enough potential? :Pimp2:
  14. In order for the injector to squirt, it has to have a higher pressure behind it (in fuel) than the pressure in front of it (boost). If I had 20 psi total fuel pressure and 20 psi boost, no fuel would flow. In the previous post I expressed "rail pressure" as the amount of pressure above boost. The reality is the total pressure in the fuel rail itself is fuel pressure plus boost, hence the need for screw on fittings. Hope that clarifies:cheers:
  15. $800 = not so bad if it's alloy or stainless steel $1400 = rediculous
  16. They aren't Konis, Koni uses a continuously adjustable foot valve. Sounds like a number of the generic Jap shocks, many of them have rebound damping changes with 4 click screw driver adjustment:cheers:
  17. If that's a picture of your car with the subs in the boot, that's why the rear is low.
  18. Same springs, same shocks, same tyres, same camber , same caster, same engine power, 3 seconds a lap faster at Eastern Creek.
  19. Hi Steve, are you sure he said rear SOLENOID? There are rear SENSORS. If it is really SOLENOID, it is part of the ABS actuator, as far as I know you can't buy it separately. That means a complete ABS actuator.
  20. Dod yourself a favour and buy some Bilsteins:cheers:
  21. That's because you go round the corners too slow. :matrix:
  22. The single Bosch 044 supplies enough fuel for ~730bhp at 12 volts. But you will have to use a relay and wire it back to the battery/alternator as the standard wiring won't handle the current. So the 044 will see 13.8 volts, which puts it up around 840 bhp. You don't have to run a surge tank for drag work, just make sure there is enough fuel in the tank for each run. So you could mount the 044 in tank. From experience, the Sard 700 cc injectors usually flow around 730 cc's on the flow bench at 38 psi. The Bosch 044 is capable of 73.5 psi, so it depends on how much boost you are running as to how much you can increase the rail pressure. Around 45 psi rail pressure will see the Sards flow around 800 cc's, that leaves 28.5 psi for boost (1.9 bar). The standard fuel rail is as large internally as most aftermarket rails, the only issue is the fittings. I am not a fan of rubber hoses and screw clamps on fuel supply at up to 73.5 psi. A bolt on Nismo fuel pressure regulator ($180 from Nengun) will fix one end, but the other (fuel supply) end of the rail will need to have a proper dash fitting welded on. I strongly suggest using bolt on fittings all the way back to the pump, fuel fires are ugly. Personally I would save some money and use the 044 in tank with the Sard injectors and the standard fuel rail.
  23. If it wasa VSpec intercooler it was worth extra.
  24. Skills........not when it comes to welding, I paid someone for that.
  25. I did it myself for ~$250, that's pipework, silicone joiners and stainless steel clamps:cheers:
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