Sydneykid

You have to use one cable tie over the front to hold the others in place. It took me quite a while to work it out, but we were at BATHURST and I wasn't missing out on a run down Conrod.

From the Whiteline catalogue; Skyline 90-93 R32 GTS GTS-4 GTR F Strut tower brace - alloy adj KSB505 1 1 Q F Caster adj - Radius rod bush KCA331 1 2 +/- 0.75 deg - GTS F Caster adj - Radius rod bush KCA332 1 2 +/- 0.75 deg - GTS-4 & GTR F Camber adj kit - uppr c/arm KCA336 1 4 +/- 0.5 deg R Strut tower brace - alloy adj KSB513 1 1 R Camber adj kit - uppr c/arm KCA347 1 4 +/- 0.75 deg. 2 kits allows +/- 1.5 deg R Control arm upper bush kit W0579 1 4 H/duty poly-suit inner and outer R Radius arm bush kit W0579 1 4 H/duty poly-suit inner and outer R Sub-frame align & lock kit KCA349 1 6 allows diff angle change & subframe lock www.whiteline.com.au

Yep, if you use enough of them and they are big enough. Plus you need to be able to lie upside down with your feet on the driver seat headrest and your head on the brake pedal for half an hour while you do it. All without throwing up. :wassup:

Yep, legend in my own lunch time :headspin: You get inner and outer upper control arm bushes for the front You get Inner upper for the rea rif you need one set, the outers don't usually wear as much as the inners. You get outers if you need two sets (too much negative). You get caster bushes bushes for the front of the radius rods, the rear of the rods don't have bushes, they bolt on to the lower control arm. I got pineappples (rear sub frame bushes) with mine.

We have had the same thing happen to the R32GTST race car and it has an OS Giken twin plate in it as well:cheers:

No apology required, but you only "THINK" it was worthwhile. I think it looks very nice, not ricey at all. Does that mean you are not sure whether it works or not?

I have never seen two camber kits used on the front. The car would be so low its sump would be in China. Handling Pack is a good bang for buck choice. The material is polyurethane, Nolathane is a brand name. Stabiliser bars for track use.........I suggest adjustable bars with 27 mm front and 24 mm rear on 2wd (GTST & GTT) and 24 mm front and 24 mm rear on 4wd (GTR & Stagea). We sometimes use 22mm on the rear when it is raining or the track is very slippery/dirty. If you have rediculously high "Japanese" rear spring rates, then the 22mm adjustable would be a safer choice. Hope that helps:cheers:

If your turbo is running at lower than its maximum efficiency on the "low boost map" and at its maximum efficiency on the "high boost map", then there are certainly arguments that say your are loosing economy. Obviously, if you drive around using zero boost, then "high" or "low" map makes no difference. At idle and cruise it the ECU is closed loop with a target A/F ratio, so "high" or "low" map would make no difference there either. I reckon, tuning the A/F ratios (for open loop) will make more difference than "high" or "low" boost settings at the same speed. I would much rather have my turbo running at its maximum efficiency when I use the throttle, which is after all the most effective fuel economy device. Interesting isn't it?

Hi Adrian, I don't, they are a rough estimate as best. But since we didn't have any dyno numbers I had to put some reality into the discussion. :kick:

Centreline (Chris) or Traction Tyres (Andrew) would be a better choice.

OK, I have a thought....why? I have never used the low map on mine, even in the rain the high map is fine. Maybe with another 60 rwkw, it might be, but I am not even sure of that.

Quick run though the horsepower calculator says 1,020 rwhp for 176 mph and 1,000 rwhp for 7.787 secs. Standard internals........"I don't think so, Tim"

I wired the power for the IEBC and the DFA to the ECU wiring, both active and earth. So there is one nice neat cable set going from the IEBC and the DFA in the glove box to the ECU, with no separate wires. That way they turn on and off with the ECU. They certainly don't draw anywhere near enough current for this to be a problem.

I have had mine done for a couple of months, not from Karasel though. I tried for a long time to find someone who would do one for 1500 kgs, but no luck. The best I could do was one rated at 1200 kgs, I will keep a close eye on out for fatigue, cracks, retainer wear etc. I am not happy with the service or the price I got, so I am not going to recommend them. They quoted me $550 and then charged $650 when I got there to pick it up. I told them it had to be suitable for use with stabiliser bars, and then told me when I got there to pick it up that it wasn't. They promised to reinforce the goose neck if I took it back another day and then wouldn't do it when we took it back 2 days later. The bar itself is a nice fit, looks reasonably well made, OK welding, totally concealed, you can't see it when there is no goose neck on it, the wiring is good and works perfectly, the cable & plug sit inside the spare wheel well when not in use. So it's not ALL bad.

Leaving the cam belt cover off lets dust and dirt in, wears the belt and cam gears very fast. I have even seen a small rock get caught in between the belt and the pulley, ripped the belt to pieces. And many valves hit many pistons. The Stagea needed a cambelt service, so I figured I might as well stick an adjustable exhaust camshaft pulley on there while I was doing that. I ordered a Tomei pulley from Nengun, but apparently they don't make them any more. So I opted for a HKS one made of the new material. It weighs 350 grams (standard camshaft pulley is 550 grams) which is quite a bit lighter than the Jun ones I have that are going on the new RB31DET. I haven't done a propper hardness test on the teeth on HKS pulleys, but the scratch test comes up pretty good. I am not concerned with 3 bolts, I always use Locktite on them anyway.

I am not a fan of sphericals in a road car, they wear out very fast in that environment, knock like a bustard and cost as much as a new arm to replace. Plus they add quite a bit to the NVH (noise, vibration & harshness). If it is trully high, then it must have badly worn bushes in both sides and both front and rear to have that much camber. That is unlikely, because they are so even, generally the LHS bushes wear much faster than the RHS. It will be interesting to see what you find when you get into it.

Suggestions follow; 1. Nope, not in my experience 2. Yep, that's what I would expect, the higher gear means more load on the engine and therefore more exhaust gas flow. Hence more boost. 3. Nope, input point 19 corresponds with a certain injector duration. I know where you are going, but don't worry about it. Because you have the wastegate closed, you are getting more boost at the IEBC input point than you would have if you had limited the boost. So the injector duration is higher than it would be if you had limited the boost, because the airflow is higher. It's a closed loop (well almost), start limiting the boost (by opening the wategate) and you won't have a problem, because the injector duration will change. This will mean a different input point on the IEBC, which you have set at a different wastegate opening. As I said, it's a circle, by not limiting the maximum boost you have broken the circle. I have read that again and it makes sense to me, I hope it makes sense to you.

How many passes are you anticpiating getting out of the gearbox?

It is pretty simple............ There are 2 settings, Boost (that controls the amount of boost) and Duty (that sets the solenoid duty, controls the boost climb rate). There are 4 options for boost level, I have mine set as follows; 0.70/48 0.80/54 0.90/60 1.00/66 So 0.7 bar has a fast climb rate and 1 bar has a slower climb rate. Hope that is of some help:cheers: PS, there are instructions in the Commander manual.

I have used the Autospeed design boost controller (using Norgren valves) on quite a few cars and I have never EVER had a boost spike problem. We run either Datalogit or Motec dash logging on the race cars, so I would have logged it if it had occured. I do mount the 2 valves inside the heat shielding as they like to have a stable temperature. One valve gives good boost control and the other some adjustment of the boost climb rates by limiting the lowest level of boost pressure the wastegate actuator sees. Up to a pre set point (boost pressure), this controls the premature opening of the wastegate. I have found the Jaycar IEBC to be superior in achieving stable boost, but most of all it enables a totally adjustable rate of boost climb. This is only made possible because the IEBC has the boost solenoid in series with the wastegate actuator. All other EBC's have the solenoid plumbed in parrallel with the wastegate actuator. This means the wastegate actuator always sees some boost pressure and so the solenoid is not in 100% control of the rate of boost climb ie; you get some premature opening of the wastegate. If you can read instructions and solder components onto a circuit board then the IEBC is the best $80 you will ever spend. There is more info on my experiences (and a few other peoples) with the IEBC and DFA in the Stagea forum.

You really need to tune to the higher load points, I have a long hill that I use. If I try and tune it on the flat, I am doing warp speed before I get to the injector durations that correspond with the higher load points. I few things I noticed; 1. The IEBC uses injector duty as its reference, so you get different boost levels depending on throttle position. It doesn't produce the same boost at 70% throttle at 4,000 rpm as it does at 100% throttle at 4,000 rpm. This is a big advantage as it makes the engine more responsive to throttle inputs. 2. Since the IEBC uses injector duty as its reference, you get different boost levels depending on load, rpm is somewhat irrelevant. That means 2nd gear at 3,000 rpm is not going to have the same boost climb rate as 3,000 rpm in 4th gear. This is normal turbo and exhaust gas velocity. Not a lot to do with the IEBC, although by keeping the wastegate fully closed, it maximises the boost under all circumstances. Hence you will get a difference in the boost climb in 2nd ie; it won't be as fast at 4th. 3. Because of the above, I find that I don't have to change down when accelerating in top gear as much as I would with other styles of boost controller. I get good (fast) boost climb in top at 80kph by just squeezing the throttle. So it feels like I have a differeent boost curve programmed into the IEBC, but I don't. It's the turbo characteristics driven by the extra exhaust gas flow in the higher gears (more load). 4. I spent a bit of time tuning the boost curve to suite my personal taste. I went for a maximum boost target (0.7 bar in my case) and then tuned the boost climb to be as fast as I could get it. I was limited (in how fast I had the boost rise) by the Stagea ECU, which picked up rapid changes in airflow and went R&R. Most of the time was spent on the transition load points, where I had to realy smooth the wastegate openings. The first job is to set up the IEBC so that you never exceeed your maximum boost target. I found a video camera pointed at the Controller and the boost gauge was a big help, as I could play it back in slow motion and pick any areas of too high boost. Once you have that covered, then it's smoothing time. It takes a little longer to set up than other EBC's, but it is worth it for the extra response and the achievement of the highest possible boost.

Around 1 degreee negative camber on the front is my suggestion for a road car. The Whiteline camber adjustable bushes will give you that. Around 0.5 degree negative camber on the rear is my suggestion for a road car. Two sets (inner upper and inner outer) of Whiteline camber adjustable bushes will give you that. While you are doing that, I STRONGLY recommend a set of caster bushes as well, they need more caster badly. The bottom line is, if you can't achieve those settings with the Whiteline bushes, then the car is too low. It is below the appropriate setting for good handling let alone acceptable ride. Check the centre of wheel to guard measurements, if they are below 350 mm, then its time to think about raising it. Hope that helps:cheers:

OK I'm confused, they are 17" 5 X 114 Volk CV PRO's. They are currently on an R32GTST. But what width are they? What offset? Are all 4 the same width or are the rears wider? What colour are they? What size tyres do they have on them?