Sydneykid

Before we started to use RB30's a lot of people told me that RB26's were superior and that we should use them. So I did a lot of testing amd measuring. I have measured many RB30 and RB26 blocks, I have yet to see any evidence of the standard RB26 block being any stronger. The bore to water jacket metal content is exactly the same, the main bearing cradle is basically the same, the main bearing bolts are exactly the same diameter and thread pitch. As for cranks ditto, I have checked the hardness on the cranks (30HRC), counterweights (28HRC) and their bearing surfaces (55HRC) and I have no evidence that the RB30 crank is made of any different material to the RB26 crank or is hardened to any superior level. I fact I would argue that the RB30 stroke / rod length ratio (1.79) is superior to the RB26 (1.65) and therefore there is less loadings on the crank and block than an RB26 producing the same horsepower. So until I see some real evidence of RB26 blocks and cranks being superior, I will continue to use RB30 blocks and cranks.

The 40mm PWR is twin core and polish is cheap.

We are up tp 420+rwkw (625bhp) with the standard throttle bodies, no noticeable restriction. On the flow bench or the chassis dyno. That's for circuit racing, plus there are plenty of cars running 9's with the standard throttle bodies.

We run a PWR 40mm with a single Davies Craig 16" fan, it handles 420+rwkw on the circuit. We do have a big, ducted oil cooler as well.

Stagea steering is lighter than a GTST because it has way less caster. Lighter than a GTR because of the narrower tyre width and less wheel offset.

Stagea 4wd (like GTR's) doesn't like different diameter tyres (width is irrelevant) front and rear.

My suggestion follow; 1. No 2. 25 rwkw is not unusual 3. fuel pump, ~225 rwkw, clutch when it starts to slip usually ~200 rwkw 4. Lower octane fuel? Nope, just run lower boost. 5. Yes, the PFC boost control kit would go well with the PFC 6. I have seen 215 rwkw from a car with an R34 GT intercooler 7. Not if your tuner has done a good job 8. Not if your tuner has done a good job 9. It does pay to check when you do upgrades, 10 minutes on the dyno and ~$50 may save you from problems. Hope that helps:cheers:

For the 60 rwkw increase (as in 2rismo's case) how long does a 10lb bottle last? Number of passes or engine time, whatever? Around here the going rate for 10lb bottle refill is $55 inc GST, what's it cost over there?

I don't think you can "Unichip" the R34 generation of ECU's. The SAFC will adjust the A/F ratios OK, but there are compromises with A/F ratios and optimising the ignition timing, as previously discussed. The daughter board sounds like the go, but do you know anyone near you that can tune it? What tuning software does it use? What parameters and maps have they opened up with the daughter board? Does it work Ok for auto's? Stagea 4wd?

YES, 2530 + GTR fuel pump + Nismo bolt on fuel pressure regulator (Nengun $150) = OK. BUT (there is always a but), check it carefully on the dyno, adjust the fuel pressure to keep the A/F ratios OK and listen for any knock. Adjust the boost and the base ignition timing (with the CAS) to achieve the best COMPROMISE. DON'T bolt it on and go for a thrash. Please post up the results, to prove it works.

Hi Roy, my 20 cents worth... Larger oil filter, not worth the effort. Larger oil cooler, always worth the effort. Make sure you have it ducted though, it makes a HUGE difference to the airflow through the core. Without ducting, the airlfow takes the easier option and goes around the core. If it is ducted, having the intercooler pipe work in front of it makes no difference. As long as it isn't right up close to the core of course.

Yes:cheers:

That's what we do:cheers:

My advice would be to sell the adjustable camshaft pulley, you won't need it. The Tomei 256 and 260 Poncams we have installed on RB25's were perfect without changing the exhaust camshaft timing. They are designed to work with the VVT, so loosing it by adding an adjustable inlet camshaft pulley would be a backward step.

Personally I'd stick the turbo on, check the A/F ratios and knock on the dyno. Then juggle the boost and ignition timing for the best compromise, don't run it close to the limit. Not perfect, but easily doable.

1.5 neg on the back and 3.5 neg on the front, it varies from track to track.

Hi Marc2, plenty written on this, maybe do a search for more details. My 20 cents worth follows; There are 4 important things to consider when choosing an intercooler; 1. Cooling the inlet airflow (this effects the temperaturee of the inlet air) 2. The effect of the intercooler on the radiator (this effects the water temp of the engine) 3. The efficiency in passing inlet airflow through the intercooler (this is a measure of how much pressure loss there is across the core) 4. It's internal volume (this effects the throttle response of the engine) No one intercooler is superior in all 4 areas, they all are compromises. An example, a 600 X 300 X 100 bar and plate is good in #1 and #3 but bad in #2 and very bad in #4. The standard Stagea intercooler is good in #4 and #2, not so good in #1 and very bad in #3. I have chosen a standard R34GTT intercooler, to keep #2 and #4 at good, improve #3 a lot and improve #1 a little bit. That set of compromises suites my Stagea usage. On the race car we use a 600 X 300 X 100 tube and fin. It is good in #1 and #2, OK in #4 and we have a big enough turbo not to be concerned about #3. My personal favourite all rounder is the standard R33/34 GTR intercooler. Up to 300 rwkw they are very hard to beat. Hope that was of some help:cheers:

No problems, stay under 300 rwkw, big transmission cooler, use good oil and a valve body upgrade. If there is still a bit too much slip first to second, you can upgrade the drive belt to a kevlar one. Usually the 3rd gear clutch pack is OK at that power level, but it can be upgraded as well with 2 extra plates. For about the price of a good multiplate clutch (in a manual) you can make a very strong auto.

We get C spanners from our local CBC bearing shop. Check and see, C spanners fit a wide range, so you may get away with 2 the same size:cheers:

HICAS, too high rear spring rate, poor suspension geometry, too stiff/poorly valved rear shocks, worn sub frame bushes, too high tyre pressure......etc

More than a standard internals RB20DET can put out:cheers:

My first guess would be the standard wiring harness plug is not inserted into the PFC perfectly. I have seen this a number of times, it's the first place I would check.

Standard GTR pair, I haven't found anything better:cheers: