Sydneykid

Yep, anywhere in the oil supply system that is under pressure:cheers:

Over this side of the ditch, that includes passengers.

The spring rates are rediculously high, even for a race car. Do a search, this has been discussed a couple of times.

Some coil overs need 2 X C spanners as they have a lock ring. Others have grub screw locks and only require 1 X C spanner. The price at $50 for 1 is about right.

Hmmmm that's weird, unplugging the Commander shouldn't make any difference. What voltage does it show at idle?"cheers:

My solution has been to sell the GTR PODs and buy 2 X GTST pods.

I prefer Pipercross filters. K&N are single density, so their performance drops off very quickly in a dirty environment. A side effect of being single density is that they don't release the dirt as easily when cleaning.

Get them to do a leak down test, that will give a much better indication of engine condition, a compression test has too many variables.

We run 9 to 1 in lots of RB engines, but they are built to have that compression ratio via piston slection, block deck height and combustion chamber volume. So the real question is, how do you intend to increase the compression ratio?

I have been using oiled filters for many years, never had a problem. The most common problem is the filter being over oiled, then the AFM can be easily cleaned with brake cleaner. PS; I was very disappionted in the Zoom test as they didn't have anywhere near all of the filters available. Plus K&N is an advertiser in their group of magazines, so I always suspect there is potential for favouratism. Especially when it is not backed up by the test results.

On a GTR I prefer to still mount the filter as low as possible, so I use the space on the front sub frame next to where the intercooler pipe comes out. That way its a short run from the block to the filter and then to the oil cooler behind the RHS front vent.

The nut holds the shock shaft to the strut top, so it's important. Pop up to East Coast Suspension at Kirrawee, they should have a selection of nuts they can fit.

Welcome Jay, most of the power up discussion taks place in the "Dragin the Wagon" or "Jaycar IEBC & DFA" threads. So rather than start a new one, hop onto those. The "Stagea Suspension" thread is also well worth a read.

That's laden weight, with passengers isn't it? Mine has had no weight reduction and it weighed 1,658 kgs (almost zero fuel) for Compliance. The Bill of Lading says 1,650 kgs when it was loaded onto the car carrier in Japan. The Nissan data sheet for a 1997 model says 1,640 kgs to 1,695 kgs depending on options. It weighed 1,682 kgs with almost a full tank of fuel on my corner weight scales.

Hmmmmmm, what ECU are you using? Personally I would be looking at advancing the ignition timing some, as that is the first place I go for better response. Maybe some tuning of the exhaust camshaft timing woiuld help as well. Premature wastegate opening would be my next port of call. Try setting the boost threshold at 2 bar, and testing the boost build then. That will tell you if the boost bypass isn't large enough through the EBC. If that turns out to be the case I would try a Norgren pressure limiting valve before the EBC. Or upgrade to a Jaycar IEBC, they ensure absolutely no premature wastegate opening because the solenoid is in series to the wastegate actuator. The HKS EBC (like most others) has its solenoid parrallel to the wastegate actuator. Hope that is of some help:cheers:

Hi guys, on GTST's and GTT's I mount the oil filter on the RHS (lower) subframe, in the space that the front drive shaft goes through on the GTR's, GTS4's and Stageas. This means the oil filter is low and rear mounted for better centre of gravity and improved front/rear weight distribution. I mount the oil pressure and oil temperature sensors in the remote filter mount. By the time you add up the weight of the braided hoses, the sensors, the filter adaptor, the filter and the oil, it is worth doing.

Any ball bearing turbo that supplies 60 lbs of air per minute at around 1.5 bar (or less) would be my choice. I chose a Turbonetics T66 with dual ceramic ball bearings and a titanium compressor.

I have yet to find an RB water pump or oil pump that doesn't fit all RB's (RB20/25/26/30). In my opinion N1 pumps are a waste of money, they have no more flow than a standard pump. Just a stronger spring in the pressure relief valve. Save yourself ~$300 and buy a $2 spring upgrade for your standard pump, same result.

Hi Ben, using a stock GTR head with Poncams would be fine, it just waists money as you have to dissassemble it again to fit the good top end. I believe the cost of duplicated labour plus parts like gaskets and seals, would outway the cost of doing it right the first time. Do the numbers and I am sure you will come to the same conclusion. GTSS's are a bit small, I even disgarded the idea of using the larger 2530's on my own RB31. I reckon GTRS's would be the go, if you want twins. Mine has a big single as I wanted the lower weight, better weight distribution and less complexity.

Hi Roy, the Whiteline product codes are; B= Stabiliser bar N = Nissan F = Front ## = Part Number X = Heavy duty (one size up from "normal" duty) XX = Extra heavy duty (2 sizes up from "normal" duty) Z = Adjustable The front 27mm adjustable is BNF28XZ (the X increases the size from 24 mm to 27mm) The rear 24mm adjustabe is BNR26XZ (the X increases the size from 22 mm to 24mm) If you are ordering them direct from Whiteline, try asking for 1 extra hole per blade, that will give you 2 more settings per bar to play with. Hope that helps:cheers: PS; PI has lots of long high speed corners, we run harder springs there, higher bar settings and more bump valving on the shocks. Even then, a little more camber is sometimes needed.

We have never used 2835's on an RB30, far too big for our applications. The numbers say 9,000 rpm on an RB26 is equivalent in airflow to 7,500 on an RB31. So they should be fine. My own RB31 uses 272/280 Jun 10.8 mm lift cams for circuit racing, the 3.1 litres lets you run pretty bag cams that would kill a 2.5/2.6 litre.

If 265 rwkw is "big hp", then our previous experience with cats (eg; the R34GTT has a hi flow 3.25") has shown that properly tuned (not rich as) means no deterioration for 25,000k's so far. Obviously it only runs on premium unleaded (Optimax mostly), no octane boosters or Avgas. It still makes the same power and it's been a bit over 2 years. I see no reason why the Magic 4" would be any different. On poorly tuned (especially rich) cars I have seen deterioration in the cat performance after as litttle as 10,000k's of city driving. I have that found a long hard run (5 hours or more) seems to cleans up the cat, as it burns off some of the over rich contaminents. This doesn't work for Avgas (or other leaded fuels) of course, the lead doesn't burn off. PS; I will come back to this thread when the car with the Magic 4" has done a few more k's.

Took the Stagea down to Sandown for the Vic State Championship round last weekend. We had 2 people on board plus luggage and around 180 kgs of spare parts, including a forged RB31 bottom end on the way down and a stuffed RB25 bottom end on the way back. On the drive from Gundagai to Port Melbourne we managed the 494 k's on 58 litres, that's 11.7L/100k's. And we weren't hanging around either, we completed the whole 1,900K round trip in under 18.5 hours of driving time. The average for the weekend, including numerous short trips into the city etc (120 k's worth), was 12.6L/100K. Not a bad effort for over 2.1 tonnes of fast moving waggon.

Suggestions follow; 1. The RB26 is vastly superior, it has solid followers, better valve springs, cheaper and easier to get cams, no VVT, best inlet manifold design, multiple throttle butterflies, better water jacket design, better valves, higher oil flow return to the sump ........ I think you get the idea. 2. Compression ratio is 9 to 1. We use JE pistons and standard Nissan head gasket. Obviously the block is O'ringed and we use ARP head studs. 3. With good rods we are up to 950 bhp (that's using an annealed copper head gasket though). Hope that helps:cheers:

I have been quoted again, at least someone reads them. :headspin: A quick clarification, same car 3" hi flow cat, made 245 rwkw. Replace with gutted 3" compliance cat, made 252 rwkw. There is turbulance there because of the much larger step up and down in diameter through the gutted cat. You can see the heat differential with a laser heat gun. Replace cat with straight through 3" pipe, 262 rwkw. Fitted Magic 4" cat, 260 rwkw. No tuning changes (fuel or ignition timing ) were made, however the boost does move a little bit as the restriction changes. So I consider it a "real world" test. Test number 2, put 4" Magic cat on the SupaFlow bench and compared to the "compliance" 3" cat, it flows almost 3 times as much. Over the years we have tested a number of so called "hi flow" 3" cats and none of them gets anywhere near the 4" Magic cat. It is almost as good as a straight though 3" piece of pipe at very high exhaust flows. So if you don't mind being illegal and an enviro terrorist, a straight though piece of 3" pipe is much better than a gutted cat. Otherwise the 4" Magic cat is a good piece of gear and you can feel safe in the knowledge that your are running legally, making good power and not killing penguins in the antarctic. PS; we paid for the Magic cat, it wasn't a freebee and there aren't any kick backs. We were doing some testing, as there is ongoing talk of going to cat's for circuit racing (they do it in Germany already).