Sydneykid

I bought mine from the SAU for sale section for reasonable price. They come up pretty regularly, have your money ready and move swiftly.

I felt a disturbance in the Force........... No hang on. A disturbance in the Force I felt That's more Yoda like isn't it? I have never tried 260 degree Poncams with a standard turbo, we have used them with a GCG ball bearing hi flow and a GT30 on R34GTT's. Made good power increases everywhere, particularly in the 4,000 rpm to 6,500 rpm range. Even at the same or lower boost levels (less restriction, more airflow, lower boost). So what's different about the standard turbo? 1. Maybe it's simply out of airflow, that would mean the same/similar power 2. What sort of power are we talking about here? 3. Did the boost drop? 4. Does it drop off at high rpm? 5. What do the A/F ratios look like? Std cams Comparison? Some things to try (maybe you already have) A. More boost? It may move the airflow into the cams' working range. B. Less boost? It may move the airflow into the turbo's working range C. Advance the ignition timing? If I remember rightly we had to advance the timing quite a bit on the Neo with the hi flow. It didn't ping at the same timing as when it had the standard cams. D. It also went a little rich on the A/F ratios when we changed the cams, so we had to lean it off a bit. It was making more airflow (as per the AFM) but at lower RPM, so it needed some tuning at a number of load points. Not as much change as the ignition timing though. Changing cams requires a lot more tuning time than many other mods because it changes the fundamental relationship between the airflow, rpm and combustion cycle. For example, sticking a slightly bigger turbo on or turning up the boost a bit, increase the airflow but they maintains that basic rpm/airflow relationship. Lastly, I always try and avoid jumping straight to installation errors, but it needs to be checked. For example, one tooth retarded inlet camshaft timing will give lousy mid range as the VVT will be operating out of range. The success of the 2 degree retard on the exhaust camshaft timing is interesting, I have found that 0 seems to be the best position in the Neo's. Hopefully Bass there is something in the above that is of use:cheers:

I found the smoke test to be very difficult when the engine has a fan and the leak is small.

Thanks Mik, I was aware of that, that's why I said "all other things being equal". One of the "other things" is the distribution of the mass from the axis. This is not something that is easy to measure. I can easily measure the diameter of the compressor and the turbine. But that may not give the answer as the profile of the blades is considerably different.

I am with the others, I don't see how changing the plenum would suddenly make the turbos the wrong size. My guess is that there is another problem, my best suggestion is to work though everything that you have touched when changing the plenum. Pay particular attention to the hoses under the plenum and the new intercooler pipework. For finding air leaks, I have a spray bottle with dish washing liquid and water in it, I spray all the intercooler pipe work joints. If there is a leak it will blow bubbles.

Hi Keith, we don't do much drag racing, circuit racing is what we are about, however there is something that we found on the R32's that may be relevant. Some time ago we removed the standard fuel tank and replaced it with a much smaller alloy one, this left a big space under the floor. At the same time we damaged the front splitter and had to run one session without it. The driver reported that at high speed it was difficult to control the change of direction. We refitted the standard fuel tank and the splitter was repaired for the next race, no other changes. The driver reported no high speed stability problems. Hope that might be of some use:cheers:

Hi Geoff, I have yet to see any evidence of ceramic in the engine disease on single turbo engines (RB20/25) but there are reports of it happening on twin turbos (RB26). I will be most interested in what you find when you pull yours down. How about the weight of the rotating mass (compressor, shaft and turbine)? Some time ago I weighed the rotating components of a 2540 and compared it to a GT30. From memory 2 sets of 2540 rotating components would weigh around 1.6 times what 1 set of GT30 rotating components would. Hence would it not take 1.6 times the exhaust engergy (all other things being equal) to accelerate the compressor, shaft and turbine?

What you are experiencing does not sound like turbo surging to me, more like missfire due to the spark plugs not liking the extra boost. When was the last time you changed and gapped the plugs?

A common analogy.............. Tomei is like Nissan Poncam is like Skyline 256 is like the model of Skyline. Tomei have other ranges of camshafts than the Poncam range. Poncam in Tomei speak means that the cams work OK with standard valve springs, retainers, collets, valves followers etc. So they are a straight bolt in, remove standard cams insert Poncams. Other Tomei camshaft models don't, they may need upgraded valve springs, offset followers or maybe different valves. Even though they may have similar camshaft timing and/or lift. Hope that helps

The ceramic resister (usually ~5K ohms) is there to suppress the electronic interference from the ignition during sparking. Crackle n the stereo is the most obvious result, although I have seen the ECU and instruments interfered with by the noise generated from using non resistor plugs in a car designed for resistor plugs. From the NGK tech journal "NGK strongly recommends using resistor spark plugs in any vehicle that uses on-board computer systems to monitor or control engine performance. This is because resistor spark plugs reduce electromagnetic interference with on-board electronics. They are also recommended on any vehicle that has other on-board electronic systems such as engine-management computers, two-way radios, GPS systems, depth finders or whenever recommended by the manufacturer. In fact, using a non-resistor plug in certain applications can actually cause the engine to suffer undesirable side effects such as an erratic idle, high-rpm misfire, engine run-on, power drop off at certain rpm levels and abnormal combustion." The botttom line, I would never use non resistor spark plugs in my Skyline:cheers:

They won't worry about what the dash looks like after they are finished, a big hammer and blade will get it out pretty fast.

I got a copy of the de-rego papers sent to me before I paid for the car. They are very important as they prove it's not a stolen car in Japan. Always get every piece of paper and keep copies, FOREVER.

Hi Brad maybe post it up in the Forced Induction Performance section. More people will have a GTR workshop manual than a Stagea one.

My 20 cents worth follows; There are 4 important things to consider when choosing an intercooler; 1. Cooling the inlet airflow (this effects the temperaturee of the inlet air) 2. The effect of the intercooler on the radiator (this effects the water temp of the engine) 3. The efficiency in passing inlet airflow through the intercooler (this is a measure of how much pressure loss there is across the core) 4. It's internal volume (this effects the throttle response of the engine) No one intercooler is superior in all 4 areas, they all are compromises. An example, a 600 X 300 X 100 bar and plate is good in #1 and #3 but bad in #2 and very bad in #4. The standard Stagea S1 (same as R33GTST) intercooler is good in #4 and #2, not so good in #1 and very bad in #3. I have chosen a standard R34GTT intercooler, to keep #2 and #4 at good, improve #3 a lot and improve #1 a little bit. That set of compromises suites my Stagea usage. On the race car we use a 600 X 300 X 100 tube and fin. It is good in #1 and #2, OK in #4 and we have a big enough turbo not to be concerned about #3. My personal favourite all rounder is the standard R33/34 GTR intercooler. Up to 300 rwkw they are very hard to beat, they cool well (#1), they show amost zero resistance at 45 lbs of airflow per minute (enough for ~300rwkw) (#3), they are designed by Nissan (tube and fin) to be good in #2. The internal volume gives good throttle response (#4) at standard power, so it is even better with faster airflow through the core (more power). Hope that was of some help:cheers:

I use BCPR6ES-8 for normal use, maybe BCPR7ES-8 for sustained high speed or track use; B: Indicates 14mm thread diameter in the cylinder head. C: Hex size 5/8" P: Projected insulator type R: Resistor type 1-9: Indicates temperature (1 Hottest - 9 coldest) E: Indicates 19mm thread reach (approx 3/4") S: Standard (copper) 2.6mmø center electrode -8: Gap 0.8mm (0.032") If you can't get -8 then you will have to adjust the gap to 0.8 mm before you fit the plugs.

It's a numbers game............and there is always more than 1 number.... A 600 rwkw at 8,000 rpm 3.1 litre will have the same torque as a 600 rwkw at 8,000 rpm 2.6 litre. Remember horsepower X rpm / 5250 = torque. So the only time you have a 3.1 litre with more torque (and the same horsepower) is if it develops that horsepower at a lower rpm. Similarly it will develop the same torque at lower rpm, and lower launch rpm means less stresses on the engine, the gearbox, the clutch the diff etc. Lower shift rpm = less wear on the gearbox as well. It is average torque over the used rpm range that propels you down the 1/4, so a 10 sec 2.6 litre will need the same amount of torque as a 10 sec 3.1 litre. If you have a 3.1 litre that makes more torque it will be faster, therefore you are no longer comparing two 10 second engines. If I want to do 10 seconds for the 1/4, I serously doubt that there is much difference in cost between an 2.6 and a 3.1 litre, except you won't have to rev the 3.1 litre as much to do the same time. So it will last a lot longer, 20% lower rpm = a lot longer between rebuilds. Plus I can buy a rebuildable RB30 bottom end for $100, try that with an RB26. Based on the above logic, I reckon a 3.1 litre is goping to work out far cheaper.

My 20 cents.... For your purposes I think the Noltec upper arms are an unnnecessary extra expense, the Whiteline adjustable bushes will do fine. For your purposes I think the Noltec adjustable radius rods are an unnnecessary extra expense, the Whiteline adjustable bushes will do fine. Subframe mounts, sometimes called "pineapples", stiffen up the rear sub frame (it is mounted to the chassis on rubber bushes) and remove most of that vauge rear end feeling.

Well done Ben, 10's is damn impressive. Gotta get the exhaust on mine, work keeps getting in the way. And I have the adj exhaust camshaft pulley and new cambelt to go on as well. BTW, what fuel was it? Launch technique, I used to be able to just use the left foot braking while the right foot was planted on the accelerator. But with the extra power from the intercooler it drives though the brakes, and wheelies up the rears like a line locker first. I found by adding the handbrake it stops the rear wheelspin and I can hold about 0.5 bar at launch. Flick the handbrake off with the left hand while sliding the left foot off the brake. As soon as I plant the right foot it jumps to 0.7 bar. It feels to be around 140 to 145 4wkw now, so maybe the extra ~30 4wkw (from the exhaust and the pulley) will mean a change in the launch technique.

Personally I set the belt tension so that I can move it 5mm in and out (ie; 10 mm total movement) using one finger. You should not able to play it like a violin because it is so tight. Measurement is done between the inlet pulley and the tensioner. You should have the same amount of movement from the exhaust camshaft pulley to the idler pulley. When I check the Stagea belt tension I will post up the pictures.

It was an OK install, the exhaust manifold heat shielding fitted OK, with a little mods. You could barely tell that it wasn't standard, the dump was a bit obvious. It was not my kind of turbo installation, too laggy, nothing--nothing---nothing--then hang on, throttle response made driving fast very tricky, the handling was compromised by the lack of throttle control. The useable power band was too small as well. It had 40 rwkw more but it is was slower in most applications. It lasted a month and I ditched it, the GCG ball bearing hi flow was a much better all round package. That's for my taste and driving requirements, some other people loved the big turbo feel.

The Magic 4" cat that I used came from; Magic Peformance 25 Carter Road Brookvale NSW 2100 02 9939 1644

Hi Brad, I am not really an ATTESSA electronics expert, I am barely OK at the mechanicals. But from what I understand the ATTESSA ECU (AECU) uses some signals from the engine ecu (EECU). The logical ones are road speed, engine rpm and throttle position, hence my previous post. The AECU uses two G force sensors, one front to rear for accelleration and braking and one side to side for cornering. My limited understanding is that the AECU takes those G forces readings adds them to the EECU inputs and decides how much front drive is required according to its programmed map. It is not a simplistic wheelspin comparison (like most of the front drive 4wd's) using the ABS sensors. That is why the ATTESSA system was so successful for circuit racing, it was designed for that purpose. I don't know how the Autronic was wired, there are a number of possiblilities; 1. Use an adaptor between the standard wiring harness an the Autonic 2. Use a dedicated Autronic wiring harness and ignore the standard wiring 3. Cut off the standard EECU plug and rewire the standard harness into the Autonic plug 4. A combination of the above If the AECU is indeed missing some inputs it may simply go into "limp home mode" and apply 100% 4wd. Which sounds like what you are experiencing. Although it would appear from the excess pressure (you are seeing) that the hydraulic pump is running flat out, which seems a little extreme. I would be closely checking the AECU wiring first, particularly that to the pump. Next you need to check that the wiring to the AECU still has output from the EECU. These are easy to check with a multimeter, obviously throttle opening is a simple voltage movement when you press the throttle. RPM and Speed sensors are both a pulsed signal. It would be easier if you had an AECU pin out schematic, sorry I don't have one here. Maybe someone else can post it up for you if you don't already have one. Hope that was of some help:cheers:

Previous post on this subject...... In order to increase the caster you simply pull the front wheels forward in the guards. Not enough to rub though. This changes the front steering toe angles and therefore you need to re-align it after fitting and adjusting the caster. If the caster rods you are looking at have spherical joints at the front (not polyurethane or rubber) then you will notice a slight increase in NVH as there is no dampening. Sphericals also wear rapidly on Australian (rough) roads, and they then knock noticeably. Since they don't have as much "play" as a polyurethane bush they do provide more constant caster settings (less flex) but that comes at the price as above ie; as usual, you don't get something for nothing. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- As you can tell, I am not a fan of sphericals in a road car, they wear out very fast in that environment, knock like a bustard and cost as much as a new arm to replace. Plus they add quite a bit to the NVH (noise, vibration & harshness) even when new. Consequently I would always recommend an adjustable polyurethane bush.

I would overlay the Stagea ECU pinouts with the GTR ECU pin outs, I think you will find one of the sensors that the ATTESSA uses has a different location on the Stagea loom. These are the R32/33 GTR pin outs I would be checking; Pin 7 - tacho Pin 38 - throttle opening Pin 48 - throttle sensor power supply Pin 53 - vehicle speed sensor Pin 56 - throttle sensor output

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