Sydneykid

My guess.......More airflow to make more power = more boost, as the turbine is going to be a restriction at the higher airflow. This usually means closer to compressor surge, as the compressor can deliver more flow than the turbine can receive. Usually Trust add larger turbines for more power, this avoids the compressor surge issue. Should be an interesting experiment none the less.

Ah, it's not the height of the turbo that is the only problem, it is mounted further forward than usual as well. This is where the bonnet droops down towards the front. Personally I would change the angle of the turbo mount flange on the exhaust manifold. Angle the turbo downwards at the front and rotate it 15 degrees clockwise. Not a particualry difficult job for a competant welder. RB30 is 85 mm stroke and RB26 is 73.7mm stroke, so that's 11.3 mm longer stroke which = 5.65mm taller block to accommodate the extra stroke. In addition the RB30 conrods are ~30mm longer. Hence the usually accepted number is ~35mm taller.

Firstly let me say that I think that scenario is impossible. There is no way (that I know of) for a smaller turbo at 20 psi to supply 60cfm at the same temperature as a larger turbo does at 14 psi. In addition to turbo rpm differences, there would be some engine rpm differences (ie; the larger turbo is going to need more engine rpm to produce the same airflow). Since "power" (horsepower I assume) is torque X rpm / 5250, the different engine rpm would make a comparison difficult. But let's say it is possible, I believe that the larger turtbo will produce more power because it has less exhaust restriction (via the larger turbine). If this (larger turbine) is the primary reason for the 14 psi versus 20 psi, then the extra power will be substantial.

By gone, do you mean ceramic in the cat? If so, you could have them rebuilt with steel turbines. Otherwise there are always plenty of GTR standard turbos for sale.

Suggestions follow; 1. I think the real question here is why is it pinging? It is not good, so I would always fix it. 2. Nope 3. Ist gear, being a low ratio, doesn't develop a lot of load on the engine. Less load = lower exhaust volume and that = less turbo rpm and that = less boost. The IEBC will make sure the wastegate is absolutely closed, so it will develop the highest boost your engine and turbo will produce.

www.noltec.com.au I have had a closer look at your photo, the turbo doesn't look particularly high. Does it only hit on the bonnet when the engine is flexing? Or is it on it when at rest?

You're screwed. If you try to lower the engine 30 mm and then add a 10 mm adaptor for the 4wd, this means the sump is 40 mm lower, the gearbox is 40 mm lower, the front drive shafts are 40 mm lower etc etc. About 5 years ago I built an RB30DET (RB30E/25DE) in an R32GTR and it cleared the standard bonnet easily. By enough to have a rather thick strut brace as well. So there is no basic problem wiht fitting an RB30 into an R32. I believe your ONLY answer is to lower the turbo. It is far less complex and less prone to introducing other problems. As for engine mounts, I suggest an engine brace would be a good idea if you keep ripping LHS mounts. This is not unusual as RB's turn clockwise, consequnetly there are a number of brands of engine braces with shock aborders available . Nismo make rubber hardeness up engne mounts and Noltec have polyurethane mounts. I have a couple of cars with solid mount engines (Super Tourers) and they vibrate horrendously, stuff is always falling off and cracking. Not something I would recommend. Hope that helps:cheers:

Couple of interesting questions there, let's start with pinging. The standard ECU doesn't warn of knock until ~40. I have no idea what 40 means. Is it %, number of occurances in minute, a second, loudness, there is one microphone on some RB's and 2 on others, is 40 on one with 2 microphones twice as bad as 40 on one with one???? To me it doesn't matter, the fact is it is not ZERO, that means SOME knock is OK with Nissan. Keep in mind 40 is a lot of pinging at low to mid rpms, it comes up pretty fast at 7,500 rpm. So I have heard plenty and seen no ECU response. After many years of tuning high performance engines, I can hear one ping and identify it. So I am not a subscriber to the line "that once you hear it pinging it is too late". I tune my own engines by advancing the ignition timing until it pings, then retard it a little. We have a pair of Snap On brand headphones/amp/mike in the dyno room which can hear even the lightest ping. I spent a long time tuning my boost curve, maybe 3 hours all up, spread over a couple of weeks. It was really hard when I tried it on my own, watch boost gauge, Controller and the road, all at the same time while doing warp speed. You need to have high injectors loads to confirm the settings, particularly if you do what I did and try to hold the boost stable all the way to the rev limit. This requires carefull/progressive closing of the wastegate (reducing solenoid duty cycle). It was much faster on the second car I did, because I had the owner driving it and I knew what to look for. Plus I found a nice long hill that gives enough load without doing warp speed. I had a really good boost curve and dynamite boost build in a bit under 10 minutes. Best suggestion I can give is to have a good play with the Controller before you move and get someone else to drive or point a video camera at the boost gauge and the controller. That way you can plug in most of the load points by watching the video. Hope that helps:cheers:

Coil packs, everything is blamed on the poor old coil packs. I have NEVER EVER replaced a coil pack on a R32/33/34 Skyline. Old plugs, excessively gapped are 75% of the problems the other 25% is ECU R&R. My suggestion, as always, is put some new copper NGK plugs in it and gap them to 0.8mm. If that doesn't solve the problem then chances are you have reached ECU R&R. I hit it on the Stagea at 7.5 psi, their ECU is very smart and maybe has tighter parameters than GTST's. I have seen similar on an R33 S2 Auto sedan so maybe it is the auto ECU that is programmmed to intervene earlier with R&R. If that is the case then it's time for some tuning.

What!!!!!!!!!!!! They won't fit a Stagea? Damn

Welcome to the ever increasing world of Stagea owners.

Yeh, but how much is " tiny bit of throttle"? I am going to waste a bucket load of fuel if, every time I move the pedal ~1mm, it boosts up. I reckon ~5mm is good, that gives me ~4 mm to adjust speed, without surging away. After all I have ~50mm left to demonstate effortless acceleration.

What difference does it make? I set the IEBC to open the wastegate at the boost I want,. I don't care which piece of air I use to open the wastegate, it's all air. I juts want short hoses so the response is fast, not dampened by a couple of metres of hose. PS; faster response = less time for boost spikes

The R33 has a solenoid the R32 doesn't:cheers:

I believe a 2530 on an RB20 would be an OK upgrade. But on an RB25 I have found a small problem, it boosts up at cruise (100 kph) as soon as I squeeze the throttle. This is a bit annoying when driving along any freeway with hills, I squeeze a little bit to get up the hill and it boosts up and accelerates too much. I back off so as not to go over 110 kph, then I slow down too much. It is hard to keep at a constant speed and it definitely uses more gas. The GCG ball bearing hi flow doesn't do that, you need to give it a bit more on the throttle to boost up the hills, I don't have to flatten it or change down, just an extra few mm of pedal travel. It is so much easier to keep at the set speed and it uses less gas as a result. Since we race interstate 9 times a year, this is important for my usage patterns. Maybe not so for others.

Ditto, keep the hoses short, air compresses and you get more dampening the longer the hose is. That means slower response.

We have picked up quite a bit of power with Optimax and Ultimate now being more readily available and also safe to tune to. Plus we are tuning tighter around the A/F ratios and we know we can rely on the knock sensors, so the ignition timing optimisation is more confident. We are using faster/more accurate lambda sensors so we have reduced the allowances. As for the cars themselves, well I will pick up on one point, heat shielding and ambient air feeds. We would hardly ever see a car with a decent heat shield and air feed, open pods sucking in hot air were the common sight. Not so much now, but still too much for my taste. Plus I reckon I have picked up 10 rwkw from reading the forums (this one in particular) and implementing the good ideas of others. Don't underestimate the power of pooling knowledge.

I have seen 2, one had the belt so tight it's a wonder it didn't run the front camshaft bearings. It also had loose pulley bolts. So the pulleys were floppy around. Any wonder it wore the teeth. The second one I was called in to have a look at. It had no top cover and they had reused the old belt on the new pulleys. The bottom cover had so much dirt in it, when they took it off, I could have grown roses. I couldn't blame the pulleys in either case.

Both turbos fail at exactly the same time....."I don't think so Tim". My guess is there is a vacuum or intercooler hose off somewhere. Try the BOV pipework, it's a common GTR problem.

Next step, mark the CAS so I can put it back in the standard position; I always mark 2 of the 3 bolt positions, just in case 1 gets rubbed off. Now check the standard ignition timing with the timing light. Connect the timing light sensor around the black with yellow stripe wire (nice loop Nissan); Confirm that the ignition timing is set at the usual (factory) 15 degrees; Trick photography huh? Next post we will start removing the parts that are in the way cheers

Low 12's:cheers: PS; the turbo contributes about 10% (price and power) of the upgrades that you will need. You won't have much change out of $15K, plus the cost of the Stagea in the first place.

Ahhhh............no! It looks like ~14mm wire in those coils (standard is 12mm). Something around 400 lbs per inch, that's around a 230% increase over standard. A guide is the usual upgrade for 25 mm lowering is 30%.