Sydneykid

Hi guys, it is not impossible that is is a bad component, but (based on my experience) it is unlikely. Burnt resistors are a sign of excessive load (going through them), so I would work my way through the circuit diagram and check the components on either side of the resistor. Let's give it a go using the circuit diagram on page 141 of Performance Electronics for Cars; It's a 10ohm resistor that sits between diode 2 and and zener diode 2 in the power supply circuit comtrolled by reg 1. So I would be checking the polarity of D2, ZD2 and Reg 1 and the value of the 1000uf, 10uf and 1000nf capacitors. I have marked them with red dots on the cicuit layout below (page 137 of Performance Electronics for Cars);. I know someone has already suggested it, but the problem is in the power supply circuit, so the first thing I make ABSOLUTELY sure of is that the polarity of the power source is correct. Test it at least 3 ways, such as wire colour, multimeter voltage in and multimeter voltage out. The test voltages are shown on the circuit diagram above. Hope that is of some help:cheers:

Simplistic at best, there has NEVER been a problem running the engine (of an auto) with a Power FC, been doing it for years. There has NEVER been a problem for the Power FC to talk to the Auto ECU, been doing it for years. The REAL problem is the Power FC has no input from the gearbox and zero shift logic programming, so it doesn't cut/interrupt the ignition when the auto is changing gears. As a result you get crappy changes, harsh and uncomfortable at low loads and slip at high loads. As well as being rough, it also wears the gearbox excessively. The more power the engine has, the worse the harshness and wear get. Maybe try emailing Zoom and asking them about the REAL problem, I have tried and get no response. Too hard basket maybe.

There is an intermediate, (double sided) spring seat that goes between the main spring and the helper/tender spring. Thye soemtikmes slip out or get damaged. Unlikely to be the springs themsleves, my suggestion is to pop into East Coast and they can quickly tell you what is needed.

I have not noticed any change in torque converter lockup since I upgraded the cooler. It was always slow.

When the guy who did the blue slip, registered our Stagea he looked up the import approval on the DOTARS web site. Those and the compliance plate on the Stagea were all he needed.

If installed and timed properly, the Poncams run just fine without a tune. The map changes on the 3 X RB25's that we have done have been pretty minimal really.

Maybe a little too much negative camber, shouldn't affect the toe at all. We are guessing, I would get the alignment checked, stick up the numbers and some of us "experts" will be ablet to help.

Hi Brad, I ordered it that way from Innovative, so I have no basis of comparison.

I don't drive Miss Daisy either, but traffic and freeways beat me every time. The reality is, tyres wear on the inside (only) from excessive negative camber or excessive toe out. That's it, there isn't any other reason.

Not necessarily for Chris, I have already PM'd him, but for others. I never run an engine in for 2,000 k's. A solid 500 ks' and it's done, that's it, get up it. let 'er rip. It is as run in as it is going to get. I use 100% mineral oil, change the oil filter after 20 minutes of running. I then do the 500k's in one hit, drive to Bathurst and back, one morning, up and down the mountains, lots of differing loads, no constant speed running. Change the oil (to synthetic) and the filter again. Stick it on the dyno in the afternoon and give it the final tune. Driving it around in trafiic, pusssy footing around for ~2 months achieves nothing but frustration for you. Get it done in a day and get on with your life.

Ummmmmm.................thinking....................Canter, that's a Mitsubishi, so it would be a Trust turbo then. :wassup:

Hi Bass, what design did you end up going with?

My 20 cents worth...................... In order for the 1.5 degrees negative camber not to excessively wear tyres on the inside, you have to make use of it. If you do a lot of freeway driving or live in traffic then it is not using the negative camber. Similarly if you don't drive it hard through corners at every opportunity. Personally I would never have 1.5 degrees negative camber on my driving to work car, it has 0.5 degree and I add 2 degrees for track work while it is jacked up to change the tyres.

You can use them to make the stabiliser bar rate higher, not lower. And they only offer a small adjustment above standard, certainly nowhere near the rate necessary.

Our dyno guy won't let me do it either, he ran the dyno and I did the tuning. I think he was worried I might ram the Stagea though his precious dyno room soundproof wall. :wassup: Ask around, you might find a tame dyno operator:cheers:

Some more to think about............ The 2 X turbines/shaft/compressor of my 2530's weigh more than 3 times as much as the 1 X titanium turbine/shaft/ compressor of my T66. Plus the ceramic ball bearings used in the T66 have ~30% less running friction than the plain ball bearings used in the 2530's. I'm too tired ot work it out..................

Welcome to the world of compressor surge:cheers:

I programmed the DFA on the Stagea in about 20 minutes on the 4wd dyno, cost about $150. Well worth it and not as risky as doing it on the road. I also did a little bit of IEBC trimming at the same time as the Stagea ECU was quite difficult to keep in check.

My 20 cents worth........ They will bolt straight in, Jap mechaincs charge like brain surgeons so they have to be easy to fit. You will get your ass kicked on the track by other GTR's with more sensible spring rates and better dampening. And you won't be doing much cruising, more like ass bruising. Do yourself a favour and check out a set of Bilsteins and Whiteline coils for less cost. In fact spend similar money and get a pair of stabiliser bars and adjustable camber and caster bushes and you will be the one enjoying the ride and kicking some ass.

They won't fit a Stagea (non 260RS), they have forks at the bottom of the rear shocks, Stagea rear shocks have eyes at the bottom. They are GTR shocks I would say.

Suggestion follow; 1. Absolutely, my Stagea has the standard AFM, together the IEBC and DFA picked up 30% power increase and a 10% fuel economy improvement with out ANY mechanical modifications. 2. The standard lambda sensor is slow and narrow, to do a decent job on tuning A/F ratios you really need a fast and wide lambda sensor and a suitable meter to read it. I use an LM1 from Innovate Motorsport as well as the Motec and Autronic A/F ratio meters on the dyno. 3. As I increased the boost the already rich A/F ratios just got richer, plus the standard ECU went rich and retard because of the increasae airflow. Hope that was of some help:cheers:

Hi Andrew, interesting analogy, but a shoe box has a CoG that is the same as its geometric centre. This not the case with a car, it has different mass locations along it axis. It would be technically more correct to say that is balanced if the roll couple is the same front and rear ie; the roll centre and CoG at the front is the same distance apart as the the roll centre and CoG at the rear.