Sydneykid

The 4 spots are OK, the sliding single piston callipers are not as good.

I always break plastic clips, so I try never to have to remove them.

Hi Rom, I used the ECU power source as that way the IEBC and DFA only have power when the ECU has power. If you wire it to the Aux (or permanent power) it will have power when the ECU doesn't. I didn't think that was a good idea.

If by "yours" you mean "drive", Phil Coles drives the Production R32GTR for the race team, and Dave Loftus drives the team Improved Production R32GTR. That is the Production R32GTR N1, there is also an Improved Production R32GTR painted very similarly (same sponsor and car owner). So yes, that is a VN Commondoor, behind where it belongs. Pop out to a round of the NSW State Championships and say hello.

A bit of clarification. I personally have an R32GTST that I race myself (not very often as the race team is very busy at the moment), the Improved Production R32GTR is driven by Dave Loftus and the Production R32GTR is driven by Phil Coles. Yes the GTR is set up quite differently to the GTST, the extra weight over the front wheels and the 4wd make a big difference. Different springs rates, different stabiliser bar rates, can't get as much caster on the GTR so the camber is different, we have a control tyre (Yokohama A032R) so the tyres are at least the same. Thanks foir your supoort and I will pass on to Dave and Phil your wishes to "keep beating the Commondoors"

Gosh Roy, I hope you have something really good coming, because this is a good all round shock and spring package.

These are a very strong rod, an RB30DETT with a set of these did 9's:cheers:

Yep, mine were the same, I just modified the brackets, the pillar itself is quite deep.

R32GTST Type M headlights with GTR grill, clipped straight in....

I removed the standard tweeter grills on the pillars, inserted the new tweeters and replaced the grills. Didn't have to remove the A pillar cover,

Sorry I can't tell you the weight of the GTR, competitive advantage......you understand... The R32GTST runs an R33 GTST RB25DET gearbox. It weighs 1195 kgs currently, but is getting a new chrome molly cage, so that will go up 30 or so kgs. Honestly I have no idea, we don't service the PPG or Modena gearboxes in house. They go back to them for their scheduled servicing. We haven't broken one, so I haven't had to pull it down at a race meeting to find out/fix it. We did break a shifter on the RX7 Modena at Philip Island and Rowan turned up with a replacement in a couple of hours. That's what I call service!

Hi Ned, my first suggestion would be to have a read of the Jaycar IEBC and DFA thread in the Stagea section. The difference between the IEBC concept and the usual EBC, is that EBC's close the solenoid to decrease boost. This decreases the bypassed pressure and lets more airflow to the wastegate actuator. Whereas the IEBC opens the solenoid to decrease boost. This increases the airflow to the wastegate actuator. The programmig logic in an EBC would therefore say; decrease boost = close solenoid The programmig logic in an IEBC would therefore say; decrease boost = open solenoid I don't think you could change the programming in an EBC so redically as to reverse its logic ompletely. A solution, I have seen a Norgren valve inserted into the feed line to the solenoid such that the solenoid gets zero boost until a preset pressure. This is similar in concept to how the Autospeed 2 valve boost controller works. Consequently, even though the EBC might allow the solenoid to be open (prematurely), the valve stops any airflow and the wastegate stays closed. Let me know if you need a more detailed explanation:cheers:

Sorry, but I don't know what the ride height is so I can't say whether or not it is possible. But looking at the suspesnion geometry, I would say no chance.

There is 1 X PPG 5 Speed dog box in the 2wd with 4.3 diff ratio. The clutch is an OS Giken twin plate. It runs on 245/45/17 Yokohama A032R's. This box is farely new, it has only done 2.5 hours, that's a bit over 6,000 gear changes. The ratios are 2.621 / 1.637 / 1.240 / 1.000 / 0.839. There is 1 X PPG 5 Speed dog box in the 4wd with 4.1 diff ratios. The clutch is an OS Giken triple plate. The ATTESSA has extra clutches as well as electronic torque split and launch. It also runs on 245/45/17 Yokohama A032R's. We have used A048R's on it for testing as well. This one has done nearly a full year of racing, that's 160 starts, 10 hours of racing and 25,000 or so gearchanges. It was serviced last year, just the usual bearings, dog engagement and seals replaced. Same as we do with the Hollingers in the V8Supercars. Sorry but I can't tell you the ratios in this box, but they are different to the 2wd above. We also have a PPG 5 Speed dog box in the RX7, it has a Tilton 7" triple plate and a 5.3 diff ratio. We alternate between the PPG and the Modena as the gearing suites different circuits. For example we use the PPG at Wakefield Park, and Sandown and the Modena at Philip Island. The ratios are 2.527 / 1.805 / 1.381 / 1.155 / 1.000 Hope that helps:cheers:

The slot in a rotor is there to scrape off the super heated gas that comes out of the pad material and sits between the pad and the rotor, remove any loose pieces of material that might get in the way of the pad contacting the rotor and clean any small bits of materiall off the pad surface itself. So it would be better if the slots worked the material and hot gases to the outside of the rotor, rather than to the inside where the hat would get in the way of it clearing the rotor.

Oh yes, just as I figured, far too much camber on the rears as well (should be around 0.5 degree negative). The standard camber adjusters won't do that much correction, so a Whiteline rear camber kit would be my suggestion. The insides aren't wearing because there was too much toe in, they fixed it though. So it will start wearing now. Yep, sounds likes it far too low.

Hi Chris, if I remember rightly Theo uses a PPG dog box in his GTR for drag racing, mid 9's on radials. We use PPG dog boxes in the ciruit race cars, no problems after 2 years. Usual dog maintenance only. We are at 420+rwkw (around 650 bhp) from a 3.1 litre RB30/26. So it has LOTS of torque, way over 700 ft lbs at the flywheel.

If by "track" you mean circuit racing, then it's not legal there either.

Very creative thinking, what were you drinking? In R&R protection, the rich is ~10% and the retard ~5 degrees. For any decent anti lag you would need ~30% rich and ~25 degrees retard. That way you would have sufficient unburnt fuel and the exhaust valve would be open when the plug fires. Launch Control and Anti Lag are 2 different things. Launch control is for limiting the wheelspin.

The satandard GTR BOV's are pretty hard to beat.

R32/33/34 Skylines are double wishbones, they don't have struts. My suggestion is to pop over to the Silvias forum, they should be able to help:cheers:

My suggestions; Front camber is way too much, 1 degree negative would be my suggestion. You need a Whitleine camber kit to fix that. Toe out 3.6 mm is too much, try zero. Caster is OK Absolutely need rears as well. If it has no camber adjusters on the front then that amount of camber usually indicates that it is far too low. What are the centre of wheel to guard verticle measurements? Might as well post up the rear measurements, chances are they could be a problem as well. PS; Bislteins are around $900 for the set and Whiteline coils are around $300 for the set. You could install them yourself, or installation would be around $250, plus a wheel alignment.

It was in good condition, I should have got you to send the plastic R34GTT ducting with it though. Modifying the Stagea ducting was tricky and made my brain hurt trying to come up with something simple and yet effective. Quite a few people have asked me to do a temperature drop test across the core. So tonight I will set up the temperature probes on the outside of the end tanks. The absolute temperatures won't mean much, but the temperature drop should be somewhat meaningful.

That's an RB30 block with the standard cradle......